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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have been chasing a vacuum leak for some time . I think I have finally found it. But I am not sure of what I see. I ran the engine up to operating temp , then went all over the engine with propane until the idle changed. When I put the nozzle of the torch (with flame out) near where the fourth injector mounts to the engine the car idled up and was much smoother. Now I have changed all the injector rubber seals looking for this leak , but what I think is the leak is coming from the part that holds the injector its held to the engine with one hex screw. Now my question is there a seal or a gasket on the part the injector sits in the part bolted to the engine . I can't seem to find a listing for the seal only the injector seals . I hope I am being clear thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
vacuum leak

There's an O-ring under the injector mount -- did you replace that, or just the two seals on the injector itself?
NO I did not replace the o ring under the housing only the seals on the injector , I was not aware of the o ring seal . If anyone knows the part number of the seal or where I can get it I would be very thankful.
 

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The rubber O ring that fits between the aluminum injector holder and the head is 960218 or 960168. The first number is for early djet engines up until sometime in 1971. These engines do not have the phenolic spacers under the injector holder. The second number is for later engines which have a phenolic or fiber spacer under the injector holder. The fiber spacer is to reduce heat transfer to the injector body. You need to confirm which set up you have as the second O ring is thicker than the first O ring.

This is the complete seal kit.

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5896/104284-fuel-injector-seal-kit

The thin O ring in the middle is the one that fits between the injector holder and the head. IPD's kit looks like it is for the non spacer version.

IROLL sells the O rings individually:

http://irollmot.ipower.com/oscom/in...age=3&osCsid=0881f6899795c1e80774f6003a8b33c5
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the info, can anyone give me a hint on removing the hex head screw holding the injector base to the engine , I am a lil worried about snapping it off in the head . Its really tight and its been in place I assume since new . I have the right size allen wrench and a big lever but not looking to drill out broken studs. Thanks
 

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You could try spraying PB Blaster in the area; but, I really doubt that it is going to be able to work its way down into the threads. Heating with a torch is the other solution for the extraction of nasty stuck threaded parts; but, I don't think that is a good solution here. If you can find a hand held (strike with hammer type) impact driver that has allen head bits (I have never seen one with allen head bits), that might be a good solution to taking the bolts out.

As an observation, my B20E had been in non heated storage for about 25 years. I was able to remove the retaining bolts on the injector holders with regular allen keys with out any spectacular effort. In fact, it was probably one of the easiest parts to remove!

Make sure that your allen keys are really good quality, not some cheap auto parts store specials. You want an accurately machined key and one with high quality steel that is not going to round off when you apply torque to the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
vacuum leak

You could try spraying PB Blaster in the area; but, I really doubt that it is going to be able to work its way down into the threads. Heating with a torch is the other solution for the extraction of nasty stuck threaded parts; but, I don't think that is a good solution here. If you can find a hand held (strike with hammer type) impact driver that has allen head bits (I have never seen one with allen head bits), that might be a good solution to taking the bolts out.

As an observation, my B20E had been in non heated storage for about 25 years. I was able to remove the retaining bolts on the injector holders with regular allen keys with out any spectacular effort. In fact, it was probably one of the easiest parts to remove!

Make sure that your allen keys are really good quality, not some cheap auto parts store specials. You want an accurately machined key and one with high quality steel that is not going to round off when you apply torque to the bolt.
thanks for the info I will give it a try
 
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