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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently picked up a set of used vanilla performances BRCs. All of the vanilla performance wheels are 19 by eight and a half. In case you don't know, they have been discontinued. 1 wheel in particular has cracked two times in the past, and has been repaired. I recently got a flat tire and found that it was that same wheel. It has 3 cracks in it right now, one of them at the location of a former repaired crack, and two new crack locations. Can it be saved with additional repairs? Or am I on the lookout for a replacement vanilla performance wheel, basically equivalent to trying to find a unicorn? Could it have a bad heat treat on it or something?
 

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I have Vanillas and one of them cracked, I blame the NH frost heaves, ****ty roads and the 4c suspension. I had the rim fixed and I upgraded my suspension to coilovers. The car is a lot more forgiving over the bumps than with the stock setup, yet at the same time, the car is stiffer and more responsive. The frost heaves and ****ty roads haven't caused me anymore rim issues.

If you want to keep those rims, I'd suggest getting coilovers, though I know it's absurd to suggest a $2000+ mod to support and ailing rim.

I'd also point out that any 19 inch rim will crack under the right circumstances, so I don't believe that the issue is because of Vanilla.
 

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An engineer has a car that works perfectly.
He takes it apart to find out why.
He puts it back together and finds many parts "left over".
it never runs as well again.
why?
he takes it apart again...then adds parts not original to the design.
it runs even worse.

that is progress.
That it is! My dad did just that to a Range Rover. There were many parts left over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have $2,000 coilovers. I don't believe they have any effect on whether or not rims crack.
 

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Speaking from experience here, I feel the R is a wheel breaker.

Our cars are like perfect storm of reason why.

First R's are heavy, almost 4000 lbs for my V70R.

The stock suspension doesn't have much travel and 4c isn't helping things.

Our ride is super crashes, and the R just don't go over crap in the payment well.

With larger wheel sizes, there's just not a ton of side wall left to absorb bumps and crap.

We also don't have much ground clearance. I have scrapped the bottom of my car in the middle trying to get through a exit to from the car wash.

Roads around here are a JOKE. 3,4,5 different terrible patch jobs over each other. Train tracks, drop offs, frost heaves, and the roads are only getting worse around me never better.

Back in the day I bent a set of factory OEM heavy Eagle Talon 17" wheels on my 98 Talon. The roads are such a joke it's not even funny.
 

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Yeah. Up here in CT it's not great either. I avoid half the roads. I agree it has a lot to do with the mass of the car. Everything just gets pounded. And as the car gets older and the soft rubber deteriorates it only gets more jerky.
 

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Speaking from experience here, I feel the R is a wheel breaker.

Our cars are like perfect storm of reason why.

First R's are heavy, almost 4000 lbs for my V70R.

The stock suspension doesn't have much travel and 4c isn't helping things.

Our ride is super crashes, and the R just don't go over crap in the payment well.

With larger wheel sizes, there's just not a ton of side wall left to absorb bumps and crap.

We also don't have much ground clearance. I have scrapped the bottom of my car in the middle trying to get through a exit to from the car wash.

Roads around here are a JOKE. 3,4,5 different terrible patch jobs over each other. Train tracks, drop offs, frost heaves, and the roads are only getting worse around me never better.

Back in the day I bent a set of factory OEM heavy Eagle Talon 17" wheels on my 98 Talon. The roads are such a joke it's not even funny.
These are the reasons why coilovers are better for the wheels. But even with the better suspension, it's not fool proof. Again, it's not the Vanillas.
 

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The R is not that heavy by modern car standards, a new mustang weighs more than an SR does and its just a two door sportscar.

I've also seen cars of all types bend and crack low profiles wheels on bad roads. Seems some R owners have an inferiority complex to think there is something wrong with the R when it breaks like all other cars when its driven into a giant pothole.

If you don't want to have as many risks to your tires get 17" rims and watch your risks massively decrease. If you run 18s or 19s, this is the potential price you pay when you live somewhere with realy ****ty roads.
 

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The R is not that heavy by modern car standards, a new mustang weighs more than an SR does and its just a two door sportscar.

I've also seen cars of all types bend and crack low profiles wheels on bad roads. Seems some R owners have an inferiority complex to think there is something wrong with the R when it breaks like all other cars when its driven into a giant pothole.

If you don't want to have as many risks to your tires get 17" rims and watch your risks massively decrease. If you run 18s or 19s, this is the potential price you pay when you live somewhere with realy ****ty roads.
Lets be fair, the 4C does have an aggressive reaction to potholes/sharp bumps. It feels like it nearly locks up the shock, I wouldn't be surprised if this was damaging wheels. I had to have one of my OEM 18" Pegs straightened (which really aren't that low profile), and the roads in Oregon are actually in very good shape.

By comparison, I've never had to straighten a wheel on any other car... But who knows.
 

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I was having some major crashines in my R over bumps too. decided to look into some easy fixes and came across a couple 4C mods.

1. Moving the front strut accelerometers from the strut location to a point on the body. This makes it so that they don't sense every little crack, but just the bigger bumps that cause body movement. SUCH A HUGE DIFFERENCE!!! In comfort it makes for a smoother ride over a a horrible road with alot of major holes, but over bigger humps and in general it is more boat-like. Sport is where its at and how the caR should ride IMO. no boatyness but you will feel the road like normal. and advanced is still teeth jarring lol.

2. If you have a lowered caR like mine, you should adjust the rear position sensors to accommodate its feeling of being (weighed down) it will soften up the suspension quite a bit also. I removed and bent the rods for the sensors with a torch and read the voltage of the sensor using vida to find the correct range.



There are write-ups on here for them but its easy and straight forward to do.
 
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