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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Volvo XC90 & S80 V8 - How-To: Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys Replacement

Parts:
Volvo Drive Belt Idler Pulley - 31216198 - Qty. 2
Volvo Automatic Belt Tensioner Assembly - 31216199 - Qty. 1 (Comes with Tension Holder In-Place)
Volvo Serpentine Belt - 8653617 - Qty. 1

20160620_140206.jpg


Tools:
Serpentine Belt Tool (Two Piece with 3/8" & 1/2" Drive)
T30 Torx
8mm, 10mm Sockets
Shallow 12mm, 14mm Sockets - 3/8" Drive
Shallow 19mm (12 pt) Socket - 1/2" Drive (6 Pt is preferred, but 12 Pt made it easier to line up how I wanted it)
12mm, 14mm Wrench
5/16" ID Hose & Plug
10mm Long Arm Allen Wrench and/or 10mm Allen Stub Socket (May Need to Cut 1/4" - 1/2" Off End) - I used a Husky brand wrench Model # HLAHKM13PC from Home Depot and did not have to cut it
Pipe, Large Adjustable Wrench, Long Handled Pliers, etc (Something to Leverage Allen Wrench)

View attachment 59839
^^^Thanks for the pic PAX5

Process:
Remove Front Engine Cover
Unclip Power Steering Reservoir from Coolant Reservoir for Better Access
Pop Off Passenger Side of Rear Engine Cover
Remove Top Passenger Side Engine Cover by Removing Two T30 Screws

20160620_134354.jpg

Disconnect 5/16" ID Coolant Line from Block - Plug Block (I would stuff a lot of shop towels under nipple before pulling coolant line.)
Disconnect Ground Strap with 12mm (or maybe 10mm)
Remove 8mm Bolt Holding Power Steering Line to Block
Remove 10mm Bolt Holding A/C Line to Frame (Optional: Helps when removing top idler pulley bolt)

20160620_134647.jpg

Unclip A/C Line from Power Steering Line for Better Access
Remove 10mm Nut Holding Power Steering Line Bracket to Tensioner

20160620_164817.jpg

Connect 19mm (or 3/4") Shallow Socket onto 1/2" Drive Section of Serpentine Belt Tool
Place 19mm Socket onto 19mm Stub of Tensioner
Connect 3/8" Drive Section of Serpentine Belt Tool to 1/2" Drive Section of Serpentine Belt Tool in Dog-Leg Arrangement (Keep in mind you want to generate a downward and maybe slightly rearward force on the tensioner - My 1/2" Drive section was nearly horizontal)



Slowly and Steadily Apply Pressure (Towards Front of XC) to Serpentine Belt Tool with your Right Hand - It does not require major muscle. Just steady pressure over the course of 45 - 60 seconds.
As the Tensioner Gives Way, use your Left Hand to Reach Serpentine Belt on Top Idler Pulley and Pull It Off - Release Tension Slowly

20160620_154204.jpg

Now, Begin Removing Parts for Replacement:
Remove Top Idler Pulley and Engine Hoist Bracket (14mm) - Don't Lose the Washer from the Pulley
Remove Lower Idler Pulley (12mm) - Don't Lose the Washer from the Pulley
Remove Tensioner:
Place 10mm Allen Wrench into Tensioner Bolt (Keep the Arm Accessible for Applying Leverage)
Use Chosen Device to Leverage Allen Wrench Loosening Tensioner Bolt (Do NOT Slip Off Wrench and Do Damage)
Once Tensioner Bolt's Initial Hold is Loosed, then Begin Trying to Remove Bolt
I was able to slip the Allen wrench into the tensioner bolt by holding the wrench horizontally and wiggling it into the bolt. I could then get a quarter turn on the bolt and then finagle the wrench back out and repeat the process until you are able to remove the bolt by hand. It doesn't take many turns before you can remove it by hand. If you've cut the wrench, it may be easier to do this. I was able to do it without the cut. (User "sebvox" was able to use a 1/2" chunk of the Allen wrench and a ratcheting box wrench for this step. That might be easier!)
Remove Top Bolt Holding Tensioner to Block (12mm Open Wrench)
Remove Serpentine Belt (If the belt is annoying you along the way, you can completely remove the tensioner before the idlers.)
You should now have all of the parts removed from the block which you're planning to replace.

View attachment 59837

Re-installation:
I started by verifying that my new belt matched my old belt.
Route New Belt Around the Toothed Pulleys.
Install Tensioner
Install Idler Pulleys
Finalize & Verify Belt Routing Leaving Top Idler Pulley for Last
Remove Tension from Tensioner (Same Method as Above)
While Holding Back Tension, Slip Belt Over Top Idler Pulley
Slowly Release Tensioner
Verify Routing and Mating of Belt



Once ABSOLUTELY SURE Belt is Routed Correctly, Remove Tension from Tensioner and Remove Factory Installed Tension Holder from Tensioner with Pliers or Screwdriver
Replace and reinstall all other parts, bolts, and connections in reverse of sequence above.


Thanks to these posts:
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...Replacement-Special-tool-needed-for-tensioner
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...Replacing-the-alternator&p=1850806&viewfull=1
And on a personal note, thank you PAX5 very much for the technical guidance, support, and encouragement to keep going despite the ridiculous heat today.
 

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...
And on a personal note, thank you PAX5 very much for the technical guidance, support and encouragement to keep going despite the ridiculous heat today.
Your welcome!

You did this in about half the time it took me.
 

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Great write up. Perfect timing as I'll be doing this soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
This pic is missing from above:
It's because of the way Google handles their image hosting. I rehosted the image on postimg and included it in the post above so it should now stay there "forever".
 

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Hi All,

Another successful serpentine belt job completed thanks to the above. Can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

A few (very slight) modifications to the above, if I may?

1.) after "Remove 10mm Nut Holding Power Steering Line Bracket to Tensioner", I went ahead and removed the power steering line bracket all together. It's just one additional nut, very easy to get on/off and adds a fair bit more wiggle room.
2.) for the 5/16" coolant line removal, I used the below parts to plug. The green "caps" are 5/16 "screw protectors" from home depot. Found in one of the hardware drawers next to the grade 8 bolts, etc. Fit like a glove...one paper towel was all I needed! The black cone is a plug out of the mighty-max vac/hand pump kit.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi All,

Another successful serpentine belt job completed thanks to the above. Can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

A few (very slight) modifications to the above, if I may?

1.) after "Remove 10mm Nut Holding Power Steering Line Bracket to Tensioner", I went ahead and removed the power steering line bracket all together. It's just one additional nut, very easy to get on/off and adds a fair bit more wiggle room.
2.) for the 5/16" coolant line removal, I used the below parts to plug. The green "caps" are 5/16 "screw protectors" from home depot. Found in one of the hardware drawers next to the grade 8 bolts, etc. Fit like a glove...one paper towel was all I needed! The black cone is a plug out of the mighty-max vac/hand pump kit.
Advice welcome!

So for that bracket, is it the nut that is just on the left side of my photo?


As for the plug, definitely don't do what I did. It was trash and leaked everywhere. PAX5 recommended shoving a bolt into the tubing that I used, then melting the tubing onto the bolt with a flame. That would definitely have been better than what I did!
 

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Well I was going to do this job, but the power steering pump decided to give up the ghost.

So as much as I would have loved to do that job, I just didn't have the time to properly put the attention to it, given it requires e manifold to come off I'm pretty time poor these days.

So I took it down to my local trusted hydraulic service shop and got them to replace the pump , drivebelt, tensioner, idler pullies and also flush the transmission while they were at it.

It will be in the shop for the next couple of days while they wait for the part to arrive.

I've been quoted around $1900 (AUD) for the lot, which considering the pump itself costs 1200 alone over here (not fitted) i think that is pretty reasonable. I did supply the parts for the drive belt etc though as I had them already.
 

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Correct, R Powered, its the nut right in the u-bend of the power steering line. At first I thought it was somehow keeping the power steering line together, but all that bolt does is attach the two halfs of the bracket that holds the PS line to the front of the tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Correct, R Powered, its the nut right in the u-bend of the power steering line. At first I thought it was somehow keeping the power steering line together, but all that bolt does is attach the two halfs of the bracket that holds the PS line to the front of the tensioner.
Any recollection of what size nut that one was?
 

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80% sure it was also 10mm, I can check sometime this week and reply.
 

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Also, for what it's worth the idler pulley on the tensioner can be replaced (same part number as the other two). Confirmed by my dealer and my experience. Could be helpful if that pulley is worn but you don't want to replace the whole tensioner. The nut is reverse thread.
 

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Additional notes for Volvo S80 (2007)

Thanks for the pics and notes! A couple of extra items for any poor soul doing this work on an S80:



First, on my vehicle the lower pulley bolt could not be removed as the hole drilled in the side of the engine compartment was both offset and too small - good work Volvo!. Fix was to jack up the engine to get the alignment and use a hand file on the flange of the bolt so it would slip through.



Second, the engine mount is actually too close to the crankshaft pulley to allow the bolt to slip out! Fix again involved jacking up the engine after removing the four bolts for the engine mount.

Note to Volvo packaging engineers: Don't let me find you.
 

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Great How-To write up.

One comment: if you are going to replace the belt, why not just cut it off? Then you don't have to worry about breaking the tensioner or buying the tool. The new tensioner comes pre-compressed.

Just a thought.
 

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Just did this to my 2008 over the weekend and its not as easy as it may seem by reading it.

It required quite a few tools and manuvering of brackets and hoses around to free up the old belt.

All and all took about 1hr to complete and I had to replace all 3 pulleys. They all had play in it.

There was no audible noise from them however the bolt was worn out and they did squeak on cold start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Great How-To write up.

One comment: if you are going to replace the belt, why not just cut it off? Then you don't have to worry about breaking the tensioner or buying the tool. The new tensioner comes pre-compressed.

Just a thought.
You still need to hold the tension off the tensioner to get the spring holder off, so I don't think it gets you out of buying the tool. I liked having the belt whole so I could transfer my marks from the old belt to the new belt. You might be able to cut it. It would certainly make it easier to remove.


Just did this to my 2008 over the weekend and its not as easy as it may seem by reading it.

It required quite a few tools and manuvering of brackets and hoses around to free up the old belt.

All and all took about 1hr to complete and I had to replace all 3 pulleys. They all had play in it.

There was no audible noise from them however the bolt was worn out and they did squeak on cold start up.
If you did it in an hour, you did it A LOT faster than I did. LOL
 

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If you did it in an hour, you did it A LOT faster than I did. LOL
Tons of tools, lift and air did the help, plus it was 2 people working on it, so it was a lot faster. But it sure seemed impossible at the start of it as its a clusterf**k of rubes, hoses, ground straps, bracekts... you name it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Tons of tools, lift and air did the help, plus it was 2 people working on it, so it was a lot faster. But it sure seemed impossible at the start of it as its a clusterf**k of rubes, hoses, ground straps, bracekts... you name it.
Absolutely. For me, the biggest hurdle was the tensioner bolt which the body made almost impossible to remove. That took a LONG time to finally get out and I had similar trouble getting it back in. I was talking to PAX on the phone while doing it and I wasn't sure it was going to be possible. lol
 

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150k mike belt original. Didn’t look worn out but it did squeak when it was cold on start up and that could have been from the pulleys too.


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