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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning an oil change soon on a 2001 2.4T. Going with Mobil 1 5w30. The car has had regular oil changes but always conventional oil. Currently has ~220K km with no leaks. I picked up a Fram filter along with the oil today but I am thinking, as I need to hit the parts dept. at the dealer anyhow I should buy an OEM filter. Any thoughts? What's best?
 

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Mahle is OEM for P2s. Can get them off IPD/others for decent cost. Definitely recommend Mahle or a dealer boxed one (you'll pay more for the latter of course). Only filters I put in my P2s.
 

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Another note for mahle filter. Remember to change the O ring on the cartridge housing and lube it with a splash of oil. Drain plug needs a crush washer every time too.
 

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I always use MAHLE, for both fuel and oil. If you haven't done fuel filter recently and don't know when it was done, that's a good thing to do as well. Some say MAHLE, some say XENGST. Same thing I believe. Also VIN specific on 2 different shapes, so if you pick one up call the dealer first.

Also don't get the "high mileage" etc oils, they mess up the seals (what I've read is they basically swell them up, and when going back to normal full synth oil they degrade to smaller then they were before). Just normal full synthetic stuff.

I've also heard terrible things about the FRAM filters. Watch a video with them taking apart an FRAM, a K&N, etc... you'll see the difference on the inside

If you look up flow tests for this engine, God damn I'm sure I have that thread bookmarked somewhere. I think it's on matthewsvolvo, maybe this site. But these cars LOVE the MAHLE filters. Don't get anything else for your oil. Those FRAM's will tear apart and leave paper everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did the fuel filter in 2015, about 19K kms ago so I imagine it's not pressing?

The Fram is being returned today. Turns out the local dealer has the OEM filters on sale if purchased online for $12CAD (not much more than the Fram cost) so I'll be picking one up today along with a new washer and o-ring.

Thanks all for the great info and advice!
 

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Did the fuel filter in 2015, about 19K kms ago so I imagine it's not pressing?

The Fram is being returned today. Turns out the local dealer has the OEM filters on sale if purchased online for $12CAD (not much more than the Fram cost) so I'll be picking one up today along with a new washer and o-ring.

Thanks all for the great info and advice!
Yes you are fine. The fuel filters are minimum 80k miles? max like 120k. (depends what fuel ya run!! I hit 93 on low, and 89 on high when refilling... I figure it balances to the 91 suggested)

Good on ya, good luck brotha.
 

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Yeah
Just say NO to the Scam,,,I mean Fram Oil filters... Way overrated.
I made a Youtube Video about a Fram filter that I removed from a new to me purchase s70,, Darn thing had a hole blown right through it at one of the pleats!
I end up using Mann.
Stay curious my friends
 

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Mann or Mahle for me NOTHING else ever. Agreed, stay away from high mileage anything.


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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Alright well this thread had me thinking that everyone (yes even you old gurus) should probably read the oil shootout thread so here's a few bookmarks I found for y'all, classics that should be fundamental reading for these cars tbh

For reference, here is another thread that I had bookmarked that has info on oil flow for this engine. It's on the XC forums, I even lol'd cause JRL is in it as well. Has my fave dude Astro in it who helped with my tranny cooler build ... copied about 90% of the build , you should listen to both of them, Astro is the best oldposter you can find on these cars.

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?18553-Recommended-oil-type/page3

And HERE is the main thread I was talking about, the reason I won't even consider Mann... the oil filter shootout (on v70r forum). MAHLE beats MANN, believe it...

http://v70r.com/forums/topic/17139-oil-filter-shootout/?page=2


for those too lazy, here are the two main points:


. 1. high mileage oils and viscocity -

"The main feature of high mileage oils is the addition of a seal conditioner additive. This is essentially oil with a stop leak additive already added. So what do these additive do? They make seals swell potentially stopping or preventing oil from leaking past bearing seals. If you have an oil leak, this type of oil may potentially stop it, as would replacing the worn seal. If you don't have a leak, why use it? Well, I suppose you might prevent a leak that was going to occur at x-miles in the future, but you have no idea if that will or won't happen. What will happen though, is that all your seals will swell, wear to the new, swollen condition and will then start to leak if you ever switch back to an oil that doesn't contain the seal conditioner. In other words, instead of taking time to fix a worn seal the right way, you apply a quick fix and potentially set up a myriad of problems for the future. There are some circumstances under which you might want to try the high-mileage oil, but in general, fixing the worn seal and sticking with a quality syn/semi-syn oil with appropriate changes is the way to go."

-sjonnie, xc70 forum



. 2. filter design and oil shootout -

"The ridges on the Volvo/Mahle core prevent the filter from fully collapsing even under pressure and help keep the pleats open under pressure, this is absolutly critical to filter performance and the design is rather functional and elegant. None of the other filters feature this design.

Filter surface area ended up as follows:

Fram CH8712 - 242.0 sq in

Mann HU819X - 232.0 sq in

Mahle OX149D - 219.9 sq in

Volvo 1275810 - 232.5 sq in

Wix 57021 - 253 sq in (also sold as NAPA)

K&N HP-7002 - 228.4 sq in

AC Delco 2250G - 229.3 sq in

Bosch 72206 - 229.3 sq in

STP/Purolator - 189 sq in

The highest surface area was provided by the WIX filter, followed by the Mann filters and then the Mahle/Volvo filters

Overall here are the conclusions:

Best filter to use:

Volvo/Mahle. The filter surface area might not be as high as the Mann filter, but the crush resistance design and the better functioning seal make this the best filter to use.

2nd place: WIX / NAPA With the highest surface area, and excellent filter media this filter is only missing a core designed to keep the pleats open under pressure. The seal works well despite it being designed differently from the Volvo OEM filter.

3rd place: AC Delco / BOSCH These filters have good filter media, a sturdy core design and good surface area. The seal arrangement is similar to the WIX but the corrugation on the filter media is very basic and shallow, it is less likely to perform as well under pressure.

4th place: Mann/K&N/FRAM The production variations on these filters is a problem. Pleats were uneven and when cutting the filter element apart we noticed that the filter media was not attached well to the end caps in some places, also, despite the fact that Mann made all three filters the production variation between them was quite marked which is not a positive thing. The seal mechanisim is really the worst in the bunch consisting of a fuzzy fabric ring on the top and bottom of the end cap."

-AlexD, v70r forum




^has me wondering, what is the best filter for an inline mounted transmission filter? I see most people run magnafine unmounted filters...
(I'm running a K&N right now on a derahle mount)
but the whole thing with pleats and not collapsing under pressure has me curious. JRL have any input on that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I hit 93 on low, and 89 on high when refilling... I figure it balances to the 91 suggested
I don't think it works that way :D (unless you've always got a close to proportional mix in the tank).

BTW, thanks for the Coles Notes version of the Oil/Filter threads - much appreciated.
 

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Most filters/filter housings are designed with a bypass. In the event that it collapses or becomes restricted oil will continue to flow. The bypass will open well before any filter will collapse, and with regular service it should never reach that point... Although I was running 7k mi on 5w40 one winter with a Valvoline filter and I could hear the bypass open at cold starts.

The magnifine filter also has a bypass. I cracked one open with pics somewhere in my thread.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?p=2842001#/topics/207560?postid=2842001
 

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Good info here, I am a big fan of Mahle, and Mann, also the NAPPA / Wix which I have also seen MANN in the NAPA box, I used to keep NAPA 1010 cartridges around for the 912 until I swapped it to a full flow using a Canton racing 8 micron cartridge filter, the 1010 also fits many old school cartridge filters, Ferguson tractor (early 50's) the INTL Scout until I changed it to a spin on, but many of the 1010 filters in the NAPA box were MANN filters.

Regards
 

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I don't think it works that way :D (unless you've always got a close to proportional mix in the tank).

BTW, thanks for the Coles Notes version of the Oil/Filter threads - much appreciated.
Maybe not. But, manual says 91 or higher. So, at 93 on low fillups and 89 above half, I figure it's always 91 or above. I can't say that I know much about how that affects the knock, but 93 is the highest it'd get pure... so it can't be harming much. I also only use top tier gas when I can, I figure that helps a lot with carbon buildup on the throttle body, intake, etc.
 
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