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Been a while since I’ve been over on the forum. The wife’s 90 doesn’t get driven much but i decided to go ahead a give it a fresh new battery today since I was replacing the one in the VR also.
It was about 14º here the other day and the 90 barely started. So, along with a 15% off coupon and your reminder, I too am putting a new battery in the 90 tomorrow. I can't complain. As far as I can tell it's the original battery, which puts it over 10 years old. Luckily I have an older, completely knackered battery in the garage for the core charge and I can move the old 90 battery to my Land Rover.
 

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It was about 14º here the other day and the 90 barely started. So, along with a 15% off coupon and your reminder, I too am putting a new battery in the 90 tomorrow. I can't complain. As far as I can tell it's the original battery, which puts it over 10 years old. Luckily I have an older, completely knackered battery in the garage for the core charge and I can move the old 90 battery to my Land Rover.
Nice yes the 15% off makes it a good buy . Our 90 is a 2013 and probably still has plenty of like but the other day wife said the battery low warning came on so I thought I better just go ahead and do it.


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Replaced the original front struts with Bilstein B4s. Lemforder upper bearings and Uro upper mounts. I reused the lower spring rubber seats, as they looked good.
I used a Harbor freight strut spring compressor that I've had for maybe 10 years, and which is no longer available. It was a bit unnerving as the compressor bolts bent as the pressure increased because the tool stands off a way from the spring, but it survived two uses and the bolts returned to straight.
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2005 XC90 2.5T AWD, 219k miles
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I used that same style compressor from HF maybe 16 years ago. The all thread bent so badly they had to be retired after the first use as they nearly released the spring. That was just on a 2500lb vintage Mustang spring! The new style is a captured design, so even if the clamp were to slide off the spring it wouldn’t release the compression, and hence is much safer.

One benefit to the Sachs struts is they include the lower rubber spring seat.
 

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2014 XC90 3.2L
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Very fancy, bet that makes it a lot easier to turn. I've had good luck with the rental ones from auto part stores, look identical to those ones.
 

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I hope to not have to do that job again. The concern with my one and the later one is that the hook bits are cast iron or maybe steel, at best. Forged steel would have helped the comfort level. I felt like standing behind a blast shield while screwing those swarthy springs down. OSHA would probably require a safety chain. If I had two chain hooks, I would have done that. What's life without a little risk? 😕
Good thinking on the flat washer!
 
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2005 XC90 2.5T AWD, 219k miles
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Speaking of which, I’m returning my Autozone spring compressor rental today and picking up an inner tie rod tool.

Going to replace outer tie rod ends this afternoon. Hopefully the inners are OK (probably not), as I don’t have the inner rod counter hold tool and could not find one. Searches on SS and MVS suggest channel locks with something firm but pliable to protect the rack. Many tutorials I have seen skipped using a counter hold altogether, but Volvo recommends it because you can damage the rack when busting the inner rod end loose. Plenty of posts on subsequently leaking racks due to that problem, hence why I’ve avoided it so long.
 

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08V8XC90Sport, 06V8XC90OceanRace
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I've replaced 2 sets of inner TRE on 2 separate racks and it made little difference (unless the TRE is literally loose in the socket it's probably okay). In the end, I replaced both racks outright.
Good luck with your replacement.
 

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2005 XC90 2.5T AWD, 219k miles
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Link didn’t work, but I suspect it was linking to a standard inner rod tool (which I’ll be renting).

The tool I was referring to is unique to Volvo, and it essentially a clamp that holds the steering rack from twisting when the inner rod is unfastened or torqued. It’s machined so it doesn’t mar the rack and cause leaks later. A more generic tool can still be used for unfastening the inner tie rod itself.

Most folks don’t seem to bother with the counterhold and they get by problem free, whereas some complain of leaks due to busting inner seals. Others say they can replicate the counter hold with some vice grips and something to protect the rack, which is what I’ll be trying.

This is a Hail Mary of sorts. There is play in both Left and Right wheels, so if I’m lucky it’s just the rods but it could just as well be the rack. I’m giving this a shot since I already had the parts and the car is getting aligned next week since I replaced the struts and wheel bearing recently. If it doesn’t work, a new rack will be installed (and will be the perfect time for some other things since the rear subframe gets lowered).

 

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In reality, if there's a little scarring on the rack rod, it does no harm since that portion close to the inner tie rod end doesn't travel into the bearings or seals. The rack rod is so hardened that you may not scratch it, anyway. When I did mine, the tool was of little value, as the ends came off without too much force.
Dunno why the link didn't work, but you can search using the same terms; "inner tie rod wrench". I think the U-Bolt type may actually be the best. I have the cam type and it doesn't grip well.
 
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2005 XC90 2.5T AWD, 219k miles
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In reality, if there's a little scarring on the rack rod, it does no harm since that portion close to the inner tie rod end doesn't travel into the bearings or seals. The rack rod is so hardened that you may not scratch it, anyway. When I did mine, the tool was of little value, as the ends came off without too much force.
Dunno why the link didn't work, but you can search using the same terms; "inner tie rod wrench". I think the U-Bolt type may actually be the best. I have the cam type and it doesn't grip well.
Awesome. This gives me some assurance that I’m making a mountain of a mole hill, which is often my problem!
 

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2005 XC90 2.5T AWD, 219k miles
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Tie rods went well. Found no play on the inner tie rods so I left them alone and only did the outers. Right side came off easy, left side required a torch. I’ve never needed to torch a bolt before but I’m a believer now!

Test drive was good, car is tracking pretty straight and only slightly pulls when braking. The car had been pulling really hard when braking, so I’m optimistic I’ve resolved another problem. Alignment scheduled for Monday.
 

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It's important to hold the rack when you remove the inner tie rods as otherwise the turning force tends to push the pinion out of place. I have a strip of aluminum about 3/4" by 5" by .050" thick bent into a "C" shape that I put around the rack and grab with big vice grips.
 

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2007 XC90 3.2L FWD Maroon "Project Car"
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Well, not quite "today", but yesterday afternoon: I ordered a Kenwood DMX-4707S radio (Apple CarPlay and Android compatible) allong with the Metra AXDIS-VL42 interfaces and dash kit to replace my factory radio, which is throwing all sorts of error codes; the codes are not my major motivation, however; I want something that works better for hands-free phone calls, the Motorola system is just too clunky (and doesn't import my contacts and I'm not putting 300 in manually). Also, the phone call volume can't be adjusted to make the phone calls audible unless I turn the volume all the way up, and then the phone call ends and my ears are assaulted by too-loud music.
Total for all the parts and labor will be a bit over $1100. The Volvo amp will be bypassed and I will use the radio's built-in amp, I am not a "boom car" kind of guy so that amp is sufficient. I will say I hesitated to put this kind of money into a 2007-vintage car, but it is my intention to drive this for years to come, replacing engine and transmission when necessary. The car itself is in very good condition and since buying it in October I have redone suspension and brakes, replacing everything that was questionable there. I have also replaced fuel vapor system parts, a cracked seat control switch and its surround, broken center console (cupholder lid) parts, and have new tailgate lift struts on the way.
I was a new-car guy for decades, but retirement realities have made me go back to this used car for which I paid cash and I am fixing the little details using cash as well. Insurance costs are low and I will put money away for that engine and transmission once I iron out the little things that need fixing. The sunroof is inoperable but is closed fully and doesn't leak - I can live with that.
EDIT: I also have sent my BCU (ABS controller) in for repair, along with a spare ABS motor so I will have no further ABS codes. The used controller I have in the car in the meantime was from an AWD and throws a code for a bad AWD clutch, but the other ABS errors have disappeared completely and now it's just a skid error. Once my repair comes back and I put that back on the car, I think I'll be fine with ABS as well.
Dave
2007 XC90 3.2 FWD 5-passenger Maroon with Black interior.
 

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Hello US Lolvo friends. Happy New Year. Yes as Googlevit say: "Forum member @Hong Kong was able to source silicone from IPD for his 5 cylinder Ocean Race, they're a nice blue color to match the rest of his vehicle IIRC and he never has to see the sweating." Up today blue silicone hose is dry like desert. Not single sign of oil. :) In mean time I was in Sweden and also purchased blue hose for cooler...soon photos.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Light Automotive design Automotive fuel system
 

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Hello US Lolvo friends. Happy New Year. Yes as Googlevit say: "Forum member @Hong Kong was able to source silicone from IPD for his 5 cylinder Ocean Race, they're a nice blue color to match the rest of his vehicle IIRC and he never has to see the sweating." Up today blue silicone hose is dry like desert. Not single sign of oil. :) In mean time I was in Sweden and also purchased blue hose for cooler...soon photos. View attachment 144167
 
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