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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Let give a late intro into my Volvo ownership experience. So, I have been on swedespeed, volvospeed, volvo-forums and other places since 2007 when I bought my first Volvo. I have always been hovering without registering here, but finally did. I had an 850 T, that I tuned decently well for a guy in his garage. I fell in love with that car, and it eventually hit it's demise when the oil pump rod fell into the motor and shredding a piston. I did not feel like rebuilding the motor, and the body was last on the list, and decided to part it out. I have owned and built rock buggies(Jeep XJ's) for years, and do all work myself. Motor swaps, complete suspension fabrication as I weld. All in, I can do it.

Moving on. Car:
2004 V70R GT - bought with 143k
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I had been on both sides of the car biz for many years until 09, but despite that, had never seen a P2 R traded, I had always wanted one, but it was never the right time. Since 07 until two years ago, I still would search from time to time to find one. My Allroad was pissing me off, and I couldn't get the tune I wanted for a small enough outlay. So I kept searching. I finally found one at a small indy dealer here in Denver. I showed up, it wouldn't start, was a bit rough but not enough to where I would walk away. BTW, previous owner had repo'd the car, and did not take care of many maintenance fixes that would have left this car in way better shape.

Got it started and drove it, to find out that it would stall frequently. Dealer told me he had replaced fuel pump, to no avail and could not get it to run well. I did a thorough check over, and noticed it started to leak coolant. I checked oil to see it either had a PCV problem or blown head gasket. I showed the dealer, and offered $3500 OTD. Knowing it probably had a head gasket, I had it towed to my old indy, and it had a turbo coolant line causing the leak, and the PCV needed to be reworked. He also stated he thought the tank was dirty, pump was incorrect pump, or poorly installed and needed to yank tank. Car ran okay until a 1/4 tank, than would piss out.

Replacement/fixes since April '14(mostly insignificant):
PCV system replaced
Turbo line
Fuel Tank dr side gasket/o ring
Slid into a guard rail in snow storm to the tune of $6700 insurance paid
All ignition coils
Plugs
3x - Strut spring seats, pass side (bought the aftermarket, against read advice here, now have XC90's)
Strut bearing
'06 S60R transfer case following an angle gear failure, had 30k on clock
Radiator
Intercooler pressure sensor
Dr CV shaft
Yanked silencer due to drive shaft rub
Saggy bumper aluminum brace
Both headlamp lenses - Eurosporttuning models

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Needed or in the works repairs:
Fuel pump
Possible struts (probably keeping 4C for now, need to convince wife coil overs are needed, she likes comfort)
Camber bushings
LCA's
Sway bar links
Tie rod ends
Subframe mounts
Tranny and motor mounts
Catalytic convertor
O2(s) due to cat
Haldex flush
Interior issues like worn console etc.
E-brake issue

Most of the following have occurred or will following all the required maintenance issues this car has. 150k makes this thing in dire need of drive-ability solutions first.

Unnecessary NECESSARY:D fixes/builds:
TME springs
Stoptech rotors - Akebono pads
STI lip
Winter wheels - Stock Pegs
235/45ZR17 Nitto Nt555

Upcoming/changes already begun:
STR 606 wheels - 18x9 +35
Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires 245/40R18
Wheels have been a gross search and lengthy researched topic. I finally landed on STR 606 gold mesh wheels as I like the older school look. I am nervous as to how they will look, as I have only found 1-2 R's with gold mesh wheels. We shall see once I get the alignment following LCA's.

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Rolled fenders(may pull them as well soon)
FMIC - I am building my own from a top mount STI intercooler I have acquired from a friend. Learning to weld aluminum.
Need to install VIDA on my old laptop
LCA's should arrive monday from IPD as well as sway links and ball joints
Electric Fuel Pump?...
Injectors
Coil overs...

This car has been a joy to drive, and I do not plan on ever selling it. I spent 10 years trying to find one. I scored it cheap which, in the end went to getting shat fixed, made for a good step to the P2 cars. They are a PITA, but fun to get running well, and decently quick from factory spec. I do not plan to make this thing an autocrosser, however, the plan is make this MY style of an R that has a decent balance of power, comfort, and style. I always read every post daily, I do not spend much time posting but more time reading and working. I rarely snap photos during a build or tune as they have all been done before me. I prefer not to clutter forums, but add good info. So I hope to update this post as time rolls by. It may not be often, but when more prolific changes occur, I will post them. Feel free to give me heat, be annoying like a lot of forums, or provide good feedback, criticism, and advice. I will say this thing may turn into a ridiculous project, as many Jeeps followed the same track record of a capable rig turned rocker...

Sneak of the 996 Turbo and the last rig...
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What a story...

Not sure if it was intentional, but the images are rather small. Did you perhaps imbed the thumbnail rather than full-size images?
 

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Don't do coilovers... It defeats the purpose of the car. Fuel pump is 04 specific from my research so we're both in the shell out for blue box Volvo club lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
What a story...

Not sure if it was intentional, but the images are rather small. Did you perhaps imbed the thumbnail rather than full-size images?
Definitely intentional. Did not want to post a mile long photo stream haha. I certainly have the links to full size images if needed.

Don't do coilovers... It defeats the purpose of the car. Fuel pump is 04 specific from my research so we're both in the shell out for blue box Volvo club lol.
Agreed, sort of. 4C is awesome, IMO, but the crashing gets old. If I want to go super low, I will do coilovers. With regard to pump, the original unit is crucial, however, I do not think mine is bad. I think the collector from the driver side of tank is clogged. The gauge sensor is also probably badly corroded giving the incorrect levels. The pump has just been on the end of my list. At 1/4 tank, after turning right, the car will run into issues stalling. OTW, runs great.
 

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Definitely intentional. Did not want to post a mile long photo stream haha. I certainly have the links to full size images if needed.



Agreed, sort of. 4C is awesome, IMO, but the crashing gets old. If I want to go super low, I will do coilovers. With regard to pump, the original unit is crucial, however, I do not think mine is bad. I think the collector from the driver side of tank is clogged. The gauge sensor is also probably badly corroded giving the incorrect levels. The pump has just been on the end of my list. At 1/4 tank, after turning right, the car will run into issues stalling. OTW, runs great.
When you get VIDA working check the fuel pump duty cycle. If you need help with VIDA let me know...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When you get VIDA working check the fuel pump duty cycle. If you need help with VIDA let me know...
Most definitely will. Much appreciated.
 

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I like your choice of wheels, as a fellow gold-wheeler. I was also thinking about getting a similar set of 2-piece wheels next summer, but am interested in going with a different more off-the-wall color.
 

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I like this pic: Jameson?

I prefer not to clutter forums, but add good info.
And your comment is most noteworthy. Too much spam is bantered about in threads nowadays, like a contest for who has the most posts.

Good luck with your VR!
Wagons rule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I like this pic: Jameson?


And your comment is most noteworthy. Too much spam is bantered about in threads nowadays, like a contest for who has the most posts.

Good luck with your VR!
Wagons rule.
Ha good catch, from a different post. But nope, Deerhammer Downtime Colorado whiskey. Good stuff. And yeah, I just think peeps spend too much time trying to be noticed and most posted.
Wagons are what' up. Fact.

DevolvR - I have seen this rig many times online, about one of the only gold wheel'd VR's. Solid on Works.

Gold wheels look great IMO on the right car, but not on all. For sure.
 

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Ha good catch, from a different post. But nope, Deerhammer Downtime Colorado whiskey. Good stuff. And yeah, I just think peeps spend too much time trying to be noticed and most posted.
Wagons are what' up. Fact.

DevolvR - I have seen this rig many times online, about one of the only gold wheel'd VR's. Solid on Works.

Gold wheels look great IMO on the right car, but not on all. For sure.
just used that as an example of the visual concept. Several members here in the past have put gold wheels on their Rs, Patrick21 from TWMPerformance comes to mind, but I can't find a lot of his old pictures anymore. he sold his R several years ago. But he ran the exact same wheels Work VS-XX with adapters with a staggered wheel widths. Looked great.


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I received my wheels, and I will not re-post that info here since it is my wheel thread. Basically, the wheels do not clear the caliper, and I sort of expected that. But now I have figure out the correct spacer to fit these without a huge poke. I went 18x9 +35(which will turn into close to 10 after correct spacers) all the way around as opposed to staggered, probably a good thing in the end.

Next:
Find measurements, or measure up and chalk the stance front and rear.
Measure gap to hub for correct spacer width, front and rear.

Install:
IPD:
Front control arms
Sway bar end links
Ball joints
Strut bearing - pass.
STI lip

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did a few things on the R tonight. LCA's, sway links, ball joints and STI lip. Still have to mate caps to lip ends, and convert the screws to nuts and bolts. Any tips on the cap adhesion would be appreciated. And...had to grind off one of the stupid torx held links. Lame design lame design. And ipd's Allen key isn't much better either.














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Did a few things on the R tonight. LCA's, sway links, ball joints and STI lip. Still have to mate caps to lip ends, and convert the screws to nuts and bolts. Any tips on the cap adhesion would be appreciated. And...had to grind off one of the stupid torx held links. Lame design lame design. And ipd's Allen key isn't much better either.














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Patiently awaiting an answer for the open ends on the lip. It bothers the crap out of me seeing them open.

Did you end up trimming the bottom of the lip at all? I know on mine the bottom of the side fins angled up so I trimmed about an inch off to make the bottoms level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Patiently awaiting an answer for the open ends on the lip. It bothers the crap out of me seeing them open.

Did you end up trimming the bottom of the lip at all? I know on mine the bottom of the side fins angled up so I trimmed about an inch off to make the bottoms level.
If you are speaking about the ends/corners of bumper below the corner light, I rotated the lip towards the underside of the bumper. By doing this, the lip was able to rotate to a "level" bottom/base. I didn't have to trim at all actually. I only used the screws that came with the lip, and this weekend when I mount adapters and wheels, I will go back around it and convert to bolts and nuts. This way, it will be a bit more tough. I may buy a plastic welder, or use plastic super glue for the end caps. It is super annoying with them open.

http://www.theinsertcompany.com/insert_images/con_bolt_flat_stst.png
 

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Very nice S204 lip, looks familiar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Very nice S204 lip, looks familiar.
Yes sir! Good stuff. For so cheap, I would buy another 3 of them and practice plasti dipping and paint work!
 

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Yes sir! Good stuff. For so cheap, I would buy another 3 of them and practice plasti dipping and paint work!
I had the EST-style lip previously (fiberglass) and it was expensive and I broke it off driving through a ditch. It looked a little nicer and was designed for the car so it fit perfectly, but this one is close enough and plus it's like a third of the price and I've knocked a few curbs with it and it just flexes and shrugs it off and doesn't shatter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had the EST-style lip previously (fiberglass) and it was expensive and I broke it off driving through a ditch. It looked a little nicer and was designed for the car so it fit perfectly, but this one is close enough and plus it's like a third of the price and I've knocked a few curbs with it and it just flexes and shrugs it off and doesn't shatter.
No doubt. I think this lip, like you said, may not fit perfectly. But it is good enough that only a trained eye would catch. I can deal with that for $87.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Let's just say I have some fender work and some camber adjustment to do. The wheels clear the calipers now by a few mm. The adapters are 25mm. Effective offset of +10. It's a ridiculous amount. But with some fender pulling and rolling, and some secret front fender plans this weekend, it should come out better looking than this video game stance.









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