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Discussion Starter #1
I took off the engine covers and the moved the inner wheel well shroud on the passenger side to see where oil was seeping from. It's definitely the valve covers! It looks like a very involved job. The Intake Manifold will need to be removed (will need new gaskets once removed) amongst other things. The question I have is, while I am doing this what other parts should be replaced? Anyone that has done this, please let me know what to look out for!
thx
 

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I saw a thread on here a while ago about someone asking about this since their mechanic quoted then a pretty high price and a long parts list. I'm sure somebody knows which thread I'm talking about. I tried to find it but Tapatalk isn't great at searching.

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Hm? Valve cover gasket? I'm not sure what that would be... But then again, I'm not entirely sure of how the V8 is laid out. Is it like, err, the top metal cover on the top of an old B21/B230 etc, older redblock volvo?
 

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It's a pretty straightforward job, Volere. Seems like you understand what is involved.

I would suggest replacing the VVT solenoid seals on each valve cover while you have them off. Oil sometimes leaks from there too.

Things to look out for: the ground wires on the rear cylinder bank. The nut securing them to the stud tends to stick. I've found it easier to cut the wire, then repair it as opposed to fighting with those nuts (2) in that tight space back there.
 

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Does anybody have a parts list for this? I looked underneath the plastic on ours and there's a lot of scuzzy stuff, if nothing else I'd like to start looking for future reference.
 

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I took off the engine covers and the moved the inner wheel well shroud on the passenger side to see where oil was seeping from. It's definitely the valve covers! It looks like a very involved job. The Intake Manifold will need to be removed (will need new gaskets once removed) amongst other things. The question I have is, while I am doing this what other parts should be replaced? Anyone that has done this, please let me know what to look out for!
thx
Not exactly "quick reply" but its not a quick job :) I assume you've taken an inspection mirror and traced the oil leak all the way unto the gaskets? A clogged PCV though rare can cause higher crankcase pressure and force oil out of the VC gaskets as well as the crank seal ... For the VC gaskets, if you have basic tools and some experience this is a straightforward job, the key tool here though is patience as there is quite a bit of disassembly to actually replace the gaskets. Take photos of the assembled areas first for reference on re-assembly, as I'd recommend stretching this out over 2 days first disassembly day 2 new parts / reassembly The gaskets are inexpensive it's the labor which determines the high price at a dealership or indy as there's no getting around it. The intake manifold needs to come off so while you're there, replace the fuel pressure sensor ( PN 31272730) as you will have to sooner or later -

The nifty engine covers on the V8 looks nice, but trap a lot of heat so if you're due for gaskets by now, every hose, wire and plastic connection is going to be brittle. There is a PCV crankcase breather hose running from one bank to the other, this was very brittle I'd suggest you buy that as well-( volvo PN 30720098) since you'll have the coil packs out I'd also replace the spark plugs I'm an OEM guy when it comes to spark plugs on this engine since unless there is something very wrong combustion-wise the original NGK's (branded volvo) work just fine and come pre-gapped, but do check them before installing and remove them in order and take a photo of them for later reference if needed. The other component worth considering while you are doing this job is the power steering pump. If it's whining or otherwise making noises I'd replace it while you've got things apart and accessible. Also while you have the plenum off I'd replace the sure to be brittle PCV vale hoses and PCV valve. the last parts I 'd consider replacing are the accessory serpentine tensioner, rollers and belt since you'll have them released, ( releasing the tension load is a critical job and should be done with very very even incremental torque if you're not replacing the tensioner. All n all these part in total are not cheap compare to the 100 or so for just the gaskets but it will give you peace of mind on those long trips if you know it's been done there are lots of DIY's around for them as it's a straight -forward job for all. if you bite the bullet and replace all of the above it will be more than you're planning on but it's several thousand $'s of work at a dealership as most will need the intake plenum removed at a minimum and all are easy to do and will put many more miles on your engine. *These recommendations are predicated on not having maintenance records to document replacement and no knowledge of your milage if you have had these parts replaced already all the better.

As far as parts you'll need new upper and lower intake gaskets and the valve cover gaskets for the front and rear banks as the others have suggested get the solenoid seals as well I dint replace them but you may need them - here is a parts link with the diagram you can buy them anywhere FCP volvo webstore is good though -http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Gasket/1111302/30720335.html

Here are a few process tips I found while doing my gaskets if you follow the chitons ( I bought a one month subscription - http://www.chiltondiy.com) as up to now I haven't needed to buy a VIDA disk 't's should give you all the picts and steps:
Tighten bolts/nuts to specification as follows:
Tighten valve cover mounting bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
Tighten ignition coil mounting bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
Tighten all bracket nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
Tighten intake manifold bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).

- I suggest only OEM gaskets not much more than aftermarket and the fit is best.
- I replaced the crankcase breather hose between the heads as it was very brittle due to heat, I also replaced the hose from under the upper manifold to the PCV valve and new PCV valve it's easy to do this now and if the pct needs replacing this hose gets cracked and brittle as well and is a pita to get on without removing the upper manifold
- Put a towel or masking tape over the intake ports as soon as the lower manifold is removed to prevent debris from entering leave it there until the manifold is back on, there will be some valves open enough for debris to get into the combustion chamber
- I unclipped the injectors from the fuel rail and pulled it up using slow even pressure, leaving the injectors in to prevent tearing the more delicate lower o-rings then taking the upper o rings out of the rail and setting them aside. I lubed them with vaseline on the install and set the fuel rail on top of them then used even pressure to seat them they're in correctly when the fuel rail lines up with the bolt holes and sits flush with the manifold Be very very careful with the coil pack connectors as these wires are very small gauge and brittle from heat, this is where having a helper pull and hold the connectors back just enough to release so the cover will clear while you remove the cover is best

- The biggest pain is getting things clear to get the actual covers off. I lubed the black connectors with silicone spray so they would slide off, there is an audible "click" when they are removed and installed . The front cover is relatively easy, I used an inspection mirror to look at the bolts in the rear cover I too had a'welded" ground" cable I used an old thin 10mm wrench on the lower nut and a ratchet to unlock the top - Removing the cover over the rear cover coil connectors was a pain as well, the fuel line can be disconnected but I was able to pull the hoses out of the clips I broke a few and gently push the two metal fuel pipes back far enough. A second person to hold the harness and fuel pipes while you lift and move the cover off/on is best.

- The valve cover bolts have a rubber grommet and top brass washer - these are separate- remove the washer before removing the cover as they can can come loose if so have a long magnetic retrieval tool handy Same with the install remove the washers and slide them on the cover bolts after you install the gasket. The gasket is designed to cover a small portion of the head surface I installed the gasket into the covers on the bench using some light vaseline to hold it in the OEM fit was good so this might not have been necessary On the rear bank make sure to go around the back side with the inspection mirror to ensure the gasket didn't reposition when it is installed. You don't want to have a leak after all this work!
- I used a normal criss-cross torquing pattern to ensure even application of the gasket after I snugged the bolts all around.
- I use styrofoam soup bowls to hold parts they're easy to label with the part and # of nuts bolts as you remove things


peter
 

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Peter, you are my hero - how many miles/how old was your ride you did the job?


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Peter, you are my hero - how many miles/how old was your ride you did the job?


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I don't actually recall the miles, I think about 88-90k on a 2008- they weren't leaking but since It it's a maint item I just did the job as a preventative step and to dig into the engine a bit on a slow weekend to learn more about it and check the wear. ( if maintained these are pretty bullet proof if you have the lugs out one thing you might also do is a compression check to see where your are vis a vis factory and gauge engine wear) and as my wife was driving it a lot out of state on kayak trips
 

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Roger, we're at 125k so I'm sure it's all super crispy.


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Discussion Starter #12
Much appreciate the detailed follow up Peter! I will take a look at the PCV situation first. i bought the car with 72k last fall, i did not notice any oil leaks then. I've done two oil changes with Castrol 0w40 full synthetic. I'm thinking the previous owner did not use full synthetic maybe just maybe the new oil has something to do with it.
 

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I have heard on older vehicles that switching from conventional to synthetic oil can cause leaks but I have nothing to validate that statement. Had seen it posted before.

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Incidentally, I just finished replacing my valve cover gaskets along with a power steering pump. I followed Peter's advice on about everything and the job went very well. I ran into a few issues like the broken ground wires on rear cover but that was easy enough to fix like Peter alluded to. I sent my injectors to a local shop for cleaning and the ultrasonic machine ruined my pintle caps,,,, as in dissolved them. I had a heck of a time finding new ones. V8 has hard to find caps but was able to source a kit thru Mr. Injector. No leaks and runs great. Pretty much what Peter said is all spot on. I have some pictures I took as I went along if I could get time to put together a walk thru. Will try to work on that.
Robert

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Incidentally, I just finished replacing my valve cover gaskets along with a power steering pump. I followed Peter's advice on about everything and the job went very well. I ran into a few issues like the broken ground wires on rear cover but that was easy enough to fix like Peter alluded to. I sent my injectors to a local shop for cleaning and the ultrasonic machine ruined my pintle caps,,,, as in dissolved them. I had a heck of a time finding new ones. V8 has hard to find caps but was able to source a kit thru Mr. Injector. No leaks and runs great. Pretty much what Peter said is all spot on. I have some pictures I took as I went along if I could get time to put together a walk thru. Will try to work on that.
Robert

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Please do. I finally have to do mine. Oil is leaking onto the front manifold and the smell is bothering the wife. Just enough to be annoying.

Do you have to drain the coolant? I have done some where you can swing the intake to the side without having to drain fuel or coolant. Photos would be so helpful.
 

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You will have to drain the coolant. I just pulled the lower radiator hose and let it drain enough to get below the throttle body/manifold connections. I replaced it with a 50/50 of Zerex G05 coolant and distilled water. I took a super long amount of time due to parts ordering and semi destroying my fuel injectors. The pintle caps anyway. I sent mine out to be cleaned. If it were me, since the injectors will get pulled from either the fuel rail or the lower manifold or both, I would get the replacement o ring kits for each injector. I am working all night tonight but will try to get a walk thru going tomorrow if I can. I have the Vida disc and dice so if you need part numbers I might be able to get that on there too.
Mine suddenly got to the point that I could see a haze of smoke at night. Mine was a combo of valve covers, sensor seals on covers and a failing power steering pump all sending oil down the valley and dripping out the weep hole where a rear main seal leak would show.

Talk to you soon

Robert

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I'm going to have the indie shop deal with it. There are too many things that need to be done to this car, so the Volvo guru is gonna take care of it.

Valve cover gaskets
Fuel pressure sensor
possible PS pump while she's open
front suspension...ball joints, struts, etc..
Differential and haldex service
Sporadic CEL with an evap code

It's just money, right?
 

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Huh? Replacing the power steering pump? Valve cover gaskets? Are Fuel pressure sensor? All are of these things maintenance items? Or are you having issues with the cars?
 

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Huh? Replacing the power steering pump? Valve cover gaskets? Are Fuel pressure sensor? All are of these things maintenance items? Or are you having issues with the cars?
The power steering pump has been making noise for a long time. The fuel pressure sensor is a known issue + $30 part so I don't see why not while the intake is off. The valve cover gaskets are leaking oil onto the front manifold so they have to be replaced. The car has 150,000 miles on it so might as well take care of a few things while she's open.
 
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