What did you do to your C70 today?
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You can, but with a legit vida subscription, which costs $80 for a 3 day license, plus the cost of every sw you download. The "Master key app" costs $36.32 . Like most of the available softwares. Others can cost up to $300 like the "Add trip computer" sw.
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Ok, so that's reasonable. Works with "non-official/ebay" dice units?
Guess I need to see how I can figure out what, if anything is actually or available needed on my cars and then go from there. May just have to pony up the $80 and see what happens.
Yes, it works with "non-official" dice units. mine came from ebay. VIDA shows you a list of available SW upgrades, Function and Hardware changes (for the last one Vida performs a readout of every module before showing you the available softwares.
Remember, $80 is the cost of the 3 day subscription. then you have to add the price of every software you download on top of that. For example: adding a key will cost $115.60 just in software + the cost of a new key.
If you already have a ebay Dice unit and VIDA 2014D. then, it doesn't make any sense to purchase the subscription unless you plan to do Software downloads.
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27 Posts
Installed a new brake pedal pad...
I did LESS!!Installed a new brake pedal pad...
After getting a summer's worth of rain this week, I finally washed and cleaned ours today!!! Supposed to be a beautiful weekend to show it off!!!
I'll take another picture when the car is clean. The diffuser is actually quite subtle when you see it from the back, you don't really see the fins between the exhaust pipes.
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1,398 Posts
So according to my mechanic my aforementioned awful noise is in fact the AC compressor needs replacing... don’t really see the point of spending $600ish on something that apparently lasts about 12 years, since the rest of the car isn’t going to last that long... considering a used replacement from Erie - thoughts?
The reason I asked about if it was the pulley is because the bearing should be replaceable. That would avoid you having to replace the compressor and all the work related to that (A/C system drain, removal & replacement of compressor, A/C system charge, etc). In other words, it should be cheaper.
The T5 for some reason cycles the A/C at startup while the 2.4i doesn’t (or at least both mine).
If the A/C compressor is bad, the sound should be heard only on startup (with the A/C off) and then goes away. If pulley bearing is bad, the sound can be heard at all times
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The T5 for some reason cycles the A/C at startup while the 2.4i doesn’t (or at least both mine).
If the A/C compressor is bad, the sound should be heard only on startup (with the A/C off) and then goes away. If pulley bearing is bad, the sound can be heard at all times
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729 Posts
I spent most of the day cleaning the Volvo before winter arrives.
Wash, debugged, clay bar, buffed and waxed.
She still cleans up nice for a 9 year old 120,000 mile car.
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Wash, debugged, clay bar, buffed and waxed.
She still cleans up nice for a 9 year old 120,000 mile car.
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Yesterday installed new akebono front brake pads and the OEM strut brace.
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Also I cleaned the exterior of the power steering pump because it was full of oil/dirt. Not sure if is leaking or somebody before I bought the car spilled oil while topping it up.
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Also I cleaned the exterior of the power steering pump because it was full of oil/dirt. Not sure if is leaking or somebody before I bought the car spilled oil while topping it up.
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Installed new rear shock absorbers, bump stops and mounts.
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It was so easy to replace I didn't even had to remove the wheel!!
I just put the back of the car on jackstands and 20 minutes later the car was on the ground again. The only difficult part was torquing the shock absorber/control arm bolt with the car on the ground.
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Also replaced the left headlight harness connector that had the release tab broken and every time had to use a flat head screwdriver to disconnect it from the headlight.
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It was so easy to replace I didn't even had to remove the wheel!!
I just put the back of the car on jackstands and 20 minutes later the car was on the ground again. The only difficult part was torquing the shock absorber/control arm bolt with the car on the ground.
Also replaced the left headlight harness connector that had the release tab broken and every time had to use a flat head screwdriver to disconnect it from the headlight.
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476 Posts
Changed both front shock absorbers including upper bearings. Also had to change one of the lower ball joints, that was a bit of pain in the ass. Tried flexing off the rivets, but that didnt help, ended with drilling them out. Too bad didnt thought abiut drilling them out in the first place.
Also not bad for oem ball joint (290k km).
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Also not bad for oem ball joint (290k km).
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it has 99500 miles. I replaced the shocks after I found they had lost their nitrogen charge. When I pushed the shock rod, it didn't go back to its fully extended position.
Initially I was going to replace the bump stops, but when I removed the shock. I found out they were gone.
the cost of the parts was:
Shock Absorbers: $78.76 (eeuroparts.com / KYB 348082)
Shock Absorber mounts: $35.18 (eeuroparts.com / Lemforder 3131801)
Bump stop & dust cover kit: $19.99 (FCP Euro / Meyle 5147400000)
Initially I was going to replace the bump stops, but when I removed the shock. I found out they were gone.
the cost of the parts was:
Shock Absorbers: $78.76 (eeuroparts.com / KYB 348082)
Shock Absorber mounts: $35.18 (eeuroparts.com / Lemforder 3131801)
Bump stop & dust cover kit: $19.99 (FCP Euro / Meyle 5147400000)
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