[TrstnBrtt]

Here’s a fun fact about the camera in the windshield, there are 2 clips on the front and rear that secure the module to the windshield itself, BUT the Forward Sensing Module itself is two pieces held in by a ribbon cable (the lower module and the camera scanner). Those two pieces are held together with 4 clips around the module that are visible and accessible from the outside. If you release the 4 clips and pull the module down, you’re not releasing the entire module itself, you’re releasing just the bottom part and snapping the ribbon cable (it’s not very long), breaking the Forward Sensing Module itself. It’s very deceptive. There’s no screws or anything that hold the module together. I’d put money on that Module being R&I’d incorrectly.

Ask me how I know and what my car’s symptoms were when I broke it.


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[TrstnBrtt]

Did you replace it or repair it? If replaced, did you do it or Volvo do it? A new module is expensive (around $600.00) and would require programming for the computer (ecm) to recognize it. Then it would have to be recalibrated before all the functions would be restored. I have yet to resolve the issue with mine because I want to make sure it's not a wiring or canbus problem. The guys that replaced the windshield did not take the camera apart. I was there the whole time watching the process and the only thing that seemed out of place was that they had to cut two metal pieces at the top center of the windshield to get the windshield to release. After the windshield was removed they removed the two remaining pieces of metal when they trimed the sealant down to the desired height before reapplying the new sealant/adhesive to the windshield frame. I looked at the wiring that comes out of the headliner to all the components on the windshield and did not see any cuts or abrasions. My next attempt to figure out the problem will be to check the canbus voltages to see if the cem is sending and receiving the signals needed thus eliminating the wiring part of the equation. That would leave the camera as the only part that could be bad.
Thanks TrstnBrtt for the reply.

I kind of cheated with mine - I work in auto body, so the calibration wasn’t a problem. Basically I ordered a used FSM from a recycler, took it apart and transferred the camera (with the ribbon cable attached to it) to my existing FSM and installed it. The calibration went successfully. For a 2015+ the car will go into learning mode for calibration each time it is restarted- if the conditions aren’t met within half an hour it basically gives up until next time you start it.


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[TrstnBrtt]

I will mention that Volvo doesn’t officially support module swaps… I’m not sure if there’s a technical reason or they would rather just make money from selling the spare parts. Either way if you are taking apart your FSM, once you pry the 4 clips off remove the camera portion from the module itself VERY slowly, peek inside and make sure that ribbon cable isn’t going to get severed. It’s quite brittle.

IF you do get one off of eBay or from a recycler make sure the part numbers are the same- there was a software change to them at some point (I think when City Safety start working at speeds to 49 KM/h from 29), as I noticed that some eBay listings were incorrectly listing the radar sensor as the camera, which is obviously not correct. You should keep us updated, I’m super invested now!


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[TrstnBrtt]

I took the module apart yesterday and sure enough the wiring was completely broke in two. Looked like someone cut it with scissors. Now to get another one on order and swap out the camera. Why are these flat cables so susceptible to breaking. I plan on a little reinforcement during reassembly. Hopefully that might stop this from happening again.
TrstnBrtt, thanks again for the heads up on the camera replacement.

Glad it was an easy solve - good luck with it. You’ll still need to do the calibration on the car. If you’ve got a scan pad go into the FSM Module and there should be an obvious button for calibration. It’ll give you the road requirements to complete it. It’s a frustrating process, so there’s that hurdle lol


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[TrstnBrtt]

I do have a scan tool that will do the recalibration so if all goes well I should have everthing back to normal soon. I post the results when I get finished. I did have to improvise on the Torx/Allen bit to get the four screws out of the board to get the other piece of ribbon out. Other than that no problem. Wish there was a good auto recycler around I could get the module from.

What city/country are you in?


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[TrstnBrtt]

I’m in Vancouver. I was going to suggest car-part.com but then you run the risk of the recycler removing it wrong too.


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