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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just trying to plan for a winter and spring parts get together and wondering what I could expect out of a particular setup.

2.5 LPT engine
-RSI rods
-new OEM pistons
-ARP hardware
-Enem Y21 cams
-head port and polish
-green fuel injectors
-RICA Stage 3 tune
-Snow Performance WMI (untuned for just for added safety precautions)
-TD05 20G @18psi

What kind of drivability and numbers would a setup like that put out?

This is the route I'm looking to go down, I suppose somethings can be switched out for others if need be and/or personal opinions on what would be best for a complete setup for what I'm looking for. What I'm looking for is a ~325-340 whp reliable car that can stretch out on the freeway that has a really strong mid range pull that flatens out up top put still holds power also. So in all actuality I'm looking to make ~55-70 more whp and have a monster mid RPM pulling car.

Input, remarks, questions, ideas, options/opinions...all welcome. Only thing not welcome is the talk of selling the car and get an R or that I'll be wasting time on a LPT.
 

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hahn 20g should do the trick or a 3071 would work nicely as well. May also want to look into a trans cooler. Have you spoken to your RICA rep to see if a tune for that setup is doable(rather, are they willing to do it)?
 

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Rather than just ragging a LPT block build, I wonder if some lower compression pistons to deal with the added boost pressure would be a smart move. You mention reliability & I wonder what kind of stress 18 lbs will do to LPT pistons, even if brand new.
 

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Here's the start of the LPT bashing, lol. I kid I kid...

But yeah man, lots of guys have this type of setup on the older GLT cars, VS is full of dyno graphs that show 330WHP cars with essentially this setup but thats FWD numbers, not AWDHP numbers. Pretty much depends on how you want it tuned, the 20G can still spool like crazy at rather low rpms so good boost control is essential, means you need to work very closely with your tuner. And that's where I see your biggest challenge, getting RICA on board for such an aggressive setup while you are in a totally different country. When I approached them about tuning for the 16T they were reluctant do so without dynoing the car in shop. They are going to need lots of data from you to make this tune, hopefully they have a rough basemap they can allow you to load and get the car running, then you are going to have to do extensive datalogging and communicate back and forth to tweak the tune.

What has RICA said about all this??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I haven't yet spoken to Rica about this yet, I wanted to get a base idea or some concerns from ya'll first before I go head first into this and ruin everything. I haven't talked to Lucky yet either and could possibly have ARD attempt to work with me on this type of setup. I know the FWD 850/s70's can squeeze 320-330 hp out of them and that again is also manual not auto and fwd not awd. So I guess I could be a tad bit negotional as far as real world numbers but would in all reality woud prefer to meet my mark/goal I'm aiming for.

Pistons I suppose I could lower the CR but then I basically have a 2.4 with thin cylinder walls. I'd like to utilize the higher CR, 9.0:1 isn't all that high it's fairly moderate.
 

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darton sleeves are always an option if you want to have a piece of mind with those cyl walls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is true, I've heard mixed things about those as well. But yes, a valid option for sure.
 

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Just trying to plan for a winter and spring parts get together and wondering what I could expect out of a particular setup.

2.5 LPT engine
-RSI rods
-new OEM pistons
-ARP hardware
-Enem Y21 cams
-head port and polish
-green fuel injectors
-RICA Stage 3 tune
-AEM WAI
-GT3076R with t3 flange
-AEM FAILSAFE (WIDEBAND AND BOOST GAUGE IN ONE)

Things to include
-Cams seals
-Valve steams
-new PCV sytem
-Headgasket
-Manifold Gaskets
-New water pump
-Timing belt kit
-new bearings
-volvo silicone gasket maker
-new thermostat


What kind of drivability and numbers would a setup like that put out?

This is the route I'm looking to go down, I suppose somethings can be switched out for others if need be and/or personal opinions on what would be best for a complete setup for what I'm looking for. What I'm looking for is a ~325-340 whp reliable car that can stretch out on the freeway that has a really strong mid range pull that flatens out up top put still holds power also. So in all actuality I'm looking to make ~55-70 more whp and have a monster mid RPM pulling car.

Input, remarks, questions, ideas, options/opinions...all welcome. Only thing not welcome is the talk of selling the car and get an R or that I'll be wasting time on a LPT.
did some changes/add a few thinks on your list.
 

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don't waste your time with an off she shelf tune get it either road or dyno tuned...I'd also add an aux trans cooler to that setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I already have a trans cooler I guess I need to update my sig. I'm not extra concerned with the tranny seeing I have that and flush it frequently.

@s60tx- yes I will run a WMI system thought I included that the first time, maybe I forgot. Also seeing I'll be inside the engine I will be doing cam seals, stems and maybe new valve seats depending on how they look as of now. Obviously new kevlar TB/pully/waterpump. new thermostat also. New bearings would be installed upon the rebuild. Headgasket would be brand new along with studs/bolts [arp]. .....My big thing on pcv system is I'd like to remove it completely and have a catch can system in place of it. Would that be possible?

With everything you guys are adding into this build, i know it will be able to make 325-330whp which is all I'd to make safely, I'm not aiming or trying to build a crazy dyno machine or to drive at the limits of the build. I'm sure with all this it can reach a higher number but I'd prefer to stay under 350 but above 320whp to keep some drivability/reliability. With that, do you think everything above is absolutely needed to create a safe build to meet my goal.
 

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I'm pretty some guys over on Volvospeed run Hahn TD05-20G's.

Anyways you can achieve this goal with the 19T. I'se seens it in persons. 320awhp on a 2000 V70R through a M66 transmission swap running about 13psi of boost on the stock TD04-19T.

Now...my memory may betray me here, but I believe the owner, Nick, was in constant communication with Lucky and was still having trouble getting ME7 to make more than 13psi of boost on the 19T for some reason. I believe they were wanting to go for 18psi and that's why Nick was stuck at only 320awhp for the moment...or maybe they got in a run successfully with 18psi of boost and it made 320awhp?...either way it can be done safely with a good ole TD04 and proper tuning.

Pics are on facebook, I'll post a link and if it doesn't work search for "Gateway VCOA Chapter", click on that (should have a Volvo logo as it's picture) and scroll down on it's page until you see the national meet pictures (blue 2000 V70R should be obvious):

His dyno results were posted up on his passenger window, I'll look around and try find them again...I lost his number a while back unfortunately...

Best of luck!

Edit: link didn't work, so I uploaded one of them to imageshack:
 

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Pistons I suppose I could lower the CR but then I basically have a 2.4 with thin cylinder walls. I'd like to utilize the higher CR, 9.0:1 isn't all that high it's fairly moderate.
I think you are confusing compression ratio and stroke. I was merely thinking that if you are going to put new rods in that you should add R spec pistons to the list. Since the CR on the 2.5 R engine is lower than the 2.5 LPT engine, changing pistons won't affect the displacement.

Also, IIRC, the Gen 1 cars were all building those hp figures with thicker cylinder walls. I would think that for reliability, you would want to basically put together an R engine short of the DVVT head. Of course, that head has to be good for more than a couple hp, so in reality, whatever you do, your power should inevitably fall short of the power of a Stage II R.
 

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bigger turbos = less heat than these silly td04s we all use and abuse
 

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K24 is 537 cfm, 18T is 485cfm, 19T is 500cfm, also the k24 has a 2.75" inlet which is great.
 

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bigger turbos = less heat than these silly td04s we all use and abuse
Bigger turbo = different exhaust manifold, oil lines, coolant lines, intake, OTE pipe, wastegate, and BOV/CBV.

Sticking with either a TD04 or K24 will be easiest by far, and both of these can achieve the desired gains.

320awhp will require a better/custom intake manifold and either a ported/polished or better exhaust manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I will have the head sent to the machine shop for porting/polishing a long with a spare Intake/Exhaust manifold for some hogging/porting and maybe polishing. I do agree a bigger turbo which is what I wanted will use less boost to make those numbers and yes less heat as well, I will also agree that there will be a ton more fabricating and sourcing the correct parts to run a different frame than the TDo4/K24 compressors.

I've heard many times that the 19T can be quite finicky with boost building/onset and can surge/spike often which is why more people with LPT's try to stray from them. I too would do my best to not go that route unless there has been a couple people successfully running them that I might not have heard about.

If I went a cheap route instead of the Enem cams and opted to switch to an R head with DVVT what ECU would be required to run that? Would there be any true noticeable gain by going that route over staying VVT with the aftermarket cams?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay for one second let's take a step back and look at the first post going off of the list I put together of parts where would that setup potentionally place me in rough ball park figures whp wise. If making a good estimated guess on what you see there and where I'm at currently in my sig I'd guess and say around 265-270whp 285-295ft/lbs how big of an improvement what that setup give me?
 

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Okay for one second let's take a step back and look at the first post going off of the list I put together of parts where would that setup potentionally place me in rough ball park figures whp wise. If making a good estimated guess on what you see there and where I'm at currently in my sig I'd guess and say around 265-270whp 285-295ft/lbs how big of an improvement what that setup give me?
You're not at 265awhp, two things are holding you back from these numbers. AWD, and your slushbox automatic transmission. If you were a FWD with the M56 tranny you'd be seeing around 265-270whp. I'd estimate you are around 240awhp, seeing as all 2.4T/2.5T AWD dyno's I've ever seen dyno'd around 165awhp stock.

Your first post, with the Hahn TD05 and enem cams and a proper tune (Rica will not custom tune this setup by the way) would easily net you 320awhp, BUT for your situation a 20G is overkill in my opinion.

The easier way to achieve 320awhp would be:
enem cams
19T
Lucky tuned @16-18psi
custom intake manifold
ported/polished exhaust manifold
ported/polished head
and any other engine internals you'd want to use to give you peace of mind

I don't understand why the 19T gets such a bad rep, sure if you tune it wrong it'll be harmful, but that's typically from boost coming in too early and bending the old whiteblock's weaker rods.
 

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19T is not bad turbo, but the K24 is much more easy to deal with and produce more flow, also is a lot cheaper to get than 19T, i got my K24, r manifold, r charge pipe/hose, cooling-oil lines, everything for $720 shipped to my door. I did search for about 2-3 months or more a 19T, and prices were between $600-$900, all used, saw new one for $980.

When i was talking with lucky he told me that k24 is really nice turbo, and easy to deal with on boost peaks. For my "stock" engine is more than enough. Right now i didnt run my car more than 10 psi at 4th gear cause my engine has about 150 miles and my clutch almost nothing and the car feels increible faster than 16T. I wonder how will be at 18 psi, i guess more fun lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah those numbers I was in fact basing off the older style volvo's that are FWD/manual. I can understand dropping that much lower for what I have now.

Besides having a friend who can weld aluminum make a intake how much are the racefab / raceland or whatever brand them custom intakes costing these days if they are still available?

I guess I need to give Lucky a call and see if he'd try to get a 19T/emen/18psi with all the other goodies (if you don't think internals are required I can ask him and see what he thinks) and see about how he gets the datalogging off the car, from the ecu thru his ardvarc/softloader or will i need to invest in a datalogging application/scanner.

I'm more worried about having a solid parts list of what I need and than later on when I get back and prior to installing it all I can figure out the tuning portion. Seems like a 19T or bigger compressor is required, the cams, porting polishing head/IM/EM, WMI, good tuning, and possibly better manifold(s). Have been thinking of the above post on going with R pistons and have them ceramic coated to help with heat.
 
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