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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I posted the first pics on the SPSotD thread yesterday. I'll repost here along with the newer pics of when I got a towel down there and scraped some of it up.

This could be 1 of 2 things, or a combination of the two, so I need you all to help. It could mean the difference between a few $$ and a few hundred $$$.

So at some point in Nov2011 [before I purchased] my R had its power steering hose come off and spray some things in the engine bay. The prev. owner got it fixed and cleaned up and my pre-purchase inspector said all was good to go. However, they could have missed some of the PS fluid, and over the mild winter it got goopy, sloppy as it oxidized/mixed with water and got all brownish/greenish.

This could also be axle grease which is now leaking out of the boot. I have not looked close to see if there's a tear yet. But that would mean a new passenger side axle assembly, which is ~$350 on tasca. I need new LCA's and ball joints and bushings, so I'd just order them all at the same time and keep Tasca in business ;).

Also, this stuff is not just on the axle boot. It was also on some other things as you'll see in the pics. Can the axle toss/squirt grease that far? Hopefully this helps in diagnosis.

Pics!







On paper towel





 

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Looks like CV grease. Especially in that location. If it just started you should be fine with just replacing the boots, but do it ASAP before the hole gets bigger and you loose more grease.

It's a slight PITA to do without proper tools. You will need an O-ring clip spreader...at least that is how it is done on 850s.
 

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From: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...t-of-the-Day&p=1899984&viewfull=1#post1899984

Looks like gear grease, the nasty black stuff in the CV boot. Ugh, passenger side drive axle. Same thing I'm going through right now.
I would say 6 on a scale of 10. You'll need to fix it, but it's one of those things that could wait a bit, but best to be dealt with ASAP.
It's a punctured CV boot, you either reseal it or replace the whole thing. It may not show signs of wear until water penetrates into the boot and into the bearings, causing rust etc, that could cause sudden failure and leave you stranded.

Both will require you to pull the passenger axle, which you'll loose a bit of transmission fluid.

Luckily you own a 2004 GT, which means cheap EMPI axle would do...
Yeah when CV joints go, first it will be a slight grinding noise when you decelerate. Then you'll hear clicking around turns only, and then, right before failure, clicking and grinding all the time.

It used to be that folks would just order new joints and boots, but now that axles are so cheap, they just replace the entire assy...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Didn't we talk about this yesterday? LOL
I just wanted to get some verification before i go buying parts, especially since i was able to get a better shot of the stuff.

Should i just hit up my volvo indy for this? I gots no time til June. If i can save the axle with new boots id rather do that than a whole new assembly.

I dont get any weird clicking or grinding at all.
 

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A new aftermarket assembly for your car is about $110 + shipping. Urinalcake actually had a link to FCPEuro with the EMPI Axle.

I would think CV boot + grease + labor involved would cost just as much.
 

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Jesus dude, stop finding more crap for us to do when it's on the lift.
 

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While your in there check LCA's and tie rods just for good measure. Boot kit is like 20 something from FCP per axel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jesus dude, stop finding more crap for us to do when it's on the lift.
You think Im trying to?? :) Ill prob have to get this done before i trek up your way.

Are the aftermarket assemblies on fcp of good quality like oem?? If they're only $110, id rather be extra sure than $20 and be unsure if i fixed it. Sure beats $350 on tasca either way.

Anyone got a link on a how-to on an axle swap handy?? Searching while at work on a phone sucks ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
While your in there check LCA's and tie rods just for good measure. Boot kit is like 20 something from FCP per axel.
Already got that covered. Placing an order for lca's, ball joints and maybe poly bushings.
 

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Not trying to threadjack, but noticed this today on my new VR. Looks similar, if not as bad. What do you guys think?



 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not trying to threadjack, but noticed this today on my new VR. Looks similar, if not as bad. What do you guys think?



Could be the same problem, so no threadjacking there :D

In your last pic, what is the ribbed boot on the left and then on the lower right circle? Is one CV while the other is axle? [I really don't know those parts of the car yet. Still learning sigh...forgive my ignorance] Reason I ask is now I'm not sure which one is pictured in my OP. Can anyone clarify for me??
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also, if this problem is requiring an axle replacement, and I'll probably do it as soon as I can order the parts, should I go ahead and have my indy do LCA's/balljoints/bushings? I'm guessing those are all in the same area, and it's gonna need an alignment anyways. If I'm going to bite the bullet on an axle, might as well as bite it hard... [It would also make rmorse happier cause that would be a few less things to do in June :D]
 

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Could be the same problem, so no threadjacking there :D

In your last pic, what is the ribbed boot on the left and then on the lower right circle? Is one CV while the other is axle? [I really don't know those parts of the car yet. Still learning sigh...forgive my ignorance] Reason I ask is now I'm not sure which one is pictured in my OP. Can anyone clarify for me??
Last 2 pics -

left circle: steering rack
right circle - passenger side axle (it's the cv boot)

The CV is the Continuously Variable joint. It's the part of the axle that allows the wheels to turn and bump/dip while still receiving power. Previously cars used U-joints in the same application.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Last 2 pics -

left circle: steering rack
right circle - passenger side axle (it's the cv boot)

The CV is the Continuously Variable joint. It's the part of the axle that allows the wheels to turn and bump/dip while still receiving power. Previously cars used U-joints in the same application.
So does mine look like the CV boot to you as well, or the steering rack? Just curious :D
 

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So does mine look like the CV boot to you as well, or the steering rack? Just curious :D
Definitely the CV, the steering rack if punctured does not fling nearly as much crap everywhere like a drive axle does.
 

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In this picture, right under the yellow plastic piece(I'm still wondering what this piece is) is the Axle CV, now imagine black grease dripping from there when spinning. Where would all that grease end up? Now check those spots along that path around the wheel well / chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I agree, as you can clearly see it flung all the way up on the side there. I'm just a little paranoid about misdiagnosis on these cars. Don't mind me :D
 
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