SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please share this as you see fit, I'm sure it will work on any volvo with a front suspension similar to the '04 1/2 ->....
I own an 04 1/2 S40 with racing springs.. The previous owner put them on, and never had the suspension geometry corrected for the lower stance. After looking at my options, I chose to remove the rivets holding in the ball joints, and slotting the A arm holes to allow a decrease in the excess negative camber.
Hopefully, no more shredded tires! (See photograph)
Shoe Font Electric blue Glove Boot
Bicycle part Font Auto part Paint Bicycle drivetrain part
Shoe Font Electric blue Glove Boot

Bicycle part Font Auto part Paint Bicycle drivetrain part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,137 Posts
What are "racing springs"?

A few months ago I installed H&R lowering springs on my S40 along with new shocks/struts/hardware, shock and strut mounts and front control arms. I also installed adjustable rear upper control arms specifically so that I could adjust rear camber to keep from wearing my tires.

Even with my adjustable rear control arms set at the stock setting, though near the limit at the rear, all 4 of my camber readings were in specification. However, I did not buy adjustable control arms to be happy with "near the limit". I adjusted them so my rear camber is now dead in the middle of the specification range. :cool:

Perhaps your springs (or coilovers?) are super low causing excessive camber or perhaps something in your front suspension is bent?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What are "racing springs"?

A few months ago I installed H&R lowering springs on my S40 along with new shocks/struts/hardware, shock and strut mounts and front control arms. I also installed adjustable rear upper control arms specifically so that I could adjust rear camber to keep from wearing my tires.

Even with my adjustable rear control arms set at the stock setting, though near the limit at the rear, all 4 of my camber readings were in specification. However, I did not buy adjustable control arms to be happy with "near the limit". I adjusted them so my rear camber is now dead in the middle of the specification range. :cool:

Perhaps your springs (or coilovers?) are super low causing excessive camber or perhaps something in your front suspension is bent?
Hi, thanks for your response. racing springs are springs which not only lower the car, they are stiffer, to improve handling and aerodynamics under competition use. If your lowering springs also do this, then we are talking about the same thing. When I bought my S40, it came with a set of Eibach competition springs installed, but as I stated, no mods to correct the front and rear suspension geometry for the lower stance (too much negative camber). I installed the same rear control arms you did in the rear, and also set them to the middle of the factory spec.
Correction of the camber in the front is a little more complicated than the rear, due to the design of the front suspension. I decided against using the limited number of adjustable plates for use on the top of the struts, because they are mainly designed to add negative camber, can cause the top of the tire to stick out of the wheel well at the top, and are waay overpriced!!!
The advantage to my solution is that by moving the ball joint inward you dont need as much travel to correct the camber and also, the tire is moving inward at the bottom, not out at the top (no clearance problems with wide tires). I agree with you that an automobile which has collision damage, or damaged, worn, incorrectly installed suspension components can have a can of worms for a suspension, but fortunately, my 40 is pristine, it has all new suspension components, tires, etc, and they were installed by me. "The Black Cat" Master of All Things Mechanical 😸👍☠
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
410 Posts
All lowering springs are stiffer and they are not considered as “racing springs”

Its an interesting way to fix the camber, but for me it looks like hitting an bigger pothole will just hit the screws out of their places and you will need to adjust the camber again. Maybe im wrong


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: lunalolvo

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I think you are seriously under estimating the forces applied to those lower arms
with the holes slotted like that the bolts will rip out with little to no effort.
if you want to run this setup, at least put a doubling plate on the bottom side, with the correct size holes for the bolts
and weld it in place once you have finalised the correct camber.

failing to do this, could damage your car, or worse kill some innocent bystander as the whole thing collapses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
376 Posts
First time I'm hearing of springs affecting aerodynamics on a simple road car, let alone improving them.
Similarly to others I'd be worried about this modification's safety/the bolt's ability to stay aligned in the slot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Im back to finish this thread. My front control arm mods worked perfectly, got the camber dialed in just right and stopped the tire wear problem. Handles great too!
No issues with the slots for the bolts. Used high strength bolts and nuts with high strength forged washers top and bottom (I MIG welded ALL of the bottom washers to the bottoms of the control arms after getting the camber set. Aint No Way in HELL anything is moving anywhere, unless I run over a Low Yeild Nuke!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
First time I'm hearing of springs affecting aerodynamics on a simple road car, let alone improving them.
Similarly to others I'd be worried about this modification's safety/the bolt's ability to stay aligned in the slot.
lowering an automobile not only improves handling at high speeds (lower center of gravity)
but improves aerodynamics as well. (More air going Over the car rather than under it (Ground Effects) Further improving both handling, and reducing the drag coefficient. End result, better fuel milage and handling when I'm doing the long haul to Florida ;>)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok. To each his own. My main point is that my S40 is very responsive and safe to drive at high speeds and long distances. Less tiring.. a little more work and it will be just right.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top