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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, all!<p> I've heard that a popular conversion 'back in the day' was to refit vented brake rotors (from a 160 series?) to the 140; I'm going to be doing a brake overhaul in the next week or two, so... any ideas on what may fit a 1970? Do the calipers need to be changed, as well? Is it only the front rotors, or could vented rear rotors be available? I live in a fairly hilly area, so any brake improvement is a plus <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Vented front brake rotors (VolvoBob)

Thanks, Bob!<p> Would a factory 160-series caliper bolt up to my 1970 144? I understand some 160 rotors were solid and some vented. How could I tell, if I were buying sight unseen? Anyone know of a year/model where the brake rotors were definitely vented? And would I need to alter my brake plumbing for the new calipers? Would I need to change out the master cylinder to keep the proportioning right?<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Alaric at 6:46 AM 6-27-2006</i>
 

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Re: Vented front brake rotors (Alaric)

hey alaric!<br>no answers for you, but i live in portland, and need Girling front calipers for my 144, or a rebuild kit. <br>any chance you've got girlings on yours and may consider parting with them when you do your overhaul? if not, have you happened across the rebuild kit in your research?<br>
 

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Re: Vented front brake rotors (pelos)

Lee;<p>All 140 brake items are available new through Volvo.<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Re: Vented front brake rotors (Alaric)

I did this on my long departed '70 145 rally car. (okay, my mechanic did it.) In any case, the calipers will bolt up. You need to change both the rotors and calipers. You should also consider changing the wheel studs. Since the rotor is slightly thicker, the old studs are just barely long enough for some wheels and too short for others. The other thing you should consider doing is replacing the rubber front brake hoses with stainless steel ones. IPD sells these.<p>Good Luck,<br>- John
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Vented front brake rotors (pelos)

Lee,<p> I got a trunk (yes, my 144's trunk) full of spares, most of which came from my '68, which was all Girling. Sadly, I didn't save any of the brake bits except the master cylinder (which, unfortunately, I need)... too bad we didn't connect sooner. But if you contact Halsey Imports (N.E. 77th & Halsey, I think) they have the best prices I've found... and cool people, even if they are VW-centric! I used them for my '68 brake calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Vented front brake rotors (jwernerny)

John,<p> Good to know! I was pretty sure the conversion wouldn't be too hard, since it was popular back in the day. The stud tip is a definite plus! Not something I would have thought of, but it *is* common sense (guess that's why it didn't occur to me).<p> As far as replacing the hoses, ipd can't help me (I'm one of the 'orphan' years), but since I work for Applied Industrial Technologies, I have my pick of hoses, fittings, and techs... I think I can manage... (*grin*)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Vented front brake rotors (pelos)

Lee,<p> I speed-read your message the first time around, and didn't digest it. To answer your question properly, my master cylinder is bad (hence my previous), but I haven't looked at my calipers yet, although they're fine (I hope). The rotors are certainly gone... and so is the master cylinder; this doesn't bode well for the calipers, although the car still stops OK... Send me an e-mail, and we'll see if I can't help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: Vented front brake rotors (Alaric)

John,<p> I'm a devoted ipd fan (after all, they're hometown boys and I can wander down and pick what I want without mail-order; in fact, I once bought a parts car from one of their employees. The story behind that car is one I'm still considering turning into a novel [it was a '65 122s, <heavily> modified, BTW; by the employee's father, really.]) but profit-and-loss can be a harsh mistress; needless to say, ipd doesn't offer a soft hose kit for my car.<p> You know, like, 140's are so...like...*brick*, man... (grin)<p> Not to worry, I work for a place that has no end of Aeroquip, Weatherhead, Legris, Dixon, Parker, Schrader, et. al. on tap. And to top it off, hose fab. techs (grin)!<p> Oh, if only we dealt in auto parts... oh, well. My wits (and ability to cross-reference) have gotten me by thus far.<p> If I could ask one question: what would you think would be the max. pressure generated in the braking system, or likely to be encountered by the soft lines?
 

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Re: Vented front brake rotors (Alaric)

No idea about max pressures. <p>On my 145, I actually got what I needed from a race shop. This was about a decade before IPD offered the DOT legal ones.<p>Sorry,<br>- John
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: Vented front brake rotors (Alaric)

Lee,<p> After employing extremely sophisticated diagnostic techniques on my braking system (I got on my back and stuck my head under the car), I've determined that my pressure problem probably isn't the master cylinder; the rear passenger-side caliper is spraying brake fluid on the tire.<br> Having said that, the master cylinder still needs replacing, since a pedal that goes all the way to the floor (even once) after many years of normal braking usually means that the master cylinder seals are trashed. On the bright side, looks like I have 3 good calipers; not sure if they're Girling or ATE. The pads & rotors in front are definitely trashed, though; I can tell by looking. Can't see the rear well enough (with the wheels on) to say what shape they're in...but I'm not hopeful.
 

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Re: Vented front brake rotors (Alaric)

Don't play games with this, redo the whole system!<br>If one item is that bad, think about the rest!<br>Do all the calipers and hoses and the master, your physicial well being is at stake here!! Make sure you can stop good before you wory about going!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: Vented front brake rotors (VolvoBob)

Bob,<p> You're absolutely right, and that's just the approach that I'm taking (hence the upgrade speculation; why not kill two birds with one stone?).<p> Having said that, there are times when the horror of economics comes into play; if the rear driver's side caliper tests out OK, I'll likely keep it and only replace *three* calipers (two of which I'll have to eat the core charge on). That still means rotors & pads for all 4 wheels, 3 calipers, the soft lines, and quite a few hours of my time. Why <B><I>not</I></B> economize where I can?<p> By the way, how did the cat. thing turn out? I never did hear what the root cause was, but I'm really curious. <p><br><i>Modified by Alaric at 6:56 AM 7-7-2006</i><p><br><i>Modified by Alaric at 6:57 AM 7-7-2006</i><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Alaric at 7:16 AM 7-7-2006</i>
 
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