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Hey guys. It's been a while since I've posted on here, but I recently bought my dream car in an 05 S60-R, 6-speed manual. I love it. It's great. I got a really good deal on it and I had a volvo dealership look it over before I bought it and there were no issues or anything that he could tell.

I have a few questions here that aren't necessarily impacting the driveability of the vehicle (I can still use it as my DD) however I'd like to get these things looked at and fixed in the near future. BTW, I was well aware that volvos are not exactly inexpensive to maintain, but like I said, this was my dream car and I had the opportunity to get it.

1. the brakes squeel a lot, but when I get down and look at the pads there is a decent amount of padding left. It really only squeels at certain speeds and it isn't a regular thing. The car stops fine and I have detected or felt no brake fade. My thought was whoever did the brakes last didn't put any (or enough) of the lubricant on the back of the pads themselves before fixing them to the calibers. The rotors are clean as well. Is this common? Any thoughts on this?

2. I've lurked and read several instances of this one: I'm getting a yellow fault light indicating "chassis settings" and I'm aware that it could be a number of things ranging from a few hundred dollar fix to $1200 or so. The roads aren't great around here and I try my damndest to avoid pot holes and whatnot, but I guess I caught one because it was fine up until about 3 weeks ago and now the active-chassis setting is locked on "Advanced" but the "Sport" light is on as well.

3. This is my biggest concern/question because I cannot for the life of me figure it out. Do "R's" generally just suck down coolant more than other vehicles? When I got the vehicle the coolant level was slightly above the minimum line and after putting about 600 miles on it or so the red fault light came on telling me that the coolant level was too low. I stopped, picked up a bottle of Prestone 50/50, and put maybe 2 cups worth, which brought it to the midway point between minimum & max. About 3 weeks later the light came on again as I was driving and when I got to work it was below the minimum line again, so I topped it off again. I've done the newspaper under the car test with no drips. I've not noticed any sweet smells or anything like that to indicate that there may be a bad head gasket and there is no white smoke coming from the exhaust. I can't figure it though. I mean, I don't mind keeping the level topped off with the coolant because it's really not that expensive, but it just perplexes me.

4. Right now I have summer tires on the original "R" rims. I'd like to get another set of wheels with winter tires on them and I'm considering maybe going with a smaller rim size to get a beefier tire. Would this be something that could potentially throw off the timing considering it is an AWD vehicle? Should I stay with the same size rims that are stock? Does anyone have any suggestions for rims? I'd like a decent set...nothing crazy.

Any input on these four items would be much appreciated.

Thank you so much for the input.
 

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I am moving this to the R forum where you will get a lot more than 2 cents...
 

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Brake squeal=normal. I have it. As far as coolant wise....you might have a leak in your radiator.
 

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Hey guys. It's been a while since I've posted on here, but I recently bought my dream car in an 05 S60-R, 6-speed manual. I love it. It's great. I got a really good deal on it and I had a volvo dealership look it over before I bought it and there were no issues or anything that he could tell.

I have a few questions here that aren't necessarily impacting the driveability of the vehicle (I can still use it as my DD) however I'd like to get these things looked at and fixed in the near future. BTW, I was well aware that volvos are not exactly inexpensive to maintain, but like I said, this was my dream car and I had the opportunity to get it.

1. the brakes squeel a lot, but when I get down and look at the pads there is a decent amount of padding left. It really only squeels at certain speeds and it isn't a regular thing. The car stops fine and I have detected or felt no brake fade. My thought was whoever did the brakes last didn't put any (or enough) of the lubricant on the back of the pads themselves before fixing them to the calibers. The rotors are clean as well. Is this common? Any thoughts on this?

2. I've lurked and read several instances of this one: I'm getting a yellow fault light indicating "chassis settings" and I'm aware that it could be a number of things ranging from a few hundred dollar fix to $1200 or so. The roads aren't great around here and I try my damndest to avoid pot holes and whatnot, but I guess I caught one because it was fine up until about 3 weeks ago and now the active-chassis setting is locked on "Advanced" but the "Sport" light is on as well.

3. This is my biggest concern/question because I cannot for the life of me figure it out. Do "R's" generally just suck down coolant more than other vehicles? When I got the vehicle the coolant level was slightly above the minimum line and after putting about 600 miles on it or so the red fault light came on telling me that the coolant level was too low. I stopped, picked up a bottle of Prestone 50/50, and put maybe 2 cups worth, which brought it to the midway point between minimum & max. About 3 weeks later the light came on again as I was driving and when I got to work it was below the minimum line again, so I topped it off again. I've done the newspaper under the car test with no drips. I've not noticed any sweet smells or anything like that to indicate that there may be a bad head gasket and there is no white smoke coming from the exhaust. I can't figure it though. I mean, I don't mind keeping the level topped off with the coolant because it's really not that expensive, but it just perplexes me.

4. Right now I have summer tires on the original "R" rims. I'd like to get another set of wheels with winter tires on them and I'm considering maybe going with a smaller rim size to get a beefier tire. Would this be something that could potentially throw off the timing considering it is an AWD vehicle? Should I stay with the same size rims that are stock? Does anyone have any suggestions for rims? I'd like a decent set...nothing crazy.

Any input on these four items would be much appreciated.

Thank you so much for the input.
1. they can squeal. You can take the pads off and re-seat them and put on new lube on the back side. alt. you could go with different pad setup. there are lots of brake squeal threads.

2. check to make sure the 4c struts still have the wires still leading to them. make sure your accelerometers are attached and brackets aren't bent. could be blown/wrecked strut. getting your code read could help.

3. leaky radiator if you are lucky and it isn't the head gasket or worse (not real common), the radiators tend to leak on the sides where they plastic ends are fuzed. - replacement kinda sucks as it is kinda buried so dealer will soak you some.

4. if you are on 17" wheels, there isn't much you can do. if you are on 18" you can drop down to 17" and get a meatier tire. your wheels need to clear the big brembos.
 

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Anyone correct me if i am wrong but dont our caRs usually have leaky radiators? I know mine has been already replaced

Also if you can track someone down with vida/dice they could tell you what the chassis setting error is, they can also check the voltages of each strut to tell you whether or not you need new struts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If it was the radiator, wouldn't there be some sort of residual drip or something on the ground? I'm not seeing anything at all. I've heard the radiator replacement can be very expensive and it may just be worth it (for now) to keep a bottle of 50/50 in my trunk. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
1. they can squeal. You can take the pads off and re-seat them and put on new lube on the back side. alt. you could go with different pad setup. there are lots of brake squeal threads.

2. check to make sure the 4c struts still have the wires still leading to them. make sure your accelerometers are attached and brackets aren't bent. could be blown/wrecked strut. getting your code read could help.

3. leaky radiator if you are lucky and it isn't the head gasket or worse (not real common), the radiators tend to leak on the sides where they plastic ends are fuzed. - replacement kinda sucks as it is kinda buried so dealer will soak you some.

4. if you are on 17" wheels, there isn't much you can do. if you are on 18" you can drop down to 17" and get a meatier tire. your wheels need to clear the big brembos.
It's the standard 5-spoke "R" wheels that came on it. I think they are 18".

Here's a photo of it:
 

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If it was the radiator, wouldn't there be some sort of residual drip or something on the ground? I'm not seeing anything at all. I've heard the radiator replacement can be very expensive and it may just be worth it (for now) to keep a bottle of 50/50 in my trunk. :D
depends on the size of the leak. mine started going through coolant slowly (~3-4 months before it became more noticeable). I had to fill coolant twice in that time. dealer will be anywhere around 900-1100 depending on labor rate. it is buried in there. Mine never leaked a noticable amount on the ground. take a flashlight and look for signs of coolant leakage. otherwise, you will need to start investigating head gasket, look for coolant in oil/etc.

anthonybilotta is right. It is fairly common for these to leak. Many have chewed through 2 or 3. I'm on my second and I have an all Al one ready to go in when this one fails.
 

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It's the standard 5-spoke "R" wheels that came on it. I think they are 18".

Here's a photo of it:
check tire, look for r17 or r18, that will tell you. looks like 18's from pick but...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
depends on the size of the leak. mine started going through coolant slowly (~3-4 months before it became more noticeable). I had to fill coolant twice in that time. dealer will be anywhere around 900-1100 depending on labor rate. it is buried in there. Mine never leaked a noticable amount on the ground. take a flashlight and look for signs of coolant leakage. otherwise, you will need to start investigating head gasket, look for coolant in oil/etc.

anthonybilotta is right. It is fairly common for these to leak. Many have chewed through 2 or 3. I'm on my second and I have an all Al one ready to go in when this one fails.
Good to know.

I don't care for the volvo dealerships around here and I have a mechanic who works on volvo, bmw, and audi a lot so he's pretty familiar with them.

Is this something that I can buy myself with efforts to defray costs?

Is it beneficial to put in an aluminum radiator? I'd imagine that would last significantly longer...
 

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I was looking at this one, for example:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...+Systems+&+Components,wpn_scat_name:Radiators)

Aluminum Core radiator.


Judging from this price, I'm assuming that the part itself isn't the expensive part of this fix/upgrade, but rather the labor since it's such tight quarters and requires a lot of removal of other items.
that is just an al core, only place to get all al rad for our R's is by contacting george at vivaperformance. http://www.vivaperformance.com/ It is only available if you have a manual transmission as well.

Your indy can do the repair just fine. the reason it is so expensive is the radiator is tucked up front so it's a pain to get at.

The reason to get all aluminum is to eliminate the weak point where these all fail at. Given enough hot/cold cycles it will leak eventually where the plastic meets the core. The all al. are pricey. I wouldn't bother if I wasn't planning on keeping the car. I picked one up before they were available at viva but alas mine didn't get shipped to the states in time for my repair.
 

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that is just an al core, only place to get all al rad for our R's is by contacting george at vivaperformance. http://www.vivaperformance.com/ It is only available if you have a manual transmission as well.

Your indy can do the repair just fine. the reason it is so expensive is the radiator is tucked up front so it's a pain to get at.

The reason to get all aluminum is to eliminate the weak point where these all fail at. Given enough hot/cold cycles it will leak eventually where the plastic meets the core. The all al. are pricey. I wouldn't bother if I wasn't planning on keeping the car. I picked one up before they were available at viva but alas mine didn't get shipped to the states in time for my repair.
Thanks! I'll look into that. Looks like the rad would be $329 & change (not including shipping).

George does good work/products?
 

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George does good work/products?
Consider yourself lucky for surviving after posting such a thing. The last guy that said something like that got struck by lightning.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Consider yourself lucky for surviving after posting such a thing. The last guy that said something like that got struck by lightning.
Haha, my bad.

I've never really been in a position to really upgrade/make major repairs like this to my car before. I had a 93 850GLT in college, but most recently I had a Chevy Tahoe and I did pretty much all of the work on that myself. I don't want to mess around with the R too much, so any information and resources is a good thing!
 

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Lets just say you have a tough night, wake up about 3 am, and you have a question you fire off to George. I wouldn't be surprised if he answered within a few minutes. He is a cyborg or something.
 

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Lets just say you have a tough night, wake up about 3 am, and you have a question you fire off to George. I wouldn't be surprised if he answered within a few minutes. He is a cyborg or something.
It's really great to have such a consistent resource like that.
 

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But what if he is watching everything...doh, I've said too much!
 

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$329 is that all? damn.

thats what i get for doing mods/ordering parts before viva picked them up. I don't want to think how much i've spent on having stuff sent from overseas when not available here... :facepalm:


:thumbup:


But what if he is watching everything...doh, I've said too much!
if you go missing we know what to do. order parts from viva and say nothing, nothing at all.
 

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$329 is that all? damn.

thats what i get for doing mods/ordering parts before viva picked them up. I don't want to think how much i've spent on having stuff sent from overseas when not available here... :facepalm:


:thumbup:




if you go missing we know what to do. order parts from viva and say nothing, nothing at all.
:thumbup:


Can do.
 
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