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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all. This isn't really a DIY but there are some helpful bits as I documented my suspension upgrades. Usually I have no problem finding info but there really wasn't much info on changing the struts and springs on any Volvo S80. Mine is a 2008, with 4C and I have 140k on the clock. All replaced components were original and needed replacement, (even the rears). So hopefully this is helpful to some people out there.

I have had a similar set up in my acura legend so If koni was available I was going to go that route. Sure enough the guys at Open Road Tuning (openroadtuning.com) found the set that would work with my car and suggested a spring that would be a great as well. I know there are several different combinations here but they really made the choices easy. The parts were not on their site or in inventory (unlike mostly every things else they have). So I shot over an email and had immediate help and the struts and springs showed up with in a couple days. Honestly the easiest transaction I have had with any parts company.

Ok so the Car and the new parts




Here is how bad my strut was.


And My biggest issue. Honestly not the best design which makes replacing these a real pain. Bottom of the strut sits in the hub with a pinch bolt in the back, Yes there is enough vertical movement to remove the strut from this housing BUT don't forget to remove the end link and caliper before prying. The biggest disaster I had was my half shaft had never released from the hub despite, loosening of the axle nut. Before you start prying the strut out you need to free the axle from the hub, you shouldn't need to remove it completely just make sure it is moving freely.

If not you will end up pulling your inner cv joint out possibly ripping your boot and ending up with axle grease all over you shops floor. In this picture you can see my dis formed boot.


I repacked the cv joint with new grease and cleaned everything up. The axle required a bit of persuasion to fit back it, like it was a tapered fit.

Back to the suspension after a 4 hours delay. Please excuse my abs sensor wire mount as that was re mounted correctly after this photo was taken. please refer to the above photo for proper placement.



Rears. incredibly easy compared to the front, took me about 45 minutes a corner. unlike other volvos there is no need to access the strut from above or in the trunk / rear seat area. Everything is under the car. I did struts first by undoing the bottom bolt first then the 2 10mm at the top fell right out and all was left to do was swap the mounting bushing over and dust cap.




the spring was also a single bolt but required a jack to ease the springs tension. Once eased the lower arm was flexible and the spring also fell out.



All together



The final outcome is a 30mm drop, an adjustable ride thanks to koni yellows, and a small message about the 4c suspension. All 4c wire harness were wrapped in electrical tape to protect them. I plan on looking at my old 4c struts and pulling hardware in order to eliminate this message.

Before


After



waiting for the car to settle more.
 

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How did you get the old strut out? I made the mistake of loosening the top nut on the strut and not putting it back on before I loosened the three nuts for the strut mount. I didn't want to fight with an old nut with the strut off the car.

After you got the axle disconnected, was there much clearance? After my error, I ordered new control arms and lowered everything in order to get the uncompressed spring off the car.

I was tempted to go with Koni sports, but cheeped out and went with the Bilstein B4s. I did just the front at 81k. my spring perch was covered with strut oil. I didn't have any where yours is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How does it ride now? Can you tell a big difference?
The ride is night and day. I'm currently 3/4 turn from full stiff. I can easily soften the car up but right now its perfect for the spirited driving style I have. My struts on all corners had next to zero rebound so i always had that floaty feel. The steering is now so much more direct as opposed to numb. no close to my S2000 but a substantial move in the right direction.

How did you get the old strut out? I made the mistake of loosening the top nut on the strut and not putting it back on before I loosened the three nuts for the strut mount. I didn't want to fight with an old nut with the strut off the car.

After you got the axle disconnected, was there much clearance? After my error, I ordered new control arms and lowered everything in order to get the uncompressed spring off the car.

I was tempted to go with Koni sports, but cheeped out and went with the Bilstein B4s. I did just the front at 81k. my spring perch was covered with strut oil. I didn't have any where yours is.
After reading your thread and from previous builds the top 3 mounting bolts and center bolt on the strut are the LAST bolts you are to remove. If you leave them in and allow the drive shaft to float freely in the hub you actually have an incredible amount of vertical motion ( dont forget your tie rods). The suggestion that was given to me was to get the car up a bit higher on the lift or jack stands and use a relatively long pry bar. Mine was bout 5ft in length and I pretty much set on it. the strut popped free of the hub and hung from the top of the wheel well. now you can remove the 3 mounting bolts and take the spring and strut out as a unit. On a bench you can use a spring compressor to contain the spring before removing the final strut bold. As I am sure you found out how much pressure that spring is under.
 

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The ride is night and day. I'm currently 3/4 turn from full stiff. I can easily soften the car up but right now its perfect for the spirited driving style I have. My struts on all corners had next to zero rebound so i always had that floaty feel. The steering is now so much more direct as opposed to numb. no close to my S2000 but a substantial move in the right direction.

After reading your thread and from previous builds the top 3 mounting bolts and center bolt on the strut are the LAST bolts you are to remove. If you leave them in and allow the drive shaft to float freely in the hub you actually have an incredible amount of vertical motion ( dont forget your tie rods). The suggestion that was given to me was to get the car up a bit higher on the lift or jack stands and use a relatively long pry bar. Mine was bout 5ft in length and I pretty much set on it. the strut popped free of the hub and hung from the top of the wheel well. now you can remove the 3 mounting bolts and take the spring and strut out as a unit. On a bench you can use a spring compressor to contain the spring before removing the final strut bold. As I am sure you found out how much pressure that spring is under.
I was going to take the three nuts off last. I would have had a problem either way because I don't think the car was up as high as yours was. I was afraid to take the axles out. Turned out they are not as complicated as I feared. Next time. I have a set of 81k mile control arms for the next time. The Lemforders for $115 each (with the ball joint) look like they are the OES. I may be wrong, but I didn't find any Hutchinson control arms on the web.

You mentioned the warning. I wouldn't bother trying to get rid of it. I don't think it will ever happen, but if all of the nannies have to come in I want the system to know the 4Cs are not going to help.

I am now trying to figure out if keeping the 4C system in sport still affects she shift points.

Here's to this thread and my thread helping someone in the future. :beer: :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tommm the axels are honestly super easy and as long as they are broken free of the hub it ill me a world of a difference. as for height I was on 4 jack stands maybe a foot or so off the ground.

Thanks for the beer! I hope this helps some others as well.

Bhom920 saw the pm responding now
 

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Tommm the axels are honestly super easy and as long as they are broken free of the hub it ill me a world of a difference. as for height I was on 4 jack stands maybe a foot or so off the ground.

Thanks for the beer! I hope this helps some others as well.

Bhom920 saw the pm responding now
When I hired the pro to get me out of the mess the pulled the axle lickity split. I realized my biggest fear was fear.
 

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I ordered a cheap factory replacement to compare with my xc60 strut and they seem to be identical. At least the fronts. Are the rear koni's adjustable as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
wow totally forgot to get those measurements for you. hang on. The Rears are adjustable as well just in a different way you need to fully compress them and then rotate. you should be able to feel the inner working engage
 

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wow totally forgot to get those measurements for you. hang on. The Rears are adjustable as well just in a different way you need to fully compress them and then rotate. you should be able to feel the inner working engage
that's a interesting design. so i guess it must be removed every time to make an adjustment.
 

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that's a interesting design. so i guess it must be removed every time to make an adjustment.
Yes. It was a PITA on my 944S2. We have them on the 944S we track. The P.O. set the car up beautifully for autox. We track it more than the one autox a year. Haven't touched the settings in three seasons. Too many other things to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I set the rears from past experience and to match the fronts although I can change them. I probably wont unless i take the beast to auto x again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not really to bump for those searching and needing photos i just noticed they disapeared if this happens just shot me a pm and Ill repost them
 

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Thanks for this thread, it helps a lot! How is your rear tire wear? Someone on here said there is no canned adjustment for the rear, but the stock 4C sits way too high. I don’t think mine are leaking but I want to lower it soon and get rid of the 4C
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
honestly I'm 10k on them and everything still feels tight as a drum. Totally transformed the car. maybe a bit jiggly on bad road since I have it set fairly stiff. As for tire wear I haven't noticed much uneven wear although i have some slow leaks. Ill get the car up tonight and double check maybe take some photo.
 

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Were you able to eliminate the 4C message in the dash? I want to do this on mine, but want to get my transmission sorted out first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I still have a message that pops up after about a minute of driving but its no error. i dont mind clearing since i have like 8 other messages usually low washer fluid, no air in the tires, or im out of gas.
 

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Were you able to eliminate the 4C message in the dash? I want to do this on mine, but want to get my transmission sorted out first.
When I deleted the front 4Cs I posted a thread on the diode trick the R guys were doing. I decided not to since I couldn't confirm how/if I would be tricking the computer into thinking the shocks were helping during an accident avoidance maneuver. I think someone found something that said the car goes into a default mode when the circuit is open, so I left it in the open mode.

The dealer updated my software in April Since then the notice comes on as soon as I start the car. It is instinctive now that I push the button to clear the message. Worrying about the message is much ado about nothing.
 
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