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My project tomorrow. Anyone have the proper torque specs for the caliper backets and whatnot?

 

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Tight like my life depends on it?

Looks like similar setups use 22 ft. lb. for the pins and brackets are 52 ft. lb.

Unless someone has another suggestion, that's what I'll use.
^
 

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What's that translate to in ugga-duggas?
Depends on your ugga-dugga-er?

I’ve been really enjoying my Milwaukee fuel 3/8” stubby impact. New go to. That sucker will take a subframe bolt out!
 

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Depends on your ugga-dugga-er?

I’ve been really enjoying my Milwaukee fuel 3/8” stubby impact. New go to. That sucker will take a subframe bolt out!
12 or 18 volt?...I’ve been considering grabbing a couple pieces from the M12Fuel line.
 

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Nice! I really like how compact the M12 tools are. I just did a light rehab on a condo we bought, and the bulk of my old 18v drill/driver was a limiting factor.

I got a decent (Sunex) set of 1/2 sockets, and am debating between the stubby and the right angle. The M12 Fuel Surge Hex Driver would probably be useful for a wider variety of tasks, but it seems like it will fall short on practical power, as I’m seeing a lot of reviews that say the hex to socket adapters break easily.

Sorry for the hijack, CW.
 

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Sorry for the hijack, CW.
All good, sir, all good. I'm always open to learning new things, even about tools. (See below.)


What's that translate to in ugga-duggas?
Based on my sore shoulders and aching lower back, I think power/air tools would have been helpful for extra ugga-dugga power, LOL. Well, at least I need to find an appropriate sized pipe to use as a cheater on my ratchet! I don't know how you guys wrench all the time without a lift -- working bent over and on the stands/ground killed me even within the context of stealing space in a friends heated garage.

So, the blue box front pads barely fit over the Zimmermann rotors; I basically had to force them on. Not sure if that is typical, but I chalked it up to the fact that I probably need new calipers, or at least a rebuild. On one side the caliper boot had slid forward and the other one had a rip in it. Both had rust on the piston and will need to be addressed more than the quick cleaning and grease I did yesterday. Obviously, I wasn't anticipating that and didn't have those on-hand and will have to do so later. Point is that is my guess as to why the pads were such a tight fit is debris that wouldn't let the piston retract all the way back. Open to opinions about whether a rebuild kit or new is better.

Rear lines have cracks in the rubber coating and need to be replaced. Not sure why I bought new lines for the front and not for the rear. I'm goofy sometimes (SMH). Front lines were visually fine, but I'll replace them anyways once I have the rear ones and decide about the calipers.

Driver's-side end link is bent. I'm guessing I hit a pothole at some point even though I don't remember hitting anything hard enough to do that kind of damage and I couldn't see any bends to the wheels, but it is Chicago! [shrug] (Roads suck here.)

Once the brakes are done, I still have an endless list of "on the horizon" maintenance. Almost time for a timing belt and associated parts refresh. Passenger-side spring seat has started to make a little noise and leaning towards a complete suspension overhaul. I'm actually happy that the tires are almost ready to be replaced as that's an excuse to throw some tires on the Volans that have been sitting in my storage for way too long. And, and, and... it never ends. Almost as bad as owning a home. 🙄
 

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I probably need new calipers, or at least a rebuild... Open to opinions about whether a rebuild kit or new is better.
Polishing out the casting marks made a massive difference in the look of the (OEM) calipers.
 
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New calipers and paint em while they’re off
 

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When I removed the plastic pieces that cover the struts, I did discover the DS bolt that anchors the seatbelt for the third row to the ceiling was previously cross threaded and doesn't screw in all the way. Hopefully, if I can locate a new bolt, it will seat nicely. If not, it will need a tap and die, because the anchor appears to be part of the body. Not really looking forward to buying and learning to use said tool, but I guess it's about time.
Small update: When I was returning the jack stands that I used to change the pads and rotors, my friend had the proper tools to clean the threads on the anchor point. I've never had a reason for someone to ride back there, so I wasn't really worried about the safety aspect of the seat belt being not fully attached. However, now that the metal bracket is tight against the body, it is one less thing to rattle around and make noise! (y)
 
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