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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a pump today, to use for setting the wastegate. But, whenever I got to around 7 psi on the pump, the nozzle pops off. Did you use a clamp on the pump? My nozzle is plastic, and I don't want to break it, so thought I'd ask first.

**EDIT**

New developments... See WOT stuttering thread if interested. Sorry for the fail thread


Modified by JoeLvo at 7:29 PM 5-22-2009
 

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Re: Wastegaters. did you have troubles with the pump hose popping off the yellow line? (JoeLvo)

I decided to double check my WG today and while doing it I modified my setup. I have a hose hooked up to the compressor and I got air pressure regulator installed. If i remember correctly the regulator is 0-30psi so its simple to set the correct pressure









 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Wastegaters. did you have troubles with the pump hose popping off the yellow line? (s140s)

Thanks for the pics, I'm doing it this way too, although with a bike pump.
Problem is, the wastegate is opening on first pump, every time. The rod is showing very few threads left, and it's still opening on first pump


I'm afraid to even fire it up now, because something is *not* right with the way I'm doing this. Every picture I've seen has at least 1.5-2 inches of thread showing on the rod, I'm almost at the point where I've tightened it to the end of the threads, and she still opens immediately.

LOL, I'm glad that this car is at least easy to work on for certain things. Once you know what you;re doing, that is. I'm not there yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (kmagnuss)

Yeah, it turns out that the bike pump I bought has fine, unmarked increments. They were not lbs/in, they were atmospheres. I mean, who buys a pump with a gauge with no scale on it?? A desperate person, thats who


Every pump was spiking over 1 bar, about 22psi or so. Yeah, I probably broke something else trying to get it to 8 bar thinking the opened gate was still closed. It's hard to do by yourself (pump that thing up to 22 psi and watch the gate at the same time). So, now I have to wait for it to cool off again because I went out in search of a better pump (fail), and I'm dying to know this:

About how long is the rod from the solenoid to the locknut? I'm trying to go by pictures, and yeah, not so much.


So, if somebody remembers a ballpark measurement, and can shoot something off from memory (I know, I know), I mean, wow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (chinaonnitrous1)

Thanks man. Im gonna go pick up some stuff @ volvo and a hand pump. Im taking it to your meqsurement first, so i dont break anything else, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (JoeLvo)

Ok, removed the IPD HD TCV, adjested the rod to 3/4" of thread showing (this was emergency/desperation time, thanks China!), and my car runs well now. But for the life of me, I cannot find an adequate pump. Everything with a gauge is too high pressure. Has anyone found a suitable pump with gauge, or are you guys cobbling your own together with a low pressure gauge (boost, fuel pressure for carbs, etc..)? I want to set it correctly, and swap the TCV back in to see which one was the culprit.

Thanks to all who have provided feedback, advice, and support. This has been a week from he!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (kmagnuss)

wow, ok. Im going to try again
I'm


But first, I'm going to go test out the IPD tcv valve. BEcause if it's good, it's going right back on and then I will start to tweak.

This raises the question though, that, if the ipd tcv is good, why would the 1.5 turns be good for several weeks, then all of a sudden end up being too many turns after a high speed run? Definitely strange, which is why I didnt even think to look into the actuator rod setting. But I'll ask that in the "WOT stuttering" thread, somebody out there may just be as inept as myself, and end up finding this thread to help them with their WG tweak.
 
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