SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I'm contemplating picking up a VR. I'd like to use it as my DD, but am wondering if at this point in the R's age that would be asking too much. I love wagons, I love the P2 VRs. Seems like no one makes anything like it anymore. I don't mind budgeting around $200/mo. in maintenance or for mods. I can turn wrenches for most jobs myself. I just don't care to have a car that has to spend more time in a shop/on stands than on the road. Am I asking too much?

Looking for opinions, the more educated the better.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,571 Posts
I DD my V70R and it has 289850 miles... I'd say $200/month for maintenance is a very good number.

There's really nothing that will fail on the car that will make it truly undriveable aside from a failed clutch, cracked cylinder, failed fuel pump, really broken ETM, more than 2 failed coils, or massive vacuum leak. If the thing starts it'll keep on going... it just might not be happy about it.

The biggest weakpoints in the P2R are the struts, clutch slave on the MT cars, valve body on the 06 GT cars, angle gear (like any 5 cyl AWD Volvo), spring seats (like every 850-P80-P2 Volvo ever...), and DEM/haldex pump.

As long as you're willing to preemptively spend money you should be ok. However, you might want to pick up an XC70/V70XC/S60 for the rare occasion something bad happens.

The PO of my R drove it a lot. In the last 42 weeks I have put 10k on it and that includes not driving during the winter... The on;y things that have gone wrong are an ETM failure, broken axle bolt that I broke, new rear struts, a wheel bearing, and a bolt fell out of the propshaft. The struts and wheel bearing I knew were going so it wasn't a surprise. If you do buy a P2R get VIDA. It will make your life far easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Vida/DICE is the first thing on the list after picking up a VR. Most all the stuff you mentioned doesn't seem unreasonable. I'm not familiar with ETM. What does that stand for?? I've been lurking for several months reading just about every thread posted about these caRs, and realize what I'm getting into. I just didn't see a lot of members posting whether their Rs were DDs or just project cars that aren't driven much. Do the replacement 06+ valve bodies correct the issue, or will the problem just repeat itself eventually?

Another question. Can a cracked block be sleeved, say with Dartons, or can any block only be sleeved preemptively? I've thought about picking up an extra motor and building that up before the in car motor cracks, assuming I have that luxury of time, to minimize the down time. But on the other hand would it be more prudent to just wait until the one in car goes, and just rebuild that motor?

I've tried talking my wife into an XC70, but she's pretty determined that if she gets into a Volvo, it's to be an XC90.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,571 Posts
Vida/DICE is the first thing on the list after picking up a VR. Most all the stuff you mentioned doesn't seem unreasonable. I'm not familiar with ETM. What does that stand for?? I've been lurking for several months reading just about every thread posted about these caRs, and realize what I'm getting into. I just didn't see a lot of members posting whether their Rs were DDs or just project cars that aren't driven much. Do the replacement 06+ valve bodies correct the issue, or will the problem just repeat itself eventually?

Another question. Can a cracked block be sleeved, say with Dartons, or can any block only be sleeved preemptively? I've thought about picking up an extra motor and building that up before the in car motor cracks, assuming I have that luxury of time, to minimize the down time. But on the other hand would it be more prudent to just wait until the one in car goes, and just rebuild that motor?

I've tried talking my wife into an XC70, but she's pretty determined that if she gets into a Volvo, it's to be an XC90.

Yeah, a cracked block can be sleeved. It's pricey though... ETM is electronic throttle module (well technically it's an electronic throttle actuator in the R) they don't really fail anymore unless you're in a very high mileage car.

The updated valve bodies fix it.

One other thing with the R is they exhibit premature seat bolster wear so when you look at a car check the stitching on the drivers side seat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,055 Posts
For $200 a month you should be able to keep it running for as long as fuel is available for it, lol. ;)

I just got done completely rebuilding my motor and the front half of the 4C system, and if I divide the costs over the period since I last had a payment or serious maintenance its only a little over $100 a month.

As far as what's involved in a quality sleeved rebuild, just check out my overhaul thread via the link in my sig.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So sleeving a cracked block any more expensive that sleeving a non cracked block??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For $200 a month you should be able to keep it running for as long as fuel is available for it, lol. ;)

I just got done completely rebuilding my motor and the front half of the 4C system, and if I divide the costs over the period since I last had a payment or serious maintenance its only a little over $100 a month.

As far as what's involved in a quality sleeved rebuild, just check out my overhaul thread via the link in my sig.
Stealthy, your rebuild thread has been an inspiration!! I've read the WHOLE thing more than once. I don't have the tools to do all the work myself, let alone the know how. But I'm sure I could put in a reasonable amount of "sweat equity" into a rebuild. Part of the reason I was thinking about just sleeving a spare motor was to be able to take the time to do most of it myself and learn as I go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
So sleeving a cracked block any more expensive that sleeving a non cracked block??

Sleeving a block involves machining out the mid deck cylinder walls, then pressing in a set of darton sleves. It doesn't mater if the original walls are cracked or not, they get machined out anyways
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
758 Posts
It is the same price.
I have been using my car as daily driver for 255k miles since I bought it new in 2004. But I had to learn how to fix it myself to keep driving it at a reasonable cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
+1, another VR DD here. Keep up on that proactive maintenance and it's fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,678 Posts
I'm DDing mine, though I kind of wish I had an auto car for DD duties, considering the recent changes in traffic around here....

It honestly hasn't been that bad to take care of, especially if you do the minor stuff yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
And be sure to budget yourself not just cash for repairs, but time! A weekend day or two a month.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cool. So all these responses seem to be validating what I suspected (and hoped!). Looks like a VR is in my future!! For those of you who row, how often (generally speaking) do you replace your clutch/TB/PP/FW & slave cylinder?? And typically what's the cost in parts/labor??
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,701 Posts
It is the same price.
I have been using my car as daily driver for 255k miles since I bought it new in 2004. But I had to learn how to fix it myself to keep driving it at a reasonable cost.
YES!! An original owneR! Awesome!

OP - I DD my SR and have been since 2010. Like most have said, as long as you are replacing items as they are starting to go bad instead of after they've failed, you'll find the R to be very reliable and very enjoyable to own. Over the last 5 years, I've replaced/repaired:

(Off the top of my head) PCV System, Wheel Bearings, Ignition Cylinder, Brake Pads, Parking Brake Pads, Axle Bolts, Timing Belt & Water Pump, Spring Seats & Strut Bearings, Tie Rod Ends, Fuel Pressure Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, Boost Pressure Sensor, Throttle Body Cleaning, Spark Plugs & Coils, and Turbo Control Valve. Also, the standard filters and fluids. In that time, I've been stranded once (Ignition Cylinder Failed) and almost stranded once (Sensor Issue). I still have the throttle body problem hanging around, but I'm going to let that one linger because it has almost no effect on me since I drive the caR in manual mode. I don't have my records in front of me to give an accurate cost, but I'd estimate all of that around $4k-$5k over 5 years, in part because half of it was done by the dealer :)facepalm:). That's easily under your $200/mo. Even if I added in the throttle body and a suspension refresh, I'd still be under your maintenance budget. The key to keeping costs down will be DIY projects, but as I've shown, even if you can't do the big projects, you can still make it work.

Good luck on your search!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
I use my V70R as a daily car, nothing major has gone wrong on it in 6 or so months. It's on 100k miles now so a few bits do need replacing but a lot is just general up keep as on any car. Ready for new tyres brakes and front suspension, they do cost a good bit more than on a basic car but it's worth it when you put your foot down and have 300bhp raring to go. Can't wait to try it out in the snow this winter. I'd say go get one!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,571 Posts
Cool. So all these responses seem to be validating what I suspected (and hoped!). Looks like a VR is in my future!! For those of you who row, how often (generally speaking) do you replace your clutch/TB/PP/FW & slave cylinder?? And typically what's the cost in parts/labor??

$1500 every 120k for struts and LCAs, 2k for a clutch/flywheel when it fails. $300 for an ETM whenever it fails. Angle gear collar/reseal every 100kish, $200 timing belt every 120k miles or 10 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
861 Posts
Cool. So all these responses seem to be validating what I suspected (and hoped!). Looks like a VR is in my future!! For those of you who row, how often (generally speaking) do you replace your clutch/TB/PP/FW & slave cylinder?? And typically what's the cost in parts/labor??
The wife daily drove our VR MT for the first 7 years / 95K miles and now I drive it daily (she moved into a BMW Z4 automatic due to her knees hurting and not being able to work the R's clutch). It currently has 106K and it's on the original clutch. I replaced front struts, spring seats, etc. several years ago and I'm now getting close to replacing front control arms/bushings/tie rod ends. Other than that, not really much in maintenance beyond oil changes, brake pads when they wear out, and radiator and brake fluid flush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,055 Posts
Stealthy, your rebuild thread has been an inspiration!! I've read the WHOLE thing more than once. I don't have the tools to do all the work myself, let alone the know how. But I'm sure I could put in a reasonable amount of "sweat equity" into a rebuild. Part of the reason I was thinking about just sleeving a spare motor was to be able to take the time to do most of it myself and learn as I go.
Thanks man, its sometimes nerve wracking as you to contemplate all the different ways you can screw up a job like this, but as long as you can be methodical its not that hard to avoid all of the potential pitfalls. Also keep in mind I went way overboard on my project due to an abundance of time, so there are easier paths to sleevedom than my own, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,055 Posts
PS - I also got about 145K miles out of my original clutch. Might have been able to make it longer since it still worked great, but my slave cylinder failed first.
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top