I have a v70 and use the load bars with my canoe which is 36" at its widest point and approaches the maximum width of the bars. I've tied it directy to the bars and used some pieces of scrap tubing (cut in half) to pad it. <p>I tried the Thule canoe carrier but the cradles would not mount wide enough to accommodate my canoe. Last year I bought a set of Malone big foot brackets and they are great, but I think they've changed the design and the <A HREF="http://www.maloneautoracks.com/hardrack_112.html" TARGET="_blank">new ones</A> will have the same problem as the Thule brackets.<p>Depending on the length of your canoe, you should have no problem locating it on the bars for a good fit.<p>How wide is your canoe?
I have a Caillou sailing kayak that is hauled on top of the XC90. I use the factory load bars with Malone brackets. You can find the older design brackets that MrTippy and I use on eBay every now and then.
Crap...<p>my canoe is 38&1/4 at the widest. Outlook not sounding good. I dont want to shell out the Thule money but sounds like thats the only way. <p>is that 36 from bar end to bar end or does that go onto the bracket part?<p>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Impulse922</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">36" from where the plastic cover is hinged/fastened on the metal bar.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Remember that you have some leeway in the position of of the canoe on the bars. Take a look at the roof of your car and find the place where the load bars will mount. Measure the difference between the two bars and then compare that distance to your canoe. How fast does your canoe taper from its widest point to the ends, does it lose 2" or more within this distance?<p>Also you can slide the canoe back and forth so that it is not centered over the bars and use the tie-downs to keep it in place. You don't want it too far off center, but this could buy you some extra room.<p>This picture <IMG SRC="http://www.johngushbespokefurniture.com/website/images/IMG_2441.jpg" BORDER="0"> shows the bars and mounts on my v70. You can clearly see that in the interest of cosmetics (form over function), Volvo specified that the bars not exceed the width of the roof. Full post <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=120960" TARGET="_blank">here</A>.<p>These canoe holders are the Malone Big Foot canoe rack system. You can see that they clamp inside of the towers which was perfect for me. However, I think that they have changed their design and the newer ones look to be a problem. That said, it may be that the old style are still available from their retailers or on ebay as someone else mentioned. <p>I also considered replacing the bars with longer ones from Thule. They are only riveted on and look to be of the same cross sectional dimension as the standard Thule bars. However, in my case, the problem was still the intereference of the towers with the location of the canoe holders. Tabasoc, since your canoe is significantly wider than the bars, maybe this would work for you.<p>One word of caution about the bars, if you get them: <b>screw them down tightly and check them frequently if you are going a distance</b>. I've noticed that they loosen and that allows the little feet with the rubber pads on them to bounce around in the track driving them down in the metal. This wore out the rubbber pads in two places and made a dent in the roof at the mounting point. It is not visually obvious, I am more concerned about the possibility of the paint being compromised. I've started using some pieces of hard rubber under the tower feet in addition to the oe pads when I mount the bars.
thanks for all the info Tippy! Have been looking for the old Malones but havent found any yet. <p>I was looking at the Thule kayak system the 884 or something like that. I was thinking if that would that work? Seems like it would if I was to just spread them out enough and strap the boat down rightside up. Thoughts?
Hot stuff: A little more info <A HREF="http://vccs.volvocars.se/accessories/cat/en-GB/P2X/default.htm" TARGET="_blank">Volvo</A> says my bars are 39.3" and 38.5", front and rear, respectively. I measured them and that matches the distance on the topside of the bar just inside of the plastic housing. Pretty much the usable width. The S60 load bar width was not posted on the factory website. I'm going to guess that it might be a little narrower.<p>Here is the only pic I have with a canoe on my car (that's my best buddy paddling partner checking the straps) with the Bigfoot carriers. It is about 36" at its widest, and 17' 6" long.<br><IMG SRC="http://www.johngushbespokefurniture.com/website/images/P6260211_640.jpg" BORDER="0"><br>If you look carefully you can see that the front bar is pretty much at its limits and that there is some room on the rear. If I was too slide the boat forward it would make more room. Your boat is a little shorter, you may not have as much to work with.<p>If you want to try the old style Malone Bigfoots, call 800-295-0042, xt200 or press <3> for the business office and ask for Megan, she'll know what this is about; they have about 30 sets left, $114+shipping.<p>I can't see you being able to securely strap a canoe right-side up with a Thule carrier. You need the open side firmly resting on the crossbar. If you did it as you are proposing, you would end up pinching the gunwhales as you tightened or tied it down, possibly to the point of cracking it, depending on what the canoe is made out of. If the thwarts exactly match the holders, you might get away with it, but the hull would have to solidly fit with the saddles. No, I'm not liking that.<p>Remember, you don't absolutely need holders, you can tie the canoe directly to the rails. I did that for a couple of years. You just need some firm cushion between the gunnel and the rail, like a piece of split old garden hose. The canoe may twist a little (2-5 degrees) about its center in a good crosswind, but it will be ok. If you are only driving locally at non-highway speeds, it's no big deal.<p>Regardless of what you do, just remember to tie it town firmly with ropes (unless you are an Ahhnold, you won't be able overdo it) or, if you are using straps, not to overtighten them--they are the #1 cause of cracked boats.
There are also these, too.<br><A HREF="http://maloneautoracks.com/softrack_152.html" TARGET="_blank">http://maloneautoracks.com/softrack_152.html</A><p>Sold all over the place, even walmart.<p>I prefer a rack because I go long distances 2-3x a year and it raises the boat up and improves my vision greatly.
I found a website with the BigFoots...<p><A HREF="http://www.islandsportshop.com/Bicycle%20Trailer.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.islandsportshop.com...r.htm</A><p><br>I think calling Megan will save a few bucks though. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Decided to roll the dice on a pair of s60 load bars. Hopefully they will work. I have a few ideas on how to make this work....having canoe correctly seated (upside down). If I can get them in there, the Thule gunwale brackets may work backwards. Putting them on the inside. That should keep everything in place still but just making tie down alittle more difficult. <br>I will give you a heads up on the outcome.<br>Thanks for all your info! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">