What did you do to your C70 today?

73197 Views 832 Replies 66 Participants Last post by Facusan, 6 d ago

HunterBD

Discussion Starter · Sep 5, 2018

I’m thinking of starting a thread like on the R forum.

Well I just order the maintenance kit for my T5 from FCPEuro. It includes:
Air filter
Cabin filter
Oil filter
5 OEM sparkplugs
Oil crush washer

I have a project for next weekend.

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Facusan

· #781 · 3 mo ago

It's a really good alternative to the tow hook mounted license plate bracket or just relying on luck to not get a ticket for "Failing to display a front license plate".

Water Wheel Car Vehicle Tire

If my car hadn't come with a bumper mounted plate bracket, I would probably had went with the tow hook mount style. Since the SLY BRACKET mount blocks airflow to the intercooler, but that's just me.

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jroumdikian

· #782 · 3 mo ago

Dux96 said:
Good tips,thanks! Although the list keeps getting longer. A lot to think through and a lot to learn. Last time I did a lot of work on a vehicle was with a '72 IH Scout II when I was younger. Big difference. And Vida/DICE isn't really like a simple OBD2 reader. So crash course figuring that out.

The idea I'm contemplating for audio is installing a Connects2 kit CTKVL05 and fitting a Pioneer AVH-3500NEX. Seems feasible based on other posts but still vetting it. If only Crutchfield had solved the C70s waterfall problem already ...

I like having DRLs while driving so will need to find a different answer. Wish there was good LED options like I had for my Honda.

Hadn't even thought about a torque mount but went through other posts here to read up. Seems like a smart move, thanks. Still getting used to the long-vertical/short-horizontal throw of this 6-speed and was thinking about a short shifter like ALG (out of stock) or Snabb.

And then, of course, the front licence plate. I don't want to punch holes but I'm not completely sold on the Sly brackets like Chet recommended. Meantime, I'll keep the zip-ties holding them in place until I decide!

I'd be interested in that stereo option. Any photos installed and reviews?

Dux96

· #783 · 3 mo ago

jroumdikian said:
I'd be interested in that stereo option. Any photos installed and reviews?

Outafocus did a thread describing his work and there's one video here and another here.

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jroumdikian

· #784 · 3 mo ago

Dux96 said:
Outafocus did a thread describing his work and there's one video here and another here.

nice, but too much work. I dont want to cut the car apart, only choice is to get the GROM unit and plug it in to my cell phone.

dbphillips

· #785 · 3 mo ago

Facusan said:
Car looks great!, I bet it's super fun to drive being a manual. Get a E-Focus torque mount, all manual P1 owners recommend the upgrade.

Don't do it. Somewhere up here I uploaded a link to the video of the one I trashed in like 20k miles. Get the IPD one, on sale now: HD Billet Lower Torque Mount - P1 S40 V50 C30 C70 for Volvo - IPD - 9487349 - 139885

Reactions: 1

Facusan

· #786 · 3 mo ago

dbphillips said:
Don't do it. Somewhere up here I uploaded a link to the video of the one I trashed in like 20k miles. Get the IPD one, on sale now: HD Billet Lower Torque Mount - P1 S40 V50 C30 C70 for Volvo - IPD - 9487349 - 139885

That's the upgrade of the "upgrade" of the stock one.........

gtlover

· #787 · 3 mo ago

Reached a milestone on the way to work:

Speedometer Gauge Car Odometer Automotive design

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Facusan

· #788 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

6

Today Installed the Forge CBV I bought a few months ago:

Monochrome photography Gas Monochrome Transparency Font

Automotive tire Metal Font Rim Auto part

Automotive tire Gas Liquid Nickel Font

It came with set of color-coded springs meant for different boost pressure ranges:

Green = 5-15 psi
Yellow = 15-23 psi
Blue = 23-30 psi
Red = 30+ psi

I installed it with the green spring, since my car is still with the stock tune. Removing the genuine CBV it wasn't that difficult as I read in many threads, but it was slow, it took me around 2 hours to complete the job.

I didn't remove the axle, I just put the front of the car on jackstands, removed the wheel and used a combination of 5mm hex key, 1/4" drive wobble extensions, 1/4" hex 5mm bits, a DeWalt right angle attachment and a small ratchet. The two top screws were easy to remove, but the lower one wasn't, because the passenger side axle bracket is too close and slightly in the way. I had to loosen it with a 5mm hex key 1/6th of a turn at a time.

Automotive tire Rim Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive wheel system

With the factory CBV out, I inspected it but it was completely fine. The diaphragm was still flexible and didn't have any tears or creases. However, the spring seemed to be slightly softer than green spring of the Forge CBV. I'll see if I can somehow compare the rate of both.

Sleeve Grey Collar T-shirt Denim

Installation of the new unit, was much simpler, since it's a self-contained unit and didn't have to battle the the spring pushing the cap out like the factory CBV design does. And to make it even easier, I decided to swap the factory socket head cap screws. I checked my hardware stash and found 3 matching genuine Volvo bolts with 8mm hex head, which I think were originally used to hold the front brake dust shields. I used blue threadlocker and tighten them down with a small 1/4" drive ratchet, a combination of several extensions and a 8mm socket. For the lower bolt, I threaded it in all the way I could with my fingers and used a 8mm combination wrench to tighten it. swapping the bolts made it MUCH MORE EASIER. I highly recommend to anyone planning to do this to use hex bolts instead.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Alloy wheel Rim Automotive lighting

I took the car for a test drive, and didn't notice any difference in sound. However, it feels to have a little bit more of low end torque while accelerating from a stop.

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AyBlinken

· #789 · 3 mo ago

Facusan said:
I installed it with the green spring, since my car is still with the stock tune. Removing the genuine CBV it wasn't that difficult as I read in many threads, but it was slow, it took me around 2 hours to complete the job.

I didn't remove the axle, I just put the front of the car on jackstands, removed the wheel and used a combination of 5mm hex key, 1/4" drive wobble extensions, 1/4" hex 5mm bits, a DeWalt right angle attachment and a small ratchet. The two top screws were easy to remove, but the lower one wasn't, because the passenger side axle bracket is too close and slightly in the way. I had to loosen it with a 5mm hex key 1/6th of a turn at a time.

I feel slightly better about tackling this job now, some of those threads make it sound really bad. I've been putting off installing a GFB DVX so these pictures help. I did see a tip from one guy that used a ground down 5mm hex bit and a ratcheting wrench to get at the bolts, so I'm gonna go that route.

Reactions: 1

Facusan

· #790 · 3 mo ago

AyBlinken said:
I feel slightly better about tackling this job now, some of those threads make it sound really bad. I've been putting off installing a GFB DVX so these pictures help. I did see a tip from one guy that used a ground down 5mm hex bit and a ratcheting wrench to get at the bolts, so I'm gonna go that route.

Patience is key for this job. If you have access to a lift, that will make it easier compared to working with the car on jackstands. If not, be ready to getting under the car several times.

The GFB DVX is considerably taller than the Forge CBV i have, and the turbo oil feed line will be in the way. You may have to bend it REAL carefully to make it clear the diverter valve.

Dux96

· #791 · 3 mo ago

Bought a few things. Wasn't kidding when I said I'm starting from scratch.

Pair of RhinoRamps. I used to either park over a ditch or ride a curb. Figured not a good idea with a C70.
Duralast 2.5T jack&stands. Old floor jack didn't survive the down-size move, so needed new.
Foldable creeper/seat. My back isn't what it used to be.
Teckton 1/2 torque wrench. Never had one, so long overdue.
Headliner, both sections. Erie Vo-vo and I'll need to clean a few stains first and run down 4 more clips.
Passenger side headlight assy. Ebay, I think I can polish the driver's side and be okay.
Set of Falken Azenis FK460 A/S. Never had Falken's before, these seem to have good reviews.

Otherwise, reading pretty much all of @Facusan's posts about suspension improvements and a few other guides. And boning up on @MyNameIdeasWereTaken videos. After making sure hoses and few other mainteance check are taken care of, I was planning on replacing rear sway bar, shocks and struts. I'm a little confused are Bilsten B8s for just rear? I may also just replace engine mounts since that doesn't seem too hard and folks say it makes a difference, especially the efocus torque mount. But reading how camber seems to be an issue with C70s? How have folks handled that?

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Facusan

· #792 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Dux96 said:
I was planning on replacing rear sway bar, shocks and struts.

Keep in mind the C70 factory rear sway bar is 22mm. It's already thicker than some aftermarket and all factory C30, S40 and V50 sway bars. Make sure you don't end up buying a downgrade.

Dux96 said:
I'm a little confused are Bilsten B8s for just rear?

No, Bilstein B8 can be for both front and rear. The front struts are the same for all P1 cars (C30, S40, V50 and C70). The rear shocks is where the C70 differs from the other P1 vehicles, they're shorter. This is applies for all struts and shocks, not only the "sport" versions.

Dux96 said:
I may also just replace engine mounts since that doesn't seem too hard and folks say it makes a difference, especially the efocus torque mount.

Engine mounts suffer quite a bit with these engines, the engine is torquey and has a rocking tendency that eventually kills engine mounts. When they fail, they leak the glycol they're filled with and allow the engine to sit slightly lower, putting additional stress on the axles. The torque mount is the only one that prevents the engine/transmission from moving like a pendulum, and that makes a big difference during clutch engagement according to the manual P1 owners.

Dux96 said:
But reading how camber seems to be an issue with C70s? How have folks handled that?

Well, all P1's have camber issues, there's even a Volvo Technical journal about excessive rear tire wear in which the solution was replacing the rear upper control arms with a redesigned model that slightly reduces camber, and no, it's not adjustable. The real solution for this is actually simple: install adjustable rear upper control arms.

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raven457

· #793 · 3 mo ago

Dux96 said:
And then, of course, the front licence plate. I don't want to punch holes but I'm not completely sold on the Sly brackets like Chet recommended.

I have a model from CravenSpeed out of Portland Oregon.

www.cravenspeed.com

The Platypus License Plate Mount

CravenSpeed is a family owned company that designs and manufactures premium automotive aftermarket parts in USA.

www.cravenspeed.com

It fits 2006 - 2013.

The pricing is about in the same range, but the CravenSpeed option will mount via the front bumper's tow eyelet port. It's nice to have options.

Reactions: 1

Dux96

· #794 · 3 mo ago

raven457 said:
I have a model from CravenSpeed out of Portland Oregon.

The Platypus License Plate Mount

CravenSpeed is a family owned company that designs and manufactures premium automotive aftermarket parts in USA.

www.cravenspeed.com

It fits 2006 - 2013.

The pricing is about in the same range, but the CravenSpeed option will mount via the front bumper's tow eyelet port. It's nice to have options.

I don't know ... plate over to the side just looks odd. Y'know. Like European or something.

Reactions: 1

Facusan

· #795 · 3 mo ago

Dux96 said:
I don't know ... plate over to the side just looks odd. Y'know. Like European or something.

If you want to avoid drilling the bumper, then use adhesive velcro strips to hold the license plate on the bumper.

Reactions: 1

Dux96

· #796 · 3 mo ago

Yesterday and today had a bunch of deliveries. Getting more daylight with the time change and looking for warmer weather. Headliner from Erie, headlamp off eBay, Falken Azenis from tirerack.com and car ramps. But forgot to get a set of clips! Need 3 front and 1 center. Was hoping to get the headliner in this weekend, but guess I'll just focus on maintenance basics, like fluids, seals, fittings, etc. Which I suppose should be first priority anyway. Either that or just finally clean up my garage 😅.

Shipping box Packing materials Package delivery Wood Relocation

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Dux96

· #797 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Swapped out passenger headlight while saying Alright a lot.

Previous headlight up for grabs for anyone that wants it, provided buyer covers shipping!

Reactions: 3

coachrick

· #798 · 2 mo ago

Dux96 said:
Yesterday and today had a bunch of deliveries. Getting more daylight with the time change and looking for warmer weather. Headliner from Erie, headlamp off eBay, Falken Azenis from tirerack.com and car ramps. But forgot to get a set of clips! Need 3 front and 1 center. Was hoping to get the headliner in this weekend, but guess I'll just focus on maintenance basics, like fluids, seals, fittings, etc. Which I suppose should be first priority anyway. Either that or just finally clean up my garage 😅.
View attachment 188173

Dux96 said:
Swapped out passenger headlight while saying Alright a lot.

Previous headlight up for grabs for anyone that wants it, provided buyer covers shipping!

What is this headliner you speak of???

Dux96

· #799 · 2 mo ago

Replaced interior door handle passenger side, plastic cable mounting point had broken. Good news, interior door handle works like it should. Unfortunately, looked like it was about to rain so I closed the top while the door panel was still off. In the rush I forgot that that reconnecting the battery would trigger the SRS Airbag warning. Hoping that I can clear the code with Vida. Visting family this weekend so won't know until I get back home (driving back with warning will no doubt be a little nerve wracking).

Facusan

· #800 · 2 mo ago

Yes, you can clear the airbag error with VIDA after connecting back all the airbag components. Don't worry about it.

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