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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today i was driving in my tuned S40. And when i wanted to overtake a car in 3th gear i notice that
the rpm's went up but no acceleration... I think a clutch upgrade is needed soon. Who has a good experience with what upgrade?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
i've seen some option. i can only go to the dutch european tuning site and they don't have any options for my S40.
So went looking on ebay and some focus tuners in England. these i've seen.

OEM focus RS kit:

FORD FOCUS RS MK2 FLYWHEEL & CLUTCH KIT WITH A RELEASE BEARING $1055


Includes clutch cover, clutch plate, flywheel and release bearing for your MK2 RS focus.

These have been fitted as an upgrade on the Focus MK2 ST225 you need all parts above.

http://www.demonperformancecentre.co.uk/index.php/models/st-focus/st-focus-mk2-clutch-s


Helix Flywheel & Organic Clutch kit 240mm - Ford Focus ST225 $1450



http://www.pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Helix-Flywheel-Organic-Clutch-kit-240mm_487.jsp

maybe some options in the US for volvo?
 

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Check out Viva for their Spec clutches and smf's. Also, some guys run the S60r clutch with the S40 slave cylinder. Good luck
 

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You have several options:
Ford RS clutch
S60R clutch, both about 40% more clamping than OEM
Sachs
AP racing
Helix
Spec
I am not sure what option is best. I don't think I'm particularly abusive, but the OEM clutch for me lastest about 25K, the Spec is showing signs of slipping after 16K. Which is kinda weird because I've had lot's of Volvo's(none of them stock) and I usually got 100K out of a clutch. I'm not sure what my next clutch will be, I'm pushing 600Nm,and truthfully what's the point of a built car if you don't push it once in a while.
 

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Not to thread jack, but how's the ride on those KW's, Madden? It's obvious that your ride is heavily modded, and I'm sure that you may have experimented with a few different set ups for suspension. I hear the KW's are great on the track, but how are they on the street?
 

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If You go with the RS stuff , You should use it all - which included an Item : Genuine Ford Focus RS Mk2 Clutch master cylinder - there is some sort of Orifice
Inside apparently - it maybe some sort of - Abuse Retarder to Lower the Dropped Clutch - Impact - NOT sure - anyone chime in Here .

As some have had their clutch slip when doing - Quick Release Loads unto the Drive-line
. I have only experienced this once - when I had to do some
Quick Maneuvers on a Very Steep Drive
- which after getting up to the Top - it was like Hell this is for Jeeps . ( Very Tight - Turn around etc. )


It felt like the Clutch Floated for a few seconds , at which Time You add to much power
It just Rev's - got a little clutch smell - that was 20,000 miles ago . ( Still Good )

As I was just Testing AWD other Day 2 wheels on Wet Road , 2 Wheels on Wet Leaves.
A-OK______( Which makes me think it has to do with the Speed of which - Clutch is Dumped )
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info. Today i went for a testdrive after work and in 3th and 4th gear (i'm sure in 5th and 6th as wel) it starts slipping every time between 3000 - 3500.
My volvo has 170.000km on it, so little over 100k miles. I think its the original clutch so not bad, if i would drive with oem hp i think it would last at least another 25k.

Pumaspeed can't say for sure it fits, so now my local tuningshop (dutch power trading) to find something for me. He's looking for Helix first. If i bought something i post
what i bought and maybe if i don't forget i post a how to with a lot of pictures.

@madden, now i go of topic in my own topic, but its a good question from screamindman. i'm thinking of buying the AP set next year.
 

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Today i was driving in my tuned S40. And when i wanted to overtake a car in 3th gear i notice that
the rpm's went up but no acceleration... I think a clutch upgrade is needed soon. Who has a good experience with what upgrade?
You'll do better with Sachs then with anything else: http://www.sachsperformance.com/Sac.../T5-169-kW-;-03/2007-:::2_1257_2795_3961.html

Buy Helix only if you are considering upgrading to K16 turbo, although even then I would probably choose Sachs assuming your tune has "reasonable" torque curve.

P.S. many European customers reported problems with AP clutches, same with Spec..
 

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KW's are pretty compliant. I had H&R coilovers before and I found them perfectly planted on a smooth road but on bad roads, they were way too harsh and jarring. The KW's are a vast improvement, make no mistake however they are a lot stiffer than OEM, but I find them very confidence inspiring when the car is pushed and for how stiff they are, not harsh to me.
 

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Thanks Madden. I've been going back and forth over what to do with the suspension. Not that I'm ready to pull the trigger on something yet but I'm getting all the facts before I dish out for the hardware lol.

@Kova--I've also heard good and bad about Spec. All the clutch reviews (all different applications) are night and day. One person says the Spec clutch is the best clutch ever with perfect engagement and great holding power, and then someone else will say that theirs died or started slipping after practically no mileage lol. Don't know what to believe, and don't wanna find out the hard way lol. If my clutch goes, I don't know what to replace it with because I want to do a k16 swap eventually, and I only want to change my clutch once. I'm not familiar with the Helix stuff and I don't know how an "R" clutch would hold the torque of a fat K16 map.
 

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@Kova--I've also heard good and bad about Spec. All the clutch reviews (all different applications) are night and day. One person says the Spec clutch is the best clutch ever with perfect engagement and great holding power, and then someone else will say that theirs died or started slipping after practically no mileage lol. Don't know what to believe, and don't wanna find out the hard way lol. If my clutch goes, I don't know what to replace it with because I want to do a k16 swap eventually, and I only want to change my clutch once. I'm not familiar with the Helix stuff and I don't know how an "R" clutch would hold the torque of a fat K16 map.
Well, I did a K16 swap 6 months ago and stock clutch is still holding but here I must emphasize the fact that my tune was adjusted to have 500 Nm of max torque (340whp, 384 hp at the flywheel).

Once the stock clutch fails I will most probably go for Sachs clutch.
 

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Thanks Kova, I'll take the Sachs into consideration. You guys are the maniacs that are pushing these S40s to the limit lol and have experience with these parts under the harshest conditions so the recommendations hold weight. I'm dying to see someone test out that Pumaspeed 450 RS K16 hybrid to see what #'s can be made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
mine is giving up about after one month driving with 501nm. maybe a bit more now it's below 10 degrees celcius.
but as i sayd the car allready done 170.000 km's. But Holland has no hills that helps i guess.
when you go above 400hp, i think you need internal mods as wel right? darton sleeves en rods etc.
 

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mine is giving up about after one month driving with 501nm. maybe a bit more now it's below 10 degrees celcius.
but as i sayd the car allready done 170.000 km's. But Holland has no hills that helps i guess.
when you go above 400hp, i think you need internal mods as wel right? darton sleeves en rods etc.
Torque is bending rods, not the peak power itself. As long as you keep max torque to less then 540 Nm you can keep stock internals. Assuming of course the tune is done properly.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Fasttech is a respectable tuner in Holland, done a lot of custom projects. so below 540nm is no problem, if you maintenance the car proper
and drive with your mind (not with cold engine and cool down the last miles). here's my curve:




still waiting to hear about the clutch, i hope i can order this week.
 

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Yes, assuming you don't get detonations (knocking) and that cylinder temps are held within reasonable limits using gasoline to cool things a bit cylinder walls should be fine.
Torque wise below 540Nm shouldn't be a problem for connecting rods. RPM wise my limiter has been set to 7500 and it works fine, although I don't roll it that high very often.

Nice curves! :)

Which air intake do you have?

P.S. I wouldn't mess with dump valves if I were you. Our ECU likes air to recirculate and stock unit that comes with the turbo is doing a fine job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have a faultcode that could be the dv or the tuner must program the ecu a bit different. He programmed the O2 censor out so i don't get a faultcode.
I have the stock dv also in the system. I'm removing the collins dv and then look if the code is gone. If not, back to the tuner.
He also told me a dv is not good, but it would not damages the car. And if i like it then let it on, but if the code keeps coming back it's gone.

i have the original intake, only a K&N replacement filter. I drive on octane 102, live 10km's from the german border where you can get that for less then
octane 95 in holland, so cheaper and better, only somethimes when i'm back form the autobahn 1/4 of the petrol is gone haha :D
 

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Side Note In Regards : To Ordering any of these Items : Over Sea's Tax's or VAT : Is Mostly Refundable !

http://www.ehow.com/list_6706491_uk-vat-refund-rules.html :

http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/tips/vat.htm

VAT Retail Export Scheme. The store will supply documentation, usually the form VAT 407, at the time of the purchase.

Anyone had there: Vat - Removed Up Front or gotten It Refunded - After Purchase ?
When buying parts from EU VAT should be removed upfront.
 

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Alright, so does anyone have a real verdict here? Sorry for bringing this back from the grave, but I just experienced some slippery clutch on my way home. Instead of keeping with OEM for the M66, I might as well upgrade as I'm getting ready to start adding some power.

Any verifications from early in this thread or suggestions not listed?

Thanks guys!
 
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