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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am restoring a 67 123GT, and am pondering what to do about the brake booster. I know that many of you would simply state something like "Toss the thing--it's useless anyway," and, having considerable personal experience with them, I completely understand. Unfortunately, I'm seeking an authentic restoration, so I can't just toss the thing. That leads me to rebuilding.

I have talked to any number of people who insist that rebuilding a Girling booster is a complete waste of time, and who recommend any of a number of after-market systems. Again, however, that won't work. It has to be a Girling.

I have compiled a list of Girling booster rebuilders, and spoken with most of them. Prices range from about $200 to almost $500. Some say that re-sleeving (brass or SS) is essential, others say either that a) it is impossible, or b) unnecessary. One fellow (in the "bore re-sleeving is impossible" camp insists that with a re-build, occasional use, and an occasional Dot 4 flush they will last forever. He's also a pretty credible guy, but not as credible as a professional restorer who insists that a new SS bore is essential to proper operation.

There must be a good solution out there somewhere. Does anyone on the board happen to know it?

Dan
 

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I had the booster professionally rebuilt on my 142 with a totally unsatisfactory result. At the time it was the only solution as new boosters were not available. Fortunately, VP Auto (and now others) started selling reproductions and saved the day. A new booster from VP was cheaper than the cost of the rebuild. If you want, I can mail you the name of the firm that did my rebuild so that you can consider whether you want to avoid them.

The single circuit booster repair kits that CVI and Scandcar sell for the Girling booster are not an option?
 

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I'd be in the camp that a resleeve is essential - that valve body's alloy is like used tissue after all this time. But even if that's done, there is the little rocker-type air valve, and the leather seal in the vacuum chamber. I don't see why any of those is impossible.

Alternative thought - does the booster actually have to boost? I think it would be a lot easier to pull out the boost plunger and replumb it for straight-through hydraulics. Only you would know. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I'll be... How did I miss that? Perhaps simply by looking so hard for the tough solution that I missed the easy one?

I assume that VP has done something to improve the reliability.

I will be fitting E/ES calipers on the rear, and have the option of replacing the front Amazon units with 2-circuit E/ES calipers. So now I'm faced with a different decision--2-circuit or 1-circuit brakes? Does safety trump authenticity? I think so, or else I wouldn't have gone with disks in the rear.
 

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Your concern regarding authenticity under the hood with the booster seem moot with the changes you propose for the rear.
Not that there's anything wrong with that...
I've got a pair of dual circuit front calipers from a '69 B20 Amazon that need rebuilding, yours for the asking.
Same for a booster, tho' well aware what an uphill battle through the mud that is.

Otherwise, two thumbs up for this new year? I hope so for both of us.
 

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I've used rebuilt Girling boosters on a couple customer cars with excellent results. I get them from Mike at iRoll and can't offer any comparison between what he has vs what other rebuilt units offer or how they differ, but they look and work like new.

For whatever that's worth.

Cameron
www.swedishrelics.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cameron, have you tried the repro units now being sold by VP? I think that I'm going to give them a try--otherwise I'm going with Mike at iRoll. Of the "expert rebuilders" I have spoken with so far, he appears to be the most candid. Not a surprise, I suppose.

I have more than a vehicle's worth of 1967 Amazon parts that I'm trying to sell, ideally as a single lot. Some rust, but even most of the body is useable. One B18 (maybe 2), one M41D, 2 rear axles in good working shape (with brakes), two sets of Recaro seat adjusters, bumpers, glass, horns, driveshafts, instrument clusters (one rebuilt, both work), knobs, dash pad, set of 123GT mirrors (maybe), 1 set of SU carbs, 1 intake manifold, 1 2-port exhaust manifold, all sorts of misc stuff. Located north of Seattle. Ask Phil for his assessment--he knows what I have. Any interest in the whole lot? Give me a call at 603-520-5188.
 

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I kept my '66 130 original with front disc/rear drum. Installed new (Summit) proportional valve in same location as orinal (looked like a kook driving loops around the block and adjusting underneath for at least 10 iterations). Installed all new Cu-Ni (cunifer) brake lines and the SS flex hoses from IPD. No booster.

I'm quite satisfied with the braking action of the car, including quick stops from higher speed. And I don't feel the single system is unsafe. I do monitor the master fluid level reguarly to make sure rock solid.
 
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