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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Similar threads exist in the other forums. I posted a change to the pre-2011+ group under that thread and it was suggested that I post under the "proper" forum.

While I imagine purchasers of older models will be more likely to modify their cars than those of us who buy brand-new, I've already made some changes to mine.

  1. Dealer installed trailer hitch
  2. LED License Plate Lights. First set would overheat, second set, sold as "License Plate Lights" still working fine (better heat handling?).
  3. Corrected dealer-install of trailer controller power -- was pulling off socket on hot side of fuse box instead of fused side. Added per-spec 40A fuse to that socket
  4. Ham radio antenna attached to trunk lid
  5. Ham radio body, CB radio body, and 12V socket installed in trunk, attached to subframe by existing fuse box. CB radio connected to power but not completely hooked up (fuse from lead pulled). Connected to same 40A circuit.
  6. Installed Proclip dash mount for Garmin Nuvi GPS and Ham radio head (display and mic)
  7. Installed 3-socket 12V socket under waterfall, wired into 12V socket in cup holder (wires all run under center console).
  8. Ran 3 CAT-5 cables from trunk to center console -- hidden in wiring tray and under dash. One used to connect Ham radio body and head. Other 2 for spare or something else (like connecting CB radio body and control/mic when I figure out the connections).
  9. Rotated tires around time of my first scheduled factory maint. visit.

I have pictures of all these changes if anyone cares. I posted those in the other forum.

The latest thing I've done to the car is change the oil. In the past I've changed oil in the 3500-5000 mile range (plan 3500, often don't get to until 5000) using semi-synth in non-turbo vehicles. With my model year, Volvo recommends a 7500 mile interval and semi-synth. For the first visit, I upgraded to full synth (and got a rebate for most of it from Casterol).

I just passed 11,000 so was due for an oil change. My steps:
  1. Car up on ramps, in park, parking brake on, back wheels chocked.
  2. Remove plastic/fiberglass cover plate (6 torx screws).
  3. Replace rear cover plate when I realize the engine was forward (6 torx screws)
  4. Remove plastic/fiberglass front cover plate (10 torx screws).
  5. Remove oil-fill cap.
  6. Remove drain plug and let oil drain.
  7. Realize that engine contains more oil than drain pan will hold (was fine for all other family cars).
  8. Replace oil-fill cap and then drain plug.
  9. Empty dran pan, make note to buy bigger one, resume draining oil (repeat #5&6).
  10. Grab sample of draining oil (more about this later).
  11. Wonder why there is no "crush washer" on the drain plug.
  12. Find crush washer on oil pan, remove.
  13. Put new crush washer on drain plug and install.
  14. Worry that you've stripped the drain plug threads when tightening down.
  15. Realize that a crushing crush washer will feel a lot like a stripped thread and that everything is OK.
  16. Remove filter cover with appropriate socket. No need to remove air inlet if you have knuckle and extension.
  17. Swap out internal filter cartridge and replace white-ish O-ring.
  18. Re-install filter cover and tighten down.
  19. Add oil. You did note the appropriate amount before getting your hands dirty, didn't you? (I did)
  20. Start engine, check for any warning lights, check for leaks, rev engine a bit, check for leaks, shut down engine.
  21. Reattach front bottom cover plate.
  22. Remove chocks, pull car off ramps.
  23. Note mileage, clean and put tools away, dispose of trash and used oil responsibly.
  24. Check oil level after a while to let oil drain out of engine galleries. I did this the next morning as it was dark out. Add oil if needed.

I'm sending an oil sample for testing -- if the results show at least 1/2 life left, I'll feel comfortable with the recommended oil change interval. If not, I'll change more frequently. I look at it as cheap insurance to care for my engine.

My previous car (2001 Mercury Sable LS 3.0L DOHC) had 178,000 miles when I got rid of it -- engine was fine. My cousin is driving it now.
 

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Crossed over 3,600 miles :)
 

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Non OEM updates?

LED License Plate Lights (3000k)
Heads up display
Would like to add ambient lighting in footwells and center console armrest bin but just can't seem to get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Non OEM updates?

LED License Plate Lights (3000k)
Heads up display
Would like to add ambient lighting in footwells and center console armrest bin but just can't seem to get to it.
What kind of Heads up display?

What's wrong with the existing lighting?
 

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I made a trip to Puebla on the weekend. First "true" highway trip for my V60. It behaved perfect and it was lovely on the twisties of the highway.

Despite being exhausted on sunday after the loong wedding I went to and the drive back home, I gave it a very well deserved handwash plus a light wax coat. Looks like new right now.
 

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What kind of Heads up display?

What's wrong with the existing lighting?
I'm using the TSA S-200 What's nice about this unit is that it also has an engine temp and volt meter (the other missing gauges from the instrument panel.)

As for lighting. Our Lexus and MB both illuminate the footwells all the time. Bright with an open door and then at a very low level otherwise. I really like being able to see the floor even at night. And the arm rest bin just needs a light. The cup holder bin has one so should the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm using the TSA S-200 What's nice about this unit is that it also has an engine temp and volt meter (the other missing gauges from the instrument panel.)
I've seen that before. I'm using the Garmin ECO HD (plugs into OBD II port) and Garmin Nuvi 23xx for the same purpose. I really like having coolent temperature. The Garmin supports a total of 5 gauges (and over-speed-limit warning is default on the map).

As for lighting. Our Lexus and MB both illuminate the footwells all the time. Bright with an open door and then at a very low level otherwise. I really like being able to see the floor even at night. And the arm rest bin just needs a light. The cup holder bin has one so should the other.
Adding one to the bin may be my next project -- just run it off the cup holder illumination. Thanks for the idea.
 

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I took mine in for the 7500 mile service which happens to coincide with one year of ownership. Since the car came with "nav prep" I figured I'd add the nav system to it at this service. When they told me that it would cost $2200 I passed :).
 

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Did this a couple of weeks back, so hopefully it can still be included in the thread :)

After 15 months of ownership I felt throttle response was getting ever-so-slightly soft. So I had a session of locating all of the jubilee clips on the hoses which carry boost pressure from turbo outlet to intercooler, and intercooler to inlet on my V60 D3 (there are 11 clips, believe it or not).

All of these took at least half a turn, and in some cases a FULL turn of the bolt to snug them down firmly again. I believe this is because Volvo uses soft, flexible hoses which will compress / squish down a little under the clips over time, meaning the clip doesn't grip the hose as tightly.

It doesn't take much for one or more of the 11 joints to start weeping a tiny bit of boost pressure. Overall, this may contribute to lower performance.

Most of the clips were fairly accessible with a 7mm ring spanner (with the odd skinned knuckle / forearm) but there's one right under the sump, which meant raising the front of the car and dropping the undertray so I could get at it. This particular clip was not snug at all and needed quite a bit of tightening.

After doing this, the throttle response was noticeably sharper, and in-gear acceleration (40-60 in 4th, etc) a couple of tenths quicker than before.

This is something I've noticed on ALL my previous turbo cars -- considering that boost pressure is key to performance, most cars rarely leave the production line with ALL the boost pipework properly aligned and fully tightened. In turn, a lot of owners may never realise just how well their car could and should actually perform.
 

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I made a trip to Puebla on the weekend. First "true" highway trip for my V60. It behaved perfect and it was lovely on the twisties of the highway.

Despite being exhausted on sunday after the loong wedding I went to and the drive back home, I gave it a very well deserved handwash plus a light wax coat. Looks like new right now.
Wait, Mexico gets the V60 but we don't, WTF?
 

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Today's updates:

R-Design brushed aluminum mirror covers
Sports pedals.
Both look great, I love them. The mirror covers go very well with the appearance package.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I took mine in for the 7500 mile service which happens to coincide with one year of ownership. Since the car came with "nav prep" I figured I'd add the nav system to it at this service. When they told me that it would cost $2200 I passed :).
I think you can add the Volvo/Garmin portable nav with sound going through the main speakers and voice control through the cell-phone microphone.

I understand the "regular" (built-in) Nav is expensive.
 

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Traveled with friends in the Gateway VCOA to four local junk yards looking for parts to restore their older Volvos.............very interesting!! :)

Here is a photo from one of the yards....

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
We finally had enough snow to make driving interesting. I was able to get out to an area where I could play a bit. In some ways, the traction control and ABS make the car too stable -- I learned to drive with RWD and drum brakes. I turned off stability so I could play a bit -- even without the computer helping the car was very well behaved.

After spending time on snowy and muddy roads, I took my car to a touchless car wash.

No leaks.

I checked. I had the sunroof cover open and felt around as water was being sprayed.

Maybe the local car wash didn't use enough pressure. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
15,000 Mile Service

I had the 15,000 mile service done on Friday with full synth oil. With the rebate I had from the 7,500 mile service, the upgrade cost me <$10 -- plus I got a coupon for another $20 rebate!

Of course they changed the oil filter and cabin air filter. The wiper blades were also replaced as the tech noticed streaking.

Without prompting, sw 31295476-1 (ICM/TCM update according to
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?162153-Sensus-Update/page2 ) was applied. I was not having any problems with harsh downshifts or "hunting".

Sport mode is a little less "sporty". It appears the throttle position was remapped to make the increase less at light throttle. IIRC, I saw a consistent 30% increase in reported throttle position when shifting from Drive to Sport (keeping a steady foot pressure). Now I see about 10% at light throttle and the 30% at higher throttles. That should make it less likely to leap off the line by unintentially.

I had them check the charging system and battery as I was having the "headlight flicker" issue at low RPM (discussed in another thread) and seeing high voltages while driving (on OBD monitor). The system tested normal with "parasitic draw" within limits. I have not seen the charging system warning light, I was just being overly concerned.

Coolant was a touch low in the overflow (warning light came on 2 days ago), no leaks found.

Service time was estimated at 1.5 hours, took about 2 (I waited). During that time I had a nice chat with our salescritter and one of the back-office staff that we know through volunteer activities. The back-office person lost their OSD vehicle from Sandy too (Newark).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Transporting Wood

This photo shows why I really like my car. It handles the utility I need and looks good enough to go to social events in the city.

Carrying home a 2x4 8 foot piece of wood inside the car with the ski door open between the seats. Still room for the passenger.
 

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dhorvath: This update for the ICM/TCM...If I don't have it and am experiencing harsh downshifts and gear hunting, could this cause a check engine light? I'm just under 6000 miles and have my second check engine light in 3 months as of this past Saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
dhorvath: This update for the ICM/TCM...If I don't have it and am experiencing harsh downshifts and gear hunting, could this cause a check engine light? I'm just under 6000 miles and have my second check engine light in 3 months as of this past Saturday.
I really don't know. CEL can be caused by so many different things (including not tightening your gas cap properly); that's one reason I have an OBD reader. I have not gotten any CEL yet in my 15,000 miles. I didn't request the update because, except for the touchy gas pedal in Sport mode, I liked the way the car behaved.

The dealer should be able to help you. Bug them to get explanation of the CEL and resulting codes.

You could also go to an autozone and borrow an OBD reader to get the codes and then google their meaning. Then you can take that information to the dealer and say "X is bad, please fix". Remember, an educated consumer is a smart one!
 
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