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Give me some <u>DO</u> & <u>DO NOT</u>(as in a mistake you made) on washing/drying/waxing/polishing after answering this....<p>I plan on washing my car tomorrow for the 1st time and was wondering if it would be okay to use that quick detail spray... I know it's suppose to be used in between waxes but I was told that new cars are usually waxed or have some sort of polish finish on them from the factory. After washing it tomorrow I was just going to spray the quick detail on the car and wipe it down with some mirco app. pads.... Plan on waxing my car @ the end of the month.<p><br>I also got this polish for chrome, alloy, metal called AUTOSOL. I know someone on here uses this... feedback! <p><br>Anyone use that new stuff called ICE... heard some great stuff about that.<p><br>ps- That racing thread I posted that had like 5 pages of replys got black holed <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Cheers Mate! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Washing my car for the 1st time.... HELP! (USAF 2010 T5)

Here's a little guide from a reputable detailer from another board I frequent. Pardon the cut/paste:<p>First, I'll tell you how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less. This does not include any polishing so this method won't correct any defects. However, if your car is in good condition already or you just want it clean and protected, this method is excellent.<p>Products you will need:<p>2 gallon capacity bucket<br>1 wash pad, I like to use chenille covered foam pads<br>4-5 16" x 16" microfiber towels<br>2-3 terry cloth or cotton towels<br>Wheel brush(s)<br>Tire protectant<br>Glass Cleaner<br>Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine: <A HREF="http://www.ecocarcare.net/no-rinse-wash-shine.php" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ecocarcare.net/no-rinse-wash-shine.php</A><br>Optimum Car Wax: <A HREF="http://www.ecocarcare.net/car-wax.php" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ecocarcare.net/car-wax.php</A><p>Steps:<p>1. Using a capful or approximately one half ounce of Optimum No Rinse (ONR), add it to one gallon of water in the bucket.<p>2. Clean your wheels, tires and fenderwells using the ONR mixture and your brushes, wipe dry with the terry cloth towels.<p>3. Dress the wheels and fenderwells with your tire dressing-and don't forget the fenderwells! Dirty fenderwells detract from an otherwise clean and shiny car!<p>The reason to do the wheels and fenderwells first is so when you apply the tire dressing, any overspray will be washed off the car during the washing step.<p>4. Empty out your bucket and refill with clean water, adding one half to one full ounce of ONR (less if relatively clean, more if really dirty).<p>5. Using a chenille covered foam pad or a wash mitt, wash one section of the car at a time and dry immediately using two microfiber towels, one for the first drying pass and making sure you leave a little moisture behind, use the other towel for a second drying pass. If you get the panel completely dry with the first towel, then don't go over it with the second towel because rubbing even a soft microfiber towel on dry paint can leave streaks.<p>Once you get the process down (it may take a couple washes to really nail it) you should be able to wash the body of your car in 20 minutes or less unless it is really filthy.<p>6. After washing open your doors, gas cap door and trunk or hatch and wipe down all the jambs.<p>7. Using Optimum Car Wax (OCW), spray onto a section at a time. Don't soak the panel, just a mist should do. Spread the wax over the panel, flip the towel and wipe to a haze free shine. If you can use a detail spray, you can use OCW, it is that easy. Depending on your area, wash habits, etc, you can expect 3-5 months durability. Honestly though, it is so easy to use you will probably use it every few washes. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do the whole car. In fact, you can also apply it as you dry each section when washing with ONR to save even more time, or apply while washing and apply a second coat for even better protection with very little additional time spent.<p>8. Clean your glass inside and out.<p>Stand back and admire your shiny car! Take pics and post them on OT!<p>There are several vendors who carry Optimum products, the one I would recommend first is <A HREF="http://www.exceldetail.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.exceldetail.com</A> because he is an OT member and I believe we should support each other, plus he ships very fast, has excellent customer service, is an all around nice guy and he also carries a fine selection of microfiber towels, the rest of the Optimum product line as well as Clearkote, Poorboys, 4 Star, Propel buffing pads, etc.<p>Another excellent vendor is <A HREF="http://www.pakshak.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.pakshak.com</A> or the <A HREF="http://www.ecocarcare.net" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ecocarcare.net</A> site, autogeek, etc.<p>-----------------------<p>-----------------------<p>Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide®<p>HARD SUPPLIES<p>- Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool<br>- Bucket<br>- Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally<br>- Chenille covered foam pads, or wash mitts<br>- Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles<br>- Terrycloth towels (wiping/drying inteior, wheels, tires, door jambs)<br>- Microfiber towels (washing, removing product)<br>- Foam applicators (wax application)<br>- California Car Duster<br>- Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents)<br>Optional for power buffing:<br>-Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 (same buffer, 7336 has a larger counterweight so it runs a bit more smoothly).<br>-An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse.<p>Detailing products<p>I have listed products I have personally used.<p>No Rinse Washing<p>Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine<p>Conventional Washing<p>Optimum Car Wash<br>Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash<br>Mothers California Car Wash<br>Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash<br>Kit Carnauba Wash<p>--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.<p>Drying<p>Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse.<p>Wheel Cleaners<p>Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.<p>Clay Bars<p>Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.<p>Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.<p>Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area.<p>Polishes and compounds<p>My favorite polishes and compounds are:<p>Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound<br>Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze<br>Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme<br>Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1)<br>Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish<p>Use by hand:<p>Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.<p>By Porter Cable polisher<p>Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.<p>Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.<p>Final Polishes and Glazes<p>You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.<p>Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish<br>Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze<br>Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)<br>Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba<br>Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong<br>Klasse All in One<p>Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.<p>Waxes<p>As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.<p>Clearkote Carnauba Moose<br>Optimum Car Wax<br>Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste<br>Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste<br>Collinite 845 Insulator Wax<br>P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!<br>Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications<br>Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba<p>Sealants<p>Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).<br>Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba<br>Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket<br>4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection<br>Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5<br>Klasse Sealant Glaze<br>Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant<p>Quick Detail Sprays<p>You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.<p>Clearkote's Quikshine<br>Poorboy's Spray and Gloss<br>Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant<br>Meguiars #34 Final Inspection<br>Zaino Z-6 or Z-8<br>Wax Shop's Slick Stuff<p>Interior Cleaning Products<p>I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.<p>Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.<p>Interior Protectants<p>Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-<p>Optimum Protectant Plus<br>Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant<br>Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing<br>Armor All Original Shine<br>303<br>Vinylex<p>Leather-<p>Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner<br>Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner<br>Tanner's Preserves<br>Lexol<br>Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)<p><br>Miscellaneous<p>Glass cleaners:<p>Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner<br>Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner<br>Stoners Invisible Glass<p>Tire/fenderwell dressing:<p>Armor All Original Shine<br>Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing<br>Optimum Tire Shine<br>Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)<p>Trim dressing:<p>Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel<br>Poorboy's Trim Restorer<br>Mothers Back to Black<p>Engine Cleaning<p>1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.<p>** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **<p>2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.<p>3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.<p>4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.<p>5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.<p>6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.<p>7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.<p>-------------------<p>-------------------<p>In addition, there is a detailing specific forum called Autopia- <A HREF="http://autopia.org" TARGET="_blank">http://autopia.org</A><p>Please do not e-mail or PM me detailing questions, post them in our forum or in this thread and PM me the link only.<p>Videos of me using Optimum No Rinse:<p><A HREF="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYOAyxsEIuQ" TARGET="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYOAyxsEIuQ</A><p><A HREF="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZQbMHLG_DI" TARGET="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZQbMHLG_DI</A>
 

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IF anyone is in the DFW area, he does amazing work from what I've seen. A lot of people on that board use him to detail their cars, and he does a lot of high end stuff, with a large customer base. (I hope he doesn't mind me posting his guide on here)
 

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too much text <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>just give me your car (keys and registration) and I will *ahem* <i>wash</i> it for you *ahem* <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (crossie)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>crossie</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">too much text <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>just give me your car (keys and registration) and I will *ahem* <i>wash</i> it for you *ahem* <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>You're crazy Martin <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <p><br>- That Optimum No Rinse stuff looks dope! Watched some youtube videos of it.
 

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Re: (crossie)

Yeah, that's a big wall of text. Sorry. It's pretty basic if you read 1-7. The rest doesn't really pertain to the subject at hand.<p>My bad.<br>
 

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Re: Washing my car for the 1st time.... HELP! (USAF 2010 T5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>USAF 2010 T5</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ps- That racing thread I posted that had like 5 pages of replys got black holed <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I thought black holed was when no one could post to it anymore. Your thread got straight-up deleted! However... <A HREF="http://www.google.com/custom?hl=en&cof=&domains=forums.swedespeed.com&q=s40+raced&sitesearch=forums.swedespeed.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.google.com/custom?h...d.com</A> Google cache FTW!
 

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Re: Washing my car for the 1st time.... HELP! (mattdoc)

I can't view the cached version either, lol. Not like I am missing much though, just a pissin match and fish stories. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Washing my car for the 1st time.... HELP! (USAF 2010 T5)

I'd say the biggest thing is don't rush. Take your time and you'll do a good job. Since your car is fresh, you probably don't need to clay or polish it. I'd put the car in the shade, rinse it down, and then wash it. Use two sponges/pads, one for the top 2/3 of the car, and one for the front bumper and lower trim (and sometimes the wheels if not their own rag). Don't spray the car with the hose, use low pressure to 'sheet' the car or a clean bucket with clean water pouring carefully. If you're lazy and want the quick but good wax job, spray wax would be fine, otherwise use the lotion. My materials:<p>- Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash<br>- Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Kit<br>- Eagle 1 Nanowax (Spray, I'm lazy/tired by the time I get to this step)<br>- A dozen assorted towels, terry cloths, large and small microfiber cloths<p>Congrats on your new car! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (BtownVolvo)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>BtownVolvo</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You just got your car right?<p>Do NOT wax it. Paint is probably still curing. Wax it in 3 months IIRC.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>+1 read the owners manual <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (volvosince16)

I use 2 buckets as per my detailer's orders. One with soap for washing and one with clean water for rinsing the mitt after every time it touches the car. This really helps prevent scratching/fine lines in the clear coat. ALWAYS dry the car off when your done. My wheel sponge never touches the water and soap that will be going on the paint and never touches any part of the car but the wheels. I'm extremely picky about my car and a few preventive measures while washing go a long way <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"><p>That turtle wax ice stuff isn't the best wax option, it's good for the lazy though!
 

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Re: (Moofluffen)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Moofluffen</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>That turtle wax ice stuff isn't the best wax option, it's good for the lazy though! </TD></TR></TABLE><p>YES something i can use !!!
 

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Re: (jdsr917)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>jdsr917</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>YES something i can use !!!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Hahaha right on <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
<b>HOW DO YOU TAKE THE UGLY ASS RUST OF THE ROTORS!!!!?????????? </B><p><br>
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
^you're right!^<p>LOL....yep mr dumb ass right here
 

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Re: (USAF 2010 T5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>USAF 2010 T5</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><b>HOW DO YOU TAKE THE UGLY ASS RUST OF THE ROTORS!!!!?????????? </B><p><br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>True story here a while back some one else asked this after they had sprayed them with WD-40 and that didn't work..........
 

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Re: (USAF 2010 T5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>USAF 2010 T5</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><b>HOW DO YOU TAKE THE UGLY ASS RUST OF THE ROTORS!!!!?????????? </B><p><br></TD></TR></TABLE><p><br>Your posts make me laugh <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"><p>It's just oxidization from the soap on your rotors. It'll be gone the second you hit the brakes.
 
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