[wagonenjoyer]

In an effort to reduce my spam in multiple different threads, I’m going to document my build/questions in this one . I have a 2005 Volvo V70 2.5t that I bought for $1900 with plethora of problems. I‘m 18 and still in high school, so with this being my first car (that I bought, have a hand me down 04 Camry XLE too) it is most definitely a learning process. Thus far, I have replaced the 2 rear wheel hub bearings because one was unfathomably demolished and I figured I’d hit two birds with one stone. Next up, did some interior work in replacing the destroyed front seat, broken rear seatbelts with a whole new rear row (got the cargo net too which is awesome), and other misc little things. Then a coil pack gave out giving me my first big scare. That was replaced, I still need to get the other 4 done but coils are a bit expensive for now. ABS light came and went but now lives on my dash, so if anyone has ideas for that, they are appreciated. After a heavy deep clean, the guy before me really liked sunflower seeds, I have begun to replace old, failing parts with their performance counterparts. This past weekend I did Poly Upper engine bushing and a new mount, lower Poly transmission bushings with a new mount, and poly subframe bushings. Each part is from IPD. Thus brings me to my first question, I am aware of the preexisting vibration problem the v70 has and I know I have only made it worse with the poly parts (but race car), so I was wondering how I could reduce that? As of now my car experiences earthquakes (ironic as I’m in California) in reverse and at idle in drive. It’s cool to feel the firing order at stop signs, but it gets old after a while and my dad complains every time he‘s in my car haha. Let me know if you have any comments/suggestions/etc.

 

[NTXC]

You may want to replace the engine mounts, specifically the one near the timing belt is known to exacerbate vibrations if it’s collapse. Pretty easy replacement as well.

If that doesn’t knock it down to acceptable levels it’s definitely the poly upper. Put a washer on each side (inside the holder) and it’ll quiet down a bit.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Replace and use P2R hydraulic motor mounts.

 

[DFrantz]

One thing you can do for the coils is to check if there is a pull a part yard. It's not an uncommon fix for a DIYer in attempts to keep an old car on the road, but it might be that next thing that sends it to the bone yard.

ABS could be the module... which is scary expensive... but there are some good YT videos on how to fix them, normally it's a bad solder joint... I would personally recommend getting VIDA on a computer with a DICE unit to be able to pull codes. It really does make things much easier than guessing on some things and hoping. The ABS module is really easy to replace if that's what it is... but you don't want to have to pay for a new one if you can at all avoid it. Would be silly to pull the module if it's just a wheel speed sensor, not that I haven't done it.

Congrats on the project wagon though! My first car was a project wagon as well, and it's been a fun experience and culture ever since.

 

[TurboV70GLT]

In an effort to reduce my spam in multiple different threads, I’m going to document my build/questions in this one . I have a 2005 Volvo V70 2.5t that I bought for $1900 with plethora of problems. I‘m 18 and still in high school, so with this being my first car (that I bought, have a hand me down 04 Camry XLE too) it is most definitely a learning process. Thus far, I have replaced the 2 rear wheel hub bearings because one was unfathomably demolished and I figured I’d hit two birds with one stone. Next up, did some interior work in replacing the destroyed front seat, broken rear seatbelts with a whole new rear row (got the cargo net too which is awesome), and other misc little things. Then a coil pack gave out giving me my first big scare. That was replaced, I still need to get the other 4 done but coils are a bit expensive for now. ABS light came and went but now lives on my dash, so if anyone has ideas for that, they are appreciated. After a heavy deep clean, the guy before me really liked sunflower seeds, I have begun to replace old, failing parts with their performance counterparts. This past weekend I did Poly Upper engine bushing and a new mount, lower Poly transmission bushings with a new mount, and poly subframe bushings. Each part is from IPD. Thus brings me to my first question, I am aware of the preexisting vibration problem the v70 has and I know I have only made it worse with the poly parts (but race car), so I was wondering how I could reduce that? As of now my car experiences earthquakes (ironic as I’m in California) in reverse and at idle in drive. It’s cool to feel the firing order at stop signs, but it gets old after a while and my dad complains every time he‘s in my car haha. Let me know if you have any comments/suggestions/etc.

Me likey Volvo Wagons but I would say 100% stoked to see where this goes. As you probably know junkyard parts are a must for Volvos save yourself some money

 

[FredH]

I you removed an ABS sensor as part of work so far, blow out the crud that falls into the sensor's bolt hole and prevents the sensor from being fully seated. BTDT

 

[wagonenjoyer]

I you removed an ABS sensor as part of work so far, blow out the crud that falls into the sensor's bolt hole and prevents the sensor from being fully seated. BTDT

Thinking about it, a sensor seems to make the most sense. There’s been multiple occasions where the light is off until I start moving. That leads me to believe one of my wheel speed sensors are wobbling around with room to work every once in a while but when I move it falls away and disables the whole system. I’ll check it out sometime soon and update this

 

[sj6289900]

How many miles are on the car? When was the timing belt replaced? If you don't know if and when it was done you need to do now. I would hate for you to sink a lot of your time and money, only to have the belt break and destroy the engine, and IT will if it breaks.

 

[barstow]

In an effort to reduce my spam in multiple different threads, I’m going to document my build/questions in this one . I have a 2005 Volvo V70 2.5t that I bought for $1900 with plethora of problems. I‘m 18 and still in high school, so with this being my first car (that I bought, have a hand me down 04 Camry XLE too) it is most definitely a learning process. Thus far, I have replaced the 2 rear wheel hub bearings because one was unfathomably demolished and I figured I’d hit two birds with one stone. Next up, did some interior work in replacing the destroyed front seat, broken rear seatbelts with a whole new rear row (got the cargo net too which is awesome), and other misc little things. Then a coil pack gave out giving me my first big scare. That was replaced, I still need to get the other 4 done but coils are a bit expensive for now. ABS light came and went but now lives on my dash, so if anyone has ideas for that, they are appreciated. After a heavy deep clean, the guy before me really liked sunflower seeds, I have begun to replace old, failing parts with their performance counterparts. This past weekend I did Poly Upper engine bushing and a new mount, lower Poly transmission bushings with a new mount, and poly subframe bushings. Each part is from IPD. Thus brings me to my first question, I am aware of the preexisting vibration problem the v70 has and I know I have only made it worse with the poly parts (but race car), so I was wondering how I could reduce that? As of now my car experiences earthquakes (ironic as I’m in California) in reverse and at idle in drive. It’s cool to feel the firing order at stop signs, but it gets old after a while and my dad complains every time he‘s in my car haha. Let me know if you have any comments/suggestions/etc.

I have four good used coil packs from my 2007 V70 2.5T if you want them for the cost of shipping. Could send them in January when I get them from storage. Good luck with your V70!

 

[wagonenjoyer]

How many miles are on the car? When was the timing belt replaced? If you don't know if and when it was done you need to do now. I would hate for you to sink a lot of your time and money, only to have the belt break and destroy the engine, and IT will if it breaks.

Should probably get that done, at almost 135k don’t know if the guy prior had done it. I’ll check the records and get on that.

 

[wagonenjoyer]

I have four good used coil packs from my 2007 V70 2.5T if you want them for the cost of shipping. Could send them in January when I get them from storage. Good luck with your V70!

I may take you up on that offer

 

[dcswan]

Replace and use P2R hydraulic motor mounts.

Curious, what's the difference with the R hydraulic motor mounts? Drop in fit for other P2 models?

 

[barstow]

I may take you up on that offer

Send me a PM if you want them.

 

[NTXC]

Curious, what's the difference with the R hydraulic motor mounts? Drop in fit for other P2 models?

I’m interested in the distinction as well

 

[wagonenjoyer]

I’m interested in the distinction as well

I second that

 

[wagonenjoyer]

California's experiencing some heavy rain as of late and I finally fell prey to a hydroplaning incident. Getting off the freeway into a somewhat sharp turn at around 35mph (and decelerating), front end kicked out over a little bump Managed to mostly save it and smacked the rear end into a guardrail. Anyways, that's repairable to some extent and not the end of the world but no I'm having issues with the key not wanting to come out of the ignition cylinder. It eventually complies after a minute of fiddling with it, but I'm curious if that has anything to do with that incident. It seems to directly correlate but I could be wrong.

 

[wagonenjoyer]

Also any idea how to fix this? Was thinking to take the pillar off and use fabric glue to reapply the cloth to it

 

[wagonenjoyer]

I fixed the key/transmission issue, I have no idea how to thoroughly explain what I did so it will be in caveman terms to most. Basically I took off the driver's side panel exposing the shift assembly. That led me to a wire (coming from the key/ignition area) connected to a yellow safety switch at the base of the assembly. My problem was that the safety switch wasn't fully engaging, therefore giving me issues with the car not wanting to shift out of park or letting the key out when I needed to take it out leaving me late to school and sports practices numerous times . The connection from the wire to that yellow thing is threaded and had moved, so I threaded it a little bit farther to allow for the yellow switch to initiate where it was supposed to, which worked flawlessly. Planning on working on those cloth pillars next.

 

[Brett San Diego]

Often interior cloth materials have a foam backing on them (headliner material for sure). It's not the adhesive that fails but the foam that disintegrates leading to fabric separation. I don't know exactly what the pillar liner material is, but I can see some orange stuff in your picture, which looks like foam residue. My point is without that foam, you may not be able to make it a perfect repair even if you glue it back. You may have a ridge line along the border of the original foam where it hasn't separated, and it could be difficult to avoid wrinkles because the foam backing supports the material and prevents it from stretching out, but the foam is now gone. But, give it a whirl. Use some spray contact adhesive (3M 77 adhesive should be fine), and work the material back onto the pillar doing your best to avoid wrinkles.

Bummer on the shunt into the guardrail. But, hey, an opportunity to learn another facet of automotive restoration, paint and body. Looks like there's a sharp crease with cracked paint, so unfortunately paintless dent removal (PDR) is out of the question. Good PDR guys can do some amazing stuff, but all bets are off as soon as the paint is cracked.

Brett

 

[wagonenjoyer]

Often interior cloth materials have a foam backing on them (headliner material for sure). It's not the adhesive that fails but the foam that disintegrates leading to fabric separation. I don't know exactly what the pillar liner material is, but I can see some orange stuff in your picture, which looks like foam residue. My point is without that foam, you may not be able to make it a perfect repair even if you glue it back. You may have a ridge line along the border of the original foam where it hasn't separated, and it could be difficult to avoid wrinkles because the foam backing supports the material and prevents it from stretching out, but the foam is now gone. But, give it a whirl. Use some spray contact adhesive (3M 77 adhesive should be fine), and work the material back onto the pillar doing your best to avoid wrinkles.

Bummer on the shunt into the guardrail. But, hey, an opportunity to learn another facet of automotive restoration, paint and body. Looks like there's a sharp crease with cracked paint, so unfortunately paintless dent removal (PDR) is out of the question. Good PDR guys can do some amazing stuff, but all bets are off as soon as the paint is cracked.

Brett

haha, had the same idea earlier this morning, came out pretty well I think. In regards to the PDR stuff, it'll have to take a backseat for the moment as it isn't a problem other than cosmetics. I have bigger fish to fry aka the timing belt. Anyways, hope the rain isn't hitting you guys too hard down there, stay safe!