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Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Questions

23K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  volvoracer 
#1 ·
While doing a compression test a couple of weekends back I noticed that the top and threads of the number 3 spark plug were covered in fresh oil. My PCV system is nearly brand new as is my oil filler cap gasket and I do not put oil in my car without using a funnel. My guess is that a new valve cover gasket is in order. I've ordered a tube from Tasca but now I'm wondering if there's anything else I should replace while I'm at it. Anything come to mind?


How long will this job probably take?
 
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#9 ·
Got it. I will double check.

Volvo procedure is to apply to one side, the side with no dowels which is the top. The anaerobic sealer is a thin film sealant and more is not better. More is just more to squeeze outside and inside the head when the bolts are tightened. To the inside is possibly into the tappet oiling holes and into cam journals.
Cleaning the old stuff off and assuring the two surfaces are free from any oil residue is critical. DO not use anything that gouges as the grooves left from abusive cleaning will not let the sealant cure. The cleaning process is best done with gasket remover chemical readily available at auto stores. Volvo uses a paint on liquid of that chemical. The aerosol version at auto stores can be sprayed into a vessel and also painted on to areas where aerosol may be too much. A brass brush will get the old sealant off easily once the chemical has dissolved the sealant for 10 or so minutes.
The reason Volvo and others used this type sealant is to not only seal but to glue the two pieces together for rigidity. When it doesn't get the accelerant action of the copper in the aluminum alloy the bond and the curing is less than intended.
It is applied like a single coat of house paint. When the close-spaced bolts are torqued the excess sealant is displaced outward. Any that oozes out is pure waste as it stays liquid unless it is somewhere where air is excluded like cam journals.
Many thanks for the info. I will keep this in mind if I have to dive in this weekend.
 
#8 ·
Volvo procedure is to apply to one side, the side with no dowels which is the top. The anaerobic sealer is a thin film sealant and more is not better. More is just more to squeeze outside and inside the head when the bolts are tightened. To the inside is possibly into the tappet oiling holes and into cam journals.
Cleaning the old stuff off and assuring the two surfaces are free from any oil residue is critical. DO not use anything that gouges as the grooves left from abusive cleaning will not let the sealant cure. The cleaning process is best done with gasket remover chemical readily available at auto stores. Volvo uses a paint on liquid of that chemical. The aerosol version at auto stores can be sprayed into a vessel and also painted on to areas where aerosol may be too much. A brass brush will get the old sealant off easily once the chemical has dissolved the sealant for 10 or so minutes.
The reason Volvo and others used this type sealant is to not only seal but to glue the two pieces together for rigidity. When it doesn't get the accelerant action of the copper in the aluminum alloy the bond and the curing is less than intended.
It is applied like a single coat of house paint. When the close-spaced bolts are torqued the excess sealant is displaced outward. Any that oozes out is pure waste as it stays liquid unless it is somewhere where air is excluded like cam journals.
 
#10 ·
matt, i would double check, triple check and then get three other opinions to back it up then maybe proceed to redo the gasket.

It is not fun to do, it is time consuming, did i say its not fun. for a first timer this is a good 8 hour job. Not a hard job, you also need to do it right or you can mess up your engine pretty good.

I have done this job when i did a head gasket on a project car last year.

Dont recommend doing it at all.
 
#12 ·
I too have a leaking Cam Cover...3 bolts around #2 Plug stripped, they just turn in place.
Valley is oil filled.

Oil cap gasket is fine, PCV & hose are new 2 months back.

The oil leak is from stripped cover bolts.

I gather the whole cover gets removed and new pink gasket paste is applied.

I have to repair the stripped threads, will insert heli-coils while cover is off.
And new spark plug o-rings and Cam seals.

Question:
Do the Camshafts need to be locked down at the non-timing belt end?
Seems to me they will try to jump out of the motor with cover off...

Tempted to have my local Shop handle this one...
 
#13 ·
Yes, you need to lock the cams with a special cam locking tool and another one to push the cover back on, against the force of the valve springs.
I bought this set of cam look tools on eBay for $63.
I just did mine twice. I had forgotten to turn the crankshaft to the correct position the first time. So I took the cover off again to turn the crankshaft in the correct position, and put it back on.
 
#14 ·
Anyone know how deep the threads go into the lower half of the cam box? I want to order the correct length Heli-coils...
 
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