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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I blew out a wheel bearing on the passenger side of the 122 a while back and just now got around to fixing it. Turns out the whole outer bearing split in two. My problem now is that the inner part of the bearing is lodged on the taper of the spindle. Like zis:



So I tried to pull it off with a gear puller. Did not work. I tried to heat it and pull it off. Did not work. I even cut part of the seized piece off and it wouldn't budge.



It looks like it is welded on there which is not the case but maybe the pressure and heat from it separating at 50 mph had something to do with it.

Anyone experienced this before? Anyone know where I can get a replacement spindle? I think getting the piece off would require mutilating the spindle.
 

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I blew out a wheel bearing on the passenger side of the 122 a while back and just now got around to fixing it. Turns out the whole outer bearing split in two. My problem now is that the inner part of the bearing is lodged on the taper of the spindle. Like zis:



So I tried to pull it off with a gear puller. Did not work. I tried to heat it and pull it off. Did not work. I even cut part of the seized piece off and it wouldn't budge.



It looks like it is welded on there which is not the case but maybe the pressure and heat from it separating at 50 mph had something to do with it.

Anyone experienced this before? Anyone know where I can get a replacement spindle? I think getting the piece off would require mutilating the spindle.
Time for a replacement salvage spindle in good shape.

Look through the pages in this...

http://vcoa.org/images/docs/Rolling_Jan-Feb_10lo-res.pdf

...for folks with used Volvo parts and call them as some don't do the www.

You may wish to do other repairs/replacements/parts on both sides of the car to prevent future failures.

George Dill
 

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Just FYI, left and right are identical, and 1800 spindles are the same. By the way, what happened there is called galling, and it's a lot like welding.
 

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This is a GOOD reason to start paying attention as soon as they get noisy. They are usually noisy for quite a while before they get like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To be honest, I never heard a peep. No grinding, rubbing, or anything of the sort. Pretty sudden. I did find a spindle though so when it gets here I'll put it on. Hey, now I have a reason to put on my lowering springs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was able to source a good spindle. Got it all installed today and everything went pretty smoothly except now my camber is WAYYY off. Do these cars have adjustable control arms? Might be a stupid question. I'm taking it in for alignment in the morning either way.
 

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Camber is adjusted by inserting shims where the upper arms mount to the cross member. Caster is adjusted by shimming the front and rear mounting bolts unevenly.
 

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Take it to a good shop that understands old school a-arm alignment. If it's a young tech it's likely he's never even adjusted caster before, and camber rarely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How do I correct negative camber?

I had to replace a spindle on the passenger side of the 122 and the camber is WAYYY to far in at the top. I took it and had it aligned today and the guy was only able to take the shims out and get it to about -3 degrees. The driver's side lined up pretty evenly but there's enough negative camber on the passenger side to be able to see it.

I guess it's possible that the replacement spindle was bent. Is there any way to correct the camber by adjusting the lower control arm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I prematurely started a new thread on this, lol. The problem is the camber is negative and the upper A-arm has no shims in it at all. Before I replaced the spindle, my camber on both wheels was about 1-2 degrees positive, which could have easily been fixed with shims. Now it's negative, leading me to believe the replacement spindle is bent, warped, or not correct for a 122.
 

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I had to replace a spindle on the passenger side of the 122 and the camber is WAYYY to far in at the top. I took it and had it aligned today and the guy was only able to take the shims out and get it to about -3 degrees. The driver's side lined up pretty evenly but there's enough negative camber on the passenger side to be able to see it.

I guess it's possible that the replacement spindle was bent. Is there any way to correct the camber by adjusting the lower control arm?
Much easier and better to source/install two undamaged spindles.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah it's just hard to find one that's confirmed unbent. I'm gonna contact the guy I bought it from and see if he can help me out. In the meantime, I need to pull the B18 anyway.

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You also might want to check the upper shaft between the A-frame bushings and the spindle. It is probably as easy to bend as the spindle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, I was referring to the spindle as the whole part, not the actual spindle, lol. Sorry for the confusion. I suspect the part that's bent would be the longer, upper part of the spindle that attaches to the upper ball joint.

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There are some folks here that have modified ("improved ?? ") their Amazons. They should have lots of front suspension components. May be there can be some usefulness out of their experimentations, and may be they could sell you healthy spindles or other components cheaply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think I'm just going to grind off the old wheel bearing and see what happens. Can't hurt to give it a whirl.
 

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Actually it can, if it's not a smooth, good fitting aligned surface, you'll junk the new bearing in a matter of weeks. I'd try to get your money back and/or an exchange from whoever sold it to you.
 
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