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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

This is my first time posting an interactive discussion thread on a forum, but I figured it would be a perfect place to document my progress on my Magic Blue 2007 S60 T5 with M66. This is my first P2 Volvo, in the past I have owned a couple manual P80's and a few redblocks.



As is, the '07 T5Ms were quite rare as many of you know (60 made in '07 iirc). The way this car is spec'd out makes me believe it is a one-off car, at least in the United States. As a Magic Blue '07 T5M with the 917C two-tone interior, I would expect very few cars to be made the same. I haven't checked the VIN to confirm if everything was as-is from the factory, but as it sits, I think it is one of very few spec'd the same.

I bought it about a month and a half ago in February 2020 from Connor @ ViVA. It was brought up to Massachusetts by Connor from a fellow in Virginia who seemed to take good care of it. Connor never ended up putting it on the road, so I got it with hardly any New England miles. I bought the car with just over 124K and have since put ~2K miles on it.



I bought the car with all the factory bits and aftermarket mods it has on it. It has ABL Xenon headlights, Volvo sport front bumper, side skirts, rear valence, and spoiler, Bilstein HD F/R shocks, Ultra Racing strut brace, iPd strut bar conversion, Ultra Racing rear chassis brace, Snabb catted downpipe, TME cat-back, and various R bits like intake manifold cover and 18" Pegasus.

I plan on doing some work with it, making it an R spec T5 without all the expensive breaky stuff (4C, AWD, cracked sleeves). I have recently acquired a set of R Brembos that I am in the process of repainting, as well as a set of R headlights that I hope to modify with a projector retrofit.



The car is currently registered with a rebuilt title due to a rear-end accident where the driver's side rear quarter panel was hit. The body work done is very nice and you cannot tell that the car had been hit from the rear quarter, but if you pull the interior taillight panel off you'll notice some mangled metal. Everything fits as it should and under normal circumstances you cannot notice it so it doesn't bother me.

However, it does mean the car was resprayed. I was informed that the body and bumpers were resprayed, besides the roof and trunk lid. For the most part, the paint work was very nicely done and the untrained eye would not be able to notice anything. Upon closer inspection, you will notice some slight surface rust on the rockers near the door frames and a small run on the front passenger door. My auto-body friend said she noticed a few more things, but I was unable to identify anything (I have almost zero bodywork experience).



Overall, the car is very nice and I am incredibly happy to have it. I am moving on from a '98 V70 T5M with 300K miles so this is quite the upgrade, however as a college student with an active lifestyle, it gives me anxiety. It was nice to have a car where you didn't have to worry too much about the exterior or interior (in terms of current shape). I have a '92 240 that I'm trying to get back on the road so I can use that for daily abuse and winter driving. Once that is back up and running, this vehicle will be more for running errands and weekend drives.

I will do my best to regularly update this page for more in-depth write ups on what has been going on with the car, but for more short-term updates, feel free to follow my progress over on Instagram @volvbro. I'd love to post pictures here if anyone can give me some instruction, I can't seem to figure out how to do it. Imgur isn't accepting my photos for some reason.

If you've made it this far, thanks for reading and I look forward to getting more involved with the P2 and Swedespeed community!
 

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Might be a pretty rare car. Can't wait to see some pictures!
 

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This will look even better when the proper trim is put back on! - I'm a follower on Insta :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the club!

Sweet car, you'll have some fun!

I'm curious to know how the Headlights turn out :)
Thanks! I'll post pictures of my progress once I begin, and once I can figure out how to :D
 

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2005 S60 T5 M66 with 4c
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Welcome! Sounds like you have a good handle on things. the P2 T5M66 is a great platform and really rewarding when everything is sorted. Super reliable, plenty fast-ish, and a high fun factor all around. Any questions on your upcoming mods, ask away as I've done a majority of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Might be a pretty rare car. Can't wait to see some pictures!
I still am trying to figure out how to post the images. I was able to upload them to Imgur, but they don't seem to show up in the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This will look even better when the proper trim is put back on! - I'm a follower on Insta :thumbup:
Awesome! I have bumper trim on the way, the door trim is proving more difficult to source...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Welcome! Sounds like you have a good handle on things. the P2 T5M66 is a great platform and really rewarding when everything is sorted. Super reliable, plenty fast-ish, and a high fun factor all around. Any questions on your upcoming mods, ask away as I've done a majority of them.
Thank you! I'm a believer in the platform already :)
 

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2005 S60 T5 M66 with 4c
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I still am trying to figure out how to post the images. I was able to upload them to Imgur, but they don't seem to show up in the thread.
How I figured out how to load images onto the forum is like this:
1. Reduce the image size to about what is right for your screen, so something in the 1000pixels wide - to reduce the image file size
2. Use the image loading button above the reply box and load your image
3. When you post your reply, it will show up like "<image-xxxxxx>" or something, but no image
4. Go to edit the reply, and reload the image in the same way as before - you can only add one image at a time.
5. Repeat as many times as needed to add the images you want.
 

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How I figured out how to load images onto the forum is like this:
1. Reduce the image size to about what is right for your screen, so something in the 1000pixels wide - to reduce the image file size
2. Use the image loading button above the reply box and load your image
3. When you post your reply, it will show up like "<image-xxxxxx>" or something, but no image
4. Go to edit the reply, and reload the image in the same way as before - you can only add one image at a time.
5. Repeat as many times as needed to add the images you want.
Or you could just use Tapatalk

Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk
 

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Sick car, I posted on your Instagram too but why in heck would you remove the abl lights? The best possible light for a P2 car. Plus you would have to hack the CEM to get rid of the warning light in order to put in R lights.

That being said... I'll trade ya lights

Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk
 

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Don’t replace the bi-xenons. I love mine. I also have an 07 T5 m66.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Nice new car rundy, magic blue is best! What’s that on the c pillar? Reminds me of the caschy shields I got for mine a few years ago



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Nice score. When Connor first got that before I knew about the crash I was going to try to buy it to replace mine when he was done with it (because magic > sapphire).
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Hi folks - reviving this from a few months ago when I initially posted. Sorry I haven't replied, I've been crazy busy with a bunch of stuff and literally just visited the forums for maybe the first time since.

As I've thought more about it, I've been more apt to keep the ABLs. I absolutely love the performance, and at the moment I'm more concerned with functionality/originality than looks (which is why I'd do a projector swap in the R lights). Although I do REALLY love the glass lenses off the R. I sanded the headlights to make the plastic a bit clearer, but it was my first time and didn't come out exactly as I'd hoped. The drivers headlight came out slightly foggy, but clear when wet. I put a clear wrap on it and made sure the lens was wet prior to application so it looks clear as-is. Not sure if it was the moisture or the wrap that helped, but it's fine for now. BUT the wrap doesn't cover 100% of the lens and there are some creases so eventually I'd like to get that fixed.

The badges I have on the C-pillar are executive-looking badges, ones you might find on an S80 or XC90 with that package. I'm not sure of their origins as they came with the car, but regardless I believe I'll be taking them off since the color came off after a car wash (touchless at that!)

Downloading Tapatalk now, will update the original post with images. I'll do my best to continue updating this thread but I am starting school in a couple of weeks so I'm going to be busy again lol.

ANYWAYS, I crossed over 130K recently and along with it came some maintenance. Around 128K or 129K, I did an oil change and discovered this motor uses some oil. Doesn't leak a drop, but seems to burn it. At the time I did not smell any oil after boost, but more recently I was on a long drive (200+ miles) and smelled burning oil occasionally. It wasn't a significant amount considering the oil was still full when I got to my destination, but nevertheless I smelled it a few times. At 130K, I replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets and everything associated (studs, other gaskets, OE coolant). I also replaced the PCV banjo bolt on the end of the intake manifold because I had heard about the catastrophic failures, but it turned out it had already been replaced. Regardless, I had everything apart as well as the new part so I replaced it as well as all the associated parts (thermo-gasket, intake mani gasket, crush washers). While I was there, I cleaned the throttle body and replaced that gasket. I'm keeping records of all the parts I replace, including brands and rough estimates of $.

Due to the burning oil (and discovery of low oil on the dipstick after a 5K change on full-syn 5W40) I have revised my oil change interval to 3K miles. I also noticed when doing all the aforementioned maintenance, the timing belt appeared to be in poor condition. It was supposedly changed 2 years ago, but I don't feel comfortable running it for much longer so I'll replace it. I'll go ahead and do that when I do my next oil change. As far as my turbo goes, if anyone has a spare K24 that I could send out for rebuild, I'd be interested. It won't be for a while, but I figured I should have it on hand when I need it. As far as mods go, I'm interested in: Snabb airbox, Snabb intake pipe for stock MAF, FMIC + piping. Eventually I'll just buy new if I can't find used, but as a college student, used parts that aren't necessarily "mechanical", I don't mind second hand.

EDIT: I forgot to talk about the paint. As I've gotten more familiar with the paint, I've found dirt and debris trapped in the paint when it was being resprayed. I have also found 2 or 3 drips on the doors. So the respray isn't good at all. It's a nice looking paint - it shines and sparkles like magic blue should - and you won't notice the issues from 10 feet, but it's not a quality job unfortunately. I don't care *that* much, but it definitely bums me out.
 

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2005 S60 T5 M66 with 4c
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Good progress. These cars can last a long time so you can take your time to make corrections to restore it.

I would stick with the ABLs in your position. I retrofitted R lights with bi-xenon projectors from TRS/Morimoto. They work great, but I was coming from OE Halogens. It was a PITA and quite expensive all-in. I wired in a completely separate fuse/relay box with a custom wrapped wiring harness with the R lights, using R ballasts, added in LED DRLs (with their own relay switched harness as well). Got the lights from a friend for $400 and took about $600 to finish it, as well as a ton of time. For ~$1k, I would do this again in a heartbeat coming from the OE halogens that were terrible, but switching from ABLs may not see that much of a benefit.

As for refinishing the plastic ABL lenses, wetsand down to ~2500 and hit it with some plastic polish on a random orbital. You can also directly clear coat them after wetsanding and they should look crystal clear. Use a 2K gloss clear coat like Eastwood sells. It will bond better and dry significantly faster/harder. I have Lamin-x on top of my glass headlight lenses and they work fine, but do yellow and stain after a while.

WP/TB is pretty straight forward on P2's. I tackled mine in an afternoon without too many issues, but I purchased an air compressor with 1/2" Impact to get the pulley nut off. When you replaced the PCV Banjo bolt, did you go through and clean/replace the whole PCV system? At 130k, your car should be due. I tackled mine at around 140k and it was still very clean, but I've been pretty meticulously maintaining my car since 20k miles (10 years ago). If you're looking to get a spare K24 and sending out for a rebuild/balance, it may be a good time to look into hybrid compressor wheels as well since the cost is relatively low.

Best of luck going forward!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Good progress. These cars can last a long time so you can take your time to make corrections to restore it.

I would stick with the ABLs in your position. I retrofitted R lights with bi-xenon projectors from TRS/Morimoto. They work great, but I was coming from OE Halogens. It was a PITA and quite expensive all-in. I wired in a completely separate fuse/relay box with a custom wrapped wiring harness with the R lights, using R ballasts, added in LED DRLs (with their own relay switched harness as well). Got the lights from a friend for $400 and took about $600 to finish it, as well as a ton of time. For ~$1k, I would do this again in a heartbeat coming from the OE halogens that were terrible, but switching from ABLs may not see that much of a benefit.

As for refinishing the plastic ABL lenses, wetsand down to ~2500 and hit it with some plastic polish on a random orbital. You can also directly clear coat them after wetsanding and they should look crystal clear. Use a 2K gloss clear coat like Eastwood sells. It will bond better and dry significantly faster/harder. I have Lamin-x on top of my glass headlight lenses and they work fine, but do yellow and stain after a while.

WP/TB is pretty straight forward on P2's. I tackled mine in an afternoon without too many issues, but I purchased an air compressor with 1/2" Impact to get the pulley nut off. When you replaced the PCV Banjo bolt, did you go through and clean/replace the whole PCV system? At 130k, your car should be due. I tackled mine at around 140k and it was still very clean, but I've been pretty meticulously maintaining my car since 20k miles (10 years ago). If you're looking to get a spare K24 and sending out for a rebuild/balance, it may be a good time to look into hybrid compressor wheels as well since the cost is relatively low.

Best of luck going forward!
I’ll look into the refinishing process you mentioned, thanks. I previously used a 3M kit which left a lot to be desired.

As for the TB/WP, I’m a tech part time (during the summers when not at UMass) at a local Volvo indy shop. At this point I’ve done most major repairs on P2s, I actually just did a belt and pump yesterday lol so I’m not worried about that. The PCV system also seems to be working fine as I have plenty of vacuum when testing with a kit (or a glove), so I’m going to hold off unless you have other recommendations that I’m not aware of?

And for the hybrid wheel, I was definitely considering getting a hybrid wheel, but didn’t know if it was worth it without a tune or any other bolt-on modifications. Can you elaborate more on this topic? Thanks!
 

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