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V70 2010 / 2.5 FT
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello Swedspeed Community !

After lurking for quite some time, I decided to register ;)
I'm gonna introduce myself and my car later on in another thread.

This is truly a great Community with great Users and a huge load of useful info's - I just like to say a big THANKS straight away to all of you guys, I wouldn't be as happy with my Volvo if this Forum/Community wouldn't exist !

Now I want to tell my story real quick (or not... comment added after this text was finished) and hope that you can give me me some input to my questions underneath:

I bought my V70 in 10/2020. It had 124.000 KM on it and was in a good general condition. It was one of 3 with a 5 cylinder petrol engine, but the only one under 250.000 KM. No issues with the automatic Gearbox or Engine in general were noticeable on the test drive.

It then sat in my Garage until 03/2021 because I had a leasing car that ran out in 04/2021. I had a real hard waiting to finally get on the road with that sweet 5 Cylinder car :love: I had the car on a charger with a "care" program to make sure the Battery stays in a good condition. The first thing I noticed, was that the Airbag lamp came on when I started the car in order to drive it out of the Garage.

After I received the plates, I planned a service appointment and had the following things made (Oriented myself on the 120 TKM service plan):

  • Oil / oil Filter Change
  • Air Filter (Pipercross)
  • PCV / checked and cleaned
  • Spark plugs (Original Volvo !)
  • Break fluid changed
  • Servo oil filled up
The car was totally fine for 2.000 KM and I was happy as a young dog with it.

Then the issues started showing up. I noticed that it began to smell like burnt oil when driving upwards with high (~ 5.000 max) RPM's. First I wasn't concerned but it kept happening constantly. Then, I noticed that the shift behavior wasn't as good any more and the car's throttle response was bad too. Additionally, I noticed a reduced performance when accelerating and the boost collapsed and rose again in higher RPM's).

On one evening, I finally looked under the car on the passenger side, and saw that there was a lot of oil/grease on the driveshaft and the surroundings. Long story short: The Volvo dealer in the town did an analysis and came to the following conclusion:

1. The sleeve on the drive shaft (passenger side) was broken.
2. The driver Airbag (Steering wheel) was broken (According to Vida).
3. The camshaft / valve cover seal is broken (Fluid seal) !!

Estimate of costs: ~ 4.000 Euros (Including Airbag replacement, control belt + water pump etc.)

Needless to say that I went off with the car. The dealer did reset Airbag error and told me to look if it returns (Relevant info for later in this text).

I then went to a very good mechanic just around the corner and gave him the job.
It took almost one week to get the camshaft seal fixed! It turned out, that this area was already open once and also the whole head (area was perfectly clean, etc.) One screw of the camshaft casing was loose, and the whole area of the ignition coils was swimming in engine oil !!

Apparently, the that worked on that engine in the past, were complete *. Not only didn't they remove the original fluid seal from the surface of the cylinder head, we assume that they didn't apply the new fluid seal properly either 🤐
But the best were the crankshaft flywheel and camshaft wheel screws. They were tightened with 180 NM and 90 NM ! My mech called me and told me that he isn't sure if he is able to proceed, since he has a really hard time opening the crankshaft flywheel and camshaft screws! A few prayers and 2 days later he called me and said that I can come and get the car. The control belt, camshaft sealing and all the other parts that needed to be replaced got replaced too - so mechanically, everything is 1A now.

1.300 Euros lighter and a curse fueled discussion later, I left off with the V70. Now the engine and driveshaft are sealed properly again and I now have a very good relationship to mechanic ;)
The strange behavior of the Gearbox and throttle response were now the things to further take care of - and this is where the main story of this Thread starts.

1.) Gearbox:

  • Rough gear change when cold - especially when driving downhill and from gear 3 to 2 (Doesn't occur when on temp)
  • Lag in the gear change process when accelerating (more lag occurring when accelerating normally, less when you floor it) It's like you let the clutch slip for 2 seconds and then go of the pedal completely when you up shift.
  • When driving and going of the accelerator pedal, the car keeps "pushing" when reaching 1.000 RPM. It's like it doesn't really want to downshift.

2.) Throttle response / Engine performance:

  • Bucking when in coasting mode and going back on the gas. This doesn't happen when I engage the cruise control.
  • Bucking in constant drive - is worse when it's cold outside / the engine is cold.
  • Poor performance in lower RPMs
  • When flooring it, the car accelerates poorly to around 3.000 RPM, after leaving this RPM area it pulls noticeably better, but the Boost drops around 2-3 times to nearly zero until you reach max RPMs
  • In idle: RPM's drop every few seconds for 100-200 RPM's and then come back up to normal idle

I got a small OBD2 Display mounted on my dashboard, and on full throttle, the throttle flap doesn't open up for more than 84% - no matter which RPM area.

The car by the way doesn't throw any error.

What did I about it so far:

Battery replaced:
Exactly on the day when I wanted to drive to the workshop of my mech, I was welcomed by an "ATTENTION - BATTERY LOW" message of my OBD2 display. Apparently, the Battery (Seemed to be the original one!) died within the series of very hot days that we had here. My mech also replaced the Battery aaaaaaaand: The Airbag error is completely GONE! Wow.... this is quite 'interesting' to say at least.

Gearbox oil change: I did a lot of research around flushing/changing the gearbox. My mech, and I trust him with this, said he would first just change the oil, drive for a few 1000 KMs and then change it again (2 or 3 times in sum) over flushing the gearbox. Why ? At this age of the gearbox he told me, it's likely that residues inside the Gearbox tend to get loose when flushing it, and probably clog the solenoids. Oil change counter was NOT resetted by the way!

Throttle body: I cleaned it real tidy. The inside was pretty covered with an oil and dirt film.

MAF sensor: Cleaned it too. The issue here is, that the electronics and the pipe are 1 part. There were versions of this Bosch MAF that were 2 parts, but this one isn't (Apparently this is an older version of those MAF's). Wasn't really dirty inside at all.

Now to sum things up, all the misbehavior got a LOT better, but I think it's not perfect or as good as it could be.
Throttle response and low RPM performance is now better than when I first got the car. Shift behavior first was as bad as prior to the oil change, but I think it's getting better the more I drive the car. The oil change of the Gearbox lies around 700 KM in the past. The throttle body got cleaned on the last weekend and the MAF sensor was just put in place clean before I got to the PC.

My questions now are:

1. Gearbox: Do I have to reset the oil change counter? And is it possible that the Gearbox has to adapt to the new oil conditions before the shift behavior improves ?

2. Throttle body: Which opening % value is normal on full acceleration ?

3. MAF: Which values regarding the flow rate are normal? I measured 3.58 g/s while driving constantly with around 50 km/h today.

And finally:

4. When the symptoms stay, what can I check next ?

Regarding the Gearbox, I tend to do another oil change soon and look if it's getting better. For the cost of 1 flushing, I get 3 oil changes here. When in sum the oil got completely replaced after 3 oil changes and it keeps behaving sh*tty, I thought about replacing the solenoids with Sonnax and inspect the oil runways + replace the valve body if necessary.

And for the throttle response / Engine performance topic, I was thinking about replacing the boost control valve, the diverter valve and the waste gate probably. I have plans to tune the car to ~ 400 - 420 NM and respective HP's and this will come in handy for those plans I guess.

I by the way ordered a DICE last week and already prepared a VM with VIDA 2014, to be able to log some data for the further analysis.

Wow - that's a very long text and I salute to you when you made it until here :)
Since pictures are saying more than 1000 words, I uploaded some before/after photos of the throttle body, MAF sensor and finally of the friggin camshaft sealing action:

Click me hard to view photos

Many many thanks in advance !!

Have a very nice weekend.
Regards,
Max.
 

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V70 2010 / 2.5 FT
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Update:

Gearbox: After doing a lot of research I came to the conclusion, that I will go ahead with the oil changes and will perform an oil counter reset after the last change. Then, a phase of adaption will follow for a few thousand KM's and I'm gonna look if things are getting better. If not, I'll take care of the solenoids. If this doesn't help either, it means that some insides are potentially damaged and the Gearbox has to be serviced. When doing so, the internal filter will be deleted and an external one will be installed. Gonna take a look on the torque converter and the clutch packs too.

Sources (Kudos to the respective people that provided these Infos:)


Since the MAF sensor and the throttle body are playing a role regarding the behavior of the Gearbox, I'mm thinking about replacing them. But first I'm gonna measure some parameters with the Oscilloscope I just ordered.

Following questions remain unanswered:

2. Throttle body: Which opening % value is normal on full acceleration ?

3. MAF sensor: Which values regarding the flow rate are normal? I measured 3.58 g/s while driving constantly with around 50 km/h today.

Thanks ! ✌
 

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Registered
V70 2010 / 2.5 FT
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Update for whom it may concerns:

MAF sensor Test:


  • I did perform a test ride with the MAF disconnected.
  • The drop of the Boost in higher Revs while flooring it was gone !
  • Also, the Engine in general ran normal - no stuttering or bad throttle response. Smooth as butter
  • Decreased overall performance though, but that's normal I guess because the ECU relying on standard values for everything when the MAF isn't connected

Throttle body behavior (observed while the test ride described above):

  • Opening value is at around 70% in park mode and running engine
  • Opening value while flooring it is between 70% and 80% - it's varying though
  • On my research regarding the TB, I read the original fault procedure in VIDA2014.There is stated, that the throttle flap must return to it's original position when one turns it manually. When I cleaned the TB, I noticed that it doesn't return automatically. I think I'm gonna try to repair the TB before throwing 600 € at the Volvo dealer, since I have everything at home to check it mechanically and electronically.
I just dropped the car at the Volvo dealer for a safety callback regarding seatbelt that flew in 2 weeks ago.
They will have a look at the TB, MAF and also will reset the transmission oil change counter.


Update 2 hours later:

Dealer stated the following

  • Throttle body opening amount is 99% (+ TB was recalibrated)
  • MAF sensor values are normal


So I assume that my OBD2 Display is displaying crap.
The car now is accelerating smooth until the RPM max without boost drop.
The throttle response though isn't completely clean, it stutters a little bit when rolling and pressing the gas pedal again.

Will drive for a few hundred KM's now and will re-analyze then if things are getting better or not.
 
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