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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I'm debating whether or not to change my oil. I've done just over 10000 km (about 6300 mi) since my service. I can't say I drive like a lunatic or anything but I do occasionally accelerate moderately hard to kickdowns. My next service isn't due until june 2016 and I figure I will have put 20000 km on it by then, or 12k mi.

What I'm curious about is if there's anything good to know regarding the change. Someone said something about an oil pressure sensor that would need to be disconnected. Some other people were talking about how you needed a special filter tool for the P3 cars since they generally are inaccessibly placed and I'd imagine the V8 is no exception.

I was going to use the jam-a-screwdriver-through-the-filter-approach but someone said it's not a good idea for some reason and if it's all too inaccessibly placed maybe it'll be hard to get it back in place? And lastly I heard someone saying the filter shouldn't be filled before being fitted but maybe that's pertaining to diesels only?


Feels like massive noob questions but knowing myself I'll probably feel lost enough once I get under there.
 

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I've been brought up old school, where the oil was changed every 3k miles. I understand that new cars don't need their oil changed so often, but I won't go more that 5K miles. I don't care if it costs me a little more, One of the most important things one can do to a car is change the oil, it's the life of a car. I'm not familiar with the V8, but my 2012 V60 T5 the oil filter is inside a "plastic" enclosure. So be very careful not to jam a screwdriver into it, you may have the same system. It is a good idea to fill the filter with oil when you can, on the T5 you can't because the filter enclosure is upside down.
 

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I wouldn't recommend going more than 7,500 miles on any oil change, semi synthetic or full synthetic. I definitely see more issues due to extended oil services than I do if the customer cuts the recommended service interval in half. I go 5K miles with full synthetic. That's it. I've been a tech for 24 years and based on what I have experienced, customers who change their oil more frequently have less issues from PCV, Oil leaks, dirty throttle plates, CVVT and solenoids. Its just cheap to do.

On the V8, it uses the same plastic filter housing as all P2's so the tool to remove it is the same. There is a wiring harness on the V8 that needs to be moved out of the way. It is the oil level sensor wiring. Other than that it is very easy to change the oil.

Here's a pic of a V8 I have on my lift right now
 

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The Volvo 4.4 V8 oil filter is in a plastic housing. You will need a cup shaped filter removal tool. The filter is a cartridge type that fits in the plastic reused housing. Don't forget to change the o-ring at the housing threads. The same size removal cup fits the 5 cylinder gas engine in our 2004 XC70. Easy to access oil filter on V8 engine.

I change the oil at ~ 5000 miles with synthetic 5W-30 Mobile 1 or Pennzoil Platinum.
 

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On my S80 V8, service interval is 30.000km ( 鈮18.000 miles). :confused:
But I will do it every 15.000km ( 鈮9.000 miles)

 

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Mine has always said 12,000km's, 12 months, or 1100 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
So the filter just sits in the housing? The filter itself isn't screwed in place like it has been on most Volvos previously? And I guess it's still is a good idea to fill it before fitting since it's located underneath. I can't see a drain plug though...

12 months or 30000 km sounds familiar for most modern petrol Volvos, yes. I feel more confident that it's worth doing now though since 20k km/12500 mi on one oil does seem a bit much. Never heard of it specified as 1100 h though. Engine runtime? Also, ieatglue, what engine do you have? The only ones with such short oil intervals are the flexifuel cars that have 10k km/6200 mi intervals.

MarkoD: where's that list from? Is it possible to look up cars and see what they were equipped with from the factory?
 

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The recommended oil change interval according to Volvo Canada is once every year or 12,000 km, whichever comes first. If warranty is not a concern, and you're doing a lot of summer highway driving, you could probably double the 12,000 km on a good synthetic oil. For shorter trips or colder climates however the oil will get pretty dirty so I wouldn't push it.
 

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Oil is cheap, even a good synthetic like M1 from Walmart in 5QT jugs is only ~$28. Your engine will thank you and you will sleep better at night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I paid $135 for 4x2 liters (2.1 gallons I think) of oil, filter and a new plug gasket/seal thing and another $25 for an oil filter tool as well as rent for a lift (rather than doing it on the ground). So a total of $160.

Trickiest thing was putting the filter back in place. I don't see why they could've just kept going with the old style metallic housing things that just bolt straight on. No need for external rubber seals or special tools to remove it (jam-a-screwdriver-technique would've worked, that is).
 

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I paid $135 for 4x2 liters (2.1 gallons I think) of oil, filter and a new plug gasket/seal thing and another $25 for an oil filter tool as well as rent for a lift (rather than doing it on the ground). So a total of $160.

Trickiest thing was putting the filter back in place. I don't see why they could've just kept going with the old style metallic housing things that just bolt straight on. No need for external rubber seals or special tools to remove it (jam-a-screwdriver-technique would've worked, that is).
That's some very expensive oil $16.78 per liter, YIKES! We do a Full Synthetic Oil change with Liquimoly, OEM filter and labor for $92.50 at my shop.
Reason they don't use the the spin on filter anymore is European mandate for waste reduction. Less waste, no metal, less cost, easier to recycle. It's a win for everyone. You only have to buy the tool once and Volvo has been using the replaceable cartridge since 1999, where have you been? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Actually the oil itself, the eight liters, was a tad over 1700 SEK which translates to about $207. I bought it at my dealer specifically since they usually give me good discounts from being a loyal customer... and because I order a lot of parts. I've read too many of snowins' guides :( The 135 bucks included the filter and stuff. Maybe oil is taxed harder over here as well? I used to pay about 14 SEK/liter for petrol but lately the price has been sitting around 12.50 SEK. Translates to roughly $6,50 USD/gallon and $5,60 respectively.

And yeah I do realize and appreciate the fact that such steps are taken. I was just a bit upset. I had some trouble getting the filter to fit (I feel a bit embarrassed to admit I almost screwed up something as simple as an oil change but the first time I tried screwing it in place it caught the treads at an angle. I probably wouldn't have noticed hadn't it been that it took many more turns to take it out than it did to replace. That would've been a good story, blowing a V8 on an attempted oil change, right? Nope. I would personally have shredded my license and put the excess money towards a bike and save the whole, massive amount of money I'd save on petrol.)

This is more or less of my first car by the way. I used to drive an 1980 244 and in the summers I drive a 1965 Volvo Amazon; both of which use the old school metal cased filter. In fact this is the first time I've done an oil change on anything newer than the 1965 amazon. New cars' engine compartments are very, er, well they're quite different.
 

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That still seems just very expensive for oil but if that is the price in Sweden then that is what it is. Last gas I purchased was $2.53 per gallon for 93 Octane. Was as low as $2.23 earlier this year, and I did get a nice long road trip in the VR to Disney World in Orlando.

Here's a little tip on the spin on filters. When changing them, tighten by hand and make them snug or just tight enough. No need to make them super tight, just tight. They will still seal properly. Then when its time to change, you can usually remove by hand and not have to hammer a screwdriver through it and make a mess. If you are using OE Volvo filters, they are much thicker metal than others and have to be harder the jam the screwdriver through.
 
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