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My V8 plugs usually cost under $70 for the set- Ignition coil, spark plug, ignition cable. 2008 Volvo XC90 | Volvo Cars Lisle, Lisle IL

I combine shipping when I do my orders and/or buy in advance of replacement when the OE resellers are offering an additional 20% off (2x yearly IIRC) to further save.

No idea why anyone would pay FCP $100 for a set, must be the lifetime warranty.
If my only perspective was the local dealer or FCP, I'd take FCP's prices any day.

Personally I like NGK because I can walk down to the local autoparts store and they have them on the shelf. The blue box ends up in the garbage any way, and aside from the ink on the ceramic, they're identical.
 

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For V8 the OE spark plugs are NGK Iridium anyway. I've been running NGK Ruthenium for two years and they work beautifully. (FCP is nice but the warranty is basically useless once shipping from/to Canada is factored in).
Try using PayPal returns?
 
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Hmm, well if they're going to cut pretty important wires, it would be nice if they could use a more desirable method of repair.

I went to Jaycar and got some heatable solder/shrink things.
 

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Hmm, well if they're going to cut pretty important wires, it would be nice if they could use a more desirable method of repair.

I went to Jaycar and got some heatable solder/shrink things.
What's your issue with those butt splices? Crimp on and/or solder type splices are reliable and are often watertight too using adhesive lined heat shrink.
 

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What's your issue with those butt splices? Crimp on and/or solder type splices are reliable and are often watertight too using adhesive lined heat shrink.
Oh you know, just not a fan of the butt connector. I rate it second worst way to connect wire after twisting the wire together and putting dollar shop electrical tape over it.
 

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08V8XC90Sport, 06V8XC90OceanRace
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3M heat shrink marine automotive ring terminal 1/4" 12-10 stud eye plus a cheap-o multi-die ratchet compression crimper (representative die, you decide if another works better). That's how I do my V8 grounds. Pay special attention to the wire(s) in the crimp, give a tug when you're complete so you know you have a solid mechanical termination.

Hand tool Tool Wood Pliers Knife
 

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“Dew” -- 2004 XC90 T6 in Nautic Blue
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I don't think that's possible.
Seems you’re right (y) — did some digging, ECM has control over spark advance, but I couldn’t find anything about coil discharge voltage. In that case I’d guess the odds are that my worn plugs had far too large of a gap, which does increase the voltage requirement.
 

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I couldn’t find anything about coil discharge voltage
When the ECM interrupts the current through the primary winding of the coil, the magnetic field collapses across the core of the secondary coil. This induces high voltage in the secondary which builds until it reaches a value high enough to ionize the air in the spark plug gap, allowing the spark to jump to ground.. Once that happens, the voltage drops rapidly until the spark stops. There's really no way to control it, other than by introducing resistance in the plug wires or the plug itself, which causes the spark to stop sooner, but has no effect on the starting voltage. (Shortening the spark duration reduces erosion of the plug electrodes.)

Larger gaps will cause the voltage to build to a higher value before it jumps the gap, but that's a symptom, not the cause.
 

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08V8XC90Sport, 06V8XC90OceanRace
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Rectangle Font Parallel Circuit component Engineering

06 V8 with some issues for another reference on coils.

Input 1 is a ground connection. I think the individual grounds may connect to a single ground in the base of the wiring harness that runs over the injectors, next time I'm doing valve covers I'll check.
Input 2 is misfire lead via transistor triggered output going to A:62 (2,3,5,8) and A:64 (1,4,6,7) on ECM.
Input 4 is pulsed firing lead (A:54 thru A:60 and B:1 on ECM).
Output 3 is spark side ground with an HV diode in the path (reverse current protection?).

I also see a reference of .98 ohms for the primary coil winding in VIDA (284/Component Specifications).

edit- fix typos.
 
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Got car starting instantly after cleaning and greasing (dilectric) ground wires and all wires connected to the starter. Went from a 720 to 810cca battery.

Found more poor workmanship from the mechanics that have worked on this car. First was the steel shroud I found on top of the engine undertray. Electrical tape on pcv valve hose. Bracket for wiring not put back on belt side of engine. Zip ties holding injector switches together. No doubt I'll keep finding more. Excellent reminders of why I've been maintaining my own cars since I was 17.

Automotive exterior Font Bumper Auto part Electric blue


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Auto part Automotive wheel system


Gas Auto part Metal Bumper Fixture


Automotive tire Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Auto part
 

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08V8XC90Sport, 06V8XC90OceanRace
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Cover for the rear bank camshaft position sensor, see internet-grabbed photo lower right corner-
Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design


Cross bank PCV breather hose is what got taped. That's a normally replaceable part for the job, more likely than not the folks who did your work have not done many V8s.

Full parts list for the job is in this thread- V8 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum , I used every part although I ordered extra hardware. FCP also has a great kit if anyone is interested in seeing visually what's involved hose and gasket-wise (I alsoe replace PCV and add FPS since I'm there)- Volvo Valve Cover Gasket Kit - Reinz KIT-516322 | FCP Euro

Not going to help you but might help the next person to have everything in hand before starting.
 

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08V8XC90Sport, 06V8XC90OceanRace
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Adding this link for V8 owners- V8 (B8444S) related information

You may consider posting in here so V8 specific information does not get diluted in the more general thread.
 

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2005 XC90 2.5T AWD, 219k miles
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I’ve been inspired to dig more deeply on this.

FCP has the best photo of the bolt head, it appears to be stamped “BUFO 8.8” BUFO is the trademark for small hardware produced by the Bulten AB ironmongery. I was able to find them as a supplier for Volvo and Saab among other Euro automakers. The 8.8 is a surprise, because it would be a lower grade than typical suspension hardware. It thus seems like all the options above are probably fine.

I’ll leave my order alone and upload some photos and dimensions when I get my delivery.

There are also some legacy parts numbers which I was able to track to suppliers dealing in Volvo marine parts. Those bolts were about $2.50 each.
Order arrived. Strut mount bolts are standard grade 8.8 flanged bolts, as are the wheel hub bolts (separate washer), and axle bolt (separate washer). Axle bolt has some anti seize.

I think I’ll make a separate thread with dimensions of these bolts and the subframe bolts I have waiting in the wings. Shade tree mechanics might be more willing to replace them (all are TTY) if they know they can be bought at the local hardware store for $3-5 each compared to the $6-17 on FCP/IPD/etc.

Update: The original bolts (strut mount and wheel hub) are all 10.9, but the OEM replacement are 8.8. Strut mount bolts are flanged M14 and wheel hub are hex head M12.
 

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2005 XC90 2.5T AWD, 219k miles
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A few days ago I replaced both the front driver and passenger struts, strut mounts, and spring seats. The replacement struts came with lower rubber spring seats which are now available for separate purchase, but were not installed in 2005. The driver spring seat was shot, the bushing had separated from the seat and was just being retained by the cruciform nut. Both strut mounts were rusty and rather rough. All replacement parts were OEM.

The ride is quite nice now, very silent while driving. Needs another alignment, so I’ll be looking into one of those “lifetime” deals since I anticipate another one in the spring for the steering components.

I also replaced a crappy aftermarket wheel bearing that lasted only 7 months and 5k. Wheel turned smoothly but there was noticeable play in the bearing. I’m wondering if the part was always bad or if this could result from a bad inner/outer tie rod? I need to focus next on diagnosing if the steering rack needs replacement or just inner/outer tie rods —both have been suggested separately in the service records.

Lastly, I think I resolved the misfire. Replaced fuel injector #4 and it starts and idles much better now. Did this 4 days ago and it’s been happy with all the driving we’ve done since.

After 7 months of work, it’s starting to feel like a “new” car.
 

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“Dew” -- 2004 XC90 T6 in Nautic Blue
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A few days ago I replaced both the front driver and passenger struts, strut mounts, and spring seats.
You got that done just in time! This weather has put my car work plans on hold -- trans shift kit and rear swaybar links will have to wait. I'll have to tap your expertise when I try to do the same job with my struts this summer. Did you have to load the struts yourself or were they assembled w/ springs and the like installed?

I got a pneumatic impact driver for Christmas...should make short work of those subframe bolts if you ever want to attempt that!
 
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2005 XC90 2.5T AWD, 219k miles
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Yeah, the weather a few days ago was as good as it gets for winter car repairs; today, not so much.

I rebuilt them myself using a rented spring compressor from Autozone. It’s super easy work with an impact gun, though I wouldn’t attempt it with a wrench (been there, done that). The original struts were still fine, but I didn’t want to repeat this job in 6-12 months. Rebuilding each strut assembly can be done in under an hour. To me, the time savings using the pre-assembled kits doesn’t overcome the cost premium assuming you have access to the proper tools.

Send me a message when you want to do yours, I’m happy to help.

My Poly-inserts finally arrived on Christmas Eve, so I’ll be looking to lower the rear subframe later this spring. I’ll keep you posted on that one.
 

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Christmas Day project: Moved the control cable for the Cargo Floor handle (Release Handle - Volvo 39998518, $9.54 from Tasca) from the outer connection point to the inner connection point on one of the 2014 XC90's. The outer connection point had failed, likely due to excessive pressure over time. The 2014 XC90 was new-to-me in September.

I pulled the seat out of the car (4x bolts - 13mm socket) so I could work in the warmer workshop. Very happy to avoid buying a new part, but curious about why the part has two places to connect the cable - is it for exactly this purpose? Or perhaps it is re-used in another application?

And yes, I munged the part up a bit before realizing it pops out from the top of the frame, not the bottom or side. Makes sense given it is pulled up. Lessons for next time.
Finger Gas Kitchen utensil Auto part Wood
 
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