MBC, are you sure you want to install on on this vehicle? I guess you haven't done your research.
ME7 is a torque demand system. The ECU will control boost to generate X amount of torque. Having a MBC will cause the ECU to cut throttle as it will notice there is a problem controlling boost set point. Minimizing throttle angle is how the ECU limits boost in limp mode, you will be limited to 1-2psi to the intake manifold regardless of how tight you have your MBC.
Where did you find this? On earlier Volvo's this may hold true as the ECU will adjust to whatever inputs are present to it, but in ME7 the ECU has more control of the outputs, mainly the ETM (or ETA). You can go ahead and experiment for yourself, but it won't work, only a true tune will increase boost pressure. The only adjustment you can make without throwing the ECU into a fit is wastegate pretension. This increases the onset of boost, and even that is very limited in how much adjustment can be made.
The most recent thing I did to my 2001 XC70 was to disconnect the battery and reset the ECU. Unfortunately, I also lost my HomeLink remote pairing, which I can't seem to get back.
My car has been maxxing at 5 PSI boost for a week or so. I checked all turbo lines and intercooler connections and everything is tight and new. I have a JZW tune, and with the MBC (Ha, I was a bad boy) it was happily pushing 15 PSI max. Until it hit overboost just as Antherzoll warned above and went to limp mode. Pulled out the MBC, and it ran fine, boosting 14 PSI max and 10 PSI on half throttle. great driver. Until last week.
Upon resetting the electronics, and driving a bit, it did respond and started boosting 12 or so. Now it adapted again, back down to 5.
I do have an IPD CBV kit, waiting to install. However, with the 16T turbo in there, fit is so tight I can't even see the CBV to install the kit. Unsure as to how to proceed.
NOT straightforward. The EST rings DO NOT snap in. The diameter is too large for the instrument apertures. So:
Remove instrument binnacle. Do not use VOLVO "bone", but rather a plastic paint scraper (or similar) with a 1 inch width. Prevents marks on dashboard. The clips are tenacious, use some strength and some patience.
Remove clear plastic cover. The bone works fine. Set the cover aside to keep it clean.
Remove the grey instrument surround (9 clips). The bone works fine.
Using 220 grit sandpaper (NOT 100 grit, not emery paper), radius the instrument holes in the grey plastic surround. NO MORE THAN four or five complete sanding rotations is perfect. DO NOT try to sand the aluminum bezels.
Push firmly to install each bezel, but not so hard as to bend the rings.
Reassemble binnacle in reverse.
The quality of the rings is excellent, and they do look great- especially at night.
/stay tuned for installation of EST Touring cat-back exhaust. For south-eastern ON SS guys, a complimentary test drive to hear an installation is included for a limited time :beer:
On a linen cloth, I applied five light coats of the dye to the knob over two days, and a single coat to the boot.
Be very, very careful using this dye. It is PERMANENT, dries near-instantly and is very black. Ensure that you have masked off everything and do not spill a drop on the interior.
REVIEW: Looks great. The dye took nicely to the leather shift knob and brought back some of the leather pattern. Looks far, far better than factory "mushroom grey". The knob and the boot are different grades of leather, as the boot has a blacker, glossier look than the knob, but I expect this to dull down in time.
4. The dyed knob/boot also complement the S60R steering wheel in my car:thumbup:
5. I finished the knob off with a lick of Fiebings "Aussie Leather Conditioner".
/I'm going to do the same treatment to the AT shifter in my 2.4T, get rid of the grey leather handle.