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I ordered a full set of Delphi coils and E3 plugs today as well, we'll see who's coils last longer. I don't drive hard but the car lives at 3000rpm (80mph) or so on the interstate daily and there are some hills it has to climb, so boost does come into play.

Checked fuel trims while driving to work this morning. It sits at a steady -1 to -3%, which is consistent with my altitude (6500-5500ft along the trip). When throttle-off, jumps to -7% and then settles quickly back down to -1 and -3%. I am wondering if injectors need to be changed at this point with 228k on them (will be 237k when I do the big service). When I run a can of seafoam through the fuel system, I usually get a code for a rich mixture (used to handle it just fine), which to me indicates that they are beginning to spray poorly. They don't leak when pressure builds (they only lose 0.5psi every 15-30 secs when the fuel pump is shut off)
I need to check my injectors too, car has around 182k on it. I’m guessing they aren’t spraying perfectly either.

I typically drive pretty easy but with the stage 2 tune sometimes it’s hard not to rip into it.


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Just took possesion back of my « baby R » this afternoon and drove back home.

The Hybrid K24 with 7+7 has been installed with the costum manifold and the external wastegate.

Even with no tune without boost just the feeling of that m66 on coilover was a benediction (it has been long time!)

By the way! I just learned that it wasnt a manifold bolt that went wrong (exhaust leak) but instead my 2 years Becker downpipe who had a weakness on flange. The wrost of it is that i was aware of that weakness since 2 years cuz i did ceramic coat it back in that time and the guy sent me a picture of the crack in the flange after he sunblasted it. I should have make a reclaim to that ebay seller.....

Anyway

Hilton sent me the base stage 3 tune so i can flash it soon.

I am waiting for that dice cable... to flash it and dyno run it. My mech will finish the S4 mass airflow upgrade with the 650 bosh injector and the IP coilpack next week so we can flash and fine tune it on the dyno just after


So i just cleaned it and took a picture just feel so good to have her back (since september 2020)









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These expensive coilpack do they do something??




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These expensive coilpack do they do something??




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That is a $1000 coil pack set from Ignition Projects.
 

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2005 V50 T5 AWD M66
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Yesterday i've started the head gasket change. Today i was at the point where i could losen the head bolts and broke 3 tools. A Stahlwille 3/8 to 1/4 adapter, a rather cheap 14mm socket and my 14mm deep socket for plugs.
Went to buy 5 new 14mm sockets but managed to get the last 5 head bolts lose with just one.

130680


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I ordered a full set of Delphi coils and E3 plugs today as well, we'll see who's coils last longer. I don't drive hard but the car lives at 3000rpm (80mph) or so on the interstate daily and there are some hills it has to climb, so boost does come into play.

Checked fuel trims while driving to work this morning. It sits at a steady -1 to -3%, which is consistent with my altitude (6500-5500ft along the trip). When throttle-off, jumps to -7% and then settles quickly back down to -1 and -3%. I am wondering if injectors need to be changed at this point with 228k on them (will be 237k when I do the big service). When I run a can of seafoam through the fuel system, I usually get a code for a rich mixture (used to handle it just fine), which to me indicates that they are beginning to spray poorly. They don't leak when pressure builds (they only lose 0.5psi every 15-30 secs when the fuel pump is shut off)
What's seafoam?

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What's seafoam?

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It’s a fuel system cleaner you can buy at the auto parts stores.

Also works to clean oil systems etc although I think using it for that is a little more involved.


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Not really… for fuel you add one bottle to the tank, fill it and drive it, for oil add 1 oz per quart a couple hundred miles before changing the oil… it’s also recommended for cleaning the injectors… that does involve a bit more work…

not sure whether it actually does any good, but it is plausible that it might, not expensive and doesn’t seem to do any harm
 

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Not really… for fuel you add one bottle to the tank, fill it and drive it, for oil add 1 oz per quart a couple hundred miles before changing the oil… it’s also recommended for cleaning the injectors… that does involve a bit more work…

not sure whether it actually does any good, but it is plausible that it might, not expensive and doesn’t seem to do any harm
I’ve always heard that using good quality fuels (Top Tier gas) already has cleaners in it, although they likely don’t clean as deep as Seafoam.


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it’s a religion-type thing: if you believe it works then it does ;)
 

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it’s a religion-type thing: if you believe it works then it does ;)
I believe this assessment is incorrect regarding seafoam. I used to to clean 2mm of solid carbon off my harley pistons, intake valves and head crowns by soaking each in Seafoam. After two days to a week, it was soft enough on all areas to scrape off with a fingernail. It works decently for removing carbon and varnish, the minor buildup that happens with good quality gasoline and good quality oil. It's not as good as a dedicated cleaner, but it's burnable with gasoline and doesn't do harsh cleaner damage to your system if combined with fuel and oil. The other advice is solid, about 200-300mi before your oil change, add 1oz per qt of oil and send it. You'll find the oil becomes much blacker during this time vs a normal dark brown change. It doesn't do anything bad while cleaning metal, however it will potentially impact non-Viton lined rubber/plastics which is warned against in the instructions. I have never left it in long enough to cause damage, and I use it every 50k, one full can in the gas tank and one full can through the intake following the instructions.

Installed new MAF AF10161 from here for $76.86. Takes a T25 5 point security star bit and maybe a flathead if you can't pull it out (ha). FCPEuro only had the Genuine Volvo for $237 and the Bosch and Pierburg were out of stock with no eta. So doing some research and Delphi making other OEM stuff for the car, decided to try something different. So far no problems, will see tomorrow how she does on the road.

MAP (Boost) sensor is on it's way. Ironically FCPEuro has the Genuine Volvo for $158, however if you type in the Bosch PN (0 261 230 090) on the top of the unit in the photo you get the Bosch part for $57 on FCPEuro..
 

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Changed the torque mount with the iPD one. Wow is it nice!!

Also changed all plugs and coils. Car runs amazing now


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Do not recommend Delphi AF10161. Took it to work this morning. No problem on trip there. Way home it was 95*F and it flew long term fuel trim down to -25%. Reset cel and fuel trims, bounced between + and -15% last 55 miles. Put OEM guy back in, works fine. Do not recommend.
 

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Delphi Coils and new plugs went in last night. Happy to report stutter above 5PSI is gone and life should be back to awesome. Will say fuel trims were much more stable on the drive in as well, which was nice, barely saw it crack +/-2% on the drive into work this morning. I guess 110k is a good life for any coil pack. Plugs were barely rounded at 60k (I used E3 E3.68's) and probably could have gone for another 60k easily.

I will say #1 was a PITA to get out of the head. I had a put some penetrant into the plug hole and work the plug in and out about 5x in order for it to free it enough to where I didn't feel like I was going to damage anything getting the last few threads turned. It was similar to the other 4, in that the last 3 or 4 turns were much stiffer than the previous turns to get to that point but #1 was much much stiffer than 2-5. I did let it sit for a few mins while I did the other 4 plugs + Coils and then went back to it.

It came out with only minor hesitation at that point. I noticed some buildup around the plug seats on all 5 holes, so this time I torqued all the plugs to 16 Ftlbs (20 of the 25 Nm) and we'll see how they do rather than just a hair past snug.
 

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Sad to say, car is going to the mechanic tomorrow. I had planned to do everything in the photo at the 120k mark, but I parked the car today after the gym and popped the hood like I normally do and the valvecover was covered in a pool of oil. I only get 2-4 hours of sleep a night and have no time to do this much work myself. I was planning on doing these in stages but someone else now gets a days work.

During the last day or two since changing the plugs and coils, I have noticed that there is a distinct and much louder than average TANG of the car cooling off/heating up after shutdown. Apparently this came to a head today, literally. At 4PM I got home and popped the hood like I normally do to let everything cool down for 2-3 mins. Took the kids and went to the gym and got back, popped the hood again, and yuck. Oil pooling everywhere. Removed the belt cover and while there is SOME on it, and some fling, there is nothing on the belt and just a smidge of wetness on the belt cover, so I don't think it is my VVT leaking, and probably is my valve cover. Tho I am not 100% because PCV still has suction, and I replaced the diaphragm 50k ago, old one was the good style and new one was the BMW replacement for it (good style). Was going to do oil change, but some lucky mech now gets paid to do the following jobs @ 113k and am estimating $1500-$2500...oh joy:

Timing Belt Kit
Tensioners and Serpentines.
Drivers+Passenger side motor mounts with Powerflex Inserts & Required accoutremont.
Lightweight Crank Pulley.
Injectors and FPS.
Clutch flush
Oil Change
131698


Update - So this morning I went and cleaned about 95% of the oil all over the valve cover up. I checked the flow patterns around it and it appeared that oil was flowing back to the passenger side and dripping down there, or going sideways onto the cam belt. Driver frontside was nearly completely dry. Upon further review I watched a single channel fill slowly back up with oil in the middle. So I cleaned it out again and confirmed it filling back up. I pulled the coil from it and there is no oil on the inside of that, so the next spot it could have been was a bolt. BEHOLD THE BOLT WAS LOOSE! So I put my fingers on it and sure enough it twisted no problem and oil was coming out of it. SO more than likely I undid it when I did the coils and it took my random 5500rpm run getting on the highway after the gym to start pushing oil through.

Update 2 - I torqued the bolt back to it's specified rating, and restarted - works no issues. Nothing leaks. Did a full oil change - 1/2 quart of burn off and about 1 quart of total loss. Took a test drive where I hammered it up to 60mph a few times, still no leaks, so I think it's good. Yay no mech needed.
 

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Haven't been on here in a while but I finally got around to doing the rear frankenbrake mod on the V50. I had been hoarding the parts to do it for quite a while lol.
I also finally had a set of 17" Pandoras powdercoated satin black and mounted up some fresh Pirellis. Going for alignment on Monday.
Parts of MNIWT V50 live on in mine. The rear calipers were stripped, painted, and rebuilt prior to installing them with the bigger rear brake set up.
 

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Good news! RockAuto is back to shipping to CO...more parts INCOMING!
 

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Sad to say, car is going to the mechanic tomorrow. I had planned to do everything in the photo at the 120k mark, but I parked the car today after the gym and popped the hood like I normally do and the valvecover was covered in a pool of oil. I only get 2-4 hours of sleep a night and have no time to do this much work myself. I was planning on doing these in stages but someone else now gets a days work.

During the last day or two since changing the plugs and coils, I have noticed that there is a distinct and much louder than average TANG of the car cooling off/heating up after shutdown. Apparently this came to a head today, literally. At 4PM I got home and popped the hood like I normally do to let everything cool down for 2-3 mins. Took the kids and went to the gym and got back, popped the hood again, and yuck. Oil pooling everywhere. Removed the belt cover and while there is SOME on it, and some fling, there is nothing on the belt and just a smidge of wetness on the belt cover, so I don't think it is my VVT leaking, and probably is my valve cover. Tho I am not 100% because PCV still has suction, and I replaced the diaphragm 50k ago, old one was the good style and new one was the BMW replacement for it (good style). Was going to do oil change, but some lucky mech now gets paid to do the following jobs @ 113k and am estimating $1500-$2500...oh joy:

Timing Belt Kit
Tensioners and Serpentines.
Drivers+Passenger side motor mounts with Powerflex Inserts & Required accoutremont.
Lightweight Crank Pulley.
Injectors and FPS.
Clutch flush
Oil Change
View attachment 131698

Update - So this morning I went and cleaned about 95% of the oil all over the valve cover up. I checked the flow patterns around it and it appeared that oil was flowing back to the passenger side and dripping down there, or going sideways onto the cam belt. Driver frontside was nearly completely dry. Upon further review I watched a single channel fill slowly back up with oil in the middle. So I cleaned it out again and confirmed it filling back up. I pulled the coil from it and there is no oil on the inside of that, so the next spot it could have been was a bolt. BEHOLD THE BOLT WAS LOOSE! So I put my fingers on it and sure enough it twisted no problem and oil was coming out of it. SO more than likely I undid it when I did the coils and it took my random 5500rpm run getting on the highway after the gym to start pushing oil through.

Update 2 - I torqued the bolt back to it's specified rating, and restarted - works no issues. Nothing leaks. Did a full oil change - 1/2 quart of burn off and about 1 quart of total loss. Took a test drive where I hammered it up to 60mph a few times, still no leaks, so I think it's good. Yay no mech needed.
Outstanding diagnosis. Was it a valve cover bolt?

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Outstanding diagnosis. Was it a valve cover bolt?

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Yes, of the 4 surrounding the center coil, it was the one closest to the driver.
I check every day right now that it's 95+ when I get home and so far no leaks yet.
 
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