[Dave_in_MD]

I found the key to getting your solder to play nice is flux. Put a little soldering flux on the connection before you start to heat and the solder will flow really nicely.
Brett

It flowed nicely once I tinned the tip of my soldering iron. It has been a while since I have done any soldering. Also, for the opposite end I changed my method of mechanical attachment. First, I was going for intermingling the wires and twisting. What worked better was twisting the strands first and then twisting the two wires together and then soldering.
Flux would have been a nice touch but I forgot to get it.

 

[JaredR]

I am amazed people solder without flux

 

[Oliovlov]

It flowed nicely once I tinned the tip of my soldering iron. It has been a while since I have done any soldering. Also, for the opposite end I changed my method of mechanical attachment. First, I was going for intermingling the wires and twisting. What worked better was twisting the strands first and then twisting the two wires together and then soldering.
Flux would have been a nice touch but I forgot to get it.

Doesn’t your solder come with flux core? I don’t think I’ve ever used reg. solder that didn’t have flux core.

I’ve only used hi-temp solder w/o flux.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[SilverStreak177]

So I finally tried changing the bulbs to the Phillips ones I bought. Passenger one changed fine, but the damned driver's side bulb won't unplug. Pulled on it with all my strength, and all I was able to do was have the connector start to break. It seems like it's melted/welded/stuck onto the bulb's prongs, and I won't be able to take it off without destroying the connector.
Before trying to change the bulbs, the driver's side did keep flickering on/off intermittently, but the filament looks perfectly fine. I wonder if it's because of the connector itself, or if something else made the connector melt/get stuck further up the chain.

In any case, I'm now running the new bulb in the passenger side and the old one (Volvo OEM) in the driver's side — new one is slightly whiter, looks brighter, but it's daytime now so I'll report back at night. Then again, I can't report on the overall brightness properly because they're different bulbs on both sides.

Any tips? Cut the old connector off and splice a new one in?
Honestly this is just pushing me closer to jumping on ecode xenons.

 

[tabormeister]

So I finally tried changing the bulbs to the Phillips ones I bought. Passenger one changed fine, but the damned driver's side bulb won't unplug. Pulled on it with all my strength, and all I was able to do was have the connector start to break. It seems like it's melted/welded/stuck onto the bulb's prongs, and I won't be able to take it off without destroying the connector.
Before trying to change the bulbs, the driver's side did keep flickering on/off intermittently, but the filament looks perfectly fine. I wonder if it's because of the connector itself, or if something else made the connector melt/get stuck further up the chain.

In any case, I'm now running the new bulb in the passenger side and the old one (Volvo OEM) in the driver's side — new one is slightly whiter, looks brighter, but it's daytime now so I'll report back at night. Then again, I can't report on the overall brightness properly because they're different bulbs on both sides.

Any tips? Cut the old connector off and splice a new one in?
Honestly this is just pushing me closer to jumping on ecode xenons.

Volvo makes a pigtail for exactly this situation, yes, and it's cheap and quick. Do yourself a favor and get some solder heat shrink connectors! Waterproof and a great connection. Though as someone who has e code ABLs you know what team I'm on

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Donn]

I just finished replacing the (front-engine) subframe bushings on the XC70. Everything went smooth since it’s my second time doing this job. It was slower going when I did the 07 S60 a couple years ago.

 

[TGO]

The seller is trying to recoup the extra $2000 they just spent on the listed repairs. Too many miles for me.

I bought my 2004 with 175K miles for $2100 4 yrs ago.

Primary reason I opted to replace the engine in my XC. I simply could not replace the car for what I paid for it. Even paying an admittedly premium price for the motor + labor to have it installed was still cheaper than trying to find a new car.

 

[TGO]

It flowed nicely once I tinned the tip of my soldering iron. It has been a while since I have done any soldering. Also, for the opposite end I changed my method of mechanical attachment. First, I was going for intermingling the wires and twisting. What worked better was twisting the strands first and then twisting the two wires together and then soldering.
Flux would have been a nice touch but I forgot to get it.

Doesn’t your solder come with flux core? I don’t think I’ve ever used reg. solder that didn’t have flux core.

I’ve only used hi-temp solder w/o flux.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Flux still helps. But for that type of job you should have used crimp connectors and heat shrink. It's just more durable. Not that I would expect any flex/fatigue on a harness behind the dash, but, solder joints are not meant for that type of connection. No OEM manufacturer uses solder on wiring harnesses for that reason.

 

[Dave_in_MD]

Flux still helps. But for that type of job you should have used crimp connectors and heat shrink. It's just more durable. Not that I would expect any flex/fatigue on a harness behind the dash, but, solder joints are not meant for that type of connection. No OEM manufacturer uses solder on wiring harnesses for that reason.

I avoided crimp connections because I thought that for audio I would not get a good enough connection that I would see as line noise.

 

[Exocet]

Primary reason I opted to replace the engine in my XC. I simply could not replace the car for what I paid for it. Even paying an admittedly premium price for the motor + labor to have it installed was still cheaper than trying to find a new car.

As long as it's not rusted out and in good condition, replacing engines/transmissions can be the way to go.

 

[TGO]

I avoided crimp connections because I thought that for audio I would not get a good enough connection that I would see as line noise.

I think line noise has more to do with shielding than anything else. Like I said, I'm sure it's fine but technically a mechanical connection is superior.

As long as it's not rusted out and in good condition, replacing engines/transmissions can be the way to go.

Absolutely. Plus I had replaced a lot of maintenance items recently so aside from the engine at least I knew the rest of the car had no issues. That wouldn't be the case with another car.

 

[Donn]

I flushed my brake lines w/ new DOT 4 and re-installed a backup camera. I apparently broke the last Amazon special by adjusting the lens trying to straighten out the view w/ the pivoting head. This new one is a fixed view.

 

[tabormeister]

Picked up a laminated glass rear left (right was cracked) and a full 40/20/40 xc70 rear seat in off black with blue stitching to go into the R ( need boosters for kiddos and want to swap in off black p3 seats in front)
Grand total.....$88

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

 

[tabormeister]

Side note, there are two tan/oak 3rd row seats at my local pick n pull right now. Anybody looking? I could be persuaded to go back.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Dave_in_MD]

Side note, there are two tan/oak 3rd row seats at my local pick n pull right now. Anybody looking? I could be persuaded to go back.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

Which yard?

 

[Oliovlov]

Picked up a laminated glass rear left (right was cracked) and a full 40/20/40 xc70 rear seat in off black with blue stitching to go into the R ( need boosters for kiddos and want to swap in off black p3 seats in front)
Grand total.....$88

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

Is your current set up the same? If not, there is some welding needed to retrofit 60/40 to 40/20/40.
I got a fridge/warmer for mine (60/40) and wanted to retrofit rear seats to 40/20/40 but my mechanic said they have to weld in a new bracket for it to work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[tabormeister]

Is your current set up the same? If not, there is some welding needed to retrofit 60/40 to 40/20/40.
I got a fridge/warmer for mine (60/40) and wanted to retrofit rear seats to 40/20/40 but my mechanic said they have to weld in a new bracket for it to work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Oh dang, I've currently got 60/40. Will have to take a look and see if it's compatible, I don't see a reason it wouldn't be....

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

 

[tabormeister]

Which yard?

Lkq mt airy

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

 

[zak]

Resealed the oil pump on the T9/R Head build. Did not clean the inside as <42 K miles. It was a bit nerve wracking with the thin green paper gasket, I did resort to a whisper thin coating of RTV around the OD of where the gasket sits.

Hope I did it right as it seemed like the smaller of the two windows in the gasket went at the 6 O'clock position where the protruding pin was . . . . the hole in the gasket was too small for that pin. Didn't pay enough attention on disassembly.

Made sure to use thread sealant on the bolts and torque to 88 inch pbs.

 

[Oliovlov]

Oh dang, I've currently got 60/40. Will have to take a look and see if it's compatible, I don't see a reason it wouldn't be....

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

Needs a bracket that holds the two 40 splits. I believe the middle can be removed to add an accessory.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro