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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Evening all - I have this thread to document my rebuild of my 2005 S60R, and its life in general.

Initial Purchase - 177k
Initially, the decision was between this car and its brother that had 112k on the chassis.

The 112k R was an automatic, and had worn interior and suspension and was throwing several codes. The paint was shafted in a bunch of places. No factory body kit.
This car had a very good condition interior, manual, and good exterior other than the hashed front spoiler and tail light. Factory body kit.






Issues
  • Fog light borken
  • Front bumper hashed
  • Rear bumper cracked on the factory body kit.

Phase 1 Repairs

Ordered VIAS Unit
Seemed to be a necessary evil for troubleshooting.

Tires
Going into winter I had Nokian Haakepelita's fitted for snow work.

Engine Troubleshooting
  • SUMMARY - fuel injector rebuild successfully took out most misfiring. New rail sensor and plugs also helped some.
  • old data:
  • I have the engine bay apart and have taken the fuel injectors for rebuild.
  • My Cylinder 3 misfire isn't coil related.
  • The plug was a newish looking volvo plug.
  • Cleaned MAF.
  • Ordered a new rail pressure sensor as it was throwing a code.


Tail Light Swap



Mods in order of awesome
GROM bt unit (tunes)
Poly subframe bushes (best handling mod so far)
Poly mount bar inserts (better shifting oddly)
Poly upper torque mount (shifting better oddly)
BC coil overs (better everything, but still dialing in)

Next mods:
IPD sways sitting in garage.
New coil packs for more fun
New wheels and tires for summer
Vinyl wrap

I have been keeping a detailed log of my R's maintenance costs and upgrades. This is sorta horrifying. LOL.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1b-lwygXXUqThY5A7fc5k3QeL5z10blyw143db0ry-Ns/edit?usp=sharing
 

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becareful that cylinder 3 misfire isn't a cracked cylinder sleeve. keep an eye on it and if it stumbles on start up and notice youre loosing coolant without it going anywhere then that may be your reason why...


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have heard that, and am quite concerned by it. If that is the case there is a 71k motor down the road from me for $1350.

I wonder if I should do the T5 block swap though - not certain what that entails.

I'm still feeling my way back into Volvo's after 10 years of being gone, and being a RWD guy back in the day.
 

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could also be the wrong plug. R's take longer plugs unlike the other s60 models


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not a bad idea. If she is toast a low mile motor won't upset me much.
 

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It sounds like you've singled out the coil but be sure to check the plug and make sure that it's gapped to spec. Also be sure to take a look at the wiring. I had my coil and VVT solenoid wire harness redone because it was in such a sad state. I can see that causing issues too.

As far as the combustion gas check, you don't need to buy a kit. Autozone will rent one out to you along with test fluid with a deposit of ~$20. They refund the full deposit when you return the kit. I would guess that O'Reilly offers them as loaner tools too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Yeah - it isn't the coil. I have swapped them. All were newer-ish looking volvo coils, but the Number 3 coil was made in Slovenia instead of Germany. Someone had changed it to start troubleshooting this.

Plug had a brown haze, but looked OK.

The fuel injector for 3 was much dirtier than the others. Could be spilled oil from the oil fill, and could be an aging problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Injector rebuilder called. Cylinder 3's injector was ruined, and another injector was spraying half a pattern. Cylinder 3 had a 20% reduction in flow and dripped. It was irreparable as well.

Now its time to see if that was the root cause. 2 new injectors on the way for Friday. Wish me luck.
 

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Goofy Volvo warning

[*]Ordered a new rail pressure sensor as it was throwing a code.
FWIW, I replaced my FPS on a Saturday and cleared the CEL, which came back on the 1st or 2nd drive. I drove it that evening, Sunday, and Monday. On Tuesday when I fired it up (cold), once the idle speed settled I could tell that the idle felt slightly more robust than it had in a long time. After that the CEL would stay cleared...

IOW, it took 3 days' driving (and subsequent ambient/cold starts!) before the goofy Volvo ECU :confused: would recognize/accept the errorless FPS condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Today I find out if my issue was the fuel injectors/pressure sensor or if I have a cracked block. Fun! If the injectors don't straighten it I'll be rocking the combustion vapor test.
 

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If your injector guy is right hopefully that was your issue. That's the reason why I spent the $$$ on new injectors as part of my engine rebuild. Last thing you want on a fresh motor is a weak injector burning out one of your cylinders with a lean condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok. So I replaced all that stuff. The idle sucks pretty bad. I popped the maf connector off and it didn't help.

No codes in obd I I yet, I'll have vida to check later. Also going to autozone to rent the combustion gas tester.

It may need some time to learn a new idle. It stumbles some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Took it around the block after it got hot. Hammered it some, strong pull no issues. No cel and such.

Combustion leak tester shows no leak.

Put In the new hid bulb and it didn't work. Ordered a new ballast next. Had some other bulbs hat also didn't operate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's smoothing out I think. Gonna drive it a few times today. See what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Updated the status on my recent work. HID passenger light works now, and some other stuff was fixed. Engine seems to be running better.

Cleaning the heck out of the interior as well. It was in good shape, now even better.

I will reinstall the old bumper cover for now while I have the new one painted. The new bumper attachment panels and rethreading the hole in the front steel actual bumper should help with all of that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just ordered most of a new front suspension - Ball joints, sway links, control arms. The current one is wishy washy IMHO. Went Lemfoerder on all of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ordered more new suspension stuff. Upper spring seats and bearings. Man they needed it. The ball joint and control arms oddly seemed fine. Both were newer and obviously Volvo parts.

Used vida for the first time. Cleared 200 codes thrown as my battery died lol. Also reset the srs code from the radio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Updates -

Front strut mounts were ruined. Front sway links toasted. Replaced all of that and put it back together. Took it for an alignment, and found the rear toe bar was bent.

Also installed the FCP subframe bushing inserts. Easy job.

Handling is quite good, needs an alignment after I get the new rear toe bar. Alignment check showed that toe was .11 out, and the rest was in spec. I'm going to have them move it some though for better handling when it gets back in the shop.

I'll be installing a new passenger window and mirror this weekend as both are hashed.
 
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