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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I hope more than two people view this because im going to ask about all the issues im having here instead of making different threads.

First issue- Replaced my left inner and outer CV boots and repacked with grease. I have slight vibration that increases with speed (may be because one clip is a hose clamp, ordered proper clip so ill see if that fixes it later this week). I got an alignment and it didnt help.

Second issue- After the alignment my front left tie rod is now making creaking noise when turning left. I just replaced these this year with lefor(oem) parts. Could the alignment people not have tighten the tie rod correctly or do you think they need replacing already?

Third issue- Alignment could not get Rear camber. I ordered camber bushing and ill try to tackle that issue later this week. Is it easier to remove whatever the bushing needs to be pressed into? Also I am still a little confused as to what part the bushing needs to replace.

Forth issue- Alignment could not get FRONT toe. Im using IPD lowering springs and the shop could not get front toe. its sitting at like -2.5 and -2.3. They talked about racing toes but I cant fit any for our car plus I know there are a ton of us who are lowered and they have good front toe. My question is will adjustable rear toe links (IPD) fix front toe, if not how can I get front into toe?

Fifth issue- I have a seal going back under the car. Which seal is this? How intensive will it be to replace? Can it be done on the road (bare in mind I replaced all struts, springs, tie rods, etc on the street). How much would it cost for a shop to replace? Picture included.

*PICTURE IS ONLY FOR FIFTH ISSUE*


Sixth issue (minor)- Even though I have replaced all struts and springs, the rear is still pretty nosiey over bumps. What are other things to replace that should help that?

Help with any of these issues would be awesome as im getting pretty tired of always fixing things and pouring money into repairs. I have put about 6.5k in here this year. And so far about 18K total (including buying, not including fees, or standard maintenance). Thankfully im going to fly to MA to buy a new daily so I can fix issues on this car and not be vehicle-less.
 

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First issue: the vibration with speed may mean your alignment is off, happened to me.
Second issue: on my old s60 it would creak and my wheel bearing was bad. I'm not sure if you mean exactly the tie rod or just that area.
Sixth issue: It seems you replaced the mounts but check those if you didn't. If not your 4C may be acting up and you might need a calibration or software update if you didnt have one.

This is all just opinion based off of past experience, I'm no expert by any means. But that's just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First issue: the vibration with speed may mean your alignment is off, happened to me.
Second issue: on my old s60 it would creak and my wheel bearing was bad. I'm not sure if you mean exactly the tie rod or just that area.
Sixth issue: It seems you replaced the mounts but check those if you didn't. If not your 4C may be acting up and you might need a calibration or software update if you didnt have one.

This is all just opinion based off of past experience, I'm no expert by any means. But that's just my 2 cents.
Thats where i started first was the alignment but it didnt help then other issues came because of it lol. Im hoping its just my hose clamp being to off weighted and is causing. If not ill just buy a new axle and keep this as a spare for when the new one goes.

Its the inner tie rod, ive laid on the ground and turned the wheel and heard it from there. The car has had all 4 wheel bearings replaced 2 years ago and they are still tight.

I do need to do a SUM still (wanted to wait for a proper alignment) so maybe that would help.
 

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yeah depending on where you got your alignment it might not be 100% that great. if your SUM is off that causes a lot of whacky crap too.

there's no way the tie rod would be shot after one year. they might not have done it correctly or maybe you got a bad part.
 

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That leak is either the AG seal, or the AG collar seal or right driveshaft seal on the tranny. I've currently got a seep from there after rebuilding everything, so if it doesn't get any better with time I will be pulling the right axle and AG to determine exactly where its coming from as well as inspect how my AG collar mods are holding up.
 

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Couldn't get toe? Bizarre. I haven't seen that yet in my research. Wonder if you have the right tie rod ends. Also, I wonder if yu have a bent rim in front. Maybe the toe is fine but the machine is behaving stupid because the mount point is off. Did the check it on the wheels or on the brake disks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didnt check anything its the shop and both toes are off in the front so I doubt its a bent rim on both sides. I agree its bizarre as I havent seen anyone else have issues with front toe before when running lowering springs.
These are the tie rods I went with which state they are for the R and I got the numbers from another member.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-steering-tie-rod-end-front-right-s60-s80-v70-30761718
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45A1048-Professional-Inner-Steering/dp/B0010DLHDA
 

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Bizarro - let us know what it turns out to be.
 

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Angle gear for sure... I mean smell the oil but I have the same seepage. Check it every oil change, that's what I do. If it's the big outer clamp the correct one is an Oetiker 102.5mm they're cheap on eBay.

Were your strut mounts replaced? If everything has been replaced and they still can't align it maybe its time for camber plates...
 

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If the current shop can't get the toe dialed, and can't find the reason why (like a worn bushing or bent wheel), then take it to an alignment specialist. The IPD rear toe links will not affect any aspect of the front suspension. They are for dialing in rear toe only. The rear camber isn't adjustable if memory serves me. IPD's camber bushings look like they should be installed by an alignment specialist so the desired camber settings are achieved.

Your vibration sounds like an out of balance or possibly bent wheel. That should be pretty easy for an experienced tire guy to determine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If your LCA bushings are shot it could be contributing to issues properly setting your toe.
Control arms were JUST replaced a week ago (kinda what caused all this to appear but had a really noisy front before replacing.) Replaced with IPD control arms. Ball joints replaced at the same time as well.

Angle gear for sure... I mean smell the oil but I have the same seepage. Check it every oil change, that's what I do. If it's the big outer clamp the correct one is an Oetiker 102.5mm they're cheap on eBay.

Were your strut mounts replaced? If everything has been replaced and they still can't align it maybe its time for camber plates...
Yeah I got some new clips in today so I should be able to test to see if its the hose clamp. Im starting to think there is grit in the inner joint because it can be noisy.

Yes the strut mounts were also replace. OEM spec. I dont think they make camber plates for our cars and its the front toe that the issue. Front is in camber out of toe. Rear is in toe out of camber (got IPD camber bushing going in soon)

If the current shop can't get the toe dialed, and can't find the reason why (like a worn bushing or bent wheel), then take it to an alignment specialist. The IPD rear toe links will not affect any aspect of the front suspension. They are for dialing in rear toe only. The rear camber isn't adjustable if memory serves me. IPD's camber bushings look like they should be installed by an alignment specialist so the desired camber settings are achieved.

Your vibration sounds like an out of balance or possibly bent wheel. That should be pretty easy for an experienced tire guy to determine.
IPD bushings will be installed next week.

Ive looked the wheel over and it looks true. There was also zero vibration before I had to remove the axle.



Now the car will make creaking noise when moving forward from a stand still. Im thinking of just replacing both axles, and maybe the inner tie rod again if the shop cant get it alignment. :mad:
 

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Kaphlenke makes camber plates now but they're pricey.

Creaking could be ebrake or something. Swapping the axles

#6 is worn rear bushings I'd assume. Lots of rubber in Volvo IRS... I hear clunks going over speedbumps in the rear and the struts are new so its rubber I assume.

Tie rods are cheap, might as well do them first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Kaphlenke makes camber plates now but they're pricey.

Creaking could be ebrake or something. Swapping the axles

#6 is worn rear bushings I'd assume. Lots of rubber in Volvo IRS... I hear clunks going over speedbumps in the rear and the struts are new so its rubber I assume.

Tie rods are cheap, might as well do them first.
Tie rods were replaced this year and have less then 8k on them so I would hope they are fine still.

Creaking is coming from the front.

The rear noise can def be worn rubber. maybe ill replace everything there later next year as well. Hell this car is basically new now. lol
 
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