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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if this is a redundant post but I simply can't find any pictures or description of where the bevel gear oil drain is, and I couldn't find it when I was under the car. So a little help would be greatly appreciated from anyone who has experience with the P1 awd. Thanks.
 

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Sorry if this is a redundant post but I simply can't find any pictures or description of where the bevel gear oil drain is, and I couldn't find it when I was under the car. So a little help would be greatly appreciated from anyone who has experience with the P1 awd. Thanks.
Hope this helps sir!

"Bevel Gear: Also easy to change, though it requires the use of an oil pump. I put the car onto ramps to allow easier access. The bevel gear only has a fill plug. Remove it, insert the small hose on your oil pump (make sure it is clean) and start pumping. Once you are done, pump a few squirts of fresh oil through the pump and into the waste oil container (to clear out the old fluid in the hoses of your oil pump, and ensure only fresh fluid will be used to fill the Bevel gear). Then pump the new fluid into the bevel gear until it begins to leak out of the fill plug. Install the plug. Capacity is .8L. I used Volvo AWD Fluid (API GL-5 BOT part #1161648). Requires one aluminum crush washer (same size as engine oil drain plug). (Note: bevel gear can also be filled with a funnel with a 24 inch hose). Volvo also has a procedure to drill a hole for a drain plug into the bevel gear's casing, it is unecessary, and will likely do more harm than good by introducing metal shavings into the unit, just use an oil pump, its easy."

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?81428-Complete-Fluid-Change-How-To
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ya, but still can't find the bevel gear fill plug - where the heck is it??? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Interesting. Is that "plug" (#9) actually there, or does it have to be installed... I remember reading somewhere (maybe in the R forum) that you had to install the drain plug - something about the drain plug bolt being a different length than the OEM installed bolt and then having a crush washer to seal. Because if that's the case, then it seems to me that the bleeder is the fill port and the drain plug is the drain port.
 

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The drain hole needs to be drilled into the bevel gear from what I've read. I haven't done mine yet, but will take a look as I change my transmission cooler out right now.

Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk
 

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The drain hole needs to be drilled into the bevel gear from what I've read. I haven't done mine yet, but will take a look as I change my transmission cooler out right now.

Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk
Didn't get to it, ran out of light. :(

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now I realize why I couldn't find a drain plug - the only 'plug' available is the bleeder port which is basically unaccessible. Even if you drilled and installed the drain plug at the bottom of the bevel gear, you still wouldn't be able to install new fluid. Unless I'm missing something???
 

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The breather port is on top of the housing, otherwise all the fluid would just leak out. The plug is number 9 in the exploded view linked above. I was planning on changing mine out today, but it's too damned cold out right now. Hopefully this week will be better. I'll get some pics when I do the rest of my fluids.

Stole this pic from another thread on here. Might not be exact, but same general location. The wide flange bolt towards the left in the pic.

 

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Sweet - That's an outstanding photo, when I get mine back I am going to do the same service on it, so this a helpful thread. One question - You wrote API GL-5 fluid @ .8L - is there any particular reason we can't or shouldn't use any other API GL-5 fluid to do the job?

Only reason I am wondering is because I have some leftover stuff from the differential on my 3/4ton dodge that I liked how well it held up to the 802ftlbs that I had it putting to the wheels, so I was hoping I could use it here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks a bit different and much more accessible - is that the passenger side axle?
 

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Sweet - That's an outstanding photo, when I get mine back I am going to do the same service on it, so this a helpful thread. One question - You wrote API GL-5 fluid @ .8L - is there any particular reason we can't or shouldn't use any other API GL-5 fluid to do the job?

Only reason I am wondering is because I have some leftover stuff from the differential on my 3/4ton dodge that I liked how well it held up to the 802ftlbs that I had it putting to the wheels, so I was hoping I could use it here.
The only Volvo branded fluid I'm using is the AOC fluid. I only had time to swap out the rear diff fluid today, it got the same Mobile 1 75W-90 that the bevel gear/transfer case is getting hopefully this weekend.

That sounds like a fun truck.

Mercdude, yes passenger's side. The transfer case bolts to the transmission, and the right axle passes through it.
 

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The only Volvo branded fluid I'm using is the AOC fluid. I only had time to swap out the rear diff fluid today, it got the same Mobile 1 75W-90 that the bevel gear/transfer case is getting hopefully this weekend.

That sounds like a fun truck.

Mercdude, yes passenger's side. The transfer case bolts to the transmission, and the right axle passes through it.
It was a fun truck - but even unmodified it still produced enough heat in the differential to blue the differential cover, and when I pulled the plug for the first time it had about 5mm of metal shavings stuck to the magnet. That was before I put better quality fluid in it. After that, even at 802 at the wheels it barely produced any shavings. I'm a fan of 90w-120 - which will eat up a bit of gas mileage especially in the winter, but I know that fluid will handle any higher horsepower stuff I do to it.

Yes I was looking at this after the post piqued my interested and discovered the rear diff and the AOC are two different fluids. Good stuff as always guys.
 
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