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Would be interested to see how many of the Volvos in our section are leased and how many are owned(f

  • Owned (Financed)

    Votes: 28 87.5%
  • Leased

    Votes: 4 12.5%
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Paid cash for S90 as I sold a 2014 A8 4.0 for cash. I NEVER buy new, except for trucks and vans for my business, usually 2-3 years old tops. I bought my S63 Mercedes with 7800 miles on it......I did finance some of that as it was 110K. I tend to pay off cars very fast and never go the term of a loan. At my age, 66, I just don't want to finance anything. I have never leased......I think over a lifetime of never buying on impulse, buying wisely, haggling, garaging ALL my vehicles and really maintaining them has paid off. If you buy a used vehicle from me it is always in great condition with full service records.
 

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I

I guess if you have some sort of image consciousness emotional issues, and thus require the latest year model car every couple of years, AND you don't tend to drive many miles, it could make sense. Otherwise definitely not.
I've noticed in previous posts you have a penchant for knocking people who might not think the way you do. Grow up, man, or boy. We all have different likes.
 

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Owned/Financed

We keep our vehicles 10-15 years so the best deal for us is to own. And, we finance. With investments returning 4% to 8% - or more, and our Auto-Loan interest for our last three cars running between 0% and 1%, we can leave our investments alone to make more money than the loan would cost. At the current level of 0%, it would be like throwing money away to not finance.
 

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I always buy my cars for a number of reasons: If I like a car, I may keep it for 8 plus years. I drive a lot. I like owning things, so that if I feel like changing or modifying anything I can (although truth be told - now that I'm older, I don't really do this). This and my last car have been low mileage current year company driven cars. Very good buying experiences so I doubt I would buy new again (since the mileage when I buy is only a few months of driving for me). I also buy the extended Manufacturers warranty, if available (it was included in my price for the Volvo so built into the deal). People debate this - but for me, the peace of mind is worth it and I like that it's directly with the manufacturer/dealer network. My last car (an MB diesel) had to have a LOT of warranty work - the dealer always went to bat for me to get things covered so it paid for itself and a lot of my other warranties many times over - I always got a MB courtesy car when it was in the shop too.

I used to lease my ex-wife's cars - but we would trade these in after 3 or 4 years so leasing made the process pretty painless. We went through a few 3 series, GTI's, etc and returned them before any major problems.
 

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Would never lease a car. Too expensive over the long haul and most lease terms are a rip-off and far too restrictive for my driving needs. Always buy with cash and hold for 10 years or more, although I'll be unloading by 2017 CC next spring because I need a tow vehicle for a larger trailer. Will miss the CC, been a great car, although I'm getting tired of replacing warped rotors all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Would never lease a car. Too expensive over the long haul and most lease terms are a rip-off and far too restrictive for my driving needs. Always buy with cash and hold for 10 years or more, although I'll be unloading by 2017 CC next spring because I need a tow vehicle for a larger trailer. Will miss the CC, been a great car, although I'm getting tired of replacing warped rotors all the time.
How often did you have to replace your rotors? Did Volvo cover those under warranty?
 

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Leased...screaming deal on ‘19 V90CC, where we’d lose less on 36 mos. monthly payments than car’s depreciation. Leaves us an option at lease-end on replacement. Would buy new if no yuuge lease deals.
 

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How often did you have to replace your rotors? Did Volvo cover those under warranty?
Replaced them three times on a car with 50K miles. First two times covered by warranty, third time covered by extended maintenance plan that came with car as VW diesel owners incentive program. Now they’re starting to warp again after less than 10K and I’m out of the maintenance program so will try to get it covered nonetheless.


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We leased our 2016 XC90 because I was concerned, given the problems at the time, with it turning into a pumpkin (or I guess a lemon) and being stuck with it. We wound up buying it out after the lease ran out as it had low mileage and had been solid for us. No issueS to date with it. We wound up buying a 2018 V90CC as well based on our experience with the XC90. Debates leasing it but financing was a better deal and interest rates were low.
 

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Replaced them three times on a car with 50K miles. First two times covered by warranty, third time covered by extended maintenance plan that came with car as VW diesel owners incentive program. Now they’re starting to warp again after less than 10K and I’m out of the maintenance program so will try to get it covered nonetheless.


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You might want to try to look for an upgrade option if it is going to be on your penny; factory rotors will just continue to warp on you.

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You might want to try to look for an upgrade option if it is going to be on your penny; factory rotors will just continue to warp on you.
The pads are the problem, not the rotors. And there is no such thing as "warped rotors". This is a common misconception. Rotors do not warp (at least not under normal situations).

The true cause of the vibrating sensation in the brakes is due to keeping the pedal pressed down while standing still and the brakes are hot.

This "bakes" the pads against the hot rotors, causing a chemical change in the metal resulting in the rotors wearing unevenly, thus causing the vibration.

This happens with all cars if you sit with the brake pedal pressed down at standstill when the brakes are hot, but I'm guessing that these new Volvo's just get hot brakes more easily, making the issue more likely.

This was an issue on pretty much every car I ever owned, domestic and foreign, back when I was younger, more stupid and drove more aggressively.

These days that my driving is more "zen" inspired (Accelerate slowly, leave enough space to the next car that you only ever need your brakes when coming to a standstill, and instead can coast down in speed) I haven't seen the issue in a long time, including on my S90.

I vaguely remember doing research back in the day when I was young and irresponsible and drove "hard" all the time in order to find pads that are less likely to cause this issue when baking on rotors. This may have been the case with ceramic pads, but I can't remember. Someone else can probably chime in with more detail.

Either way, as long as the brakes keep getting hot, and someone keeps the pads squeezed up against the rotors at standstill, this will keep happening over and over again.
 

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The true cause of the vibrating sensation in the brakes is due to keeping the pedal pressed down while standing still and the brakes are hot.

This "bakes" the pads against the hot rotors, causing a chemical change in the metal resulting in the rotors wearing unevenly, thus causing the vibration.
However, better rotors have better resistance to this "baking" effect. I've had the same issues with GM vehicles (Suburban, Impala SS and Corvette), as soon as I replaced rotors with aftermarket, the issues went away for ever...and I didn't have to change my driving habits.
 

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Owned - paid cash.

I’ve never leased a vehicle and never will. Our last three vehicles we paid for with cash over the past decade. We decided a while ago to stop borrowing money.
 

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Leased - wanted to buy a 60 series but the deal was too great on a lease for the 90 to pass.
2yr/20k lease on 2020 S90 R-D with P* (MSRP something like $56k)

I drive less than the mileage allotment and switch cars often so it was fine. I can also purchase at the end if I so chose. Sort of a unique model now since 2020 is first year of USDM R-Design on the S90, last year before the refresh, and last year with no speed limiter (before the tuning folks make that a non-issue).

Probably will take advantage of the 6-9mo pull ahead that is quite often offered by Volvo and get into something like a V or CC model, or gasp, maybe even an XC.
 

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However, better rotors have better resistance to this "baking" effect. I've had the same issues with GM vehicles (Suburban, Impala SS and Corvette), as soon as I replaced rotors with aftermarket, the issues went away for ever...and I didn't have to change my driving habits.
I've typically seen it solved with different pad materials, like ceramic pads.

Rotors are usually all more or less the same mild steel. Using rotors slots and vent holes can help keep them cooler and minimize these issues too, but they have issues of their own.
 

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Owned - paid cash.

I’ve never leased a vehicle and never will. Our last three vehicles we paid for with cash over the past decade. We decided a while ago to stop borrowing money.
In 1976 my job moved overseas and remained there for several years. I knew I was going to need a car when I eventually returned to the US so I started a separate bank account and put in a "car payment" every month, essentially paying the car loan interest to myself. When I finally returned in 1985 I used that money to pay cash for a car. I've managed to stay ahead of the curve ever since and have paid cash ever since.
 

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Owned 2017 S90, not financed. Bought a 9 month old car at a dealer and saved big vs. buying a new one.
 
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