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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Had thought to put up a V8 XC90 centric thread, bunch of stuff in the stickies to refer to but no single informational thread that I can recall that's focused on this engine in the XC90 (and the S80).

113611

Volvo B8444S

I'll start with a press release- https://www.media.volvocars.com/us/en-us/media/pressreleases/2302 and a brochure- https://volvornt.harte-hanks.com/manuals/2005/XC90-V8-Final-brochure.pdf from 2004 when the engine was first introduced.

Plus this thread- Ford and its influence on Volvo , as it's hard to imagine that Volvo would have done this on their own.

I'll add as time permits and as I come across things but it's open for anyone to add from technical to jobs to whatever, so long as the focus remains on the V8. We all know about the 600hp version of this engine Volvo reveals V8 Supercars engine - Racecar Engineering so no need to divert there.

If you have a link relating to work you've done on your V8, please post as well. I'll start putting mine in and, as I have a few jobs coming up, I'll get them posted with photos.

edit 120620- add photo
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Wanted to post on this thread since it’s directly V8 related and the OP has been pretty lame about upkeep.

Right in the middle of a PS pump, water pump, thermostat, and cooling hose replacement on my V8.
Photo link here- B8444S_PSP/WP/Hoses-071519 , not sure if I'll do a write-up on this or not. If you've done VCG, all this work is easy enough to do, just a matter of going through the layers to get to parts and draining the coolant completely.

PS pump was seeping since last winter and, as I was in the area I added a few more things so I don't have to go back anytime soon. I've been doing a rolling mechanical refresh on this vehicle since I bought it in 2015, this year was already planned for hoses (I've been buying parts a few at a time and adding to other shipments), then the PS pump issue came up. Some photos will show a reasonable amount of seeping fluid, although I think it's been pretty slow to accumulate and never got to the point where it was dripping on the floor. Still, you can see it in the valley between the banks and on the front of the block. I'll try to get some rags in the valley with a little carb cleaner on them, enough to clean but not so much to drip. The rest I'll clean more thoroughly.

Replacement fluid for PS will be CHF202, got a couple cans so will do a flush of sorts to get the pump filled completely before starting. Coolant will be OE and distilled water, I have a vacuum filler so will use that to ensure I get a good fill on the system before starting everything back up on a fresh pump.

Of special interest should be the marked tensioner holder in one of the photos at the end, that piece comes with a new tensioner and makes subsequent work easy to do.
I used a regular 19mm 6-point 3/4 socket off the serp tool extension (Powerbuilt Kit #52) to make just enough space to get the holder on and went nice and slow. With the holder, you take the tensioner to only a slightly compressed position (maybe 8mm?), it's just a matter of a little movement to get it off and on. I have 20k on the current tensioner, will replace the belt and leave everything else alone after a I give the front a decent clean.

*7/17- Pumps and t-stat and hoses and belt done, just need to button things up and work fluids through. Battery was disconnected before I started, makes it easy to pull random connectors in order to make more room. Photos as updated. New upper manifold gasket and mount screws. The OE screws were made in Germany no less.

*7/19- All done, no issues to report. Engine label got erased when I used some solvent to clean the front of the motor, I'll ask around see if Volvo can make a new one (temp sticker w PN/SN placed on motor just to make me feel better). I had a close look at the water pump, after 125k it's still fine. Overkill to have replaced it and the t-stat but is easier for me to do everything at once and plan a revisit in another 100k. It´s tight in there.

VCG photos are here- XC90 V8 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement for another V8 reference. PS pump area looked a lot cleaner then, so it makes me feel a little better that the source is the pump and not the top of the front timing cover.

**Bonus- anyone considering a starter replacement (someone on MVS had asked about it the other day), these photos are pretty much how deep you have to go to get to it if you go from the top. I think it may be possible to get the rear bank housing off to get to the starter without removing the upper manifold but I personally never would have tried, I like my back too much.
 

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I replaced the starter by draining the coolant at radiator only, then removing the coolant housing (30720321) + bit of stubby coolant tube (30720322) (don't forget to get a new gasket (30720318))
and rotated away a bracket directly above the starter... the starter will then need to be rotated out take you time it's doable but yes, back breaking. I had stalls and music and headlamp which saw me through..
 

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I replaced the starter by draining the coolant at radiator only, then removing the coolant housing (30720321) + bit of stubby coolant tube (30720322) (don't forget to get a new gasket (30720318))
and rotated away a bracket directly above the starter... the starter will then need to be rotated out take you time it's doable but yes, back breaking. I had stalls and music and headlamp which saw me through..
Ditto. I did this one. Instead of new starter, I had mine taken to a nearby starter rebuilding shop to replace all the internals with new parts. Its the bearing that takes a dump and leads to slow starting ("seems" like a failing battery due to how slow the engine turns over, but its the bearing deteriorating far enough that the armature is rubbing against the magnets on the case). Mine lasted almost 200K miles, so must say the durability of the starter is pretty remarkable relative to other cars I've owned.

Disconect the battery, drain the coolant, remove the torque mount mount and the coolant manifold. That plus the various wire harness supports to slice and move out of the way. Not a bad job. At least you're not underneath fighting for space to fit your arms.

** Yoda tip: While you have the harness half disassembled by the starter, its a good time to check the cam sensor power & ground splices that sit in the harness about 6-12 inches from the ECU toward the engine. These power and ground splices connect power and ground to the 4 cam sensors. They are buried inside black mastic (the "goo") which can be peeled back to see how well they are spliced. In my 2007, the engine motion fatigued the incoming wire to the splice, the black goo held the wire in place but with just the right engine motion (ie taking off from a start), the motion was enough to break the connection briefly, kill the engine, trigger random codes for all 4 cam sensors, and the engine would start up just fine again. EXTREMELY difficult to diagnose. An ounce of prevention, worth the engine's weight in gold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Think I ought to revive the old V8 thread but instead of posting just information, maybe it would be more beneficial to post jobs and tips and tidbits specific to the V8s.

In my own case in the coming weeks I'll be replacing 2 alternators (1 broke, 1 proactive) and doing a full "cleanup" on a mid mileage V8 (serp, valve covers, and power steering pump). As I do I'll try and get some additional visuals although these days there are plenty around on this site.

I'm more interested though in hearing what others are doing on their V8s.

You can feel free to post on the voluminous "What did you do with your Volvo today" thread but if it relates to the V8 powertrain and you think others might benefit from reading more than once (63 pages as of 11/15/20), then please post here as well.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Power Steering Pump Rebuild and Top Mount Refurbish Challenge

Like the title says, if you own a V8 sooner or later you’re replacing a seeping power steering pump or a hard and shrunk top engine mount.

Given the near absolute nature of these two components failing, I feel like it’s first in our collective best interest to find someone besides Volvo to rebuild the Denso pump. These pumps are $500+ at last purchase (plus $100 for core), there’s got to be a better way.

Second, the rubber insert in the V8 top mount gets hard as a rock over time and shrinks, causing the engine to rock and eventually putting excessive stress on the other mounts. The issue is just with the insert, the frame is fine (but of course you cannot just purchase an insert and the mount is $100). I’m more interested in someone manufacturing an insert of some kind but a best practice material fill that’ll withstand the heat and remain flexible over time would also work.

I suspect either of these would be a decent small sideline business and I would hope that someone is in a position of interest and/or time to have a look.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll be speaking with them, thanks VERY much for pointing this out.
 

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I'll be speaking with them, thanks VERY much for pointing this out.
When you talk to them, see if they have a step by step they can share. I am curious if there are any special tools. If not, 200 bucks for a reseal kit seems more reasonable than the $500 dollar pump. That being said, I did find a number of 100-200 dollar pumps, but I would assume they are all rebuilds and I would feel more confident doing my own.
 

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When that upper torque mount is tight it just makes all the difference in the world. I have put 30 miles on it since shimming. It’s soooo nice. Fast shifts, no weird vibrations, quiet sailing in the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Getting started on the VOR V8, one thing that is obvious with the age and mileage is the PCV system is leaking, same as the Sport when I first got it. Oil fill cap and dipstick o-rings are flat on the sides and hard as a rock. One thing I've found is that when the PCV system is solid and tight, removing the dipstick provides an audible change to the idle, putting it back reverts. If you can pull the dipstick on your V8 and hear no change, it might be a good time to consider replacing these items as time permits. Fill cap o-ring PN is 925063, I cannot find the dipstick o-rings separately so bought a new one outright, PN 30720238.
 
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When I did the pulleys over the weekend, I did notice my PS pump has signs of leaking.

I'm going through my next stage 0 purchase and that $500 + $100 core charge for the PS pump is indeed a hard pill to swallow. Though if purchased through FCP you will only have to pay shipping on the next replacement. I normally wouldn't go this route but at $69, I may get this PS pump. Do I dare? Also what fluid is recommended as a replacement? I have some CHF 11S on the shelf for my VR so I may just order another container. Anyone ever add a Magnefine or similar filter for the PS?

I have the seal replacement placement kit, pcv valve, and drive train fluids (minus the transmission) in my cart

For the transmission fluid, I intend to source either Mobil 3309 or Toyota T-IV from Amazon at ~$70 shipped for 12 quarts. I will probably add a Magnefine filter here as well.

Is anything else recommended while the intake is off for the gasket job?
 

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Check the Toyota dealer, I have found it is cheaper and you don’t have to wait for fluids. I’ve never heard of Magnifine Filter, I think I would like to try that also.


2010 xc90 3.2 | 2008 xc 70 3.2
 

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2008 Volvo XC90 V8 AWD - Climate Pkg, Versatility Pkg, and Convenience Pkg
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When I did the pulleys over the weekend, I did notice my PS pump has signs of leaking.

I'm going through my next stage 0 purchase and that $500 + $100 core charge for the PS pump is indeed a hard pill to swallow. Though if purchased through FCP you will only have to pay shipping on the next replacement. I normally wouldn't go this route but at $69, I may get this PS pump. Do I dare? Also what fluid is recommended as a replacement? I have some CHF 11S on the shelf for my VR so I may just order another container. Anyone ever add a Magnefine or similar filter for the PS?

I have the seal replacement placement kit, pcv valve, and drive train fluids (minus the transmission) in my cart

For the transmission fluid, I intend to source either Mobil 3309 or Toyota T-IV from Amazon at ~$70 shipped for 12 quarts. I will probably add a Magnefine filter here as well.

Is anything else recommended while the intake is off for the gasket job?
Also looking to add a Magnefine filter. Would you mind posting a new thread once you do it explaining what you bought and how to install it? Will be doing it with a transmission fluid flush, just like you.
 

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I've been running a Magnefine transmission filter on my VR for about four years now when I did its first transmission fluid swap. I installed one on my XC70 also which is no longer in the stable. They were the old style plastic ones. The new ones look like they are constructed like a fuel filter as they are now made of metal. There are a bunch of youtube vids of them being cracked open after being changed and they do look like they work well.

Installation is quite simple. You just remove a section of line and insert the filter in its place, making sure that the fluid flow is the correct direction through the filter. Finding a good place to splice will depend on where there is room for the filter.

I'm pretty sure this one (older style plastic Magnefine) from Autozone is manufactured by the same place just branded different.

I have a couple of 3/8" filters on hand. Hopefully the XC90 lines are the same size.

 

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Thought to post on this thread since it’s directly V8 related and the OP has been pretty lame about upkeep.

Right in the middle of a PS pump, water pump, thermostat, and cooling hose replacement on my V8.
Photo link here- B8444S_PSP/WP/Hoses-071519 , not sure if I'll do a write-up on this or not. If you've done VCG, all this work is easy enough to do, just a matter of going through the layers to get to parts and draining the coolant completely.

PS pump was seeping since last winter and, as I was in the area I added a few more things so I don't have to go back anytime soon. I've been doing a rolling mechanical refresh on this vehicle since I bought it in 2015, this year was already planned for hoses (I've been buying parts a few at a time and adding to other shipments), then the PS pump issue came up. Some photos will show a reasonable amount of seeping fluid, although I think it's been pretty slow to accumulate and never got to the point where it was dripping on the floor. Still, you can see it in the valley between the banks and on the front of the block. I'll try to get some rags in the valley with a little carb cleaner on them, enough to clean but not so much to drip. The rest I'll clean more thoroughly.

Replacement fluid for PS will be CHF202, got a couple cans so will do a flush of sorts to get the pump filled completely before starting. Coolant will be OE and distilled water, I have a vacuum filler so will use that to ensure I get a good fill on the system before starting everything back up on a fresh pump.

Of special interest should be the marked tensioner holder in one of the photos at the end, that piece comes with a new tensioner and makes subsequent work easy to do.
I used a regular 19mm 6-point 3/4 socket off the serp tool extension (Powerbuilt Kit #52) to make just enough space to get the holder on and went nice and slow. With the holder, you take the tensioner to only a slightly compressed position (maybe 8mm?), it's just a matter of a little movement to get it off and on. I have 20k on the current tensioner, will replace the belt and leave everything else alone after a I give the front a decent clean.

*7/17- Pumps and t-stat and hoses and belt done, just need to button things up and work fluids through. Battery was disconnected before I started, makes it easy to pull random connectors in order to make more room. Photos as updated. New upper manifold gasket and mount screws. The OE screws were made in Germany no less.

*7/19- All done, no issues to report. Engine label got erased when I used some solvent to clean the front of the motor, I'll ask around see if Volvo can make a new one (temp sticker w PN/SN placed on motor just to make me feel better). I had a close look at the water pump, after 125k it's still fine. Overkill to have replaced it and the t-stat but is easier for me to do everything at once and plan a revisit in another 100k. It´s tight in there.

VCG photos are here- XC90 V8 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement for another V8 reference. PS pump area looked a lot cleaner then, so it makes me feel a little better that the source is the pump and not the top of the front timing cover.

**Bonus- anyone considering a starter replacement (someone on MVS had asked about it the other day), these photos are pretty much how deep you have to go to get to it if you go from the top. I think it may be possible to get the rear bank housing off to get to the starter without removing the upper manifold but I personally never would have tried, I like my back too much.
What are these two things called in the front, on top of the valve covers with the yellow electrical connectors?

EDIT: Never mind, these are the VVT solenoid valves.

There seems to be a lot of oil leakage around them. Is that common? Does the VC kit come with the the seals for these?

 
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