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There should be a sticker/plate somewhere under the hood with the recommended speed listed. I believe the older CIS cars were 750RPM, and the LH cars should be 900RPM.<P>
 

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Those Tach kits go cheaply on ebay, and it's an easy install. <P>That said, I think mine is set to the 750 level, but I've had probs with it stalling (auto car) at idle. If I keep my foot on the gas to 900, it's totally smooth. Hmmm.
 

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Mine is solid at 900 RPM. But I too think there is a plate under the hood somewhere that states the idle speed.<P>Jay<BR>--<BR>83 242 Turbo<BR>98 S70 T5SE
 

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How can I adjust the idle on my 89 245 dl? I have a manual that said there was a "dial" on the side of the engine that could be adjusted, but I cannot find it.
 

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I think the ECU is supposed to control the idle on the LH-jet 240s. There's a knob on the bottom side of the throttle body that is used for fine adjustment of the idle, but I don't think it will do much if your idle is way off. It may not even be on an '89 w/LH2.4. However, my LH2.2 '87 240 does have the knob, but I've never adjusted it because I'm not certain what affect it will have.<P>I'll check my Bentley manual later.<P>
 

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Here's how the idle adjuster screw works for LH cars:<P>Haynes manual describes the process as being identical on all LH cars, but I wouldn't take it as gospel on the later models. It is definitely correct for my '83. Find a socket/plug near the relays, behind the battery, with two wires leading into it (blue/white and red wires) that is not connected to anything. Start the car. Ground the blue/white wire with a test lead - this effectively shuts off the idle air control valve (IAC), so you can set your baseline idle. <B>NOTE 1</B> - your baseline idle may be set so low that the car stalls with the test lead grounded. In this case, unscrew (counterclockwise) the idle adjustment screw a couple of turns and try to start the car again. <B>NOTE 2 - DO NOT GROUND THE RED WIRE!</B> This goes to your O2 sensor, and grounding it will destroy the sensor. Now, with the engine idling and the test point grounded, adjust the idle screw until you have a smooth, stable idle at roughly 900RPM. Then disconnect the test point - the engine will likely surge as the IAC cycles. If the engine does not settle back to a smooth idle with the test point disconnected, your IAC is dirty/worn/dead, and should be attended to.<P>Once you have established the baseline idle, the IAC takes care of all those minor trim changes that you would otherwise have to do manually to compensate for seasonal temp variations and sudden changes in load or throttle position.<P>
 

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Can anyone else start his 240 when cold and step firmly on the brake pedal to stall the engine? I know it has to do with vacuum, but I'm wondering if I have an IAC problem.<P>
 

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i had my 245 tapets ajusted, back off so it would run and start better,i can get in turn the key and drive instanly with full power.. my other 240's take a little longer and dont quite have full power til there warmed up, maybe this could help,before the adjustment the car would't even look at starting in the morning cold weather.<P>
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by towerymt:<BR><B>Can anyone else start his 240 when cold and step firmly on the brake pedal to stall the engine? I know it has to do with vacuum, but I'm wondering if I have an IAC problem.<P></B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P><BR>The engine is more susceptible to stalling when cold, of course, but I had a similar problem - even when warm, when I came to a stop, the engine would nearly die, then surge. It was caused by a vacuum leak at the brake booster. Use a 'mechanic's stethoscope' (piece of hose or tubing held to your ear) to listen around the hose and connections between the manifold and brake booster. In my case, there was air leaking around both the plastic plug where the hose connects to the brake booster body, as well as the junction between the master cylinder and brake booster body. I performed a quick-fix by coating both junctions with GOOP adhesive/sealant. Problem solved.<BR><P>
 

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Originally posted by 11110000:<BR> <BR> when I came to a stop, the engine would nearly die, then surge. It was caused by a vacuum leak at the brake <P>hmm maybe thats whats wrong with my 245. most times when i pull up the car plutters and it also does it when you turn a corner!not always but the ocaisional time to time.weird! i thought it may be the fuel filter...<P>
 
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