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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long post with many pics...

I installed an Aquamist 2d water injection system and a 4 nozzle intercooler water spray system on my car.

Here is the Aquamist 2d system from the Aquamist website:


more info can be found on the Aquamist website at: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/index.html

Here are some pics of the Aquamist installation:

The most obvious part that is visible is the boost pressure switch.



The pump itself is concealed by the original plastic cover that is over an empty space beside the air filter box. So at a glance, no one will notice anything different if they did not see the pressure switch.



My system draws water from the regular wiper reservoir, so I'll get a warning when the water runs low.


This is a pic of the hi-speed solenoid valve with inline filter.



The location of the water injector post IAT sensor.



Inside the car, I've located the FiA2 fuel injection amplifier near the footwell. The lights are visible through the steering wheel just somewhere below my left knee.



The blocked jet warning led is located at the corner of the driver's A pillar. The light is quite bright and will defintely catch the eye if it goes off. During startup, the light will come momentarily on while the pump charges up. This also helps ensure that the light is working before starting.


My current setup is running with a 0.7mm nozzle injecting 260cc/min of water with triggering at 0.85bar boost pressure at high injector duty cycle. The injector signal is tapped from injector #1, which is the injector closest to the airbox.

I will post some dyno charts later on the effects of water injection, but safe to say, the power increase can be felt.

Only problem I see so far is that there is no space on the stock IC to mount the water injector nozzle before the IAT sensor, hence I mounted it post IAT sensor. This means that the ECU will still see an extremely high IAT and may still cut back on power to protect the engine even though the effects of water will prevent the engine from knocking.

Next, a bit on my intercooler spray system.

The controller is purchased from Autospeed, manufactured by Labtronics (Australia).

What this handy controller does is monitor the IC temperature relative to ambient temperature and fuel injector duty cycle (they call it the fang factor) to determine just how hard you're running the car. You set a temperature threshold and an injector duty cycle threshold... when both are exceeded the controller turns on the spray.

The benefits of this controller are reduced water usage and better control of intercooler temperatures thanks to its logic. No water is sprayed when on boost if the IC is already cool, spray continues between shifts and, if the logic decides you've really been hammering on the car, continuing to spray after you're off the throttle to get the IC temperature back in line.

More info can be found here:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng22.shtml

The controller box and associated wiring.


Other parts that were purchased are 3 x Brass T joints and a good length of rubber hose.
A volvo hi pressure water pump was also purchased.



The pump and nozzles were connected as shown. The horns were moved to each side to allow more airflow to the intercooler. (didn't bring a camera when the installation was done, so I am borrowing a forum member's car for illustration - I hope u don't mind..
)




Here is a pic of the nozzles:

you can just make out the upper two nozzles where the horns used to be.



The controller box is hidden in the passenger side of the dash compartment (i.e. the side without the fuse box).



Overall impression of the system:

After fiddling with the injector duty cycle sensitivity and temp sensitivity, I find that after idling at traffic lights for a long time, the IC core gets heated up due to the sandwiched design. When boosting off from those kind of stops at above 4000rpm or so (depends on injector loads), the spray will kick in. Effects on IAT is not known as I do not own an auterra OBDII scanner yet, but the air-con definitely feels colder after that
.

Modified by Kaminari at 12:05 AM 6-20-2005
 

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http://********************/smile/emthup.gif



How did you install the nozzle onto the plastic intercooler piping? Or, a better question is, where did you choose to have the water jet spray into the system?


Good job.

What did everything end up costing you, if you don't mind our asking!

-R.
 

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Re: Watered down R (Kaminari)

Good work! Thanks for showing the install. Is your horn still effective (loud) after being moved?

- Polartek
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (Svenske Racing)

Quote, originally posted by Svenske Racing »

How did you install the nozzle onto the plastic intercooler piping? Or, a better question is, where did you choose to have the water jet spray into the system?


Good job.

What did everything end up costing you, if you don't mind our asking!

-R.

The piping was removed and drilled. The mounting plate for the nozzle was bonded to the pipe using an industrial strength bonding material - can't recall what brand. Nozzle is mounted 90deg to airstream.

The nozzle is located after the IC and IAT sensor (no space before stock IAT sensor as it is immediately after the stock IC), maximising distance from the manifold to allow more time and greater dispersion of the water.

Cost for the Aquamist 2d plus install is USD900.
 

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when you say the power increase "can be felt". would yo ucompare the power gain to the gain of bolting on an ECU or cat back exhaust - more or less?

how long did this take to install. looks like it was time consuming - at least to fabricate a way to get the water injected into the car. most of it looks straightforward - except for that part where you removed and drilled the piping. that might be over some people's heads.

did you have to remove the front bumper cover to install the aquamist system??

BTW - awesome job!! that is an excellent write up!! http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: Watered down R (Kaminari)

Great job-nice system.

Word of warning on the Evolve cooling system hoses, I installed Evolve hoses roughly 6 months ago and I had my top hose burst in a catastrophic manner 1 week ago.

It could have been a faulty hose, but I had Volvo replace both with OEM hoses just in case.
 

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Re: Watered down R (Britspeed)

There are two VS threads on failed Samco cooling hoses, one of which resulted in a blown engine when the owner had to drive it out of traffic.


There is no compelling advantage to silicone cooling hoses that I'm aware. And blue is a poor reason to switch away from the very good OE hoses.
 

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Re: Watered down R (StaggRLee)

Quote, originally posted by StaggRLee »
There are two VS threads on failed Samco cooling hoses, one of which resulted in a blown engine when the owner had to drive it out of traffic.


There is no compelling advantage to silicone cooling hoses that I'm aware. And blue is a poor reason to switch away from the very good OE hoses.

Wow, if that's true, that's crazy. I always thought silicone hoses were better than oem.
 

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I agree that changing to blue is a bad reason to swap out hoses, but I was also under the belief that silicone was better. In my mind - blue looked better, but the change got me a better color AND better quality hoses.

hopefully, the blown hose was a fluke. I'll have to watch that. if that sucker breaks, man - pull over FAST.

back to the topic of this thread!

the idea of water injection is neat. It sounds like a relatively cheap way to make the engine run more efficiently and give us back some of the power that the heat is robbing us of. anyone care to "guess" how much extra power a setup like this would actually make?
 

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Re: Watered down R (vintagemilano)

Well in the old days that kind of event usually meant a blown head gasket and a warped head which was not too big a deal. With the "white" motor alloy blocks, the blocks will warp.


http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum...23185

There's another link on the first VS page at the moment but I won't link to a post by that individual.


... and yes, sorry for going OT. http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif Back to your regular scheduled programming. http://********************/smile/emcocktl.gif
 

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if this hose breaks, is it possible to shut down, get off the roadway before permanent damage occurs, or does a blown hose = blown head gasket for sure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Watered down R

4 wheel Dyno charts (WHP) pre and post Aquamist.

4th Gear Run with aquamist (Test 21 - OAT 35degC) and without aquamist (Test 20 - OAT 30.6degC)


As mentioned earlier, the current setting is using a 0.7mm nozzle and boost activation at 0.85 bar. Problem with the R is that the IAT sensor is located just after the IC, leaving no space to mount the nozzle before it. As the water is injected only after the IAT sensor, the ECU will think that IAT is still very high (up to 105degC or 221degF), but the engine may not experience any detonation (i.e, the water may make the fuel behave like a very high octane fuel).....but looks like this is not happening.

At the 4700rpm mark, the car still suffers from something....probably high IAT, causing ECU to cut back on ignition advance.

The guy doing the dyno felt the car surge and drop in power at the 4700rpm mark before picking up again.

However, on the road, I do not get the same sensation. So I think it is most likely an IAT issue that is causing the ECU to cut back....

4th Gear Run with aquamist (Test 21 - OAT 35degC) with OBDII data superimposed


The water injection comes in at about the 2600rpm mark on WOT as the ignition duty cycle is almost at max and the 0.85 boost is also triggered. The data shows the water injection effect coming in and ignition advance continues up to about 4700rpm when something is causing the ecu to cut back drastically on the ignition advance. (anyone with other explanations for the drop?)

It does seem that I'll have to find a way to install the water injector before the IAT sensor or relocate the stock sensor to after the water injector.
 

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it looks like your car is clearly making MORE power with aquamist, but that at about 5k rpm you lose power and then it picks back up....

if you can get rid of that problem, the system looks like it's making nice power for you. I think Richard's system will have all the right spots plumbed for injectin the water in the right spot.

thanks for the dyno charts and helpful info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (23109VC)

update. Did a WOT run on the road with OAT at 27degC. The 4700rpm hesistation is still there... Looks more like a tuning problem or some mechanical issue.


I'll be putting in another 0.5mm injector pre-IC to help lower IAT a bit as post IAT shows temps as high as 105degC....beyond boiling point of water. The aquamist pump will be able to handle a branch into 2 jets - pre and post IC.
 

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Re: (Kaminari)

Great post. Thanks.

Perhaps you could just purchase a spare IAT sensor and let it hang out in the breeze to fool the ECU into thinking intake air is not hot.

Another possibility is that the ECU has "learned" that it must retard timing at this rpm. I don't know that the ECU really operates like that, though. Time for a reset??
 

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Re: (Kaminari)

Kaminari

How many miles have you got on your plugs?

Might want to change your plugs. You might be having some misfire which will trigger the timing pullback.

HTH,
Awdnut
 

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Re: (Kaminari)

Kaminari

When I was dyno tuning my other car, the tuner's laptop computer was able to actually log in real time the individual cylinder timing. The car was showing timing retardation at certain higher rpm
high boost condition which was later traced to cylinder no.5 (on a six cylinder) showing the misfire. All plugs replaced and the power dip is gone

HTH,
Awdnut
 
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