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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello gentlemen-hope everybody had a good weekend. The axle boots on my 99,500 mile V50 T5 starting to split and from doing a bunch of reading it appears that I should consider simply replacing the whole axle assembly.

I know there has been some hand ringing over where to source the replacement axles, and I was hoping to get some coaching on what the current thinking is. I’d prefer not to spend a jillion dollars on OEM parts but don’t want to be penny wise and pound foolish.

Thanks!
 

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2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66
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Replace the boot before you need an axle. Replacement axles are not anywhere near the quality of the original unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Uh oh.

I was told the axles need to be redone about this mileage?

Thanks for the response btw.
 

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So - look for a local good reputable axle rebuilder - buy yourself a cheapo and install. Take the quality one to the rebuilder. Cost me $100 to get mine redone, bearing and all. It now sits in Cheapo's box in the trunk waiting for cheapo to rip a boot. And guess what - when cheapo rips/breaks - lifetime warranty so I get a new one. Yay.

Also as far as I am aware - my axles have approximatley 140k on them, and there was no slack or looseness. I am not the only owner though so I could be wrong. Cheapo has some vibration at speed, but it is barely noticeable.
 

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2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66
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Axles will go for ever as long as they aren't launched, kept greased, and clean from contamination in the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys - the r&r looks pretty straight forward on this, how much time would you budget per side?
 

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Uh oh.

I was told the axles need to be redone about this mileage?

Thanks for the response btw.
Says who? As long as you tackle it early enough a boot replacement should do. Now are we talking about the inner, or outer boot by the wheel that steers and stretches? If the latter I'd giddy up before you need a new axle!


What is this "launched" you speak of? (Yes, actually asking.)
Pedal to the metal.
 

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XC70 2.5T, V50T5 AWD M6
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Replacement axles are not anywhere near the quality of the original unit.
This. Refurbished OEM is much, much better than (any?) aftermarket axle. Having the bearings changed and balance checked at a machine shop is the cheapest way to get a like-new replacement unit.
 

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This. Refurbished OEM is much, much better than (any?) aftermarket axle. Having the bearings changed and balance checked at a machine shop is the cheapest way to get a like-new replacement unit.
My 08 joined the fleet at 112k; shortly thereafter a used replacement passenger side front axle was sourced from Erie VoVo. Original is now at A-1 Cardone for a rebuild. Will let the list know the outcome. At the moment, Cardone is not selling these axles directly - only rebuilding cores.

The car does not get "launched", but it does have some extra torque that gets used for passing on 2-lane roads. After a few thousand miles with the extra torque, old oem axles begin to vibrate at around 60 mph. If the Cardone reman doesn't hold up, I'm going to the local drag strip to see what the fwd guys do to their drive axles.

686Sport - just back from towing my m/c to the Rockies for a ride to the Other Coast. Lots of 2-lanes.
 

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Thanks guys - the r&r looks pretty straight forward on this, how much time would you budget per side?
Passenger side is probably a half hour or less if you have the tools. Drivers side is probably an hour as it has a snapring that had to be in the oerfect spot to both remove and install.
 

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This. Refurbished OEM is much, much better than (any?) aftermarket axle. Having the bearings changed and balance checked at a machine shop is the cheapest way to get a like-new replacement unit.
What are the symptoms of an out of balance axle? Are they the same as an unbalanced wheel and occur with or without power being applied? I have a vibration only upon acceleration so it seems to point to a bad inner axle joint but I've changed out what I think is the offending side twice, once with a new aftermarket and once with my rebuilt OE axle, and still have the vibration. I'm wondering if they didn't balance the axle when it was rebuilt but since the vibration doesn't occur when coasting it seems the balance is okay.

I haven't swapped out the driver's side yet because the vibration really feels like it is coming from the passenger side. The new aftermarket axle has a lifetime warranty so maybe I'll swap another new one in for the rebuilt unit and take the rebuilt unit back to the rebuild shop or find another shop.
 

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XC70 2.5T, V50T5 AWD M6
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What are the symptoms of an out of balance axle? Are they the same as an unbalanced wheel and occur with or without power being applied?
Pretty much. Imbalance causes vibration and premature wear. On the other hand, driveshafts are relatively short and lightweight so checking the balance when replacing the bearings is more or less a precautionary measure.

Aside from (damaged) driveshafts/axles, a common source of vibration on P1:s are worn engine and transmission mounts. I've been procrastinating for a while replacing the passenger side mount on the V50 and both driver's side mounts on XC70, transitions between throttle and braking cause a few shakes for approximately one second. A telltale sign that the mounts are well past their best-before date. Be sure to check them too if the vibration isn't continuous whenever the car is moving.
 

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Aside from (damaged) driveshafts/axles, a common source of vibration on P1:s are worn engine and transmission mounts. I've been procrastinating for a while replacing the passenger side mount on the V50 and both driver's side mounts on XC70, transitions between throttle and braking cause a few shakes for approximately one second. A telltale sign that the mounts are well past their best-before date. Be sure to check them too if the vibration isn't continuous whenever the car is moving.
I replaced left and right side mounts as well as the torque mount about a year ago so those should be good. The vibration is quite continuous when power is applied but stops as soon as I let off the gas. I should have a chance to swap the driver's side axle this weekend, and if that doesn't fix it I'll swap yet another axle in the passenger side.
 

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Passenger side is probably a half hour or less if you have the tools. Drivers side is probably an hour as it has a snapring that had to be in the oerfect spot to both remove and install.
How do you tell the snapring is in the perfect spot, and if it isn't, how do you get to the perfect spot?

I've done the passenger side a couple of time in the last few weeks and I found I had to disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle to get enough room to remove the axle from the hub. Some guides I found made it look like you could remove the axle without touching the ball joint but I tried for a good hour to maneuver the axle out with no luck until I disconnected the ball joint. I also had to remove one end of the sway bar end link in order to slide the axle all the way out of the transmission. So the first time I tried to change the axle it took about two hours and the next time about 45 minutes.
 

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XC70 2.5T, V50T5 AWD M6
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I should have a chance to swap the driver's side axle this weekend, and if that doesn't fix it I'll swap yet another axle in the passenger side.
Come to think of it, the XC had quite similar symptoms at one point and the passenger side axle was the culprit. When I finally figured that out I had already replaced pretty much everything else while trying to troubleshoot the problem.
 

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What is this "launched" you speak of? (Yes, actually asking.)
"Launching" is getting the car moving as fast as possible from a standstill. This involves power-braking with an automatic or high-rev clutch-dumping with a standard, both of which place tremendous strain on the driveline. Simply flooring the go-pedal (not an uncommon occurrence even during normal driving) is not "launching."

With a standard transmission, similar driveline shock/strain can be produced by "power shifting" (not letting off the go-pedal while shifting). Obviously cars with power mods make the strain all the more severe.
 

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How do you tell the snapring is in the perfect spot, and if it isn't, how do you get to the perfect spot?

I've done the passenger side a couple of time in the last few weeks and I found I had to disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle to get enough room to remove the axle from the hub. Some guides I found made it look like you could remove the axle without touching the ball joint but I tried for a good hour to maneuver the axle out with no luck until I disconnected the ball joint. I also had to remove one end of the sway bar end link in order to slide the axle all the way out of the transmission. So the first time I tried to change the axle it took about two hours and the next time about 45 minutes.
Basically, what'll happen is you'll push on it with all your might and it won't go in. Again and again this will happen. Eventually you will rotate and press, rotate and press, and then it will slide in. The snapring on the end squeezes together and goes into the hole. If I were to compare it to something in terms of feeling, it would be similar to putting a straw into the top of a soda lid from a gas station very slowly. Resistance but movement and then when it gets enough pressure it slides through the slots in it. On a larger scale obviously.

I am in the same situation with my LCA's...first time it took me 4 hours per side, this time it took about 1.5 per side total to get them removed and installed without skipping any steps.
 

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If you can't be bothered with re-booting (I tried, and though I'm fine at just about everything else I've had to do on the car, this was just too fiddly for me), Napa MaxDrive remanufactured axles. They're rebranded Cardone units which use OEM cores, and carry an improved warranty through Napa. Thick boots too. Less than 100/side.
 
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