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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Been driving Volvos for over 35 years, from several 240 Wagons up to my current '18 S-90. Missed the versatility of my 07 XC-70 and had been looking at a 15.5 XC-70 2.0 w/150,000 miles on it....fwd, looked at it again yesterday in fact at the used car dealer lot near me.

I've supplemented my weekend fleet, (I have a 95 Toyota T-100 w/8' bed) with a 99 Ford Expedition I bought 3 years ago w/53,000 miles but it's a monster, (although I'm able to slide full sheets of plywood through the rear window!!!), and tough to get a canoe up there. Plus...I'm a Volvo guy, the Ford was going to be sold sooner or later but I wanted to replace it first. So I've been looking for about 6 months on and off, never really saw anything compelling or at the right price. I'm not looking for a cream puff and I've never really considered an XC-90 to figure into the budget

Well......

Friend of a friend is a good sized used car dealer. My friend calls and says this dealer offered him an 07 XC-90 2.3 w/151,000 miles on it for $1,700. He's not a Volvo fan so he offered it up to me. Friend drove it, said it drove well, newer tires etc and very clean throughout. Has the 3rd row, all leather. Titanium w/gray interior. Nice! I'm going to grab it.

Car was traded in by a college student. Came from upper left coast state, (I'm in NY), with plates still on it. Based on the issues noted below dealer probably paid rough trade in of under $1,500.

SRS Airbag Service light is on and dealers mechanic noticed a bearing noise in the rear wheel.

We have a pretty good Volvo dealer here so unless there is a better option I'll have the SRS checked by them. I have a superb one man indy for the bearings. I'll call Volvo this morning w/VIN to see if they have ever serviced. (Our local college is typically attended by children of middle upper-upper class out of area folks so assume Dad told her to take it to Volvo dealer over the years she was here)

Been up since 2 a.m. looking through all info I can find, seen horror stories of dash needing to come out due to SRS but we'll see soon enough. While '07 isn't the ultimate year it seems the 3.2 is well sorted by then and the tranny is not horrible.

I could offer up advice all day on a XC-70 or 240 but this is a new animal for me. I've read the 3.2 good/bad/ugly by RyanR and a host of other threads as well. Head is swimming.

Advice for first week of ownership?? Oh, and VIDA is downloading as I write this!! Thank you Roxanaschram!
 

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If you're downloading VIDA you should get a DiCE tool as well so you can hook it up.
 

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^^ that :)

With VIDA you get the full repair instructions, parts catalog and so on. But to really know, what is happening in your car, you need a DICE. I'm not familiar how this is handled on this forum, but if you need one, I can give you a contact in GB, who tests all the devices he sells. :) You can as well get one from Alie** or just google. :) But you need it. :)

Yepp, you need it, and it will pay itself off in a few weeks, I promise. If you have an SRS error, even in the best case someone before did something stupid like unplugging a module without disconnecting the battery, you need a DICE or you have to go to your dealer to reset the error. Here in Germany reseting an error (or every readout) runs around 50.-€ to 70.-€. A DICE is around 100.-€... You get the idea. :D

But whatever you do, you need to readout the error codes to know, where that SRS error is coming from. It could be a wide variety of things, eg. the stupid "forgot to disconnect the battery" thing or a completly ruined module.

Checks I'd do:
* oil and transmission oil levels, if possible do a transmission fluid change, but check the instructions here on this forum before you start
* wear and tear around the undercarriage
* lights (inside/outside)

Have fun with your XC, it is a great car, in my eyes the logical step from the 240 to 765 to 965... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yup, plan on buying DiCE tool. Of all I've seen on line this

https://www.amazon.com/Obd2-Volvo-Vida-Dice-Diagnostic/dp/B00A78AYVK

is the most expensive but at least the site doesn't have multiple grammatical errors. Wouldn't mind an alternate suggestion otherwise.

Still taking it to Volvo to scan and repair SRS if needed, also let them do an inspection of undercarraige.....let them supply laundry list of items it needs then DIY or go to my Indy. They checked the VIN, they've not seen the car before. Dealer is supplying the Carfax...nice add.

Haven't got it in my possession yet but I did go peek at it via a slow drive by in the back of the dealers lot. Body is perfect.

Can't seem to add image but it looks like this one:

https://dygtyjqp7pi0m.cloudfront.net/i/36623/31542514_1.jpg?v=8D62E18668E52C0

Not a huge fan of that wheel style and the lights are frosted over...just like my 07 XC-70. Local pick & pull has no XC-90's currently but I'll be on the hunt for replacements.
 

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I purchased the S60 with the SRS light on; I knew it would be a chore to clear. Turned out it was not at all.

After studying the Vida/Dice system, I went with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FP96X2D/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=A2OTIFO8YDNVWX&psc=1

For about $100 it access, reads, clears all modules. I know it doesn't give you everything as VIDA but it's fast, easy, and unless you need the tuning aspects, great. I can find repair info everywhere, and I don't plan on swapping turbos so it was the best option for me. The light appeared to be on because the seat was removed with the battery connected apparently, so just clearing it was all that was needed.

Good luck on your new wagon.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just reading through the reviews of the headlights I posted were troubling....delamination, poor wiring, melting etc.

These sound better, https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/67...MIiOHU_piJ7QIVFo-GCh2GZA8fEAQYASABEgIxy_D_BwE

I'll research the TYC's as well.

Not interested in driving with foggy lenses as I have fond memories of driving in my 07 with really cruddy lens fog. Not good, and not willing to re-live especially as I am getting to be an old fart with diminished night vision. My 2016 V-60 had dreadful lights but the Thors Hammer S-90 brights are a thing of beauty.

I had huge Cibie"fogs" on a few of my old 240's...but that was more for looks than need back then. I had retrofitted an 86 XJ6 with "illegal" euro spec halogens in the outer bulb fitting, (compare an English XJ 6 picture to a US version...much larger outer lamps)....you could bore through walls...or the back of the drivers head ahead of you,

Toby: 'm in the same boat you are! Thanks for the recommendation!
 

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Just reading through the reviews of the headlights I posted were troubling....delamination, poor wiring, melting etc.

These sound better, https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/67...MIiOHU_piJ7QIVFo-GCh2GZA8fEAQYASABEgIxy_D_BwE

I'll research the TYC's as well.

Not interested in driving with foggy lenses as I have fond memories of driving in my 07 with really cruddy lens fog. Not good, and not willing to re-live especially as I am getting to be an old fart with diminished night vision. My 2016 V-60 had dreadful lights but the Thors Hammer S-90 brights are a thing of beauty.

I had huge Cibie"fogs" on a few of my old 240's...but that was more for looks than need back then. I had retrofitted an 86 XJ6 with "illegal" euro spec halogens in the outer bulb fitting, (compare an English XJ 6 picture to a US version...much larger outer lamps)....you could bore through walls...or the back of the drivers head ahead of you,

Toby: 'm in the same boat you are! Thanks for the recommendation!

Eeuro use to have the same warranty as FCP but they have changed. I believe they were bought out or had problems so was purchased or bailed out by another company (they emailed their former customers). I have purchased from them and didn't have a problem but I did read in another forum about people having issues.

I just finished the lens on my 03 Odyssey with excellent results and will do the same on the 08 C30 T5 when son returns for the holidays. They were really, really bad. I recommend wet sanding and then clean with 99% alcohol, let dry before spraying. Starting with 320 (if not real bad), 600, 800, 1500 up to 3000. With the C30 I will go up to 5000 or even 7000 just to see how much clearer it can get. Using the 2500 you can already see the glass clearing just by sanding (dry). Son and I sealed the perimeter with just a little bead of silicone to get rid of condensation in the light assembly of the C30. Clean the edges well with a tooth brush and alcohol before sealing. Don't need much silicone!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9NP0_nF2ak

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17...ords=maguire+clear+coat&qid=1605604981&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Wa...690-f7e1-44eb-ad06-aebbef559a37&tag=bgr0a0-20


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Discussion Starter #12
I've never had any luck with trying to clear up lenses, but I never did use the Mequiars.

Boy I've spent hours putzing around since finding this '90.

61 years old and still feel like a kid at Christmas whenever a new old car comes along!!!

As much as I love my S-90 I miss going to the Pick & Pull or light wrenching on an older car
 

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I've never had any luck with trying to clear up lenses, but I never did use the Mequiars.

I finally found a way that works. On a Lexus w/yellowing lenses, we sanded progressively with 1,500, 2k, 4k. Polished with the foam meguair's wheel and compound. Lens was pretty clear, light output from the HID bulbs was tons better. Big improvement. BUT: they would yellow again after a few months. I did it a 2nd time but this time then sprayed them with an inexpensive UV resistant clearcoat (rustoleum painter's touch). It has been at least four years now and they are the same as when I polished them last. So total cost besides time spent was like $5 for the clearcoat (had the papers, etc).
 

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UV resistant clearcoat
That is the key for sure to make it last. (edited to add: and the kit I linked above includes some Meguiar's branded UV clearcoat.)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Worth a try!! Thanks for the tips!

Should get back up into the high 40's/low 50's this weekend.
 

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I finally found a way that works. On a Lexus w/yellowing lenses, we sanded progressively with 1,500, 2k, 4k. Polished with the foam meguair's wheel and compound. Lens was pretty clear, light output from the HID bulbs was tons better. Big improvement. BUT: they would yellow again after a few months. I did it a 2nd time but this time then sprayed them with an inexpensive UV resistant clearcoat (rustoleum painter's touch). It has been at least four years now and they are the same as when I polished them last. So total cost besides time spent was like $5 for the clearcoat (had the papers, etc).
Thanks for the reminder. Our 03 GS300 is the worst. Will consider doing the extra work of wet sanding and clearcoating. The car is considered totaled from being rear ended last year. Still looks okay if you close the trunk. Poor thing, kinda wrote it off and driving it till it dies.


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Thanks for the reminder. Our 03 GS300 is the worst. Will consider doing the extra work of wet sanding and clearcoating. The car is considered totaled from being rear ended last year. Still looks okay if you close the trunk. Poor thing, kinda wrote it off and driving it till it dies.


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I did mine a year and a half ago. I bought the 3M kit on eBay, took one look at the sandpaper and instructions, then set it aside. I have every grit of wet/dry on hand because of plastics, paint, and varnish work, so I just went after it by hand starting with 400. Keeping it wet, I changed to the next grit when I stopped getting brownish coloured swarf, until I worked down to 1000 grit. !500 and 2000 grits were so unproductive, I skipped those and went to the 3M polishing step. Mission accomplished, and I then applied the cheap vinyl film I bought on eBay to the starboard lens. There's a learning curve, so I destroyed enough stock to not get the port side one done :(
Make a long story short, the port one never got covered, and it's on it's way back to brownish. The starboard side with cheap vinyl is still crystal clear. My friend smears the magic treatments on his Toyota headlights after polishing and has to polish the lenses every six months. The Toyota lenses have some weird bumps on them, so vinyl won't work with attractive results.
The eBay stuff is about $6 bucks delivered. Highly recommended.
 

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I'll be doing this soon on the '06 and have read about applying Adhesion Promoter as a final step before spraying on the clearcoat (Eastwood 2K Aero-Spray).

I purchased a can of Dupli-Color and will give it a try but I'm curious if anyone else has done this extra step as part of a "normal" restoration.
 

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I did mine a year and a half ago... The starboard side with cheap vinyl is still crystal clear... The Toyota lenses have some weird bumps on them, so vinyl won't work with attractive results.
The eBay stuff is about $6 bucks delivered. Highly recommended.
I've considered the vinyl for the 19 Atlas. I've read some products had shrunk / dry / cracked so am still doing research. Have also thought about the Meguiar's G17804 Clear Headlight Coating per Scotty Kilmer video where he coats the new lens of his wife's car. Thought it worked well on the Odyssey (Meguiar's) but not sure if it will slightly blur the crystal clearness of new headlights. Have to check the VW forums to see if any has treated their new headlights.

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I'll be doing this soon on the '06 and have read about applying Adhesion Promoter as a final step before spraying on the clearcoat (Eastwood 2K Aero-Spray).

I purchased a can of Dupli-Color and will give it a try but I'm curious if anyone else has done this extra step as part of a "normal" restoration.
My son likes his videos. Second video is with Dupli-color Promoter and then Clear.

How to Restore Faded Hazy or Yellowing Headlights by Wet Sanding and Polishing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDDmAeXltMA

Plastic Headlights Using Clear Coat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNNMj0gGbA

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