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I have not used the ipd mount, my guess is it's fairly similar to a stock mount with black insert. The first time I torqued the bolt with the black insert I got a lot of vibration, even with the car in drive. I undid it, retighted it most of the way, ran it through the gears, then final torqued it in drive. Seemed to be a lot smoother.

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Maybe I'll swap the black one back in and give it a try. Thanks for the tip!
 

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No problem, after 8 months or so the only real vibration left is in reverse for me.

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Got the Modern Linear wood trim installed. It's a lot with the beechwood, but it looks nice.


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Got the Modern Linear wood trim installed. It's a lot with the beechwood, but it looks nice.


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That looks perfect with the beechwood. How much was it? Where did you get it?

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That looks perfect with the beechwood. How much was it? Where did you get it?

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I got it at Volvo Mall of Georgia because they had a 20% off coupon. I paid just under $640 for the three pieces I got. I am going to order the rear door switch plates and swap them in - I held off because I wasn't sure the wood would look good against the beechwood.

The center stack part number is 31410523.
 

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Man, that is a decent chunk of change for some cosmetic pieces... But I am very tempted. I don't really care for piano black, especially on stuff I touch a lot. My center stack had a lot of micro scratches that look awful when the light hits it.

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Man, that is a decent chunk of change for some cosmetic pieces... But I am very tempted. I don't really care for piano black, especially on stuff I touch a lot. My center stack had a lot of micro scratches that look awful when the light hits it.

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Yes it is a lot of money. I didn't like the stock aluminum stack which is just too plain. I figure that last calendar year I drove 5000 miles so the gas savings paid for the new trim.

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Got my seat belt recall done and some rattling clips in my driver door fixed under the last little bit of warranty I have at 99,500 miles. Also have a clunk in rear but they didn't have time to look at it, so I just did and it's one of my IPD end links, like I suspected. They didn't last long maybe 30k miles. So what's the verdict on RSB Endlinks with the IPD RSB?

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Got the Modern Linear wood trim installed. It's a lot with the beechwood, but it looks nice.
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I second, third or fourth “Perfect.” I’m not exactly fond of the seam, but the wood looks great. I have only seen the glossy wood and didn’t think it would work with Beechwood. I spent a few weeks eyeing interior stylings and ultimately decided to wrap it temporarily. I want the polestar waterfall, but I just can’t pull the trigger on it.




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I second, third or fourth “Perfect.” I’m not exactly fond of the seam, but the wood looks great. I have only seen the glossy wood and didn’t think it would work with Beechwood. I spent a few weeks eyeing interior stylings and ultimately decided to wrap it temporarily. I want the polestar waterfall, but I just can’t pull the trigger on it.




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I am not carbon fiber trim fan. At this point, rather than looking high end, I think it all tends to look like a wrap and feels a bit fast and furious to me. The Polestar is a fast wagon, but it's not as though the carbon fiber is there to keep weight down. so feels a bit silly in my eyes.

I like the seam in the wood. The switches on the doors carry over the angled look.
 

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Matjack and p.rico, thanks for the info. Yeah, I had the front up on stands and both wheels off with the car as level as my garage floor so droop was essentially the same. My "guesstimate" of difference in length was simply connect one end and see if the other end matched up...and they didn't. Although I assumed as long as both end links were the same length, even if a bit longer than what was on the car, it wouldn't matter because, well, they were the same. Just wanted to check before I buttoned everything up. Been a bit hectic so haven't gotten back to it before today so now to drive my car that's been down for a week.
 

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Added the R-Design cross stay in the engine bay; felt like the steering was a little tighter for sure. Super easy to install. Also added the IPD rear sway bar and it made a huge difference in the back of the car around sweeping curves.
 

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Added the R-Design cross stay in the engine bay; felt like the steering was a little tighter for sure. Super easy to install. Also added the IPD rear sway bar and it made a huge difference in the back of the car around sweeping curves.
I have always wondered if these braces do anything on a street car. I had one in my C30 that was a proper, stiff piece that seemed (maybe???) to help some with torque steer. The R-Design brace in my V60 is like a wet noodle by comparison. I can flex the brace with my hand.
 

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Gentlemen, you have to remember that the purpose of a strut brace is to restrict loading parallel to the beam (on a horizontal plane left to right), not perpendicular to the beam cross section (up or down). Therefore the stiffness is the transverse direction is not the operating property.

For instance, the old STi strut brace had a flex link in the center to aid in installation (STI JDM Flexible Strut Tower Brace - Subaru 2.0XT Premium 2014-2018 | SG517SG000|Rallysport Direct). The loading from one strut mount would transfer through the beam and both beam ends would connect and stiffen the top of the vehicle.

The R-Design strut is not the most property integrated, in my opinion being that it is mounted only on one point instead of the three bolts on the strut top. I think that is more so the limitation to the design than the beam thickness.
 
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