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Best $69 I have spent on my car, I don't have to press the auto start/stop button anymore!

I'm debating if I want to try the engine optimization out...


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Ah, I am stupid and didn't realize you needed the VEA hardware adapter to crack the ECM... I thought it was optional instead of doing the crack through the VDASH software..... So, how much does the polestar optimization go for when they have the yearly sale? I'm now looking at almost $600 since I now have to buy the VEA adapter and I already put $279 into my VDASH account....

Anyone happen to already have the adapter? Or want to buy it off me after I use it?

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Decided to install the remote start option, sucks that the parking brake has to be set or else you get a "fuel too low" warning. I might not do through with the engine optimization with the extra cost of the adapter.

I also re-did my alignment with my quicktrick system. It was reading 4/16ths toe in, even though I last set it to 2/16ths toe out?? (Wanted to test a toe out setup) After resetting it to 2/16ths toe in the steering follows road crown a little less and is a hair less twitchy in long corners, as expected.

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Finally got around to swapping out the EVAP leak detection pump on my S60. I had permanent, recurring
  • P2402
  • P043E
DTC since the middle of last year. I began to see these codes after properly installing the TDI signal interruptor, before any modifications were made; can't say that the TDI tune caused the pump failure, but I could image that any modifications will wear out parts and systems faster than a completely stock vehicle. My 2011 had roughly 80K on it when I first saw the DTC cause the CEL to come on.

I followed this post and this YT video; I purchased this pump from FCP Euro without the attached tubes. Can't add much to what's already out there, so I didn't take that many pictures. Just this one:


Want to add a few things for anyone who wants do this on their own that haven't been mentioned elsewhere:
  • hardest parts of this install are prying off those damn Oetiker clamps and trying to figure out which tube goes where
  • there is enough room to buy a pump with the attached hoses and remove the old ones from the vehicle if you are using a two post or a Quickjack, but I didn't bother this time because I was afraid I wouldn't be able to remove them easily
  • wear some sort of eye protection: there is much more soot towards the back of the car compared to the front
  • Make sure these clamps, underneath the passenger-side of the trunk, are attached when you finish:
Note: the connector also presented a challenge: it was easy to remove, and didn't seem to, "click in," to either the old or new pump. Couldn't find anything about this issue online. The pump has a notch where it is supposed to line up with the connector, but it did worry me. Hopefully it doesn't pop out and cause an issue. It was attached to the pump securely when I first removed it.

Both the P2402, P043E and the CEL remained when I reattached the battery because they are permanent codes and would need to be either manually cleared or an entire EVAP check needs to be completed during a single drive cycle (I believe this is how all I/M readiness checks work on OBDII vehicles, someone correct me). So I used my iCarsoft Volvo/Saab scanner to do this.

It has been a week and all I/M readiness checks are, "OK" since I last cleared the DTC. My cheap scanner is reading two EVAP monitors:
  • 0.020"/$0d: "Status" "Pass" with a "Test Value" of 0.000
  • 0.040"/$0b: "Status" "Pass" with a "Test Value" of "0.2psi"
The CEL has not came back on, I don't see any OBDII codes and I don't see any Volvo-specific DTC in either ECU1 ($FD00) or ECU2 ($FD20). However, the OBDII evaporative system leak test fails. Few questions:
  • does this mean that the P2402 and/or the P043E will eventually return?
  • if the P2402 or the P043E never come back, could I possibly fail California or New York emissions?
Hope this helps anyone with the P2402 or the P043E.
I have a 2015 Volvo S60 had the p240a and p240 c codes. I replaced the evap leak detection pump had trouble reattaching the connector. I had to take to Volvo dealer for recalls so I just asked them to do it. They charged me $175 to diagnose my fix said my repair was fine but there is a new code for the thermostat. Told them not to repair. Picked up car my code was still on. Cleared with my $50 scanner but came back on. Did not see any other codes the dealer saw regarding the thermostat repair. Called dealer they said it should clear itself after 5 cold start and drive cycles. Cel is still on and same evap leak codes. I'm taking to another dealer. Do t trust the first dealer. Any ideas what to check to. Lear codes permanently?
 

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DTC codes for the faulty thermostat in 4-cyl Drive-E engines, a fairly common problem in early Drive-E models. These error codes are stored in the ECM, but give no CEL on the dashboard:

 

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Thanks for that info. Even the dealer didn't say that. Is the thermostat replacement doable for a home mechanic? Is there a write up anywhere? I searched YouTube but no luck with videos.
 

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2015 Volvo v60 t6 Rdesign - viva sport exhaust - elevate eCRV
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Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle brake

pretty stocked on the new valve cutout installed on my viva performance sports exhaust . Sounds amazing and looks just as good.
 

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100,000 service, nothing major despite the big number… just an oil change actually since I’d already had the cabin air filter done a couple of months ago when it was in for inspection and to fix (replace) the talk button on the steering wheel which wasn’t springing back into position the way it’s supposed to…

on the drive home from that service visit I encountered a “adaptive cruise unavailable” error for the first time, put it down to bugs on the radar, wiped the sensor at the front and it worked for a couple days then got the message again… gradually deteriorated over the next couple weeks to the point that it was flicking between ”unavailable” and “service required” messages pretty much every minute or two… then actually did some driving at night and noticed that the backlight in the cruise buttons was flickering at the exact time the “unavailable” message was popping up… after about a week of this it stopped coming on altogether, just popping up the unavailable message at start up. I was more able to live without cruise control than I could deal with a weekday off the road for it to be diagnosed/fixed so ignored it until the service was due… described issue to service advisor pointing out that it had started the day they swapped out the audio button set on the other side of the steering wheel… I know coincidences can happen, but…

Sure enough, diagnosis was a loose connector behind the airbag… fixed for $0. Relieved, I guess, but a tad disappointed that my VIP warranty has so far been a total waste of money, while simultaneously hoping it will continue to be.
 

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Thanks for that info. Even the dealer didn't say that. Is the thermostat replacement doable for a home mechanic? Is there a write up anywhere? I searched YouTube but no luck with videos.
Not sure if thermostat can be replaced at home. But driving with a bad thermostat might cause collateral damage in CEM:
 

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Not sure if thermostat can be replaced at home. But driving with a bad thermostat might cause collateral damage in CEM:
Yes unfortunately that is what happened. Needed a new ecm and kept throwing the eval cannister leak code P0240 a and c. The dealership is replaced thermostat, new start stop battery and ecm. $2000 bill.
 

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Sorry to hear it. All too bad that the P0597 thermostat error code gives no warning on the dash.

 

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I’m trying to get my car back on the road today, finally. I’ve been dailying my backup car for the last couple of months, a 1997 Caddy Deville. Today it wouldn’t start and it looks like the starter quit on me, so I have to get my S60 drivable in time for daycare pickup at 4p. My downpipe is on, and now I’m throwing in a full Snabb intake during reassembly. Hopefully I have time to get the firewall and wipers back on before I head out because rain is coming…wish me luck!
 

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I did the engine torque mount arm that's up there by the coolant reservoir. Once my old one was off the car, it didn't look as bad as I expected.

Nevertheless, when I get on the throttle now, the car feels better. Shifts are also smoother.

I bought the Febi version made in Spain, which is supposedly the same as the OEM Part. $43 with free shipping.
 

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Normal maintenance from an unusual circumstance:

Was in the next town over having a nice dinner with the SO last night and surprisingly found the car dead with dim lights at 10PM. I immediately smelt sulfur when I was inspecting the battery terminals, so I knew it was the end of the line for that one. Coincidentally and frustratingly, my driver's side low beam bulb went out too. So I got a jump and drove back home on a bad battery with one headlamp and all accessories turned off. Not the way I intended to end the evening.

First thing today I picked up and installed a new Die Hard Gold T7 800CCA battery, ordered a set of xenon 6000k bulbs and a K&N air filter for the heck of it. I'm more excited about the new bulbs, at least to see the improvement from the OEMs.
 
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