[pizza_nightmare]

Assuming you're not the original owner, it might of been oil leaked at one time from the old faulty valve cover gasket which probably was replaced by the previous owner. The red goo looks like some sealant used on the gasket

wow thanks for the quick reply! I am the second owner. I am not sure if the valve cover gasket was done by the previous owner. Fingers crossed!

 

[olausson.victor]

Swapped in new trunk gas springs, right rear shock top collar, did an oil+filter change and put it on it's studded winters.

 

[80sGuy]

I've been busy!! Today I replaced my rear shocks and springs, but this is the last to-do on my very loooong list of things that were necessary after I bought my used P1 S40 T5 AWD M66. It's high miles but I want to make it last and I'm hoping with the work I put in that it will last me a while. It just hit 177,000 miles on my trip to pick up a part yesterday.

I couldn't have done all this without the good people here on the forum. This car was a diamond in the rough. Clean interior but lots of postponed maintenance. It's running great now!

In the last month, I have..

• Overhauled the cooling system - replaced all radiator hoses, coolant tank, temperature sensor, and thermostat assembly
• Replaced timing belt
• Replaced water pump
• Replaced AC belt aka accessory drive belt
• Replaced all engine mounts
• Replaced engine seals and camshaft seals
• Replaced cabin air filter
• Entire front suspension - front struts, upper mounts, control arms, bearings, sway bar links
• Refurbish headlight assembly lenses to get rid of the "haze"
• Replace headlights, brights, foglights, and all taillights
• Upgrade stick shift lever and hand brake with real leather boot covers
• All new tires
• Replaced cracked windshield
• Overhauled stereo with the help of Import Sauce.. Added aux, bluetooth, and Qi wireless charging phone holder
• Replaced waterfall with the brushed aluminum look
• Replaced stick shift knob with brushed aluminum knob
• Upgraded all interior lights and puddle lights to LED
• Added a tow hitch
• Replaced trunk wiring harness
• .. and finally today I did the rear suspension - shocks, upper mounts, bellows, bump rubber, and springs (springs are way too expensive!)

And a nice finish! All new springs and shocks.

And now I'm laying on the couch with these knuckleheads taking a well deserved break. Phew!
View attachment 164480

View attachment 164481

Wow, you've done all that yourself?
How was the timing-belt job, was it hard at all? I'm about to tackle it any time soon now at 120K. Planning to do it between 120-125K.

 

[avenger09123]

Wow, you've done all that yourself?
How was the timing-belt job, was it hard at all? I'm about to tackle it any time soon now at 120K. Planning to do it between 120-125K.

• TB job wasn't bad, I did mine 10k ago. I would recommend you get some liquid paper (whiteout) and mark 2 lines on each gear+belt position (cam, cam and crank) so you can reassemble correctly, timing marks aligned or not.
• I would recommend you get new plastic caging for it and seals etc, but that's me.
  • Mine was stiff, but not brittle, meaning it didn't want to snap perfectly together again.
  • Follow the guides on here to set the TB tensioner - torque bolt to like 5 ftlbs and then use the allen key to set and then torque to spec.
• I put in a lightweight crank pulley from these guys S40 Engine Parts
  • I had mine anodized by a local shop before I put it in.
  • Can get colors or toughness, up to you.
  • I can feel all 5 cylinder strokes at idle now, which is entertaining.
• I did new right side/left side mounts LAST.
  • You need the flexibility of the old mounts to raise/lower the engine to get maximum movement. I was able to get a torque wrench on it by doing this and torque everything to spec.
  • I converted back to the square trans mount because
  • I got the hard poly inserts for both from Powerflex.
    • Pay attention if you get the pendulum mount insert. The part that rides the outer brace likes to not insert correctly into the bottom part. Just a flathead and patience and it'll go in. It will prevent it from going bad as soon as they do since it limits movement to near zero and supports the bottom of it so it can't sink as easy.
  • There are two Powerflex inserts for the trans side if you have the square side. One of them is a two piece, one of them is a single piece - the two piece fits the best.
  • The center bolts between the round vs square trans mounts are different, so order both so you get the right one. I still have the round trans shift arm on it so it won't cause any fitment issues - just changed the trans mount arm back to the square arm so it fit correctly
  • Obv Do 1 mount at a time - a free floating assembly sucks to reassemble with
  • Get new bolts for the Pendulum <-> block connection as they are TTY.
  • Ensure you put wood and the jack on the pan closer to either side so you can take advantage of the strength of that corner and extra wall of the pan.
• Would recommend a solid aluminum torque mount but that's me since you do have to disconnect it anyways to raise/lower the engine for the room for the TB.
• I did new tensioners and belts.

My car shakes at idle especially when cold but driving it is an absolute pleasure, especially when warm.

Today I did a brake flush, put the winter wheels on, and got a car wash.

 

[80sGuy]

• TB job wasn't bad, I did mine 10k ago. I would recommend you get some liquid paper (whiteout) and mark 2 lines on each gear+belt position (cam, cam and crank) so you can reassemble correctly, timing marks aligned or not.
• I would recommend you get new plastic caging for it and seals etc, but that's me.
  • Mine was stiff, but not brittle, meaning it didn't want to snap perfectly together again.
  • Follow the guides on here to set the TB tensioner - torque bolt to like 5 ftlbs and then use the allen key to set and then torque to spec.
• I put in a lightweight crank pulley from these guys S40 Engine Parts
  • I had mine anodized by a local shop before I put it in.
  • Can get colors or toughness, up to you.
  • I can feel all 5 cylinder strokes at idle now, which is entertaining.
• I did new right side/left side mounts LAST.
  • You need the flexibility of the old mounts to raise/lower the engine to get maximum movement. I was able to get a torque wrench on it by doing this and torque everything to spec.
  • I converted back to the square trans mount because
  • I got the hard poly inserts for both from Powerflex.
    • Pay attention if you get the pendulum mount insert. The part that rides the outer brace likes to not insert correctly into the bottom part. Just a flathead and patience and it'll go in. It will prevent it from going bad as soon as they do since it limits movement to near zero and supports the bottom of it so it can't sink as easy.
  • There are two Powerflex inserts for the trans side if you have the square side. One of them is a two piece, one of them is a single piece - the two piece fits the best.
  • The center bolts between the round vs square trans mounts are different, so order both so you get the right one. I still have the round trans shift arm on it so it won't cause any fitment issues - just changed the trans mount arm back to the square arm so it fit correctly
  • Obv Do 1 mount at a time - a free floating assembly sucks to reassemble with
  • Get new bolts for the Pendulum <-> block connection as they are TTY.
  • Ensure you put wood and the jack on the pan closer to either side so you can take advantage of the strength of that corner and extra wall of the pan.
• Would recommend a solid aluminum torque mount but that's me since you do have to disconnect it anyways to raise/lower the engine for the room for the TB.
• I did new tensioners and belts.

My car shakes at idle especially when cold but driving it is an absolute pleasure, especially when warm.

Today I did a brake flush, put the winter wheels on, and got a car wash.

That's awesome tips! I probably wouldn't do as much. What is 'plastic caging'? The Timing Belt and Tensioner are first priority and probably the engine mounts and both drive belt tensioners - both aux belts were replaced a year ago at 12K when I re-shimmed the AC. All parts would be Geniune Volvo to avoid headaches.

 

[avenger09123]

By plastic caging I mean the plastic backing and front covers for the TB area. The stuff that keeps dirt and shizz out of the timing belt area.
I understand most people probably wouldn't do as much. For me I chose to make sure I would have to work on this car the least amount possible in the future. That meant putting everything in together in one go to last as long as possible before it needed to be replaced again. That was my only goal. With 240k on the clock, I had heard about this starting to cause issues on harmonic dampeners beginning to debond the outer ring from the rubber and hence the upgrade to a lightweight single piece crank pulley.

 

[EngTech]

Keeping ready to Change Trans Oil on 1 of New 10X Transmissions - should be Interesting

 

[EngTech]

Such as this Screen Grab : ./.
Talking about Gray Main Feed into Back or Black Sq. - next to - Green Sq. If Loose Wires in Black Sq. that Looks to be Very Doable . .

 

[ThomasR]

Today I managed to lock my keys in my car. Luckily I had my moonroof tilted up.

After googling how to unlock a car and realizing that the shoelace method wasn't going to work I thought why not take a long rod and try to hit the unlock button. I have some giant gardening plant stakes that are like 6' long. So I stood on the drivers side looking through those windows, feed the rod in between the moonroof gap and tried to get at the controls on the passengers door. I tried jamming the unlock button and it didn't work. Not sure if it was the plastic stake flexing or if the electronics were shut off. I tried to press the window switch and it didn't work either. So they I got the duck tape and string out and put a little loop on the end of the rod to try to loop around the door handle and pull it open. I gave up on that after about 20 seconds and just jammed the rod behind the latch. And I was able to rotate the rod towards the passengers side which was leverage the handle enough to unlock the door. Walked over to the passenger side, unlocked the door, and I only had to hear the alarm go off for 2 seconds.

Wasn't bad actually.

 

[Swede40]

Today I managed to lock my keys in my car. Luckily I had my moonroof tilted up.

After googling how to unlock a car and realizing that the shoelace method wasn't going to work I thought why not take a long rod and try to hit the unlock button. I have some giant gardening plant stakes that are like 6' long. So I stood on the drivers side looking through those windows, feed the rod in between the moonroof gap and tried to get at the controls on the passengers door. I tried jamming the unlock button and it didn't work. Not sure if it was the plastic stake flexing or if the electronics were shut off. I tried to press the window switch and it didn't work either. So they I got the duck tape and string out and put a little loop on the end of the rod to try to loop around the door handle and pull it open. I gave up on that after about 20 seconds and just jammed the rod behind the latch. And I was able to rotate the rod towards the passengers side which was leverage the handle enough to unlock the door. Walked over to the passenger side, unlocked the door, and I only had to hear the alarm go off for 2 seconds.

Wasn't bad actually.

Nice and creative! I only have one key also locked it in the car in my garage. I was getting out and instinctively got the lock button and closed the door. Of course all the windows were closed but I was able to get a coat hanger between the gap in the door jamb. However, by the time I reached the door handle or lock it was just not strong and rigid enough to do anything. It seemed that to be flexible enough to get through the gap in the door or window it couldn't be rigid enough to work. I gave up and called a local locksmith who was awesome. Took 15 minutes to show up on a Sunday and charged $90 to pop the lock in 3 minutes.

I want to note that the next week after popping the lock and setting odd the alarm, my key wouldn't turn over the ignition. It was some sort of security feature that was enabled and not disabling. Watch out for that. When it happened to me I had to fiddle with how I started the car to get the ignition to work again. After a few times starting the car it never had the problem again.

 

[avenger09123]

Flushed the clutch today. Was surprisingly easy, and I am quite shocked how far you have to unscrew the clutch slave to get it to push fluid out.
Some 3/16" ID line snug over the nipple worked out well. I used a syringe from my last windshield repair to put a vacuum on the line and fill it with brake fluid to prevent that initial crack open from letting any air in. Worked out well. TBH I don't think you need two people for this job if you're willing to do a bunch of up and down and prefill the line, but the second person does help if you want to get it done a bit faster.
Fluid came out reasonably dirty, SOME black but mostly brown - to be expected for 130k with no flushing. Here's to another 120k with no issues.

 

[ThomasR]

Just completed my pre-winter oil change. It was supposed to warm up to 50 today but was sub-40 before 4pm when I was working.

I decided to do the splashguard inserts as I've managed to lose a couple of the screws before and do a torque mount. The Hutchinson mount was trashed in 15k miles. I looked it up and I bought it in October 2019 so it made it 15k, not 10 like I thought when I pulled it out so I got that goin for me which is nice.

It was easy pry out the old splashguard inserts with a flathead. I had to use the rubber mallet to tap in the 2 new rear ones. I think I'd lost the screws in the non-replacable inserts. I don't know what those little metal inserts are called. But I could feel the added resistance when I put in the new screws so it is worth it.

So this annoys me. FCP sells a replacement kit but the screws it comes with are different than the actual splash pan screws. I only bought 2 screws even though the kit includes 5 but the car actually needs 7. I first noticed that the washers were smaller (16mm instead of 20) but when the torx was smaller than the standard T27 I was like nope, not going to go through the annoyce of having one that's a different size. First I thought they'd sent me the wrong screws, turns out they're kind of selling the wrong screws in the kit.

 

[Sumfuncomet]

Took all the empty cups etc off the floors and from console…….I swear it’s a little faster!

 

[Redknife]

Just completed my pre-winter oil change. It was supposed to warm up to 50 today but was sub-40 before 4pm when I was working.

I decided to do the splashguard inserts as I've managed to lose a couple of the screws before and do a torque mount. The Hutchinson mount was trashed in 15k miles. I looked it up and I bought it in October 2019 so it made it 15k, not 10 like I thought when I pulled it out so I got that goin for me which is nice.

It was easy pry out the old splashguard inserts with a flathead. I had to use the rubber mallet to tap in the 2 new rear ones. I think I'd lost the screws in the non-replacable inserts. I don't know what those little metal inserts are called. But I could feel the added resistance when I put in the new screws so it is worth it.

So this annoys me. FCP sells a replacement kit but the screws it comes with are different than the actual splash pan screws. I only bought 2 screws even though the kit includes 5 but the car actually needs 7. I first noticed that the washers were smaller (16mm instead of 20) but when the torx was smaller than the standard T27 I was like nope, not going to go through the annoyce of having one that's a different size. First I thought they'd sent me the wrong screws, turns out they're kind of selling the wrong screws in the kit.

Yeah I noticed the same about the FCP splash guard kit. Had to piece together orders (from a couple vendors IIRC) to get the right inserts and screws.

 

[Swede40]

Rotors, brakes, and a brake fluid flush! I'm a big fan now of the power brake fluid flush and the little bottle with the hose to catch the brake fluid when it's bled. I went with the Zimmerman rotors and Akebono brake pads in the kit from FCP Euro.

I also took a die grinder with steel pads to blast off all the old rust and debris from the wheel hub, caliper, and entire area to clean it up. I was tempted to paint the rotors but had enough on my plate for the day.

Also got a ski rack up for Colorado ski season! It's the OEM Volvo which I really like. Got a nice deal on eBay and then bought Thule lock tumblers off of Amazon so I have a single key for the rack and cross bars.

I'm still troubleshooting a squeal/whining noise during acceleration. I found a loose bolt on the exhaust manifold so that is my new theory. Looking forward to seeing if thay fixes it.

 

[sklooner]

Laid under the car for 90 minutes at 0 changing the TCV and the boost issue returned !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

 

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

 

[haoef]

Washing and oiling do88 air filter. I'm happy with the trouble free performance of do88 cold air intake after two years of use. MAF isn't covered in oil.

 

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]