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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How many miles before your rear strut mounts went out?
 

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Rear strut mounts? Never. Isn't it made of solid aluminum?




Maybe the rubber spring retention, but I've never heard of issues with it.
 

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There is a bushing and spring seat in there that you can replace (#4 and #5). I did when my TME springs and new struts went in, but I don't think there was anything wrong with the old ones.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I'm about to do a full suspension overhaul.. Looks like the rear subframe has to come off completely to swap out majority of the rear bushings...

Has anyone here done the rear suspension bushings at home with somewhat cheap home made or store bought tools?
 

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DrB, I'm actually in the middle of doing that right now (it's a FWD V70, which means all but two of the rear suspension bushings are the same as on the AWD/R models). I've been pressing out the bushings using a combination of a 20-ton hydraulic press from Harbor Freight, and a ball joint kit from Amazon. So far I've got all the bushings out of both spindles, and while the HF press is great, the weird contours of the spindles are such that I've been primarily using the ball joint kit (hard to get always get the proper clearance for the press arm).

Subframe DEFINITELY has to be dropped if you want to replace the upper control arm bushings; dropping the subframe will also make it much easier to remove the front toe control arm bushings. It's been pretty slow going for me on this project, but that's mainly because I've only been able to squeeze in an hour or two a couple nights a week after work. Right now, I'm trying to find a local machine shop that will make some delrin bushings for the three upper control arm attachment points, and the inner LCA bushing, as well (since there's no poly version available for FWD vehicles). My concern is that, with all other positions replaced with poly, OEM UCA bushings (even if freshly installed) won't hold up very well (and given that the front UCA bushings on both sides of my car were totally thrashed, I'm suspecting that these positions do seem a fair amount of stress).

Biggest surprise so far; while taking apart the passenger side, I found that the bushings/arms were under virtually NO preload, whereas the driver side was clearly under tension. I'm thinking that this (along with the thrashed bushings) is *hopefully* the source of my weird, passenger-side sidehop-type issue. Will see once we get it all buttoned up and back on the road.
 

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Subframe DEFINITELY has to be dropped if you want to replace the upper control arm bushings; dropping the subframe will also make it much easier to remove the front toe control arm bushings. It's been pretty slow going for me on this project, but that's mainly because I've only been able to squeeze in an hour or two a couple nights a week after work. Right now, I'm trying to find a local machine shop that will make some delrin bushings for the three upper control arm attachment points, and the inner LCA bushing, as well (since there's no poly version available for FWD vehicles). My concern is that, with all other positions replaced with poly, OEM UCA bushings (even if freshly installed) won't hold up very well (and given that the front UCA bushings on both sides of my car were totally thrashed, I'm suspecting that these positions do seem a fair amount of stress). .
Could always make your own poly bushings too!
 

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I was told to replace my rear strut mounts when I do my spring install. Tho if its not necessary that saves me a chunk of change
 

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I was told to replace my rear strut mounts when I do my spring install. Tho if its not necessary that saves me a chunk of change
Dont think it is necessary. Mine were in perfect shape at 65000 miles
 

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Could always make your own poly bushings too!
You mean filling the OEM bushings with some sort of window weld-ish compound, or cutting my own poly bushings out of whole cloth (or, poly, as it were)?
 

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Since only the front UCA bushing has gaps in it, I don't think the "fill" method would be very efficacious (since the rear and hub-side UCA bushings are solid/gap-less rubber). Making molds is certainly an idea, but I'd venture to guess that it would wind up costing more than having a shop machine some delrin bushings (and since I'd be totally new to molding bushings, I have a feeling that I'd end up spending way too much time--and, perhaps, money--in the prototyping/figuring things out stage). At this point, if I can't get a shop to make some delrin bushings, I'll just press in some new OEMs, and use the Powerflex poly insert on the front UCA bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Since only the front UCA bushing has gaps in it, I don't think the "fill" method would be very efficacious (since the rear and hub-side UCA bushings are solid/gap-less rubber). Making molds is certainly an idea, but I'd venture to guess that it would wind up costing more than having a shop machine some delrin bushings (and since I'd be totally new to molding bushings, I have a feeling that I'd end up spending way too much time--and, perhaps, money--in the prototyping/figuring things out stage). At this point, if I can't get a shop to make some delrin bushings, I'll just press in some new OEMs, and use the Powerflex poly insert on the front UCA bushing.
I'm thinking that filling the one large bushing that has gaps, could greatly reduce side hop. And there's also probably a way to fill in the subframe bushings in the rear too.

DrB, I'm actually in the middle of doing that right now (it's a FWD V70, which means all but two of the rear suspension bushings are the same as on the AWD/R models). I've been pressing out the bushings using a combination of a 20-ton hydraulic press from Harbor Freight, and a ball joint kit from Amazon. So far I've got all the bushings out of both spindles, and while the HF press is great, the weird contours of the spindles are such that I've been primarily using the ball joint kit (hard to get always get the proper clearance for the press arm).

Subframe DEFINITELY has to be dropped if you want to replace the upper control arm bushings; dropping the subframe will also make it much easier to remove the front toe control arm bushings. It's been pretty slow going for me on this project, but that's mainly because I've only been able to squeeze in an hour or two a couple nights a week after work. Right now, I'm trying to find a local machine shop that will make some delrin bushings for the three upper control arm attachment points, and the inner LCA bushing, as well (since there's no poly version available for FWD vehicles). My concern is that, with all other positions replaced with poly, OEM UCA bushings (even if freshly installed) won't hold up very well (and given that the front UCA bushings on both sides of my car were totally thrashed, I'm suspecting that these positions do seem a fair amount of stress).

Biggest surprise so far; while taking apart the passenger side, I found that the bushings/arms were under virtually NO preload, whereas the driver side was clearly under tension. I'm thinking that this (along with the thrashed bushings) is *hopefully* the source of my weird, passenger-side sidehop-type issue. Will see once we get it all buttoned up and back on the road.


Thanks for the help!
 

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I'm thinking that filling the one large bushing that has gaps, could greatly reduce side hop. And there's also probably a way to fill in the subframe bushings in the rear too.
Or you can use this one:
 
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