[Deerock]

Just replaced my rear sway bar end links. Those suckers had so much play in them that they felt like loose joysticks.

Good bye to the rear end clunks while driving over any road imperfection.

 

[pennzo]

I put on a new set of 4 Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Plus with DOT codes of 3121 and 3321. Odd tread design, to say the least, but they are quiet and my vibration is gone. These replaced a set of Michelin MXM4's that had DOT date codes from 5112 and 0313. I feel much safer now. Next is the PPI at VolvoCars in Tampa to understand what we've got on our hands, to include replacing the timing belt, tensioners, serpentine belt and anything else, as even though we've only got 48K miles on the car, it is 15 years and due for replacement. 👍

 

[pennzo]

View attachment 140527

Just replaced my rear sway bar end links. Those suckers had so much play in them that they felt like loose joysticks.

Good bye to the rear end clunks while driving over any road imperfection.

Are those easy to replace? I remember having those done a couple of occassions with my 2001 S80 (done at the dealer) and it always seemed expensive....I'd like to be able to take a more hands-on approach

 

[Deerock]

Are those easy to replace? I remember having those done a couple of occassions with my 2001 S80 (done at the dealer) and it always seemed expensive....I'd like to be able to take a more hands-on approach

Easy, but I guess that varies upon available tools and proper know-how.

I ended up loosening the sway bar at the bushing clamps to provide some movement. It really helps with removing and installing the new ones. Then you just need to make sure to torque everything to spec.

After the car is jacked up, it takes less than 30 minutes with proper tools and some experience. .

 

[Gmc28]

View attachment 140527

Just replaced my rear sway bar end links. Those suckers had so much play in them that they felt like loose joysticks.

Good bye to the rear end clunks while driving over any road imperfection.

FWIW, i had the clunking on my 2010 and ended up finding that one of the nuts on the end link was just slightly loose. I snugged it up, noting that its supposed to be torqued to a fairly light tension (and with the nylock to hold it), and clunk went away.
A couple months later the clunk was back, so i checked and it was loose again. re-snugged it, added an additional lock nut, and the issue was gone for good.
May be a different issue as the cause of a "clunk" for others, but i'm noting that my rear end clunk went away with that simple fix, in my case. the joints/knuckles looked to be in good shape, but of course if those joints are not in good shape and the nuts are properly snug, then my fix wouldn't be the solution.

 

[Kwincy]

Installed the OEM strut tower bar on my 2010, took only 10 minutes:

 

[Facusan]

I washed the car, set the roof into service mode, lubed the roof mechanism, cleaned and applied "gummi pflege stift" to all weatherstrips of the car. And finally installed the Fyralip Y22 spoiler I bought a month a ago. It came painted with my color code (Silver 426) and it matches 100% with the car,

The reason why I bought this spoiler lip was to hide some ugly scratches the trunk has (car was like this when I bought it):

And since I'm not planning to take it to the body shop (yet). A spoiler lip that sticks with double sided 3M tape didn't seem a bad idea to cover this for now.

So far, the 3M tape holds it in place very well. Only time will tell though........ But overall, very happy with the results.

 

[RR04]

It holds well. I got that bigger trunk lip and already tested, holds even driving at 200km/h (124mph) money well spent


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[RapidRabbit]

I've had mine on for about 9 months and no problems with it sticking on yet.

Although I will say the face side of my trunk gets much dirtier now. Anyone else notice this?

I think it messes with the aero just enough to disrupt the flow in the back.

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[oilspot]

Installed the OEM strut tower bar on my 2010, took only 10 minutes:

View attachment 149200
View attachment 149199
View attachment 149201

Can you feel a difference with the strut brace? We have a 2010 and I've always wondered if this would be worthwhile upgrade. Overall I'm happy with the ride, but no harm in strengthening the structure...

 

[Kwincy]

Can you feel a difference with the strut brace? We have a 2010 and I've always wondered if this would be worthwhile upgrade. Overall I'm happy with the ride, but no harm in strengthening the structure...

I feel a difference in body roll, especially at speeds above 20. I always thought that it handled like a boat, the strut tower brace eliminates most of the floaty feeling on my 2010. I probably should replace the shocks on mine though.

 

[Facusan]

I replaced rear lower control arms and installed adjustable upper control arms, and corrected rear camber a little bit. But I have to get an alignment ASAP.

So, I bought these used adjustable arms. The seller mentioned the original bushings failed because they got pinched. And he corrected the cause of the failure and installed new bushings.

After inspecting them I found a couple flaws. One of the center sleeves was 0.7mm too short (And very likely the reason why the original bushing failed). And the replacement bushings that came installed were too thick and I didn't like them anyways. So, I bought new polyurethane bushings that required a little modification to make them fit, but I had to reuse the original sleeves.

This is the other side of the picture above, notice the gap between the inner tube and the face of the bushing. If installed like this, the bushing will get pinched again and fail prematurely.

Solution: Custom size stainless steel washers.

Installation on the passenger side wasn't fun at all. There is a EVAP component blocking the bolt of the upper control arm. In our cars, the trunk floor sits a little bit lower. And there was no way to use a 18" extension with a 15mm socket like the C30/S40 and V50 owners recommend. I had to loosen the bolt with a combination wrench 1/6 of a turn at a time. Driver side was a piece of cake compared to the passenger side.

To adjust camber, I had to jack up the car and remove the wheels each time. Room is very limited if the car is sitting on its wheels, and I couldn't adjust it with the car on ramps. But I think it could be possible to do it with the car on a 4-post lift.

 

[RR04]

Are they handmade? Because it looks so.
I remember i bought mines on ebay and they were just plug n play, just needed an alignment


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[Facusan]

Are they handmade? Because it looks so.
I remember i bought mines on ebay and they were just plug n play, just needed an alignment


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These were plug an play too. The hard part was removing and reinstalling the frickin’ inner bolt on the passenger side. Other than that installation was simple.

They look to be hand made, the welds look really good. I checked their website and they offer a lot of suspension products for many cars. They also offer adjustable toe arms for rear wheels and camber plates for adjusting the front wheels.

Rear adjustable Camber arms for Ford Focus , Mazda 3 , Volvo C30 Silver Project | silverproject.eu

Rear adjustable Camber arms for Ford Focus , Mazda 3 , Volvo C30

silverproject.eu

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[seventy1]

My car came with adjustable arms installed but it was never aligned. I've had it a two shops and they both said that they couldn't get to the adjustment nuts with any type of wrench (with wheels on). I plan to do this with wheels off, but even then, there's almost no access around the nut for adjustable wrenches. Are others using big combo wrenches (not sure of the sizes) or removing the arm to adjust? Thanks.

 

[RR04]

My car came with adjustable arms installed but it was never aligned. I've had it a two shops and they both said that they couldn't get to the adjustment nuts with any type of wrench (with wheels on). I plan to do this with wheels off, but even then, there's almost no access around the nut for adjustable wrenches. Are others using big combo wrenches (not sure of the sizes) or removing the arm to adjust? Thanks.

Not sure how but the shop where i went, adjusted them. They told that it was a bit of pain in the ass but somehow they managed to adjust


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[Facusan]

My car came with adjustable arms installed but it was never aligned. I've had it a two shops and they both said that they couldn't get to the adjustment nuts with any type of wrench (with wheels on). I plan to do this with wheels off, but even then, there's almost no access around the nut for adjustable wrenches. Are others using big combo wrenches (not sure of the sizes) or removing the arm to adjust? Thanks.

On mine, I had to remove the wheels to adjust them. I ended up using a 8" (200mm) long adjustable wrench, I tried with a 26mm combination wrench, but it was waaaay too long.
With the wheel installed and the car on ramps I couldn't reach them.

 

[Facusan]

Not sure how but the shop where i went, adjusted them. They told that it was a bit of pain in the ass but somehow they managed to adjust


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Out of curiosity, how much costs an alignment over there??

 

[RR04]

Out of curiosity, how much costs an alignment over there??

Depends on the brand of the car and the city where you live. In capital city of Latvia i believe its something around 50eur (front and rear) and here where i live 30eur.


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[Facusan]

Dang! I knew it!! Alignments here are waaay too overpriced. From $80 (€72) to $100+ (€90+) depending on the shop.

Two days ago when I got mine aligned it cost $215 (€195) (I paid for the lifetime alignment. Which lets me take it back to get it checked or aligned for free as long I own the car. Which I’ll do for sure in a few months.)

But if I paid for the “Standard” service, then it would be ~$107 (€97)


BTW: I wonder if there is a price difference between alignments on a Ford Focus or Mazda 3 / 5 and our Volvos. Even though the suspension are exactly the same………

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