[unrlmth]

I've done tons of searching on here and I'm not really finding the answers I'm looking for. This is all for a 2005 S40.

I have an extra set of e46 projects and a 35w DDM kit that I want to use. From what I've read the projects both right in, and I will also need a BOW Eliminator.

The one thing I am unsure of is the wiper motor issues.

What do I need to do to make sure I don't kill it?

 

[slrising]

You need something like this to protect the wiper motor as well as protect the ballasts from the PWM voltage: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?129216

Also and excellent thread here for a retrofit: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...allasts-Morimoto-5000K-35W&highlight=retrofit

 

[unrlmth]

You need something like this to protect the wiper motor as well as protect the ballasts from the PWM voltage: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?129216

Thanks for linking the thread. Will one of these LINK do the same thing as the DIY solution?

Also would it be beneficial to get 55w ballasts? I've heard some talk of them being better because the power draw from them is closer to stock.

 

[slrising]

No the error code eliminator does just that elimantes the error code to tell the CEM your lights are still working and not faulty, it doesn't do anything to supress the effects of the PWM voltage has on the ballasts nor will it have an effect on protecting your wiper motor. The 55W ballasts will be brighter and closer to stock voltage but again that won't prevent PWM voltage effects on the ballasts or protect the wiper motor, although it would probably while operating limit the possible effect on the wiper motor and limit the effect of the PWM voltage the startup of the ballast would null the benefit of have a closer operational draw and the startup draw will be significantly higher than stock. Many member have had success with both ballasts without protection but many have also had isssues with both the ballasts failing and the wiper motor. There is also a thread talking about what people have installed, how long and what if any problems, can't find it at the moment though. IIRC the 35W kit will be output at least double what the stock halogens do and since your using projectors as well should be equal or better in terms of lumen output of the stock Bi-Xenon setup while operating on low beams. Are you planning on doing a low beam only setup or having the HID retrofit be both hi and low beam using a solenoid to rotate the cutouff shield during high beam operation like the stock Bi-Xenon setup?

 

[-ForceFed-]

I wanted to use oem ballasts but the 35W system didnt want to operate even with shadows fix, he offered to correct it but I ended up saving quite a bit of money going with the DDM's I already had.

You merely need a conversion harness that connects the DDM ballasts to D2S connection so you can use the proper bulbs. I purchased all my parts thru Theretrofitsource.com and dealt with Matt who was a huge help.

 

[unrlmth]

Well I read the more technical explanation thread and that cleared up the confusion I was having about the BOWE. Is there anywhere to buy theshadow's device? I don't have a problem making it, I would just rather no deal with ordering/finding parts and stuff.

And since I don't have the BiXenon projectors it will be just for the lows.

 

[-ForceFed-]

PM shadow, he just makes them from scratch.

 

[theshadow27]

Thanks for looking after things Scott and Kyle. Ben: PM replied.

 

[Guru]

Apparently, if you seek out a CAN BUS HID set with digital ballasts, it's all just plug n play from there, you will not need anything else.

Something like this> Philips CAN-BUS xenon HID kit

 

[Veefifty T5AWD]

I'm 99% sure I read that Philips does NOT make HID kits, and these are total rip-offs...

 

[-ForceFed-]

That is correct, I contacted a Phillips dealer and they assured me Phillips does not produce an illegal hid kit such as that. Like it or not aftermarket lighting is illegal in most states where they state modified lighting clause along with exhaust. Enforcing is another story but still its not real, and pricey too for that matter.

Supposedly almost all ballast out are now can bus digital but that doesn't refer to pwm circuits that shadow figured out was the cause of the issues.

 

[Guru]

I thought so too, so I sent an e-mail to Philips xenons about a possible rip-off, they replied within 24 hours saying that the HID lights were genuine and made in Germany by Philips whereas the ballasts are made for Philips by another company, and have philips stamp and approval, Philips does not manufacture ballasts.

That's what they said...

I'm not convinced either

But there are other makes out there, other than Philips, that manufacture can-bus ballasts.

 

[-ForceFed-]

I know Phillips bulbs are legit but I agree other than oem they don't make that kind of ballast. I didn't trust it for the money.

 

[slrising]

That and you can get the same (different brand) and legit from the Retrofit source for cheaper and add bi-xenon projectors as well and wiring for about $150.00 more and have a complete setup. Also a quick search of the Philips site returns nothing with those part numbers, xendrive, XLD or HID conversion kits.

 

[-ForceFed-]

Exactly its false branding. Reason they come from China or the Philippines generally. They may have some sort of Phillips components but the kits themselves are no produced and sold by Philips.

If u go to a world market trading site u can find all of these ballasts including the DDM stuff for literally dollars in bulk. They are almost all generic product from China with a companies stamp, design, logo, and box. Reason for price variance is based on how big of orders they place to reduce cost, product is virtually the same other than a few design choices.

Selling hids and leds has to be the easiest profitable business out there. Local guy is a millionaire and he started from nothing buying 100 piece orders to now truck loads. Reason for warranties is because the product is so cheap it costs pennies of the profit margin to give a free ballast out here and there lol.

 

[theshadow27]

Apparently, if you seek out a CAN BUS HID set with digital ballasts, it's all just plug n play from there, you will not need anything else.

Something like this> Philips CAN-BUS xenon HID kit

For the record:

There is no way for an HID kit to "work with the car" using "CAN-BUS" or any other interface if it has only two input wires (such as the one you linked). A ballast requires +12V and ground. If it were to somehow magically talk to the car, expect to see at least four wires to connect to the vehicle. I've yet to see any aftermarket kit require a four-wire connection, so I maintain there is no advantage to using a "digital" or "CAN-BUS" ballast in terms of compatibility with the P1 CEM. (Digital ballasts are more efficient and do provide better bulb life, but only when fed with proper VDC)

Phillips does not manufacture any retrofit bulb - that is, a HID capsule with a halogen base (H1, H7, H12, 9006, etc). Phillips does manufacture D1S and D2S HID bulbs - capsules with bases designed for xenon optics. HID kit manufactures create bulbs in one of two ways, either by grinding off the D2S base and gluing on a halogen base, or purchasing capsules before they are fitted with bases. If rebased from Phillips D2S bulbs, the a retrofit could claim to have "Phillips" capsules in their retrofit bulbs, however it does not imply that responsible quality control processes supervised the manufacture of their product.

As for the Phillips ballast - this has become a generic term for copies of the 3rd generation ballast designed by Phillips and produced by Mitsubishi. It was soon reverse engineered and produced in bulk in China and Japan. The design is 15 years old at this point and adding "Phillips" to the name is only marketing - there are no Phillips components in these units and they are generally very low quality. Look for fourth or fifth generation designs when considering a retrofit.

 

[Guru]

Thanks for the replies people, and no thread hijack intended btw,

I have done some googling ever since I suggested those Philips sets and I have become a bit wiser about the issue, it was obvious from the beginning coz they're using the old and long gone shield+stars philips logo.

Shadow, what you're saying about can-bus ballast is very true, can't argue with that, but it's all about marketing... I think what the dealers mean by saying can-bus ballast is that they have built in warning cancelers omitting the need to buy them separately. The same goes for ultra mega extra supa dupa slim ballasts, which is a regular ballast but with the igniter left outside the ballast shell ... so you end up having to secure 4 pieces of hardware in the engine bay and not only 2 as you would with the thicker regular ones.

I've been wanting to fit a HID kit to my car for ages now, but really can't decide on which quality product to buy, I've emailed John from SharpHD concerning the DDM ballasts and they do ship to Europe but the 55w ballasts are out of stock, and he insists that the 35w ballasts will not work for my car. As for the retrofit source, well, 150$ for Matsu****a ballasts + aprrox. 70$ shipping + 44$ customs really adds up, considering that the kit might end up in the trash can if the traffic police decide to make my day one day, which would mean chucking 264$ in the garbage.
There are many HID kits here on the market but it's impossible to find out who manufactures the ballasts, and most, if not all I could find, were 35w.
Btw, Would I need a BOW Eliminator with a 55w kit too??

An just for the record> since the wiper motor was a big issue with HID kits, this potential danger can be circumvented by grounding the ballast else where on the chassis, and not through the OE harness, for them not to share ground on the right strut tower.

 

[-ForceFed-]

All I can say is doing a legitimate retrofit will be more of a difference than u can ever imagine. I am truly blown away every time I get in the s40 compared to the NSX hid.

 

[slrising]

Moving the ground point won't circumvent any problems with the wiper motor, the entire chassis is ground as essentially has the exact same electrical potential in that reguards, the WWM just happens to be the path of least resistance, its really not about grounding but PWM voltage on the line to the ballasts causing issues during the firing of the ballasts.

 

[jasonb]

Hello all,
I'm running 35W Ballasts which are not the slim version but claim to be digital (yes I know the discussion on digital with 2 wires!!).
I sourced them from Germany but who knows where they originate from!
So far they're running just fine, no bulb out warnings and all appears to be stable. The 6000K's are now starting to show a little more yellow in the beam with age but to be expected. I've been running them for over a year now.
...somebody tell me that's normal and not a sign of something else?

I have the error cancellers in a box but have never fitted them.

I've been thinking about using a dedicated wiring harness and re-routing the earthing strap but I think the earthing issue is not as clear cut as I would like.

Could somebody write up a step by step "preferred" installation guide/method with references to any additional equipment which is not part of a HID kit?

Thanks everyone, great input from all