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You sir, will be awesome if you pull this off:

But I am curious how your build will differ from captain bondo's.

AFAIK, his car is running a stock T6 aside from H beam rods.

You might want to consider an HY35 for the smaller compressor housing. It's physically smaller, and might be better suited to your powerband goals. Also have heard a divided manifold would help the spool time as well. On a different car over on turbobricks I saw one gentleman picked up power all over, and decreased spool time just by switching to a divided manifold.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=4327439&postcount=25

Available room might kill that idea though. Thinking about it, it'd probably work just fine. Roll the three cylinders that are already on each bank into each scroll of the turbo. Granted you used the internal wastegate.

I'm curious how that whole project will go. Namely shoehorning the thing in there.

I'd think it'd be easier to get the thing bolted up outside of the car, then put the subframe back in/drop it in the top.
Yea I decided against doing the downpipe and retune for the stock turbo setup. Found that even if I do make some power, which I probably would, I'd rather put to towards making more power in the long term, which is where the previously stated single turbo setup comes in. Not to mention I'd have to get rid of all of that custom downpipe work when I go single turbo and it'll be much more simple. ;)

I have the money to do the transmission rebuild saved up and put aside, just a matter of finding some time to get it all done is all. This car is my daily driver and I'm a full time student so maybe by the time summer comes around I can do that.

As for turbo choice, the HX35 12CMs that I've seen have a divided housings. A divided 12cm spools like an undivided 9cm I've been told. That's why I said I was thinking about getting a quick spool valve, they only work in divided housings :)

Still I think I'll start off with an HE351CW which is undivided to cut down (comes with internal wastegate) on the price and see how the the car as a whole goes single turbo. As you said fitment being one thing I'll need to resolve, but I think I have enough room there for this sized turbo. Maybe after a while of just making sure everything is fine, I can complicate it by changing out for an HX35 12CM (divided housing), external wastegate, with a quick spool valve to drop the spool time and refine the car a bit more. But I want to reduce as many variables as I can with my first steps of this project and just tests the constants. :D

Captain bondo's first build had stock rods and did 390WHP, then he got the H beams and did like 540WHP. Not to mention his car is RWD, greater drivetrain powerloss. If I can get 390WHP out my car with a similar setup I'd be perfectly happy, but as I said 380WHP is the goal even if I find it can potentially do more. For the sake of modesty and reliability. :p
 

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I like your game plan. Looking forward to seeing some progress.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=273717

Comments:

I believe the record is 8.65, on the factory open diff. You'll want to look for a matt m of this place: http://www.stattama.com/ IIRC.
There's the video. Yeah I realize race cars get ripped apart quite a bit, but there are cars running 11's, 10's etc on factory differentials with comparable 60 ft times to other differential options. Point being, stock diff isn't usually a problem. It's tires, weight transfer and lca bushing flex. The only time the open diff will hurt is when trying to accelerate out of corners, which at 3600 lbs, isn't exactly going to end well anyways.

The Quaife diff requires parts from your factory diff or new ones. It might not be compatible with the Volvo setup though. Also, no one actually has stock of them in North America to the best of my knowledge. Quaife wants a group buy of at least 20 units to actually produce them again at the prices you see floating around.
 

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I like your game plan. Looking forward to seeing some progress.
Thanks. Here is a teaser of the initial mockup using a KKK24 turbo from a S60R.



In the final design the manifold has been rotated 180 degrees in order to better accommodate the turbo oil drain and avoid having the down-pipe too close to the engine/water pipe/oil cooler. Also, having the turbo on top makes it easier to route the intake and charge piping plus you don't need to be as concerned with re-clocking the turbo
 

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Going to take a gamble and see if the five cylinder powerflex bushings will fit in a factory trans mount.

Unless someone has tried this and can confirm it doesn't work.
Did this today.

I can confirm the large bushing does indeed fit. Factory bushing is the typical connected at two points bushing that we're used to seeing on these cars be it the control arms or the upper engine mount.

The small bushing is way too small though. The factory bushing is completely solid though. Here's a shot of it.



Even after tearing some of it off, it still fits nice and snug in the bracket.



Rough numbers for outer diameter and bolt size are somewhere around 1 3/16" outer diameter and m12 bolt size for the inner sleeve. Forgot to get the width of the bushing. After using my outer diameter as a baseline, the bushing should be around 1.75" wide. As a result, I think Energy suspension part number 9.9107G or 9.9107R (letter is for the colour) should work.

Shifts are more immediate, downshifts in manual mode are no longer as sudden when coming to a stop and letting the TCM downshift for me. Shifts in general are smoother. Overall I do recommend this for the small cost, but installation wasn't as straight forward as you'd think.

Be warned though, the factory bolt will not work. I had a couple high strength bolts left over from my last car that fit the bill just right. M10 I believe, compared to the M12 factory bolt. Length is the same as the factory bolt. I can measure another one if anyone is interested. If you wanted the exact bolt, I believe any GM with a 3800 engine dated 95 and up will have at least two, if not four of these bolts and nuts holding the upper engine dog bone mounts in place. There should be plenty of those cars at your local auto wreckers. 15 mm socket and wrench will get them off. Also note the outer plastic sleeve must be left in place else the bushing won't stay in place. My factory bushing was not worn out at all surprisingly. I had to press it partially out to be able to start cutting it before it finally popped out. Also the hole is oblong, the bushing is not. It makes for an interesting installation. Never took a shot of the bushing in the mount or in the car, but you can catch a glance of it in the video down below.

Onto the fun part, been losing some oil. Fixed the oil flame trap seals a while back and that area is still dry.

Here's the skid plate:



Evidence of a big rear leak and a small front one near the transmission.

So I took a short video. First you'll see me rocking the tie rods, getting a bit of knock out of them, unsure if normal or not as I'm rotating them, not moving up and down. Up and down they're solid, so are the sway bar end links. Both sides make this noise, yet I'm only getting noise out of the passenger side when driving over speed bumps or potholes or generally rough roads. The upper strut mounts seem to pass the spin test I've seen suggested elsewhere on here.

http://s1343.photobucket.com/user/slowcarsguy/media/video-2013-03-31-15-09-05_zps917c7633.mp4.html

The oil leak on the rear looks to me like its the seals between the oil cooler and the block. The oil drain line seals for the turbos are moist, but there isn't any evidence to support that the leak is trailing from them down to the cooler in this quantity. Also note there are two scoops and a sort of air guide build into the skid plate to direct oil over this cooler which might explain how oil is further up on the cv shaft hanger bearing and so on.

The big question is, what can leak from behind the starter? Or is this a rear main seal leak?

I'll clean it up and check in a couple days and see I can make anymore sense out of it, but for now the leak on the back is my main focus.

Looking at this: http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s...ar=2001&ukey_category=7865&ukey_driveLine=495

Might be number 2.

Thanks. Here is a teaser of the initial mockup using a KKK24 turbo from a S60R.



In the final design the manifold has been rotated 180 degrees in order to better accommodate the turbo oil drain and avoid having the down-pipe too close to the engine/water pipe/oil cooler. Also, having the turbo on top makes it easier to route the intake and charge piping plus you don't need to be as concerned with re-clocking the turbo
I was under the impression the factory manifolds were quite undersized. Is there any truth to that? Other than that, it seems like a solid plan.
 

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Have you been following the "single turboing s80t6" thread on turbobricks? There's some nuggets of information in there for you.
Thanks, now I am. I'll read through it soon, I've been busy with classes and work stuff. :)

I like your game plan. Looking forward to seeing some progress.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=273717

Comments:

I believe the record is 8.65, on the factory open diff. You'll want to look for a matt m of this place: http://www.stattama.com/ IIRC.
There's the video. Yeah I realize race cars get ripped apart quite a bit, but there are cars running 11's, 10's etc on factory differentials with comparable 60 ft times to other differential options. Point being, stock diff isn't usually a problem. It's tires, weight transfer and lca bushing flex. The only time the open diff will hurt is when trying to accelerate out of corners, which at 3600 lbs, isn't exactly going to end well anyways.

The Quaife diff requires parts from your factory diff or new ones. It might not be compatible with the Volvo setup though. Also, no one actually has stock of them in North America to the best of my knowledge. Quaife wants a group buy of at least 20 units to actually produce them again at the prices you see floating around.
Thanks!

Yea I figured stock diff would be fine. I'm not aiming for a fast drag car, I want something that'll haul ass on the freeway and around town. Between 40 and 120 mph is where all the fun happens for me. And I mean even at 3550lbs, with these Michelin Pilot Super Sports that I'm running it actually make the car handle pretty damn well for what it is. It was a night and day difference after I got these tires. I was actually leading my friends 350Z around a tight ~10 mile canyon road by my home, and there were stretches (maybe I was a bit more ballsy but) I was easily able to maintain a nice gap. I do have some kart racing experience so that helps, but still. He told me he was going 10/10ths the whole time too afterwards. There is a complex of a few downhill hairpins back to back and it's bumpy too, that's where my front shocks being on their last legs really showed and he was able to close back the gap in with his shorter wheelbase nimble sports car. I think the gobbs of bottom end torque really helped me too coming out of some of the lower speed uphill corners though.

All in all I really love these cars, and people that just write them off as bad cars because of some silly transmission issues are just full of it. For the prices these cars go for, even with a transmission rebuild you're still paying quite a bit less than a comparable Merc or BMW yet have boat loads more potential and have character. Something those cold post 2000 German cars lack. Not to mention those cars are even higher maintenance and have more electrical issues to boot, and parts cost an arm and a leg. Volvo. <3
 

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At any point did you find there was too much flex in the rear?

All of the rear control arms look like stamped steel and could easily be boxed to stiffen them up. There's around $500 in poly bushings that could go back there as well.

http://www.vivaperformance.com/polyurethane-bushings-s60-v70-awd/

A number of those bushings share volvo part numbers for the rear.

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s...model=12010&modelYear=2002&ukey_category=7890

Only number 9 has a different part number.

I think the best part of writing off the S80 is any P2 can exhibit oil leaks, suspension issues, and electrical module failure.
 

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At any point did you find there was too much flex in the rear?

All of the rear control arms look like stamped steel and could easily be boxed to stiffen them up. There's around $500 in poly bushings that could go back there as well.

http://www.vivaperformance.com/polyurethane-bushings-s60-v70-awd/

A number of those bushings share volvo part numbers for the rear.

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s...model=12010&modelYear=2002&ukey_category=7890

Only number 9 has a different part number.

I think the best part of writing off the S80 is any P2 can exhibit oil leaks, suspension issues, and electrical module failure.
Yea there is quite a bit of movement at the rear of the car, it's really noticeable now that I got the IPD Strut Bar Conversion and the front is stiffer.

They also have these chassis braces.

http://www.vivaperformance.com/lower-rear-brace-s60-v70-s80-fwd/

http://www.vivaperformance.com/rear-chassis-brace-s80-classic/
 

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Bought a week ago $1000 under KBB fair, with 185,XXX miles. Had S60 parts car (my previous daily). This is my 3rd volvo project.

  • Fixed turbo wastegate lever. This cleared check engine light.
  • Did PCV oiltrap + cleanout.
  • Replaced alternator for lower mileage one (old one still worked but was noisy, new one from S60 which has only 100k on it)
  • Replaced accessory belt for one with less cracks (1 versus 20+) and tensioner pulley for one with ~10,000 miles on it. (both from S60)
  • Tightened up power steering hose clamps and topped off fluid.
  • Cleaned engine bay and interior (headliner had coffee all over).
  • Oil change with oem volvo filter and castrol 5w30+bottle of autorx
  • Fabricated hanger for muffler.
  • Adjusted and recalibrated Bi-Xenons.
  • Adjusted, lubed headlamp wipers and put new blades. (blades from S60)
  • New bulbs in rear sidemarkers.
  • Disassembled Climate Control Module, fixed broken temp sensor, removed+cleaned buttons. (temp sensor from S60)
  • Installed new Volvo spark plugs and tossed the NGK iridiums that were in there.
  • Two used tires from ebay in the front that match the rear. (NANKANG TOUR SPORT-611, 225/50/17)
  • Two new front outer tie rods. (MOOG's from the S60)
  • DIY 4 wheel alignment using string, Two 8ft 2x4's and tape measure.
  • Passed state inspection.
  • Etc,etc..something else im forgetting.

All within a (the last) week. Car has 186,000 miles now. Only spent about 180 on parts. (tires + spark plugs + oil trap + intake mani gasket + oil + bulbs) The rest I got from the S60 or had laying around.

Now its all waxed up and safe to drive.





 

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And so it beings...
 

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...and the friction disc set, is it included? Are is a second overhaul kit also needed?
 

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Bought a week ago $1000 under KBB fair, with 185,XXX miles. Had S60 parts car (my previous daily). This is my 3rd volvo project.

  • Fixed turbo wastegate lever. This cleared check engine light.
  • Did PCV oiltrap + cleanout.
  • Replaced alternator for lower mileage one (old one still worked but was noisy, new one from S60 which has only 100k on it)
  • Replaced accessory belt for one with less cracks (1 versus 20+) and tensioner pulley for one with ~10,000 miles on it. (both from S60)
  • Tightened up power steering hose clamps and topped off fluid.
  • Cleaned engine bay and interior (headliner had coffee all over).
  • Oil change with oem volvo filter and castrol 5w30+bottle of autorx
  • Fabricated hanger for muffler.
  • Adjusted and recalibrated Bi-Xenons.
  • Adjusted, lubed headlamp wipers and put new blades. (blades from S60)
  • New bulbs in rear sidemarkers.
  • Disassembled Climate Control Module, fixed broken temp sensor, removed+cleaned buttons. (temp sensor from S60)
  • Installed new Volvo spark plugs and tossed the NGK iridiums that were in there.
  • Two used tires from ebay in the front that match the rear. (NANKANG TOUR SPORT-611, 225/50/17)
  • Two new front outer tie rods. (MOOG's from the S60)
  • DIY 4 wheel alignment using string, Two 8ft 2x4's and tape measure.
  • Passed state inspection.
  • Etc,etc..something else im forgetting.

All within a (the last) week. Car has 186,000 miles now. Only spent about 180 on parts. (tires + spark plugs + oil trap + intake mani gasket + oil + bulbs) The rest I got from the S60 or had laying around.

Now its all waxed up and safe to drive.





damnn thats lots of good maintenance. How about some interior pics??? also how come no fogs..even when equipped with HIDs..weird
 

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Yeah no fogs, i'll have to wire some up at some point...like i did on my S60.

Interior isn't that pretty, just imagine volvo winter floor mats with lightly cracked leather seats :p

Anyway, I messed up a little spot on my hood last night trying to buff out some tree sap... broke through the clear, had a hard time sleeping last night, but you live you learn and move along, today I mocked this up.



Thinking to do with some 3M gloss black vinyl (or something metallic) from ebay.

Bottom molding isnt that thick but the part number is 9190246, $40 ? Or garage door seal might work.

Really I'd like to find the valance from this picture, but there is probably a whole body kit to go with it.



Thoughts?
 

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The fun that is.

Will you be removing it yourself or paying a shop to do the complete job?
Indeed!

Paying a shop for the complete job. I don't have the equipment to pull it out nor the means to transport.

...and the friction disc set, is it included? Are is a second overhaul kit also needed?
It's a complete kit.

http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.c...te-Kit-1999-2002-Volvo-4T65EV-GT-CK9902HP.htm

Master Kit with Borg Warner frictions for 1999-2002 model years
2 Oversized 2nd steel plates for improved clearance and shift feel
Side cover gasket
US made filter
Transgo SK4T65E shift kit, additional notes included
Sonnax TCC apply valve
Sonnax TCC relief valve
Sonnax performance ratio boost valve kit
New valve body spacer plate, modified per application
Bushing kit
Thrust Washer kit
New 4th clutch hub and shaft with heat treated splines
Stator support bearing
Input drum to sun gear bearing
Lube dam
Forward apply band, High Energy
2-1 Coast band, High Energy
Reconditioned Input clutch apply piston
Borg Warner Pressure Control solenoid
Borg Warner TCC solenoid
OE shift solenoids x 2
 

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found it on imcdb.org

They got database of cars in every movie.

The only body kit i could find has to come from Latvia and its not the one in that pic

http://royalmarket.co.uk/show.php?i=173

i settled on a bushed titanium racing stripe down the middle with possibly a bushed aluminum stripe off to the side.

got a 12"x60" roll on the way ($17!), i chose it because there is a hint of green

aiming for something like this.





with leftovers i could do some of the interior..

keep in mind this car has nearly 200k miles so a paintjob isnt worth it to me also this should help rid of the grandpa look

later in the summer i might dip it to something close to polestar blue (swedish racing green)

 

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found it on imcdb.org

They got database of cars in every movie.

The only body kit i could find has to come from Latvia and its not the one in that pic

http://royalmarket.co.uk/show.php?i=173

i settled on a bushed titanium racing stripe down the middle with possibly a bushed aluminum stripe off to the side.

got a 12"x60" roll on the way ($17!), i chose it because there is a hint of green

aiming for something like this.


While the first IMCDB front lip you showed originally looks simple and elegant I don't really like the rest of what you linked. Why would you do that? I mean it's your car and do what you want, but from my point of view that just looks really cheap and tacky.
 

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i know i hate doing it, im just trying it on the hood to hide my handiwork and protect the paint... everytime it catches my eye it pains me

if i like it ill do the whole car, it wont be so cheap then :p

trick is getting the color right and spread it around the rest of car. rear spoiler and some foglights for adding some aggressiveness. something has to be done about the wheels too. should see what theyre doing in the S60 forums and to me this is just a bigger S60

rest of the stuff


also it sets me apart from the rest. i only drive for leisure at the moment. none of it is permanent.:)
 

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I don't mind patina, but maybe that's just me, it's all battle scars to me. Adds character. :)

I have some spots where the clear is gone too, I have scratches here and there, a small dent where some idiot opened his door on my fender, but I just rock it. Focusing on go-fast bits instead. :p
 
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